My next purchase will likely be the cloupor T8. I'm very happy with my T5 which goes up to 9.3v, but the T8 goes to 15v. It should make me quite a happy vaper!
My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
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Decided to play around a little bit. I had built a 1.4 ohms micro coil into my kayfun for my provari and was obviously very limited to the voltage I could run it at. With that set up it took a bit to heat up and the vape was lack luster. My original go to build was a 1.8 28g microcoil and the vape on that was pretty satisfactory. So for fun I built a 30g micro coil that came out to 2.22 ohms. Im hitting it with 5.4 volts and the vapor is instant and the taste is good. I know the provari is a different animal than my IPV2
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And then comes the DNA40. You build a coil with NI200 wire just like you did with Kanthal. Only now you are in the .1 to .2 ohm range. You set your temp to 410 to 430 F a temp that most juices vaporize at. When you hit the fire button it pumps the total 9v on the coil to immediately heats it to just below the set temp. The chip then keeps that temp throughout your draw. Dry, wet, long draw, short draw, the temp stays constant and the watts jump all over the place keeping the temp constant. Been beta testing two units for 3 weeks. As far as I am concerned best vapor I have ever had and safest never a dry hit. Won't even burn the cotton dry. This is a new era.
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Errr... why?I'm really excited about the 25 DNA chip that is being discussed at the end of Phil's video. Who knows, with temperature control in place, I may even be brave and try, say, 11 watts--just to find out what that high-wattage vaping is all about!
Power applied will only affect heat up time unless the wire is too thick.
Other than the wire being too thick and/or too long for the available power why would the power applied matter when coil temperature is the controlled variable? 200 watts shouldn't vape any different than 8 watts with the exception of lag time.
Wow, you lose at life if you take that much time to type something out to try and convince people that their clouds aren't necessarily being produced exactly the way they think they are. Have fun with that dude. Lol
The DNA4O has no temp probe. The temp is based on the very constant resistance rise of nickel as the the wire heats up. A ambient temp ohm reading is taken when you first hit the coil and from then on as the resistance goes up or down it is regulated. The chip knows what the ohms should be for lets say 410 F and keeps that resistance. If your coil by chance, as stated here would get a dry spot the resistance would immediately go way up and you would never get a hot spot on the coil of 700 degrees. I have not been able to get red wire on either unit 25 watt or 40 watt, even when purposely trying to short or have uneven wicking, New coil setups always have to be installed at ambient temp for the unit to get a true first reading. The chip asks if it a new coil.
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And then comes the DNA40. You build a coil with NI200 wire just like you did with Kanthal. Only now you are in the .1 to .2 ohm range. You set your temp to 410 to 430 F a temp that most juices vaporize at. When you hit the fire button it pumps the total 9v on the coil to immediately heats it to just below the set temp. The chip then keeps that temp throughout your draw. Dry, wet, long draw, short draw, the temp stays constant and the watts jump all over the place keeping the temp constant. Been beta testing two units for 3 weeks. As far as I am concerned best vapor I have ever had and safest never a dry hit. Won't even burn the cotton dry. This is a new era.
Nice to hear from someone who has used this
. It's also nice to hear that this thing works well. Did you set the device to 40 watts when you vaped it like this?
I looked in a mirror while vaping and watched the watts, on most of my setups the watt range while vaping goes from around 10 w to maintan temp and jumps to 26 watts during my long draws. So I set the 40 at 30 watts. The 25 I always leave at 25 watts. I will be posting a bunch of setups. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/542055-mike-n-tibs-dna-mods.htmlNice to hear from someone who has used this
The 25 watt chip will be cheaper.
I don't necessarily want to pay for all the watts I'll never use.
Great thread.
I keep my Magma around 0.5-0.6 ohms with 26 gauge, 0.8 with 28 gauge, or 1.4 ohms with 30 gauge. I've settled in with using the 26 gauge, even though the 30 gauge is probably the best vape.
Here's why: 9 wraps of 26 gauge is a lot easier to manage than 12-13 wraps of 30 gauge - simpler build (and 30 gauge has a tendency to break in the post holes). Also, the thicker wire gunks less and lasts longer than thinner gauge - less rebuilds. Third is wicking - the center of the coil heats faster than the outside, and is harder to keep saturated.
Sure, ohms don't matter too much when it comes to the actual vape (the 30 gauge is awesome), but my 26 gauge builds are more convenient.
I keep my Magma around 0.5-0.6 ohms with 26 gauge, 0.8 with 28 gauge, or 1.4 ohms with 30 gauge. I've settled in with using the 26 gauge, even though the 30 gauge is probably the best vape.
Here's why: 9 wraps of 26 gauge is a lot easier to manage than 12-13 wraps of 30 gauge - simpler build (and 30 gauge has a tendency to break in the post holes). Also, the thicker wire gunks less and lasts longer than thinner gauge - less rebuilds. Third is wicking - the center of the coil heats faster than the outside, and is harder to keep saturated.
Sure, ohms don't matter too much when it comes to the actual vape (the 30 gauge is awesome), but my 26 gauge builds are more convenient.
Bottom line, it's all about finding what works for you - hence the ubiquitous "YMMV" and "IMO". A regulated mod allows a lot more flexibility and control over the many variables that lead to a good vape.
Thanks BJ. I'll pick it up there. Lots of good info there already
. So far, it sounds like this could really be a game changer.
Yup and almost nothing works well for everyone for one reason or another. The nice thing is we have so much good stuff out there these days almost everyone should be able to find a sweet spot with something.
Prediction;
As temp control gets refined and takes over, we're going to see everything get back to the fundamentals. Surface area and air flow are going to be what defines a persons perfect vape. They'll not have to bother with power and ohms at some point.
Though ohms will still likely be referenced in relation to surface area via gauge unless voltage and power sky rocket quickly with controlled temp devices as they're currently doing in the rest of the market niches.
In other words hopefully we'll rid ourselves of the mindset that those crazy sub ohm kids are going to ruin it for everyone with their atomic bomb batteries on their weather control devices making rain clouds in 5 star restaurants and ruining everyone's good times with explosions and London fog.
Dual 18650s in series, buck only. It will regulate down from supplied voltage (8.4v on two fresh batteries), but not up, so max voltage depends on what the batteries are at, with a 30 amp limit.
When it comes to straight maximum capabilities, it's much better than the IPV2 (boost, single 18650, 16 amps). I have both, and use both. Keep drippers on the Sigelei built around 0.4-0.7 ohms, and my Fogger on the IPV2 at 1.4 ohms.
If looking to max out, the Sigelei needs a sub-ohm build. 100w @ 8.4v = 0.706 ohms, 100w @ 7.2v = 0.518 ohms. Amp limit isn't really an issue, since it will only fire a 0.15 ohm or higher build.
Amen.
And our favorite juices will come with recommended temperature and wattage settings for each flavor printed on the label--right next to nicotine strength and PG/VG ratio.
I like your prediction beckdg, but I think it will take a while for this to take over the industry. It could help with regulatory approvals, so maybe that will speed things up but the technology will have to be developed more by other companies before that takes place. It will surely be interesting
Actually it pushes 40w but no more during preheat.
Nice to hear from someone who has used this
You've been hearing from someone who has used this for several pages now
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