I have nothing GG besides the ody. Nothing nada no mini GG no stealth I don't even know what I am talking about tbh.
Odysseus official
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Aluminium GGTS and Nickel Plated are the 2 previous 'editions' of the GGTS. The current one that is in production will be the Stainless Steel 'editions'. So what you see at COV right now will only be Stainless Steel version.
Aluminium or Nickel Plated GGTS will only be available on the Classifieds if there's people letting go theirs.
Aluminium or Nickel Plated GGTS will only be available on the Classifieds if there's people letting go theirs.
ok thanks lonely. I am really a bit scared now the ody is all I was looking for but if I can't fix the airy draw I may be screwed big time and have to either buy a GGTS or sell it and that would be terrible.
Does anyone know of any way to get a hint stiffer draw on my provari? can the draw change when using an actual atty in long mode? if I change something on the coil? anything?
Thanks guys
Does anyone know of any way to get a hint stiffer draw on my provari? can the draw change when using an actual atty in long mode? if I change something on the coil? anything?
Thanks guys
To add on about the pricing. The $232 you see at COV is before the discount so after the discount should be around $220.
As for the parts, I guess if you are getting the full GGTS there would not be a issue. Everything is in there. Why it has so many different parts because the GGTS itself can cater to different battery sizes. And of coz also the air flow control too.
Hope this helps abit.
As for the parts, I guess if you are getting the full GGTS there would not be a issue. Everything is in there. Why it has so many different parts because the GGTS itself can cater to different battery sizes. And of coz also the air flow control too.
Hope this helps abit.
No, I added another o-ring on the male 510 side...
I missed the part about only having a Provari. Trade the Provari for a SSGGTS...problem solved. Seriously! I might trade one for a Kong though
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Stiffer draw on your provari? How about watching Scott's video? I remembered he did mention about it on his video. It's something to do with the center post of the ody.
igetcha69's Channel - YouTube
igetcha69's Channel - YouTube
sweet I will try this. Was the o ring in the expansion kit or did you buy it elsewhere? if elsewhere what size is the oring?
@lonely: thanks a lot man I'll watch the video in my lunch break and hope to find an answer this way. Ever since tanks came out I dreamed of a atty tanks and would not even go as far as thinking of a rebuildable atty which is just the cherry on the ice cream.
Well now I spent the cash for the ody love the functions, looks, everything, except the draw lol.
also is this guy on ECF? I watched many of his videos but never figured out if he is on ECF or not.
You could put some carto filler material in the Ody connection air tube, then add or remove material to achieve your desired draw.
want - how are you determining the placement of your ceramic housing? by that, I mean, are you screwing it into the base, to "about" the right place, locking down the grounding nut, and then screwing the whole Ody on to your Provari?
You will get less air flow if you try to get the base as close to the top of the provari as possible. When you're building your next coil, screw the Ody base all the way down on your provari first... before you insert the ceramic/housing. Then screw the ceramic down, only far enough to make the connection.
The same thing will happen for GG Stealth users - if you screw the ceramic into the base first, and screw it in too far, the post is farther down, resulting in a big gap between the Ody base and the stealth cap, and the draw is very airy. But if you screw the base on first, all the way down, there will be less of a gap, and less air flow
You will get less air flow if you try to get the base as close to the top of the provari as possible. When you're building your next coil, screw the Ody base all the way down on your provari first... before you insert the ceramic/housing. Then screw the ceramic down, only far enough to make the connection.
The same thing will happen for GG Stealth users - if you screw the ceramic into the base first, and screw it in too far, the post is farther down, resulting in a big gap between the Ody base and the stealth cap, and the draw is very airy. But if you screw the base on first, all the way down, there will be less of a gap, and less air flow
I got the O-ring out of 1 of the 2 kits I have, but I tried several before finding 1 I liked. The one in the pic is about .350 OD with a thickness of .055 or about 9mm x 1.5mm roughly. After knocking 1 of the boxes over I just grabbed an o-ring off of the pile on the floor and it seemed pretty good.
thanks imeo
i understand your explanation . tiny oring is keep from leaking juice ,it's small but doing important thing
Hey thanks Bqaulette and Poppa I really appreciate the Mac giver skills I'll try this tonight. I screwed on the housing to the bottom thingy first and then screwed it on to the provari, I'll for sure give both options a try tonight and hope it works.
Thanks a lot guys also fright you all are very very helpful and it's much appreciated.
Ben
Thanks a lot guys also fright you all are very very helpful and it's much appreciated.
Ben
@Stefano
This is Ody in 'mid' mode. You have answered my doubts. Thanks.
By the way with that mouthpiece being so short, does it gives any problems while vaping or changing the juice control?
This is Ody in 'mid' mode. You have answered my doubts. Thanks.
By the way with that mouthpiece being so short, does it gives any problems while vaping or changing the juice control?
Man I hope my units come today, usps keeps saying its still in Texas... Im gonna check again.
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