Now I want a 5v :(

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Dwindacatcher

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Coworker of mine saw I was using my pv today and we talked for a bit. He showed me his pv and I took a toot from something called a techmod. Said it was 5v and now I want a 5v >_< had tasty vapor kretek in it, which I find horrid in my RIva but was actually pretty good in his. Sigh...

So now I am wondering what the best way to get one is. Diy or ordering a premaid one. Thoughts?
 

BiffRocko

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It's actually the Tekk Mod. It's built from a Tekkeon Tekcharge MP1800 portable charging unit.

The Tekk mod is not complicated, but you are working in really tight tolerances. The original unit is pretty packed in there and you're squeezing an atty connector and a switch in a case that wasn't designed to hold them. It would be very easy to screw it up and have an unusable unit.

That said, it's a really simple mod. You're basically grabbing 5v right off the USB output port and routing it to the atty connector.

I really enjoyed my Tekk mod before I accidentally fried it. I'd easily get 2 days of vaping without a charge and the battery was still at 33% left.

Here's a few resources to decide if you want to tackle the project yourself or buy a premade unit.

Tutorial: The Tekk Mod - Vapers Forum

 

Cronus6

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They really don't look all "that" hard to make.... I've been considering that. Also been considering Ken's box mods one mentioned above (nice price point!). And I heard good things about.

Or I could just cruise down to the Keys and try and swipe the above mentioned GLV2 which I REALLY want but can't quite justify the money for.

/me goes back to being jealous and sucking on his Riva....
 

AttyPops

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They work. I use their parts for a 5v box mod (std 3.0 ohm atties) with no issues. Not too bad. If you get the parts individually, you can select the mosfet and the button and such. Just an option.

I have heard of some complaining that the way they wired it... it can self-activate in bright sunlight. But if you don't wire the LED to the mosfet activation pin, it isn't an issue.

Good work on the modding and soldering. Keep it up.

As long as you are modding, why not order a 2.0 amp or more wall wart and make yourself a 5v passthrough to experiment with?

1) Button
2) Eclosure (1xAA box?)
3) Atty Connector
4) Old USB Cable
5) 2.0 amp or better wall wart
6) LED + resistor optional.

Good Luck!
 
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Dwindacatcher

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six

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the Tekk mod is a beast. Two places have them in stock for about 128 bucks. Electronicstix and vaporgalaxy. Now and then, Nhaler has a VV tekk. -- The parts to buil your own run about 65 bucks. I bought a couple of tekkeons from newegg for about 50 bucks each a couple of weeks ago. i found an aluminum project box that will hold the tekk guts perfectly on allelectronics.com. So, when i get around to it, I'm going to build a regular tekk and an aluminum tekk.

There are lots of nice 5.0v mods out there. As mentioned, it's inexpensive to get in to a 5.0v box mod from Kalamazoo or Madvapes. - I got a good deal on a Kalamazoo triple v 5.0v mod in the classifieds the other day. New from Kalamazoo, they're 75 bucks plus batteries if you don't have any 18350s and plus shipping, but all told it's less than a hundred bucks if you need batts and a charger. I've only been using the one I got for about a day. I really like it. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.

Another 5.0v to think about is a 5.0v bottom feeder from Old Goat. His new design takes a couple of 14500s instead of 14250s. Fifty bucks shipped for a 5.0v bottom feeder is a screaming deal.
 

AttyPops

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Check out the saber touch they have 5 volt now can add high power option so it fires dc cartos.

That's a good point. You may wish to dig around the modder's forum and ask about amps and triple coil cartos and mosfets. These new double and triple coil things make me nervous with mosfets. MV sells a 5 amp mosfet, but it doesn't have a control pin. 3.0 amps is max with pin, I think. And you'd probably want a heat sink on it. Ask around and research a bit if you DIY. I use 3.0 ohm stuff at 5 v so I haven't given it as much experimentation as I would like.

Example.... 5 volts at 1.5 ohm dual coil is 3.33333 amps. But it's not continuous. So IDK. In "the ole days" you ran 5 volts with standard ohm stuff (like 3.0 ohms). The DCs and the TC's too I think, are around 1.5 ohms so double the amps.
 
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six

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Example.... 5 volts at 1.5 ohm dual coil is 3.33333 amps. But it's not continuous. So IDK. In "the ole days" you ran 5 volts with standard ohm stuff (like 3.0 ohms). The DCs and the TC's too I think, are around 1.5 ohms so double the amps.

A couple of things to consider: First, the 1.5/1.6 ohm DCs and TCs are only that when empty. Add .2 or so ohms when full of juice. The other thing to consider makes an even bigger difference to the amp pull. There are very, very few devices and/or batteries out there that can run these at a loaded voltage of 5.0 volts or more. - The ni-mh batts charged to 5.7v produce a loaded voltage on the DCs of about 4.4v. the lifep04 6.0v battery sets (off the charger producing 7.0v unloaded) produce a loaded voltage of 4.9 volts. I've tried a couple of 5.0v regulated PVs and the one that holds a pair of high drain 18350s could push a loaded voltage of 4.6. The one that took a couple of 14500s could produce a loaded voltage of 4.3v.

So, even the highest producing set up I've seen is still pulling under 3 amps. I would be interested to find out what the loaded voltage was for Stownz when he hit the DCs with an 8.0v set up... That might get them well above 3 amps, but I've not personally seen something like that.
 
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