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forcedfuel50

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SO does this mean that you figured something out for the switch on the 10440????!!!!! I cant wait to get mine upgraded!!

Yep, rhodium plated P+ 10440 buttons! It's a Tiger in a kitten size package!! P+ 10440 should be released in about a week. Only thing is, don't kill the messenger, but i don't have any spare switches, they are all used up in the units (didn't have many of them), but i will be having more made up.
 

Vegastar

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Sounds like you already have the HD lock detent in alright!
I can't figure out how to switch it back out, and I don't want to damage anything. I got the bottom contact unscrewed, tried pushing through the hole but it won't budge. I can live with it, but changing it to a smoother lock would be nice.

Also, what's the deal with the IMR 18490s? I thought someone mentioned having a better running rate than the AW 18500 that were included? I'm not sure. I did just reconfigure it correctly, though. Was running 2 washers and no o-ring.

Sorry for all the stupid newbie questions :( after breaking a couple other PV tech with my tinkering, Id rather ask the master...
 

forcedfuel50

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I can't figure out how to switch it back out, and I don't want to damage anything. I got the bottom contact unscrewed, tried pushing through the hole but it won't budge. I can live with it, but changing it to a smoother lock would be nice.

Also, what's the deal with the IMR 18490s? I thought someone mentioned having a better running rate than the AW 18500 that were included? I'm not sure. I did just reconfigure it correctly, though. Was running 2 washers and no o-ring.

Sorry for all the stupid newbie questions :( after breaking a couple other PV tech with my tinkering, Id rather ask the master...

The Locking button spring detent is pressed in, you may not be able to switch it without pressing it out. I can do that for you worse case scenario.

Your have to run an oring under the battery or you risk shorting out. Set up is simple on the P+18500:

When running the AW IMR 18490, run two orings under the battery, One thick and one thin or two thick also works. Run 4 washers under the switch post.

When running the AW Protected 18500 run one thick oring and one washer under the switch post.

Hope that helps!

David
 

Vegastar

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The Locking button spring detent is pressed in, you may not be able to switch it without pressing it out. I can do that for you worse case scenario.

Your have to run an oring under the battery or you risk shorting out. Set up is simple on the P+18500:

When running the AW IMR 18490, run two orings under the battery, One thick and one thin or two thick also works. Run 4 washers under the switch post.

When running the AW Protected 18500 run one thick oring and one washer under the switch post.

Hope that helps!

David

Perfect. Understood on all. Not THAT worried about the locking switch, it's something I can adapt to. Turns out there was an o ring in the bottom... I was trying to put it up top :x. It's always fun learning new toys!
 

strprswpr

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Perfect. Understood on all. Not THAT worried about the locking switch, it's something I can adapt to. Turns out there was an o ring in the bottom... I was trying to put it up top :x. It's always fun learning new toys!

Don't break it like the Box....lol
 

strprswpr

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Perfect. Understood on all. Not THAT worried about the locking switch, it's something I can adapt to. Turns out there was an o ring in the bottom... I was trying to put it up top :x. It's always fun learning new toys!

Now that I think about it.....this is the perfect mod for you....bulletproof....lol
 

Vegastar

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Now that I think about it.....this is the perfect mod for you....bulletproof....lol
Exactly! I don't think there's a way I could break this thing and do any more than, like, 20 bucks worth of spare parts damage :p. and yes, I know not to mess with the rhodium except a soft cotton cloth.
 

atavanhalen

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Yep, rhodium plated P+ 10440 buttons! It's a Tiger in a kitten size package!! P+ 10440 should be released in about a week. Only thing is, don't kill the messenger, but i don't have any spare switches, they are all used up in the units (didn't have many of them), but i will be having more made up.
Ugghhh!!!!!!!!!! I want the upgrades! Maybe I will just clean up my p10 and p16 to finance a new one. Do you have a guess on when you might start doing upgrades? Maybe you could make some type of list and work from through it? Just a suggestion.
 

itztoxic

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I'll have the PrecisePlus 16340 and PrecisePlus 10440 available hopefully by the end of next week.

I thought I was just about done, but I'm definitely going to get at least one 16340 to go with the rest of my Precise family. :D

Vapes20.jpg
 

skinnee

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Looks great, but why do you need the adapter? Are you having airflow problems? If so, most feeders you can slide the tank up just a bit on the atomizer or you could slot the bottom cap of your tank easy enough, especially if it's a plastic one.

Maybe some tank manufacturers will hear this and start slotting the bottom caps of their tanks!

Yes, exactly... I can't get the tank down close to the cap like strprswpr, airflow is just too low. One tank/CE2 combo allows me not to use an adapter... ah, the woes of CE2/Fluxo tanks, it's a love/hate relationship.

To note, this is a problem on all of my PV's, not just the P+.
 
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artyoh

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Yes, exactly... I can't get the tank down close to the cap like strprswpr, airflow is just too low. One tank/CE2 combo allows me not to use an adapter... ah, the woes of CE2/Fluxo tanks, it's a love/hate relationship.

To note, this is a problem on all of my PV's, not just the P+.

The other problem I had, is that the tank starts to unthread when I'm carrying my 18500 around in a pocket. I found a thin sheet of rubber adhesive-backed tape I had lying around and used an exacto knife to cut out three small pieces, which I then arranged in a pattern like this:radiation-symbol.gif on the bottom of my tank. It's just thick enough to allow for airflow, the friction of the rubber keeps the tank from unthreading, and you can't really even see it.
 

snork

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I cant imagine the lock being any harder to activate. I wonder if it was switched out before I got it?
I got to thinking...when I first got the P+ I had a little trouble with the lock. Once I figured out to push it entirely from the side (not catching any of the top edge of the slider) it worked great. Any downward pressure on the slider makes it difficult to move. Could that be what you're experiencing?
 

forcedfuel50

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Yes, exactly... I can't get the tank down close to the cap like strprswpr, airflow is just too low. One tank/CE2 combo allows me not to use an adapter... ah, the woes of CE2/Fluxo tanks, it's a love/hate relationship.

To note, this is a problem on all of my PV's, not just the P+.

Take a dremel and a cut off wheel and you can slot the bottom that tank in a jiffy :)
 
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