NEW Dicodes Dani Box Mini

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jwbnyc

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Crazy German mod menus?

Reminds me of the HP and Texas Instrument calcs we used in college, Manual the size of a metropolitan phone book, if you didn’t use it ever day you forgot how, weird programmable hunks of plastic. Gives me the willies just thinking about it..
 

classwife

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Crazy German mod menus?

Reminds me of the HP and Texas Instrument calcs we used in college, Manual the size of a metropolitan phone book, if you didn’t use it ever day you forgot how, weird programmable hunks of plastic. Gives me the willies just thinking about it..


I never used them past the basic add, subtract, multiply & divide ! :lol:
 

GeekyGeezer

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Wake up in here !
Re-opening this as I have a question.

I just got my mini out to use again and I am seeing that when I put in a new fresh battery that the battery picture thing does not show it as a fully charged battery. Normal ?
It depends. I think the Dicodes board is extremely accurate in every respect and probably reads a charge better than a battery charger. I've seldom (never? Can't remember) seen any of mine show 4.2. Usually it's 3.9 with a low of maybe 3.7. That's held true using 3 different brands of battery chargers.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
OK, so the above is what I'd typed shortly after you posted your message. And apparently I was not smart enough to actually hit the post reply button because it's still sitting here mocking me.

It looks like you're good and had some great help. The only thing I have to add is that I have a slightly different understanding of what the two battery readings mean. I thought I read that the battery 0 was what the resting battery in the mod is currently at. And the battery L (as in load, the way I remember which is which) is the lowest point the battery dropped to during the last time the button was pressed. I'm not sure any othe board does both static and realtime battery readings. And thus an easy way to tell when a battery is getting old and has significant voltage sag.
 

Katdarling

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GG, as always, great info.

classy, should you wish to dig deeper, you can consult the user manual, Main Menu (Page 3).

(Yeah, GG, it's all your fault. Ya made me look it up.) ;)


If the user manual is not convenient, here tiz:
 

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ppeeble

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The original ProVari (2) always read the battery under load if you had an atty on it. Had to remove the atty to check the resting voltage... was sometimes scary to see the battery indicator showing 3.7v on a freshly charged cell. Especially if the mod cut out at 3.5v !!
 

MikeE3

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Not a mini but an 18650 Dani with a batt (no idea how old) fresh off a Dicodes charger. This is what shows when I press the fire button. As I recall I've always seen the batt icon with the small black bar on multiple full size 18650's and the mini's too.

My readings are:

Ub0 4.1
UbL 4.0

IMG_2833.jpg
 

rob33

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And now battery pic seems to be looking as it should for a barely used battery.

Quite odd...this is like the 5th or 6th battery replacement since Saturday and the first time it has looked "normal"
Classwife, clean the battery contacts in the device and 510 connection get off all oxidation on the pin. I was having issues with my 21700 and this cleared it up. Oh, I used an pencil eraser on the battery contacts and a small flathead screwdriver (or anything to scrape the pin back to shinny)on the 510 and alcohol and paper towel. I also cleaned my battery cap threads and replaced NOALOX



You may have knocked some of the oxidation off swapping batteries
 
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rob33

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Some of the issues I was having, decrease charge life, the device would lockup with a battery error code, even the battery cap would get HOT! I never cleaned the contacts in over two years almost continuous use. I bought new batteries thinkig the ones I had were two years old still the same issue. It finally dawned on me to give my Dani some love.
 

classwife

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Classwife, clean the battery contacts in the device and 510 connection get off all oxidation on the pin. I was having issues with my 21700 and this cleared it up. Oh, I used an pencil eraser on the battery contacts and a small flathead screwdriver (or anything to scrape the pin back to shinny)on the 510 and alcohol and paper towel. I also cleaned my battery cap threads and replaced NOALOX



You may have knocked some of the oxidation off swapping batteries



Yea, anything I pick up to use after its sat a while gets a good cleaning up.
I'm kinda obsessive about keeping stuff really clean :)
 

MikeE3

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Classwife, clean the battery contacts in the device and 510 connection get off all oxidation on the pin. I was having issues with my 21700 and this cleared it up. Oh, I used an pencil eraser on the battery contacts and a small flathead screwdriver (or anything to scrape the pin back to shinny)on the 510 and alcohol and paper towel. I also cleaned my battery cap threads and replaced NOALOX



You may have knocked some of the oxidation off swapping batteries

hmmm? were you around the threads way back when talking the pro's and con's of NOALOX. It's actually made for Aluminum to Aluminum connections, not for stainless steel.

I was using a lot of mech mods at the time. I put Noalox on the battery cap threads and measured a noticeable voltage sag. I tried it on another mech and same thing. So I spent the next hour removing it from those two mech's and all my Provari's.

Just saying. Your experience may be different. But I stopped using it.
 

DPLongo22

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hmmm? were you around the threads way back when talking the pro's and con's of NOALOX. It's actually made for Aluminum to Aluminum connections, not for stainless steel.

I was using a lot of mech mods at the time. I put Noalox on the battery cap threads and measured a noticeable voltage sag. I tried it on another mech and same thing. So I spent the next hour removing it from those two mech's and all my Provari's.

Just saying. Your experience may be different. But I stopped using it.

This is the equiv to Noalox but for stainless steel. Works great.



DeoxIT red contact cleaner followed by DeoxIT Gold contact conditioner is what I use.

Excellent choice too.
 
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