BJ, I looked back but can't tell. Is the tube set some into the metal? I see nice production at the top only and it looks to be running nice and clean. 
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By the way the Scubaqu-Bamboo is on a DID clone, I have tried the air hole in all positions and really don't see any difference in the position of the airhole. I just try to keep it off directly on the coils so it doesn't cool them as much. If we have a closed chamber and it fills with vaper and it only has one small air source in and one large out causing a vacuum, I doubt the position of a 1mm hole has much effect, but that is only my opinion.
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asdag: It is just setting on the top. Tried recessed into the metal and it caused to much volcanic action out the top. IMOBJ, I looked back but can't tell. Is the tube set some into the metal? I see nice production at the top only and it looks to be running nice and clean.
Then thats part of my issue the glass is 3/4 of the way down in and it is like a volcano. Gotta love those $8 co-op attys.
Scubaqu- Bamboo has been going for three days now. It is my best tasting vape ever. The coils have not gunked. The inside of the tube is black but still giving clean flavor. I could pull some new thread up from the bottom but it is so good I don't want to mess with it yet. Sorry for the messy studio, my wife would kill me if she knew I put this on video
BJ, Looking good!
It looks like your tube is ~1.5x or so longer than your coil, is your bamboo wick all the way to the top?
However you have it set up it looks like you have got the majority of the vapor coming out the top, which should help gunk on your coil.
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My intention was to leave the threads flat with the top of the tube but when I tightened the Did some thread wrapped around the center post and pulled it down a bit, so I just left it there and it works. Really can't make an opinion on the three chambered but feel it would only increase the heat sick waste.
BJ, that setup is looking awesome man!!!
I wouldn't abandon a three chamber design just yet, i think it will be the best chance for this to work with all wicking materials. I'm no engineer but if you completely separate the coil chamber and the air intake/vapor chamber it would seem to me that you couldn't help but increase heat transfer from coil to wick, and with an isolated vapor chamber then one could work with different sized and shaped top caps to get optimally tuned vapor accumulation and vortex.
With a single chamber setup, even if the air hole isn't directly on the coil there is still air moving around the coil and still creating a slight cooling effect.
I finally got my tubes in (fused quartz 3mm od x 2mm id) and snapped off one small piece do do a quick test on my DuD. wrapped a 1.5ohm coil with a 5/6 wrap of 28g A1. Ran it at 3.7v and to my surprise it worked pretty well for a quick and dirty first shot. My first raw impressions kinda confirmed my thoughts that properly designed airflow for this specific setup will be key to success. I will be able to work with it a lil more in the next few days when I'm a lil less busy and try some other things.
I still don't have my lathe yet but I am hoping to have it in my shop in the next couple of weeks and can hopefully turn out a couple of different designs. I fully believe this coil/wick design has every chance of being as good or better than current coil and wicks but I just feel that since it is a different style of heating the wick that it needs a more sophisticated/precise atomizer design to go around it to get the most out of it.
We'll see what happens.
I wouldn't abandon a three chamber design just yet, i think it will be the best chance for this to work with all wicking materials. I'm no engineer but if you completely separate the coil chamber and the air intake/vapor chamber it would seem to me that you couldn't help but increase heat transfer from coil to wick, and with an isolated vapor chamber then one could work with different sized and shaped top caps to get optimally tuned vapor accumulation and vortex.
With a single chamber setup, even if the air hole isn't directly on the coil there is still air moving around the coil and still creating a slight cooling effect.
I finally got my tubes in (fused quartz 3mm od x 2mm id) and snapped off one small piece do do a quick test on my DuD. wrapped a 1.5ohm coil with a 5/6 wrap of 28g A1. Ran it at 3.7v and to my surprise it worked pretty well for a quick and dirty first shot. My first raw impressions kinda confirmed my thoughts that properly designed airflow for this specific setup will be key to success. I will be able to work with it a lil more in the next few days when I'm a lil less busy and try some other things.
I still don't have my lathe yet but I am hoping to have it in my shop in the next couple of weeks and can hopefully turn out a couple of different designs. I fully believe this coil/wick design has every chance of being as good or better than current coil and wicks but I just feel that since it is a different style of heating the wick that it needs a more sophisticated/precise atomizer design to go around it to get the most out of it.
We'll see what happens.
I can't answer all your questions but this thread most likely can
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html
I picked up some of the Aunt Lydia's #10 natural bamboo crochet thread at Michaels
Looks like this Aunt Lydia's Bamboo Crochet Thread-Many Colors.: crochet thread & floss.: needle arts.: .Shop | Joann.com
It's sitting in the hole, about 1/16", 3mm glass on a DiD 3.5 hole.
This was a throw together and see what's up, build. Still needs work.
This is "KISS" method, works great. The other thread lost me, haha.
we kinda have to change the thought process a lil bit regarding the air supply when looking at this type of coil/wick.
Yes, in traditional coil on wick configurations that we use today more air to the coil creates better vapor as the liquid is being vaporized right at that spot and the air passing the coil takes the vapor away and allows more juice to be vaporized instantly. This works really well because vapor is coming off of every surface of the coil and it's actually very very efficient.
With a ScubaQu (love that name BTW), vapor is primarily coming from one spot.......the end of the tube. Air to the coil does no good as we know it will cool it off. My point was really only stating that since the vapor in ScubaQu is coming from a smaller more localized spot then we need to figure out what air flow works best to transport the vapor away from the end of the tube. Too much air and it overcomes the vapor production and you get a light hit, not enough and it just cooks juice. The reason vapor production is worse when you put the cap on with a ScubaQu is that the design of the cap and air hole on existing atomizers is expecting that vapor to be coming off all the areas at the coil and then being shot to the mouthpiece, since it's only coming from one small spot vapor production gets hindered. This is why I think a redesign of atomizer.....or at least the top cap will be needed. maybe just a simple baffle that could slip into an existing atomizers top cap that would create some separation of the coil area and the vapor area.
My intention was never to "seal" the coil, I want it to stay open. But I think the air needs to be focused onto the end of the tube where the vapor is. Dunno what the best way to do it is but I think air hitting the vapor AND the coil in a single space is wasting air and efficiency in getting the most vapor out of this coil/wick.
I will be able to do more in the next few days...
Yes, in traditional coil on wick configurations that we use today more air to the coil creates better vapor as the liquid is being vaporized right at that spot and the air passing the coil takes the vapor away and allows more juice to be vaporized instantly. This works really well because vapor is coming off of every surface of the coil and it's actually very very efficient.
With a ScubaQu (love that name BTW), vapor is primarily coming from one spot.......the end of the tube. Air to the coil does no good as we know it will cool it off. My point was really only stating that since the vapor in ScubaQu is coming from a smaller more localized spot then we need to figure out what air flow works best to transport the vapor away from the end of the tube. Too much air and it overcomes the vapor production and you get a light hit, not enough and it just cooks juice. The reason vapor production is worse when you put the cap on with a ScubaQu is that the design of the cap and air hole on existing atomizers is expecting that vapor to be coming off all the areas at the coil and then being shot to the mouthpiece, since it's only coming from one small spot vapor production gets hindered. This is why I think a redesign of atomizer.....or at least the top cap will be needed. maybe just a simple baffle that could slip into an existing atomizers top cap that would create some separation of the coil area and the vapor area.
My intention was never to "seal" the coil, I want it to stay open. But I think the air needs to be focused onto the end of the tube where the vapor is. Dunno what the best way to do it is but I think air hitting the vapor AND the coil in a single space is wasting air and efficiency in getting the most vapor out of this coil/wick.
I will be able to do more in the next few days...
Spraintz: I don't understand your science behind your theory, but I just put a clear combustion chamber on mine and see no less vaper with the cap on as with the cap off. Just make sure that the tube is not pressing up against the top cap and restricting the flow. Keep the tubes 10mm or less and below the center cap. On all six I have going I have equal vaper cap on or cap off. I have three with SS, one with Lydias thread, one with silica, which by the way for mamu, works great, and now one with hemp that I am breaking in.
Edit: just melted my clear combustion chamber trying to video, but at least it showed equal vaper for a few minutes.
Edit: just melted my clear combustion chamber trying to video, but at least it showed equal vaper for a few minutes.
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Clic pic for video.
Cap off and cap on. Because of draw vacumn I actually get more vaper when I draw than static. Me thinks guys complicate things too much it is probably a simple solution of why you are not getting vaper.
Cap off
Cap on
Cap off and cap on. Because of draw vacumn I actually get more vaper when I draw than static. Me thinks guys complicate things too much it is probably a simple solution of why you are not getting vaper.
Cap off
Cap on
Just curious. Whats it like when the coils glow hot on the glass tube? Is the re positioned air hole enough to keep that from happening or is it dependant on wicking or lower voltages? (Or does it even matter) I just got my glass tubes yesterday so going to try it out this evening. Where are people getting there FQ tubes from?
Clic pic for video.
Cap off and cap on. Because of draw vacumn I actually get more vaper when I draw than static. Me thinks guys complicate things too much it is probably a simple solution of why you are not getting vaper.
Cap off
Cap on
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Ok gdeal: lets see that flat wire coil
I am jealous you got yours before I did.
I am jealous you got yours before I did.
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I am running my coils at a voltage on pyrex that they are just barely starting to turn red or just before that temp at static. With air flow while vaping I don't think they are getting red, but alas not superman and no xray eyes.
Back to the airhole, IMO just not on the coil. Anywhere else ok and lower better.
Ok gdeal: lets see that flat wire coil
I am jealous you got yours before I did.
I would trade your warmer weather for a few extra delivery days...quickpic..... (sorry about the OT)...
Looks good Gdeal...hey there BJ! I like the looks of that ribbon. How does it compare? Source?
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