Ahahadoes that mean the time has come for some proper puff tutorials?![]()
a usable amount of vapor is available
But as a vapor, I am always looking for a better, safer, vape
So while trying to get caught up reading all the new posts in this thread I didn't pay much attention to the fact that my tank went completely empty. Of coarse nothing bad happened, it just stopped producing vapor (DNA)
MOST of the people reading through this thread have grasped the basic concepts of what little new information we have, and what questions it does and does not answer. However, there have been a few posts, in this thread, of people who are now scared to use their vape gear that they were happy using before they read this thread. That is also something that worries me, and is why I've posted the recap of what was actually presented a few times.
The MOST important thing is that vaping is safer than smoking, period. We don't really have enough information one way or the other to say more than that definitively, though the information we have is pointing towards lower coil temps being safer than higher coil temps.
Actually, while that may ultimately be true, we don't know that, and we certainly don't know the parameters of what would make that a true statement.
What Atomizer do you use?
If you want, I can send you some Pre-Made 316L SS Coils and some Muji Cotton.
Zoidman, that's a very kind gesture, but it isn't necessary. After all, I do know how to wind a coil, and I want to be able to do these things for myself. Besides, I don't mind the winding so much as the installation, just a fiddly thing.
Right now I'm using a Kayfun mini V3 Tobeco clone atomizer atop a Provari set at 10.3 watts. I can go lower, but don't really care to go above 10.5 watts. Kanthal A1, 28AWG, 7/8 wraps, comes out to about 1.7 ohms. I'm guessing I just wind the SS coil the same way? So then, when I get that same size coil installed, I can vape it on TC or VW just by switching the Pico settings?
What I don't know is what kind of SS to get. 316L? 4...something? Others? Is one "safer" than the rest? Does one perform better than the rest? I do realize some have chromium, nickel, etc., so I don't know which to get. Should it come from Temco or Unkamen, or does that matter? I know nothing at all about SS (except skillets, lol). Does it need to be annealed first? Installed and heated to a glow? I guess I'm just making this hard in my own mind, but it's something I'm not familiar with.
Thanks for the coil offer anyway, Zoidman.![]()
I know yours is a different tank, but I did an experiment with 28g SS wire, 8 wraps with 12watts and 360F in a Toptank RBA in TC mode and it vaped just fine for me. I usually build 28g kanthal with 8wraps on my VW device with the Toptank RBA.Right now I'm using a Kayfun mini V3 Tobeco clone atomizer atop a Provari set at 10.3 watts. I can go lower, but don't really care to go above 10.5 watts. Kanthal A1, 28AWG, 7/8 wraps, comes out to about 1.7 ohms. I'm guessing I just wind the SS coil the same way? So then, when I get that same size coil installed, I can vape it on TC or VW just by switching the Pico settings?
That's what I didn't get a first. I thought that because of the ohm difference, I'd have to start sub-ohming. Learned so much in this thread. I've heard people say ohms doesn't really matter in a regulated device, and starting to understand that now.The only difference especially when building your own is really in losing the "I have to have x.xx ohms" and making sure your mode is properly set up for the metal type you're using (SS in this case, or if you want to get fancy go into the special "memory" mode and set a TCR of 92, the typical number used) set a max wattage, then just adjust the temp to your preference.
Until in depth studies are done, any of the SS alloys currently available will work and should be safe. I'd suggest SS316L since that is the TCR profile generally used by mod manufacturers, apparently. I use Temco 316L and it doesn't need to be cleaned, tempered, dry burned or anything else. It winds quite nicely so making a coil is as easy as kanthal. I would say that dry burning the coil may not be a good idea, but that is pure conjecture on my part. I will also say that with the low cost of wire, and how easy it is to make a coil and install it, the trouble of trying to clean, really clean, a dry burned coil just isn't worth that work.
First of all, this industry has been self regulating from its inception just fine, thank you very much. Thanks to this self-regulation, via discussions like this one and many, many others, vaping is much better and safer than it was in 2007 when it first began commercially available. Nobody was looking out for us and our safety--we had to do it ourselves. And yet, every time somebody brings up a subject of a possible danger associated with vaping, sooner or later they are inevitably attacked for "doing FDA's job for them" or spreading "BT/BP propaganda." Can we just stop doing this? Once and for all. In 2009 Kate raised some questions about diacetyl, later confirmed by Kurt and others. Kurt warned us about risks associated with vaping eliquids containing cinnamaldehyde, oil based flavorings and some questionable sweeteners. Mooch tests batteries and lets us know which ones are safe to use. We discussed the use of crystalline silica as filler in certain coil heads (gone), iffy plastics used for tanks (gone or replaced with better plastics and glass), mod safety (believe it or not, some early mods were made without venting holes--fixed). I could go on, but I hope you get the picture.
Most (if not all) of the great improvements and inventions in vaping started on ECF and other vaping forums all over the world. Big Chinese manufacturers learn from our modders and incorporate their ideas into their products all the time. Everything you're using today was invented either on this forum (or similar forums in Germany, Greece, Russia, England, etc.) by fellow vapers who were not satisfied with the hardware they were using and were hell bent on creating that perfect vape. Carto tanks (thanks, Billy), fillerless clearomizers (thanks Badkolo, Billy, Martinez), RBAs (thanks Raidy--Raidy is a German modder who was also a member here; Imeothanasis--a greek modder; and thank you, our Russian friends for Kayfun and ArcticFox), variable voltage and variable wattage batteries (thank you, modders, inventors, Evolv, ProVape), and now the DNA 40, 60, 75. Why do you think China switched from silica rope to cotton? Because our modders and vapers who use RBAs have been experimenting with different wicking materials--everything from stainless steel mesh, silica rope, ecowool, hemp, alpaca wool, cotton balls, rayon (cellucotton) to Japanese organic cotton.
We didn't know much, but we asked questions, we contacted people who did know--our resident chemists and materials engineers and electricians. Many commercial juice makers started here, as fellow ECF rank and file DIY enthusiasts. And we enlisted real experts, like our favorite cardiologist Dr. F., who is also a member here.
Still have doubts? Behold a carto tank prototype invented in 2010 by our beloved friend Billy (BR5495), may he rest in peace.
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Off my soapbox now. Sorry for the rant.
So while using 100% VG we notice:
So while using less than 100% VG we notice:
- a usable amount of vapor is available long before reaching the boiling point. This could be due to A) the VG sample is not 100% pure (likely) or B) liquids can give off vapor lower than the boiling point (quite possible) or C) somewhere on the coil it is VG boiling point temperature. (might be)
- Changing the coil temperature effects the volume of vapor produced. Lower=less, higher=more.
Here's where I'd like to introduce a theory of my own. We've focused much of the discussion on the coil<>juice interface contact area for temperature and vapor production however I believe what happens when the coil is hotter than the boiling point of the juice is that the heat starts vaporizing fluid INSIDE the wick and at this point 1-2 things might happen:
- Setting our TC device to the theory boiling point gives off very little vapor.
- Much like above, higher=more and lower=less vapor production
So the KFv5 I setup last night with NiFe flat wire and filled the tank with 66/33 (VG/H2O) is vaping nicely at 350F. Much higher than the theory boiling point but less than the temperature that 100% VG might release noxious gases. Is it better or worse? We don't know. It is still fun to experiment.
- effective coil/wick diameter decrease due to the heat 'reaching into' the wick to vaporize juice
- while #1 might be true the decreased diameter actually creates a vaporizing 'zone' which has a larger area than the coil<>juice interface hence more area more vapor
We do know that temperature matters and harm REDUCTION (as compared to smoking) matters. At least to me it does. YMMV.
(disclaimer: posted by a long time mostly exclusive TC user)
Zoidman, that's a very kind gesture, but it isn't necessary. After all, I do know how to wind a coil, and I want to be able to do these things for myself. Besides, I don't mind the winding so much as the installation, just a fiddly thing.
Right now I'm using a Kayfun mini V3 Tobeco clone atomizer atop a Provari set at 10.3 watts. I can go lower, but don't really care to go above 10.5 watts. Kanthal A1, 28AWG, 7/8 wraps, comes out to about 1.7 ohms. I'm guessing I just wind the SS coil the same way? So then, when I get that same size coil installed, I can vape it on TC or VW just by switching the Pico settings?
What I don't know is what kind of SS to get. 316L? 4...something? Others? Is one "safer" than the rest? Does one perform better than the rest? I do realize some have chromium, nickel, etc., so I don't know which to get. Should it come from Temco or Unkamen, or does that matter? I know nothing at all about SS (except skillets, lol). Does it need to be annealed first? Installed and heated to a glow? I guess I'm just making this hard in my own mind, but it's something I'm not familiar with.
Thanks for the coil offer anyway, Zoidman.![]()