Fused Quartz Tubes and Labware: Quartz Scientific, Inc. Doesn't have a minimum order qty....cost ~$18 for 4' $15ish was shipping....took about a week to get from Ohio to Utah
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Fused Quartz Tubes and Labware: Quartz Scientific, Inc. Doesn't have a minimum order qty....cost ~$18 for 4' $15ish was shipping....took about a week to get from Ohio to Utah
Rlafontaine1971, I haven't done this yet (waiting for tube) but I suspect that the best defense against coil overheat is to make sure you have a nice tight coil that touches the glass all the way around...your basic "no hot spots" stuff but even more critical since very little juice will be on the coil to cool it. Since the coil is on a glass tube and not the wick, you can really put a strangle-hold on it with no problems. I suspect that glass beads on the legs/leads might help with this.
The coil that gdeal just showed us is very nicely done. Good job, gdeal!
One thought I had is to how much the amount of wick protruding from the top of the tube effects the vapor production. Would think that a bit more would not only baffle some of the spitting/volcano effect but also might be of benefit in vapor production and might be a good target for an air hole. I recall a video of an attempt to produce a "room freshener" vaporizer that someone put in the original thread (the one that made the vapor rings) and when he had a little bunny tail of cotton sticking out of the top. hitting it with some air from a needle rally increased vapor production.
The coil that gdeal just showed us is very nicely done. Good job, gdeal!
One thought I had is to how much the amount of wick protruding from the top of the tube effects the vapor production. Would think that a bit more would not only baffle some of the spitting/volcano effect but also might be of benefit in vapor production and might be a good target for an air hole. I recall a video of an attempt to produce a "room freshener" vaporizer that someone put in the original thread (the one that made the vapor rings) and when he had a little bunny tail of cotton sticking out of the top. hitting it with some air from a needle rally increased vapor production.
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bapgood, did you get the size 10 Aunt Lydia's Bamboo thread you had in your link or is there a better size available? I like the price for testing stuff.
I got mine at michaels....but I think it is fairly common so maybe even Walmart....that is the only size I saw....BJ said in one post he used 4 threads so that's where I started
Thanks, bapgood.
Ooo...just had another thought when looking at gdeal's washer thing. What if a larger washer were used (fender washer) and a hole drilled in it right where the wick is? This would act as a sort of splash shield for the coil and might help further with air flow. Of course, it might just as easily totally bung up the air flow...donno. Would have to be pretty careful with the height of the coil tube with the placement of the washer.
Ooo...just had another thought when looking at gdeal's washer thing. What if a larger washer were used (fender washer) and a hole drilled in it right where the wick is? This would act as a sort of splash shield for the coil and might help further with air flow. Of course, it might just as easily totally bung up the air flow...donno. Would have to be pretty careful with the height of the coil tube with the placement of the washer.
This was my thought; if you could attach a small fan blade at the top of the center post, as you drew air through the drip tip, it would spin and mix the incoming air and vapor...
That's pretty much all I could find a couple of weeks ago. It's thread, so think thin. Not bad price-wise though, $3 for 300yds at Michael's.
It might even work with a static (non-spinning) "fan blade" if the air hole is below that point. The fan blade might cause the air to swirl around it.
I am by no means an expert, but doesn't an airhole in the side of the top cap already cause a swirling air vortex inside the top cap?
It may, but the problem is that for good taste, the airhole needs to be in line with the wick - with the airhole in front of the wick, it is cooling the glass. If moved elsewhere, the taste is bad and awful throat hit. We are trying to find an alternate way of mixing the air up.
Well, I can't say for certain, and I'd love to see it in action with a clear top on a DID, DUD, etc., but I would guess that, unless the air stream encounters something on its way from the air hole to the mouth piece, it pretty much arcs straight from hole to bottom of drip tip. As dsy5 pointed out, under normal circumstances, you direct the air directly at the coil/wick to pull as much vapor off as possible but...
Thinking about it a bit though, the best we could hope for from some sort of vortex action would be a lot of air passing by the coil/wick...yes? So, we would be doing something indirectly that we would normally be doing directly...not certain if it would be a real advantage...
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So I can comfortably say for sure that ECF went off line at approx. 7:28 PM EDT yesterday just as I was replying to this message...
I have used 3 different RBAs that accept a second wick, and there is nothing that produces flavor anywhere close to a genny with a dual wick configuration. Do yourselves a favor and drill a second hole in something thats not plated brass and set up a dual wick and coil. The first 12 or so hrs it is quite a strong TH, but once it settles down it is amazing.
Now I believe this thread was started because the last got so far off course, so I would like to officially bring this one back to the ScubaQu.
BTW Dan, Thank you once again for bringing us another one of your great ideas.
Last night I took a fresh, unmodded Chobra and used about a 7 mm long pc of Pyrex. First I slipped a pc of 3 mm silica in there and it seemed to choke off any vapor production to the point of almost useless. Then I pulled the silica out and dropped in a SS wick. The glass was just sitting on the top plate. The vapor production was moderate, flavor was on par. Honestly after months of vaping gennys, I don't see myself continuing down this path (glass tube), unless one of you fine folks has some big breakthrough. I don't care for the volcanic action that still is occurring, no matter how low I keep the voltage, I can still feel the bubbling action inside.
I am thinking air hole position should go back to the original thread and lets stick to a standard genesis with a pyrex or quartz tube on different wicks. Post your results here so others can see and learn. A hundred pages on air hole is not for here. Start a air hole thread. Just want a place for every one to post results. I personally do not see any difference in where the air hole is on these but what do I know. Must have forgotten everything I learned in a masters in aerodynamic physic. Yes I am kind of a grumpy old man.
Quote: "The air hole needs to be in line with the wick", Why, Who says that is the law? I love breaking myths...
The only advantage of an air hole near the coil was extra heat in the TH and most call that a better TH.
Quote: "The air hole needs to be in line with the wick", Why, Who says that is the law? I love breaking myths...
The only advantage of an air hole near the coil was extra heat in the TH and most call that a better TH.
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@kwalka, try the bamboo, 4 threads , so far it is IMO the best on pyrex, and I agree, don't really see much over standard SS setup in this method except maybe for those who have issues with oxidizing. 4 days now on the Bamboo and it is still going good.
BJ,
I have cleaned up my posts that didn't meet the above criteria, and encourage others to do the same.
I started a new thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/356810-scubaqu-issues-ideas.html#post7965916
You should have 2' of FQ in the mail today
I am thinking air hole position should go back to the original thread and lets stick to a standard genesis with a pyrex or quartz tube on different wicks. Post your results here so others can see and learn. A hundred pages on air hole is not for here. Start a air hole thread. Just want a place for every one to post results. I personally do not see any difference in where the air hole is on these but what do I know. Must have forgotten everything I learned in a masters in aerodynamic physic. Yes I am kind of a grumpy old man.
Quote: "The air hole needs to be in line with the wick", Why, Who says that is the law? I love breaking myths...
The only advantage of an air hole near the coil was extra heat in the TH and most call that a better TH.
So tell us, where is your airhole on your Genesis? I know my vapor and throat hit are stale anywhere but in front of the wick. Why do you think everyone complains about their Chinese atty and the airhole not lining up with the wick?
As for the air turbulence, I have a Vivi RST (rebuildable) that is set up as a Genesis. The tank is semi-transparent all the up to the wick chamber. You can see the air swirling as you hit it. It is bending and swirling around the wick and up toward the mouthpiece, but I would not call it a vortex.
And if you don't think that this is part of the original design, think again; even Dan mentioned the problem of the cooling effect the airhole has. If you think a different thread for airholes is needed, you should quit talking about bamboo thread, too... that was not in the original design.
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BJ,
I have cleaned up my posts that didn't meet the above criteria, and encourage others to do the same.
I started a new thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/356810-scubaqu-issues-ideas.html#post7965916
You should have 2' of FQ in the mail today
That's a good idea, this thread is not for me...
Thanks bapgood: If it gets to Miami today or tomorrow, I should have it here in DR Monday. Looking forward to comparing the lag time between it and pyrex.
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