@ breaktru, you sure that it is 4.8 ohms, I can't get that high with 8 wraps 28g on 3mm.
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@ breaktru, you sure that it is 4.8 ohms, I can't get that high with 8 wraps 28g on 3mm.
So I just got some tubes in that my buddy Cloud Wizard sent me! As soon as I can cut them (which I'm planning to do with my cutting wheel dremel bit, will that work allright?), the first coil I'm gna wrap is a 5 wrap of 28g at 7.4v with a solid unoxidized 500 wick in the middle. Anyone tried anything like this and had positive results?
For those who may be struggling to get tight coils on their glass/FQ tubes - don't know if this will help as not tried it myself on glass having no FQ etc. - but when I wrapped my most recent coils I first 'semi-pre-formed my' kanthal right after I cut a length - basically I got a 4mm drill bit and trapped the wire between the smooth haft of the drill and my thumb quite tight, then pulled the wire through and towards me/angling against the drill (bit like curling gift ribbons <chortle>!), then repeated this several times until I got a good flat/single plane curve in the wire (not a tight one though - about 6 or 8 inches diameter to the curve is all).
Then I heated the wire (I used the gas stove) until it glowed, then slowly moved it further from the heat and let it cool very gradually as this seemed the best annealing protocol for this stuff to me (rapid cooling seemed to make it finish up harder than this way) - when I wound my coils afterwards I wound carefully with the curve by rotating the atty with pos. post pushed right down and found this really helped me get them tight.
Also I found wrapping one or two extra turns on the top end of the coil before situating it on the atty, then with tension on the wire, unwrapping those at the last minute before securing the kanthal to the +ve terminal (which I've started doing counter-clockwise), helped stop the eventual top coil turns from slackening off from the wick.
Like I said, not tried this on glass etc. yet but figured since it helped me keep very tight coils, couldn't hurt to post it anyway.
Cheers folks!
DV
Then I heated the wire (I used the gas stove) until it glowed, then slowly moved it further from the heat and let it cool very gradually as this seemed the best annealing protocol for this stuff to me (rapid cooling seemed to make it finish up harder than this way) - when I wound my coils afterwards I wound carefully with the curve by rotating the atty with pos. post pushed right down and found this really helped me get them tight.
Also I found wrapping one or two extra turns on the top end of the coil before situating it on the atty, then with tension on the wire, unwrapping those at the last minute before securing the kanthal to the +ve terminal (which I've started doing counter-clockwise), helped stop the eventual top coil turns from slackening off from the wick.
Like I said, not tried this on glass etc. yet but figured since it helped me keep very tight coils, couldn't hurt to post it anyway.
Cheers folks!
DV
It has been a week on this first setup. Bobas 100% VG, 635 mesh, 30g kanthal A1, 2.4 ohms at 5 volts. About two tanks fulls a day.
Still tastes great and is a good setup if you can tolerate the lag.
Still tastes great and is a good setup if you can tolerate the lag.
Whoa, this is pretty ambitious. I dont think anyone here has tried to put that much power into a coil on a glass tube yet. (or at least lived to post about it
) That will be some serious watt/heat density. In all my setups, I have never gone above 14.5 watts. Only because of hardware limitations. However I did put that power over a ~4mm long (3mm diameter) surface area of a pyrex tube with 28g.
A challenge here is the relatively slower thermal transfer through the glass. Scubaqu acts more like a pot of water on a stove, than a steak on the grill. It take time to get up to vaporization speed. So it will be interesting to see your results.
I assume if you do try this it this it will be in a safe, well controlled and isolated environment. You know your gonna get a lot of cautionary responses about thermal shock, glass shatter, etc. I would pulse power carefully.
How well does un-oxidized stainless wick? From observations in wick prep, it seems to wick better and better as it gets thoroughly oxidized, though I never have seen how an unflamed rolled wick absorbs juice. I just know it absorbs it much better after a couple of flaming's. Are you trying to avoid juice discoloration?
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Lab tests did not prove oxidized wicks ( wick better). Most lack of wicking is from machining oils. I wash all my mesh in detergent then boil in water with detergent and a second boil in just water. Even with oxidizing without washing, residues of the oil stay on the wick. In kerosine lamp burn test oxidized was not better than non oxidized. That is a topic for this thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html
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That's interesting. I've never washed or boiled my mesh, because I kinda assumed that torching the mesh would make that superfluous. But I had noticed you talking about boiling your mesh before so that was enough to get me intrigued since I know you don't subscribe to any genesis voodoo. Hmmm, I will definitely have to give that a shot the next time I make a wick.
That's interesting. I've never washed or boiled my mesh, because I kinda assumed that torching the mesh would make that superfluous. But I had noticed you talking about boiling your mesh before so that was enough to get me intrigued since I know you don't subscribe to any genesis voodoo. Hmmm, I will definitely have to give that a shot the next time I make a wick.
After handling 9 sheets to cut up for the co-op, my hands smelled like I just changed a head gasket. I was not even touching the mesh much at all, because it was so delicate. I boiled 2 pcs in a large pot yesterday and the residue was amazing from just 2 100 mm pcs.
Well I couldn't sleep last night, so I setup a FQ 3x2 inner x outer tube (I think) from TBinAZ. I managed to have the small one I saved, evaporate from my lap, in the middle of the setup (gremlins) so I used one that was a bit longer than I had intended... Great thing is the AGA T holes are just the same size as the tube, so I recessed it down as far as I needed, about half into the head.
The shorter I made the coil and tube, the better it worked. I get plenty of vapor but its not as thick as my phoenix. This could of course be due at least in large part to the fact that I drilled out the AGA's air hole from 1mm to 1/16th or 1.6mm approximately. I have to say though the vapor and throat hit are just fine on it. Again it is not the thick cloud I can pull from some atty setups, but it is still decent.
My two complaints with this vs the standard SS and coil only are as follows. With the air hole right at the top of how small I can get it, I dont get coils cooling no matter the hit it seems. The main issue I didn't expect is the drop in flavor... Its clean tasting, all I can taste is the juice usually, but if I take a hit off of this setup, and take a hit off of the SS and coil Dripping atty, its pretty clear how much flavor is lost. Now this is not a deal breaker, and I suspect we will find ways to amp up the flow of vapor and that may fix it, but it is quite noticeable when directly compared. The second issue is wicking... I will work on that more, but I filled the FQ tight with a solid wick, 500 mesh, and it keeps up great if I keep the device on its side with the wick down.... but it fights to keep up if I chain vape upgright for a few.
Yes there is a warmup time, but I dont think its as long as some are getting this way due to how short I made it. I would say about a 1s delay before it starts pumping out vapor, and by 3s its full speed, basically back to the puff then hit method, or just hit the button a moment before starting. Those are times from cold, a second hit after the first happens with a little less delay.
I will try to get some pics up this weekend, I hope we can find that next tweak, to make this a superior setup!
The shorter I made the coil and tube, the better it worked. I get plenty of vapor but its not as thick as my phoenix. This could of course be due at least in large part to the fact that I drilled out the AGA's air hole from 1mm to 1/16th or 1.6mm approximately. I have to say though the vapor and throat hit are just fine on it. Again it is not the thick cloud I can pull from some atty setups, but it is still decent.
My two complaints with this vs the standard SS and coil only are as follows. With the air hole right at the top of how small I can get it, I dont get coils cooling no matter the hit it seems. The main issue I didn't expect is the drop in flavor... Its clean tasting, all I can taste is the juice usually, but if I take a hit off of this setup, and take a hit off of the SS and coil Dripping atty, its pretty clear how much flavor is lost. Now this is not a deal breaker, and I suspect we will find ways to amp up the flow of vapor and that may fix it, but it is quite noticeable when directly compared. The second issue is wicking... I will work on that more, but I filled the FQ tight with a solid wick, 500 mesh, and it keeps up great if I keep the device on its side with the wick down.... but it fights to keep up if I chain vape upgright for a few.
Yes there is a warmup time, but I dont think its as long as some are getting this way due to how short I made it. I would say about a 1s delay before it starts pumping out vapor, and by 3s its full speed, basically back to the puff then hit method, or just hit the button a moment before starting. Those are times from cold, a second hit after the first happens with a little less delay.
I will try to get some pics up this weekend, I hope we can find that next tweak, to make this a superior setup!
Whoa, this is pretty ambitious. I dont think anyone here has tried to put that much power into a coil on a glass tube yet. (or at least lived to post about it
In all my setups, I have never gone above 14.5 watts. Only because of hardware limitations. However I did put that power over a ~4mm long (3mm diameter) surface area of a pyrex tube with 28g.
A challenge here is the relatively slower thermal transfer through the glass. Scubaqu acts more like a pot of water on a stove, than a steak on the grill. It take time to get up to vaporization speed. So it will be interesting to see your results.
I assume if you do try this it this it will be in a safe, well controlled and isolated environment. You know your gonna get a lot of cautionary responses about thermal shock, glass shatter, etc. I would pulse power carefully.
Don't worry, I've vaped with similar setups in my Odysseus before and had great results (well, great for me! but the th that it produced could probably melt gold fillings)! The most wattage I've pushed through a coil is 45.63W (6.16A), which was with a 1.2Ω coil (6/5 wraps of 28g kanthal) coil in a Penelope rebuildable part using the dripping mode Odysseus mouthpiece and the Penelope native GGTS base! At extreme wattages like that, I only vape using stacked MNKE IMR 18650s in a GGTS, which are rated to output 30A of continuous current. So from the standpoint of power delivery, I'm totally safe. As for the glass tubes ability to withstand the heat, I know that it takes temperatures much greater than 1700º (the average heat of most butane torches) to become malleable, and there's no way my coils are getting anywhere close to that!
I had some issues getting a clean break on the tubes last night. The cutting bit on the dremel splintered the top few inches of what I was trying to cut, so I'm going to get some practice with the 2.5mm OD stuff I have before I ruin anymore of my 3mm tubing. I'm thinking about torching the tubing until it's bright red, and then taking the dremel to it. Thoughts? Suggestions?
On another note, I have a theory that the 2.5mm tubing MIGHT actually work better than the 3mm! B/c there's more room in between the wick hole and the tube, you might be able to get a controlled amount of juice to flow up the outer wall of the glass and up to the coil (relying on horizontal flow rather than capillary action). It's going to take some major practice and experimentation to actually get a system like that vaping consistently, but I know I'll make it work.
Yes sir!
Hey RW, these tubes are so thin walled they will melt with a Butane torch. Haven't had one get soft from a coil yet but have definitely flame polished some ends and cut some longer tubes down with my Bernzomatic.
Yes, but it seals the end closed. I used the torch for cutting my 2.5od/2.2id tubes for you and Jim. For cleaner ends etching with your diamond wheel and snapping will work better. Takes a really light touch, the thin walls are pretty fragile. I'm going to try and use my torch with a tapered pick tool to flange the ends (trumpet shaped) because my pipette cutter doesn't cut as short as I'd like to try (I don't have a Dremel).
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Think I will try a Hotter 28g coil on it to see if it can be pushed to produce a bit more vape and flavor. I grabbed a couple juices last night from freedomsmokeusa which is here in town, and I just had to taste them properly out of my new AGA, so I put back in my old wick... After one day I had almost forgot just how much vapor the regular setup creates in comparison... Well here's to keeping up the revisions and here are a few pics of the first setup with the fq tube.
The pics are of a 30g setup with a 4/5 wrap testing out at about 2.0 ohm... so close, but just not quite there. Again the heatup delay is so so, maybe 1 full sec before vapor appears, peaking at around 3 seconds after starting from cold. It just doesn't taste or feel like a mesh/coil system unfortunately... and since the wick is so much smaller, it struggles to keep up. As you can see in one shot, the top coils start to glow as the wicking falls behind the heating.
I wonder if a 3mm inner diameter piece with the thinnest outer wall might solve the wicking at least by providing a full sized wick.
The pics are of a 30g setup with a 4/5 wrap testing out at about 2.0 ohm... so close, but just not quite there. Again the heatup delay is so so, maybe 1 full sec before vapor appears, peaking at around 3 seconds after starting from cold. It just doesn't taste or feel like a mesh/coil system unfortunately... and since the wick is so much smaller, it struggles to keep up. As you can see in one shot, the top coils start to glow as the wicking falls behind the heating.
I wonder if a 3mm inner diameter piece with the thinnest outer wall might solve the wicking at least by providing a full sized wick.
For those who may be interested, all the 10mm tubes laying on top of the cap no matter what wick, SS, Lydias, Hemp, and silica preformed reasonably well, none with longer tubes inserted into the caps worked worth a damn.
I find vapor production is best when tube is at least 1mm above plate/wickhole= vapor comes from bottom as well as top. I feel I may be repeating myself though.
I feel I may be repeating myself though.I find vapor production is best when tube is at least 1mm above plate/wickhole= vapor comes from bottom as well as top.
Most of my cuts are not flat and I put the slanted cut end of tubing on the bottom, this gives it some breathing room. Don't know how guys are still inserting the tube into the cap, that just gave me a volcano of juice and very little vaper. I use at least 8 wraps no matter what wire gauge as less gave much less vaper, better to improve lag with more voltage than with less wraps.
For some reason the hemp is working the best IMO on the ScubaQu, better than Lydia's and SS.
Finally got time to make a Hemp ScubaQu. I used 2 strands of 1mm cord and raised the tube ~1mm off the bottom surface. Vape production very good right out of the gate. Best power level was at ~10 watts. At 12 watts it started to cook the juice. With the dud (vs the AGA), best vape production for me was at a 90 degree angle to the wick.
So with Hemp wick, vape is lighter, but smoother and get very hot (Much hotter than the AGA). Taste is as good/better. Overall definitely vapable. Takes a few seconds to get going, but once you are up to temp, its chain vapable. I just cant get power hits like a coil-on-mesh setup. Cant say I'm gonna switch..yet.
I'm thinking that if we had two of these tubes firing at the same time, it could get to coil-on-mesh vapor production. Hmm...where's my drill...
3mm thin tube pyrex with a 28g coil at 1.6ohms:
So with Hemp wick, vape is lighter, but smoother and get very hot (Much hotter than the AGA). Taste is as good/better. Overall definitely vapable. Takes a few seconds to get going, but once you are up to temp, its chain vapable. I just cant get power hits like a coil-on-mesh setup. Cant say I'm gonna switch..yet.
I'm thinking that if we had two of these tubes firing at the same time, it could get to coil-on-mesh vapor production. Hmm...where's my drill...
3mm thin tube pyrex with a 28g coil at 1.6ohms:
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