Mods by Chels - mini-ecig

[Arnold Ziffle]

I order a micro big and a mini drip a few
days ago. really looking forward to them.
and now the calendar slows.

 

[calinbotez]

The filling needle is 16g., slightly bigger then a 1/16 bit.View attachment 409030
As for the wicking, I guess I just chose to leave longer tails, kneading the ends and poking those through the base with my fingers. Then of course cutting them off as short as I could, then pulling them back up just slightly. Once I've got it lined up, I use this to push it through and pull out the base. Also to pull it back up near the coil pulling the remaining tails back in a bit...View attachment 409029

Anyways, I guess it's just another way to get those pesky small tails through the base.

I made a coil on a 1.5mm drill bit (roughly 1/16 of an inch, in imperial; I pulled the wick as Ramjet did, I trimmed the ends; 1.24 ohms in 8 wraps. Well, I got to say that is excellent! And the coil sits between the posts, not touching the posts! Thanks! And no need to trim the wick before entering it trough the base holes. It is very important to me to come with a way to wick that is reproducible over and over, with no dry hits. I hope this is it!

 

[Ramjet]

Thanks calinbotez! Yeah, like you said, we're all trying to find that consistent build. I've got two MiniAttys and having got my first two months ago, I'm very satisfied with the results. Getting that exact consistency of Cotten through the base and the coil off the screws is key. It being a new product, obviously it helps to talk about it. Please keep us up to date on your progress.

 

[Susan W.]

I got my new red microstick in the mail today. Was wondering what the little black o-ring was for. Didn't have to use it....

 

[Firestorm]

I just got my new MicroStick from Mini-ECiG about a week ago (#2173) and I absolutely love it and I've been using it non-stop with GP Spheroids. I chose standard shipping and I was very pleased to receive it in nine days.

I am having a problem though - I'm experiencing a significant voltage drop that is affecting the performance and degrading my vaping pleasure. I took it it bits today and polished the brass strip on the bottom plate, the brass pin in the 510 connector, and the brass threads in the battery hole. I've taken apart the switch and cleaned that and the 510 connector as well. Using the same battery and atomizer I tested the voltage under load with an inline voltmeter and I confirmed that the voltage drop is about .6v more than my usual daily carry (a GP Paps LUX v3). I ordered some brass screws to replace the SS screw in the switch, but I'm concerned that something is wrong.

I'm not sure what the problem could be that would explain the significant voltage drop that I'm experiencing. I assume that it is not normal. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for a remedy? Is it possible that the aluminum underneath the brass threading was accidentally anodized?

EDIT - I just read on Vaporwall that an insert nut is used to facilitate conductivity between the brass threads and the anodized aluminum.

 

[Ramjet]

Hmm, over thinking it a bit maybe. What's the voltage drop at the 510 connector without the atty? Mine reads 4.17v. After a few hits 4.14v. That's your source voltage. If there was any resistance you would see it there first. If your having weak voltage under load, perhaps your atty isn't making good contact in the 510. Is the pin warm to the touch after hitting a few times? It shouldn't be. How about a crack in the insulation of that pin? Not sure why it wouldn't show up on the Paps though.

 

[Firestorm]

I’ve measured the source voltage on my MicroStick without any load and it seems fine to me – it matches what I see on other mods and what I see using a multimeter directly with the battery. The atomizer’s center pin is not warm to the touch after prolonged use. One of the first things that I tried was to dismantle and thoroughly clean the Spheroid’s base and 510 connector pieces. Nothing is cracked or damaged and if there was a problem with the atomizer I would expect to experience similar issues on other mods (and I don’t). I have measured the voltage under load with a different GP Spheroid and I get similar results.

I took the MicroStick switch apart again and gave it and the 510 connector a thorough cleaning – three UC cycles in hot soapy water following by a good cleaning with a toothbrush and toothpaste on all of the individual SS parts including the threads. I even scrubbed the brass and SS threadings on the MicroStick body. I also unscrewed the Spheroid center pin a bit to make sure that it was making good contact with the MicroStick center pin. The voltage drop is less than before and it’s about .15v to .2v lower than my uncleaned Paps that I’m using as reference.

I’m not sure if your comment about maybe over thinking it was directed at me or yourself. I’ve been at this vaping thing using mechanical mods for a few years now and I don’t usually concern myself with voltage drop unless there is a noticeable problem. I don’t care for the phrase that a given mod “hits hard” and voltage drop is not really something that I consider when purchasing a mod unless it is a significant problem. The troubleshooting that I’ve engaged in is not academic in nature – I started doing it when I noticed a decrease in performance with my MicroStick when the battery was around 3.9v that felt similar the decrease in performance that I experience on other mods when batteries drop below 3.7v which is when I choose to recharge them.

 

[LittleDonkey]

I got my new red microstick in the mail today. Was wondering what the little black o-ring was for. Didn't have to use it....

Hi Susan,
Look at this picture:
http://mini-ecig.com/image/data/MiniStick/mis_35.JPG
You can see a screw in the button of the MicroStick. When the button is pressed this screw touches the battery and MicroStick is firing. If your battery is a bit short, the screw doesn't touch the battery and then you can slightly unscrew it to make contact. The screw gets loose, so you need an O-ring to fix it.

 

[Ramjet]

Firestorm, the over thinking comment was my mistake. It appears your probably on to some thing here. Considering how many post are behind us, the answer is probably back there some place. I certainly don't have the obvious experience you've developed with machanicles over the years, that is for sure, but this is what I've thought of today. Attaching the MiniAtty to an Ego T under load I read 2.90v. This battery has a 3.95v charge so a drop of 1.05v appears on the miniatty attached. Doing the same thing with a microstick with a battery charge of 3.9v and 2.5v under load, then the drop is 1.4v versus 1.05 on the ego t (.35v difference ). Now I'm thinking the problem may be inherent with a microstick because of the bottom plate. There are two connections here that have voltage loss potential. Just as loose connections on a circuit will cause heat and voltage drop, so this bottom plate could be sort of a weak link. Your Paps and my ego t are similar only in the sense the connection from battery to 510 are soldered solid. No friction contacts.

Anyway, these are probably non consequential to most because had you not brought it up, I for one wouldn't have known what I was missing. A contact grease would possibly reduce the loss if any one is inclined to use it.
But then again, I may be in over my head hear

 

[Susan W.]

OhKay.....I get it now...Thanks!!

Hi Susan,
Look at this picture:
http://mini-ecig.com/image/data/MiniStick/mis_35.JPG
You can see a screw in the button of the MicroStick. When the button is pressed this screw touches the battery and MicroStick is firing. If your battery is a bit short, the screw doesn't touch the battery and then you can slightly unscrew it to make contact. The screw gets loose, so you need an O-ring to fix it.

 

[LittleDonkey]

XvoStick is our first regulated mod. It will be one of the smallest in the category: only 80mm high!

Chels is currently working on a prototype, which will be ready in the end of February.

Features:
DNA40: latest version with temperature control, Fahrenheit and Celsius
18650 battery (not included)
USB charger
Screen on the bottom
Easy access to the chip (for example, to replace it)

Dimensions:
Height: 80 mm
Atty hole: diameter - 23.5mm, depth - 35 mm
Bottom size: 27 mm x 49 mm
Atomizer hole depth: 32.5 mm

Expected price is $199.

Please subscribe for stock updates if you'd like to own one.
We need to know how many DNA40 chips to order.
XvoStick (sales start in March) - Mini ECIG

Retailers are welcome. Please, contact us.
We plan to start sales in March.

What do you think about this new mod?
The prototype work is ongoing, so if you think, we need to change something, then it's time to tell about it

 

[Arnold Ziffle]

looks nice and I'm sure it will be a quality piece but the fire button looks uncomfortably low. seems like thumb firing would be tough but middle or ring finger would be ok.

 

[Mark Denison]

looks nice and I'm sure it will be a quality piece but the fire button looks uncomfortably low. seems like thumb firing would be tough but middle or ring finger would be ok.

+1 ..........

 

[Firestorm]

Firestorm, the over thinking comment was my mistake. It appears your probably on to some thing here. Considering how many post are behind us, the answer is probably back there some place. I certainly don't have the obvious experience you've developed with machanicles over the years, that is for sure, but this is what I've thought of today. Attaching the MiniAtty to an Ego T under load I read 2.90v. This battery has a 3.95v charge so a drop of 1.05v appears on the miniatty attached. Doing the same thing with a microstick with a battery charge of 3.9v and 2.5v under load, then the drop is 1.4v versus 1.05 on the ego t (.35v difference ). Now I'm thinking the problem may be inherent with a microstick because of the bottom plate. There are two connections here that have voltage loss potential. Just as loose connections on a circuit will cause heat and voltage drop, so this bottom plate could be sort of a weak link. Your Paps and my ego t are similar only in the sense the connection from battery to 510 are soldered solid. No friction contacts.

Anyway, these are probably non consequential to most because had you not brought it up, I for one wouldn't have known what I was missing. A contact grease would possibly reduce the loss if any one is inclined to use it.
But then again, I may be in over my head hear

I won’t receive the brass screws that I ordered to replace the SS screw in the MicroStick switch for a while (slow shipping from China), but I’m interested to see if it helps to make a difference with respect to the voltage drop that I’m experiencing. Sadly, I think that my MicroStick will sit on a shelf until then. I don’t have any other mechanical mods that have SS contacts – my modest collection includes brass, silver plated brass, gold over silver plated brass, 925 pure silver, and rhodium plated silver contacts. I used to have a Gus 22 that had a SS contact in the switch (coincidentally, it had a horrible voltage drop; I sold it a while ago). I think one would be hard pressed to find another new mechanical mod with any SS contacts these days.

None of my mechanical mods, including the GP Paps, have soldered connections. In my opinion, by definition, mechanical mods should have no wires or soldering. I also avoid dialectic grease and Noalox – I think they just promote dirt and grime to collect that would have a negative impact on conductivity over time as they become dirty. That being said, I did try applying some NO-OX-ID A-Special (electrical contact grease) on my MicroStick where the brass 510 pin meets the brass plate and it didn’t help.

I have already read through this entire thread and I don't recall reading anything related to voltage drop.

 

[Ramjet]

I do have a brass screw in mine, but I'm not sure wether it sold with that or not since I bought it used. I suppose most hardware stores would carry the brass screw though. Now it appears that I have almost half the voltage drop your having so maybe the screw will be a plus.

Since I work in an office, discretion is important to me. This Microstick/miniAtty fits nicely in my pocket and having a battery and atty side by side is stealthy. I must say I do enjoy this mod because of its compact size.

Now with that being said and since you brought up this problem of voltage drop and it not being discussed in the past threads, I'm wondering if perhaps Little donkey could shed some light on this before we belabor this any further.

 

[Firestorm]

I do have a brass screw in mine, but I'm not sure wether it sold with that or not since I bought it used. I suppose most hardware stores would carry the brass screw though.

Specific metric screws are not so easy to find in the US. Believe me, I'd much rather have picked some up at my local Home Depot.

Since I work in an office, discretion is important to me. This Microstick/miniAtty fits nicely in my pocket and having a battery and atty side by side is stealthy. I must say I do enjoy this mod because of its compact size.

I absolutely love the small form factor. I mostly use 18350 batteries and I too stealth vape in my office and pretty much everywhere outside of the house. I love the feel of the button and how you can conceal the whole mod in your hand while you vape.

Now with that being said and since you brought up this problem of voltage drop and it not being discussed in the past threads, I'm wondering if perhaps Little donkey could shed some light on this before we belabor this any further.

I was hoping that my problem was an isolated issue and that Little Donkey would chime in and demonstrate the kind of customer support that I appreciate when I buy mods directly from the modder. I have to believe that she has seen my posts...

 

[Masonite]

Hey Firestorm
I had a problem with my microstick not firing when i first got mine. I followed all the troubleshooting steps, scraped off annodising ect. Firing was intermittent at best. It did fire well when I connected a wire to the switch body to the atty body. What i finally did was took apart the switch and screwed the switch base back into the brass insert without the button....then with an allen key (sorry...can't remember the size) insterted where the button would travel torqued the brass threads about 1/16th of a turn. Then it was hitting amazing. I'm not 100% sure but i think in mine there wasn't enough contact between the brass threaded insert and the un-anodised part of the microstick body.

That's what worked for me. Hopefully Chels chimes in to see if this is something she'd advise you to try. Good luck

 

[Ramjet]

Hey Firestorm
I had a problem with my microstick not firing when i first got mine. I followed all the troubleshooting steps, scraped off annodising ect. Firing was intermittent at best. It did fire well when I connected a wire to the switch body to the atty body. What i finally did was took apart the switch and screwed the switch base back into the brass insert without the button....then with an allen key (sorry...can't remember the size) insterted where the button would travel torqued the brass threads about 1/16th of a turn. Then it was hitting amazing. I'm not 100% sure but i think in mine there wasn't enough contact between the brass threaded insert and the un-anodised part of the microstick body.

That's what worked for me. Hopefully Chels chimes in to see if this is something she'd advise you to try. Good luck

WOW! What I thought was good enough apparently still missed the mark. Just laying the fork tool across both the base and atty body gave a very noticeable increase in energy. Oh boy, now I see what the big deal was in Firestorms case.

Thanks for chiming in Masonite! Now I can fix what I didn't know needed fixing. And Firestorm...thanks for dragging me down this path

 

[LittleDonkey]

It's not always possible to notice a question of forum. It's better to contact us here, because then we try to answer all questions in 24 hours:
Contact Us - Mini ECIG

It looks like the connection is bad somewhere in the MicroStick.

There are several important points:
A - brass plate on the bottom of the battery compartment
B - body of the atty
C - brass insertion in the battery compartment
D - [with bottom plate removed] brass pin in the 510 connector
E - [with bottom plate removed] outer part of 510 connector
F - [with bottom plate removed] screw hole for the bottom cap

Please, check with multimeter:

E-F: expected a very small value (if not, the problem is between 510 connector and the body. Try to unscrew it half a turn and check again)
B-D: expected resistance = wire resistance (if not, the atty doesn't touch the brass pin or the problem is in the wire)
C-F: expected a very small value (if not, the problem is in the brass insertion. To clean it, use a needle)
A-B: expeceted resistance = wire resistance (if not, the brass pin doesn't touch the brass plate. Press on the brass pin)

When I say "a very small value" it means that it's equal to the value when you just connect 2 probes on the multimeter.

Please, let me know if this helps.

 

[Ramjet]

Thanks Little donkey! That's a very helpful chart. I put a copy in my note book