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Oh god. You know that's not a completely bad idea. Hmmm. May solve the real estate issue inside the cup. Hmmm.
River. Picture two drill bits side by side. Weave in and out as a figure 8. Same ohm but also less wire since this one would be single.
Well damn it. How about taking a one legged figure 8 then. Get one twist in. Then ground it on the metal channel instead of yet another twist.
Thanks guys. I needed this today?
Hmmm. Yankee I'm not sure what supa crazy guy meant by figure 8 but my idea is different. I meant keep the duals as X and wrap the cotton around them and in between them without actually having cotton inside the coils. I hope you get the picture.
You got it , haven't tried it myself but I don't see why it wouldn't work . Post some pics if you get it up and running .
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Figure 8 failed. I didn't have two good even tools to use and work with my fingers.
Here is 1/2 of a dual coil using 28g. 19/20 wrap. Yeah. I can probably vice the GG button and make a coffee by the time these coil heat up. There's just not enough room. Not with my fingers anyway. Maybe 30g fits better here.
Here is 1/2 of a dual coil using 28g. 19/20 wrap. Yeah. I can probably vice the GG button and make a coffee by the time these coil heat up. There's just not enough room. Not with my fingers anyway. Maybe 30g fits better here.
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I made a micro coil for the Ody with great success, no issues with dry hits and great flavor. Metered out at 1.5 Ohms and running it on a Kick2 at aboy 11-12 watts. I used 100% pure organic cotton wool, 30G resistance wire twisted in a small nail which after removed was torched and compressed using needle nose pliers several times.
It produces absolute tones of vapor, i would say 50% more than a regular coil.
It produces absolute tones of vapor, i would say 50% more than a regular coil.
Will let you know but the good thing is you can remove the cotton, give the coil a dry burn and put a new cotton in
I'm thinking I rolled my cotton too tight since I had wicking issues. I packed it in the channels too...that's got to be it.
for me, the cotton/coil lasts about 2-3 days on my drippers before I need to dryburn coil and rethread a new cotton.
Steve, I see you have welded your joins. How did you wrap and prep your coil without the joins breaking? My welds don't hold up to the stress needed to make these coils...tight wraps, and compressing together.
for me, the cotton/coil lasts about 2-3 days on my drippers before I need to dryburn coil and rethread a new cotton.
Steve, I see you have welded your joins. How did you wrap and prep your coil without the joins breaking? My welds don't hold up to the stress needed to make these coils...tight wraps, and compressing together.
I have not tried micros yet but as I see it you can make the coil first then weld them together. I'll be trying these when I get a chance. In the middle of a computer build right now. It's taking more of my time then I thought it would.
The coil itself lasts forever lol. All you need is thread another cotton in.
Weird with cotton you should not have a dry hit.remember the cotton has to be light which mean it goes into the coil without resistance. How do I explain this. The quantity of cotton is not big although it is a wide piece.
Mike I wrap the coil around a small nail when I'm happy with it I trim the ends just enough to make the connection (about 2mm).I then torch it and when I'm happy it's ready and compressed. I then re-insert the nail in the coil and place them in the zapper's alligator clip and the non resistant wire in the other clip. When I do one side I do the other without removing the coil and nail from the alligator clip. Once both ends are done I remove the coil and take out the nail. Job done buddy.
By keeping the coil in the nail when I zap it I don't have an issue of bending my coil
Mike when I insert the cotton I too twist it but when it's in I un-twist it so it fits better. It's real easy to manipulate the cotton
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