When I do my coils and install them, I have no change in the resistance. Maybe a bad twist on the wires?
I will post some pics of mine the next time I build one. Lately I have been using a 1.6 dual coil set up. Using 2 strands of wick,
unbraided after wrapping and placed in the ceramic. so the ends of the wick go into the channels. After I vape it a few times I need to open the juice control all the way to supply enough liquid to the coil.
Really hope you figure this out, once you do, you will be good to go.
PM me your address as well and I'll send you one of my dual coils.
Just throwing my 2 cents in on the silver wire.
Can't help you with your issue, but here's where I bought my silver wire.
Beaducation: 30g Sterling Silver, round, dead soft, wire - 10 ft [SW30]
Funky, as another means of troubleshooting your problem, I would wrap a fresh coil around 2 strands of stock wick (aim for 4 wraps), meter it, and then install it like you normally would, but refrain from putting the tank on and just try dripping into the short mode mouthpiece with the juice control closed for now. I don't suspect that your coil is the problem here, I think it's more likely that you're experiencing wicking issues if you're getting burnt taste less than a day into vaping on a new coil.
I agree with everyone else that the resistance of your coils seem unusually high for 32g wire, so I think it's safe to assume you have 34g wire (could be 36, but 34 is more likely because that is what Imeo sent out with the first few batches of ody wire to Bruce). Your coils look fine, but going forward, I wouldn't bother heat-treating the wick, but rather heat up the resistance wire with a cigarette lighter (before twisting it with the nr wire, hold your lighter so the tip of the flame engulfs the wire and move the lighter from end to end on the strand until each section of wire starts to glow orange before moving on).
If you have better results with dripping, I'd continue dripping until you've gone through at least a couple of ml through it to ensure that the wick and coil are fully broken in, and then try it with a tank. If you have the same issues with dripping, switch juices and repeat the process.
If you need more R wire, feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll set you up with 32, 34, and 36g kanthal, I've got tons of it on deck.
Thanks again guys, this thread is rich with info. I have the stock O'ring in place - and I'm definitely a Klutz when it comes to O'rings as that was the issue with the UFS. I think the vacuum could be the issue as I always ensure everything is very tight and heavily lubed. I will try it without next fill and keep everybody posted. I have been getting a lot of leaking recently too. Would that be caused by the vacuum or lack thereof?
I had solved the leaking a couple weeks ago but it has crept back. I may go back to putting the grounding wire in the channel of the GGTS base again and just tightening the nut around nothing, as that worked great for me. The wrap-around that Imeo explained in the video just never worked for me.
Also, just to confirm, I use the GGTS base exclusively.
Ok, glad to hear you're still sticking with it! I've been stalking this thread all afternoon to see if you managed to resolve your problems! Because we know your coil isn't the issue, you don't need to keep remaking them. When you finally fill up the tank ( use short mode for now!), take a dry pull to gauge the draw and ensure that it isn't flooded, close AC ring all the way (like you would on UFS), fully close juice control (do this before putting the tank section on to make sure there are no gaps and that you're able to unscrew the mouthpiece without also unscrewing the connector nut), thread on tank section and the top cap (but leave off uppermost o-ring and the small top cap that secures the o-ring), slowly fill the tank with a syringe (juice bottle works fine, but the rig will let you measure out exactly 3ml), Vaseline up your oring, slide it on so one end is pushed down all the way and the other is raised slightly so the tank section isn't totally sealed yet, then you're ready to slide on the final top cap and quickly screw it on (not too tight though, think UFSv2)! After that, open the AC and take a dry pull to see if it flooded. If it's not flooded, take a few pulls until you can tell that the coil is drying out and then open up the juice control. I start with 1/2 a turn, but you might want to go ahead and open it a full turn. If you're still having issues with getting it to wick, close the AC by around 75% and take a dry drag while pulsing the button (I've found that can help potentiate capillary actions). Last step is to happily vape away on the absolute BEST pv and rebuildable atomizer in the game right now!
Very well put Rick..
Thank you Keighles, I do what I can to help out, but I haven't been doing enough of that around here lately, so I'm trying to get back into the swing of things!
You're doing a bang-up job dude. That big post was excellent. I have to ask though. What if it does start to leak with the juice control closed? Do I have to rebuild it? I have been disconnecting it from the GGTS, opening the top cap and blowing through the bottom post while tightening the top cap. This solves it every time, I'm sure I'm just creating a vacuum though because when I refill it, it usually happens again.
Ok to try and prove my point I have this I posted a few days ago on a different thread. It is a different setup but a coil is a coil and this one metered out at 1.5 ohms. Compare it to yours (R wire is 0.16mm) and think how can yours be almost double the resistance? Something is wrong pal.
Untitled by CptSteve, on Flickr