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Yay huge succes the coil work and fire really smooth, and taste is atleast pretty good with cotton included. Vapor production is good. I can see great promise but im limited to prebuilt clapton build with no proper tools and gear. But it doesnt leak at all that was my fear. Not much skill needed to wick prebuilt rba but im still very happy and building confidense. Really nice surprise it fires so smooth, no leaks and performance is pretty good. Not like powerfull stock triple and max mesh coils ofc but nice for first time. Hooray this is the begining.
Spamming my thread. Wicked it better and taste is really strong now. Very impressive, flavor is now strong as mesh coil. Vapor production is very nice. Im no longer dependant of stock coils. Now. Im really exited for my other mails to arrive i get tools, wires and all kind of different prebuilt claptons. Rba is really powerfull indeed. Ofc im not a real builder yet, only wick the claptons provided, but i understand and calculate ohms law everything is in control and im ready for more. Im so happy everything worked better than exepted thanks everyone i surely will be back asking for more help
@Vilbourne I'm concerned you may still not have got the gist of what I posted about calculating amp draw on a regulated device.
The resistance of the coil is irrelevant. Regulated mods separate the input and output voltage, in other words they separate the battery from the atomizer. The only relevant values are the wattage, and the remaining voltage in the battery.
As the battery voltage falls, the mod will increase the amp draw to maintain the selected wattage. You need to know the amp draw at full charge, and when the battery is discharged as this value will be the highest. Most regulated mods are about 90% efficient, so you will also need to factor this loss into your calculations as it will marginally increase the amount of amperage pulled from the battery.
To find the amp draw use I=P/V (-10%)
Eg.
60w divided by 4.2v equals 14.3 divided by 0.9 = 15.9 amps
60w divided by 3.4v equals 17.6 divided by 0.9 = 19.6 amps
So in this instance with a single battery using 60 watts you need a battery with a 20 amp CDR.
With multi battery devices, simply calculate the amp draw then divide by the number of batteries.
The resistance of the coil is irrelevant. Regulated mods separate the input and output voltage, in other words they separate the battery from the atomizer. The only relevant values are the wattage, and the remaining voltage in the battery.
As the battery voltage falls, the mod will increase the amp draw to maintain the selected wattage. You need to know the amp draw at full charge, and when the battery is discharged as this value will be the highest. Most regulated mods are about 90% efficient, so you will also need to factor this loss into your calculations as it will marginally increase the amount of amperage pulled from the battery.
To find the amp draw use I=P/V (-10%)
Eg.
60w divided by 4.2v equals 14.3 divided by 0.9 = 15.9 amps
60w divided by 3.4v equals 17.6 divided by 0.9 = 19.6 amps
So in this instance with a single battery using 60 watts you need a battery with a 20 amp CDR.
With multi battery devices, simply calculate the amp draw then divide by the number of batteries.
An 18650 is fully charged at 4.2 volts, and can be considered discharged at around 3.4 volts. The voltage that your mod cuts off at will vary depending on make and model.
The best way to ascertain this for your particular device is to run the mod until it cuts off, then put the batteries on a charger. Make note of what voltage they are at, adjust your calculations accordingly, and potentially your wattage level and battery choice.
The best way to ascertain this for your particular device is to run the mod until it cuts off, then put the batteries on a charger. Make note of what voltage they are at, adjust your calculations accordingly, and potentially your wattage level and battery choice.
I agree with everything @sonicbomb just posted. This isn't Ohms law stuff, it's regulated mod stuff. Again, the greatest draw is at the cutoff voltage 3.2-3.4 V for an average mod.
Also, how did you decide on your use will be at 200W? The coil is "rated" (which in itself is of little use from most manufacturers) 90-320W but you picked 200W? What if it's better at 150W? Maybe even 120W? Could be 230W. You won't know until you try. The 320W listing is utterly misleading. I can virtually guarantee if you could find a way to hit it with that wattage you'd have a burnt coil within 2 seconds of use. Don't be impressed by ratings or numbers. Enjoy the quality of the vape at whatever wattage works best for you and do the math above to be sure you aren't in a zone where you're asking the batteries, and your board, of doing too much, resulting in decreased lifespan of what you're spending your money on.
Also, how did you decide on your use will be at 200W? The coil is "rated" (which in itself is of little use from most manufacturers) 90-320W but you picked 200W? What if it's better at 150W? Maybe even 120W? Could be 230W. You won't know until you try. The 320W listing is utterly misleading. I can virtually guarantee if you could find a way to hit it with that wattage you'd have a burnt coil within 2 seconds of use. Don't be impressed by ratings or numbers. Enjoy the quality of the vape at whatever wattage works best for you and do the math above to be sure you aren't in a zone where you're asking the batteries, and your board, of doing too much, resulting in decreased lifespan of what you're spending your money on.
Hey all thanks for help. Im not decided to go for 200w i just look it as a challenge so i can learn to build anything. But it is possible with even pre installed smok rba deck just not a good experience. I think becouse of my friend always tell how wattage is the most important thing he uses 225w and is aiming for 300w i just begin to see he is wrong again like everything he taught me and how his gear performs.. Now im begining to aim for lower wattage with great performance i love one setup of batteries lasting a day.
I received the wotofo profile rda! I love to build on it the tools provided are perfect for the job, bending the mesh coil etc, i got it perfect on the second try. Love the spring loaded deck it pushes the cotton so it always sit tight, the airflow is perfect and vape is so smooth and flavors are perfect. I can feel good about myself building something right. And only 57w is needed for big vape and awesome taste. Love the mouthpiece and shiny golden appereance. Now im waiting geekvape gbox for squanking but thats should be easy to install
Btw aint rda supposed to be saturated thru mouthpiece so i dont have to take anything off?
The performance is spot on, but i have to give credit for high end subohms tanks, even they need much higher wattage, but performance and flavors are very much comparable to rda.
I received the wotofo profile rda! I love to build on it the tools provided are perfect for the job, bending the mesh coil etc, i got it perfect on the second try. Love the spring loaded deck it pushes the cotton so it always sit tight, the airflow is perfect and vape is so smooth and flavors are perfect. I can feel good about myself building something right. And only 57w is needed for big vape and awesome taste. Love the mouthpiece and shiny golden appereance. Now im waiting geekvape gbox for squanking but thats should be easy to install
Btw aint rda supposed to be saturated thru mouthpiece so i dont have to take anything off?
The performance is spot on, but i have to give credit for high end subohms tanks, even they need much higher wattage, but performance and flavors are very much comparable to rda.
How come?i havent found anythind bad from reviews or from people who bought it, should serve good for squanking and is 2 battery mod so have large headroom to 200w and super battery life with low wattage wotofo profile. Only some information say wattage mode lowest coil is 0.12ohm but other say its 0.05 if i remember correct. Even if its 0.12 i dont see the point becouse battery minium is 0.12ohm.
Nice job on the Profile! Always make sure that cotton is touching every single area of that coil. Dry hits on mesh are easy to have happen and nasty as hell. That's why the setup with the ceramic block to push upwards was done to reduce the chances of that but it can still happen.
Yes, you can drip right through the DT onto the coil and wick. I wouldn't just squeeze the bottle super hard and dump enough in to end up leaking, but the point of a large diameter DT like that is to make it easy to drip without pulling the cap. If you squonk that's obviously not an issue.
Yes, you can drip right through the DT onto the coil and wick. I wouldn't just squeeze the bottle super hard and dump enough in to end up leaking, but the point of a large diameter DT like that is to make it easy to drip without pulling the cap. If you squonk that's obviously not an issue.
Thank you
first time i was getting dry hit but i wicked it badly now i learned and im so happy i think there is no return. I drip it thru mouthpiece and only some drips at time and i can change flavors so easily, and the taste is so deep and super smooth. I think this will save me ejuice aswell. Batteries will last so much longer than hitting 120w mesh on prince or 105 with valyrian, and im not married to certain flavor for many hours at time.Im so glad i found the confidense to try rda, nice little hobby to build and the effort paid off greatly.
Thank you
Im so glad i found the confidense to try rda, nice little hobby to build and the effort paid off greatly.
There's different builds for different people. Lower wattage means longer battery life before charging. Higher wattage yields huge clouds, but not necessarily more satisfaction with the vape. Some of us just wanted to replicate smoking, get the nic, and kiss cigarettes goodbye. Others are into cloud competitions and impressing their friends. It's all about quitting the smoking habit, IMO.
Good luck with your first try at building coils! It looks like you have studied the theory and understand that lithium cells aren't so forgiving if you push them too hard.
I have one. The ergonomics of it is terrible. The temp control on it is horrible at best. The worst thing is the battery door comes loose and discharges the batteries unequally. The squonk bottle is plastic with a solid metal tube down the center which causes the bottle to split. I've gone through 3 bottles before I just quit using it. I haven't used it very much to begin with.
I would recommend a Rage or a Basium. Like I said the Gbox is a mistake and a waste of money.
Well that doesnt sound too good, i hope i get better experience from it, but glad im not too dependent on it, as i dont have to redrip so much as i was afraid off. I was only hoping that the squank system works and the power delivery dont have horrible ramp up time. I would use it while driving but ill see if its any good.
Squonking can be great, but not all squonkers are. Best advice, watch YT videos for the pictures and features (and wicking methods for different tanks) but take the recommendations with like a pound of salt. If you see something that looks appealing head back here. There's bound to be a thread on the mod or tank, and you're going to get more informative opinions. Not that you'll end up agreeing with every one (lots of folks once raved about a tank I ended up not liking much) but they'll be more reliable.
Same for things like safe vaping. This place is sort of self policed so the info is going to be reliable, and when it comes to safety that trumps your local B&M (usually, some shops are great and willing to educate you) or friends.
Same for things like safe vaping. This place is sort of self policed so the info is going to be reliable, and when it comes to safety that trumps your local B&M (usually, some shops are great and willing to educate you) or friends.
Yea i have realised the value of this place and also try to share my experiences of course. I will give honest update when the geekvape Gbox arrive, i was happily waiting becouse reviews(once again learned not to to be trusted) and buyers gave good scores, why i didnt seach here first /:
Btw if the squank bottle is easily broken why cant you buy squank bottle from different manufacturer and fit it in geekvape? But i try to first survive with the ones provided. Glad it comes with 2 so when the first breaks i can start looking for solution. Why im so adhd so i make hasty decissions. But i like dripping i can switch between flavors so easily, but while driving i need to use subohm tank if the gbox is a total let down.
There is one problem which have no solution. When i go for a walk and outside temperature is like - 15 like atm vapes will start giving dry hits pretty soon. I quess the eliquid get thicker and no longer saturate cotton.
Btw if the squank bottle is easily broken why cant you buy squank bottle from different manufacturer and fit it in geekvape? But i try to first survive with the ones provided. Glad it comes with 2 so when the first breaks i can start looking for solution. Why im so adhd so i make hasty decissions. But i like dripping i can switch between flavors so easily, but while driving i need to use subohm tank if the gbox is a total let down.
There is one problem which have no solution. When i go for a walk and outside temperature is like - 15 like atm vapes will start giving dry hits pretty soon. I quess the eliquid get thicker and no longer saturate cotton.
The Gbox has the same bottles as the Kanger Dripbox. They are proprietary bottles. You can take the mod apart and cut the metal tube if you want to use regular bottles. I haven't found a solution yet for the crappy battery door.
That's what I do. When I'm on the go I use a squonk setup. When I'm at home or work I use a dripper. Sometimes when I'm on the go I'll use an RDTA.
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