So, to make sure they're not lying in what they SAY about the juice? Really?
Natural Tobaccos
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So, to make sure they're not lying in what they SAY about the juice? Really?
Indeed. Like this reaction shot.. my favorite vaping video, and under a minute.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=9nwaQb7Vj-I
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
Best Crab Juice Face? Todd's was something else. Here's one from Stuart? Of Vapor Chase.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/luIhYa8-FuI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/luIhYa8-FuI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
As far as gunked up coils go and no-one is going to believe me but I have had only one coil blow on me in a year of vaping. I vape 90% my own juice about 50% made from extracts. I use .3 - .4 mm Kanthal A1 ribbon wire. It's easy to burn clean and a joy to use. Whether it's Ekowool, braided silica or mesh it wraps nicely. I can't believe how gunky a coil gets after one day of vaping juice made from extracts. It takes 4x longer to clean the coil than from a synth juice. So try it you'll like it, especially wrapped around an Ekowool top on a wire rope wick.
I have been wanting to talk about something with you all, but I had been forgetting about it. Seeing as how the topic of gunk is up, it's a good time.
I see most that use RDAs talking about what gunks really badly and what gunks only so much, but the fact is, it seems that with RDAs, even clean "burning" juices gunk. I used Halo P15 in my eBDP and even it still got the coils dark after awhile and needed to be cleaned. I get no problems in my normal attys with HHV, almost all of GeJs, Darth Vapers, Ahlusion non-aros (and sometimes the aros), and a few others. Is the whole notion of gunk even variable when it comes to gear? It seems that way to me. Obviously with vendors like MVJ, gunk comes comes out of the bottle. Oy vey.
I see most that use RDAs talking about what gunks really badly and what gunks only so much, but the fact is, it seems that with RDAs, even clean "burning" juices gunk. I used Halo P15 in my eBDP and even it still got the coils dark after awhile and needed to be cleaned. I get no problems in my normal attys with HHV, almost all of GeJs, Darth Vapers, Ahlusion non-aros (and sometimes the aros), and a few others. Is the whole notion of gunk even variable when it comes to gear? It seems that way to me. Obviously with vendors like MVJ, gunk comes comes out of the bottle. Oy vey.
A coil is a coil whether in a disposable or a rebuildable. Some stuff in juice will not atomize and will become "gunk" on any coil. I have run some unflavored juice lately and even it will eventually build some gunk, albeit much more slowly.
There is more talk of gunk on rebuildable coils I would estimate because you can see and touch the coil whereas in most disposables you can't.
There is more talk of gunk on rebuildable coils I would estimate because you can see and touch the coil whereas in most disposables you can't.
Hell, bill h doesn't even get gunk from NETs in cartos.
Oh, I get it all right. I just don't care about it.
I agree with johni. Every coil gets gunked, just a question of how long it takes and how much flavor is lost from the burned on carbon.
Is it? I mean, if a coil is a coil, then why so many different approaches? I think that a coil is not solely a coil when the surface area is not a given. I get what you are saying, but I do not mean coils where you can see gunk, but most people change coils out because of diminished performance, not aesthetics. I have used a regular attys for up to 2 months with no cleaning and got none of the problems I get with my RDA after a few days of usage on synthetic tobaccos. I guess the issue is that some coils just promote gunking super quickly? I don't know. I am new to the coil life.
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Thanks Bill. I started to add that, yes, even your coils gunk but figured you'd come along to help me out.
Oh, I was under the impression that you didn't "get" the gunk or that you didn't notice it. I was mostly joking anyway as I don't see how it's possible to not get it in cartos considering how short of a life they have.
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I don't know if I posed my question correctly, but I want to know why the hell is it hat I have to rebuild so frequently with RBAs? I mean, on perfectly easy-on-coils liquid, they prove to not be so easy on RBA coils? I guess when I got my eBDP I thought that I would be able to use a coil for at least two weeks without diminished performance. I guess it's like anything that has increased performance. I mean, with RBA coils, it must be like racing tires after a race--they go through a helluva lot to perform like that whereas normal tires for regular driving can last quite awhile before needing to be replaced. Both are tires, but still very different and have different output for given circumstances.
Carto coils seem to gunk up more slowly because they are constantly wet, not allowing the carbon to accumulate and be cooked as rapidly. The stuff that would otherwise become gunk instead becomes the used motor oil looking liquid that accumulates in the bottom of the carto. That's my best guess!
How often are you rebuilding MM? I find most coils on rebuildables will outlast their usefulness. After a week or so of heavy use and regular dry burning it seems like flavor starts to fall off some but the coil is still intact and fires fine. I have run some coils considerably longer without major performance reduction.
Well, I get peak performance for about day 2 and 3, but then a drop-off. I dry burn until the coils and wick look virtually spotless (after day 3), but the peak performance is gone, never to be obtained again from that coil. Essentially what I get after the peak performance has died is a normal-atty performance but in juice-guzzling fashion (which is why I predominantly use my regular attys). As far as what kind of coil and wick, that I can't really say because I obtained several already-built coils (so when I talk about "rebuiliding," I am talking more of just re-installing). But to answer your question, I have to use a new coil at least once every 4-5 days if I use it a lot.
I am debating as to what to get for my next set-up (probably a mech and RBA), but I have to admit: I am not a tinkerer.
I want to not give up with trying to get the most out of RBAs, I just wish it was less of rebuiliding (not my favorite part). I guess I will have to learn to love it, or at the very least, learn to deal with it.
If you use the coil constantly, 4-5 days might be it. It does depend on the wire to a degree (Nichrome seems to outlast Kanthal, but not by a lot). Wick also can be a difference. I use cotton, dryburn and rewick at least every other day, usually daily, depending on the juice. Since dry burns are done without a wick present, the inside of the coil gets cleaned far better (I use a small wire brush).
Since you are using prebuilt coils, I would assume they are helical in shape (coils don't touch one another). I prefer the microcoil (successive wraps touch each other). Micros are very close to Cisco spec and and offer several advantages. Foremost, they allow you to run a higher resistance coil that performs like a lower resistance conventional coil. They accumulate gunk slower thus requiring less dryburning which contributes to longer coil life! The downside: silica doesn't seem to wick well enough to keep up (Jerms' experience excepted) so most wick them with cotton and cotton can't be dryburned.
Bottom line: improved performance often does require some compromise. Rebuildables do take some fiddling but rebuilds cost little. For me, rebuilding has just become routine and I find it worthwhile for the improved vape.
Since you are using prebuilt coils, I would assume they are helical in shape (coils don't touch one another). I prefer the microcoil (successive wraps touch each other). Micros are very close to Cisco spec and and offer several advantages. Foremost, they allow you to run a higher resistance coil that performs like a lower resistance conventional coil. They accumulate gunk slower thus requiring less dryburning which contributes to longer coil life! The downside: silica doesn't seem to wick well enough to keep up (Jerms' experience excepted) so most wick them with cotton and cotton can't be dryburned.
Bottom line: improved performance often does require some compromise. Rebuildables do take some fiddling but rebuilds cost little. For me, rebuilding has just become routine and I find it worthwhile for the improved vape.
Thanks you so much for that. It made sense. Filling away in my mental Rolodex now.
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