Odysseus official

Status
Not open for further replies.

juliusakajay

Full Member
Verified Member
Dec 18, 2011
26
11
germany
Videos look very nice and very clear my friend julius. I am sure German friends wil enjoy them very much buddy:)
Thank you very much :) I appreaciate that a lot ;-) Thought it could be interesting also for international users just because of the visual stuff :p The whole text is just some annotations especially for the cleaning.


Could someone with the appropriate rights please put these german Videos into the Wiki for easier finding them again!
I LOVE Imeos style and english, but I better understood the german version :)

Wow, thanks man :D Would definetly be cool and a big honour :D
 

Valsacar

Ultra Member
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 16, 2010
1,778
243
Seoul
Got my two in yesterday, did the milk boil for about 4 minutes... don't put flame on high and turn away, makes a mess fast. After that I soaked it in hot water with the other pieces, sprayed down with vegetable wash (what I always use to clean my GG stuff) and hot rinse again.

First coil was too high in resistance, but still vapes well (2.8ohm), and since I'm sick right now the light/cool vape actually works better for me. Using it on my stealth (with aluminum GGTS air control, keeps weight down) as my backup vape (primary while I'm sick though) since it doesn't hold too much. I like that if it runs low and I don't have time to refill it properly I can just drip a little until I do have a chance to sit down at a desk and refill.
 

Major

Supplier Associate
ECF Veteran
Mar 22, 2011
1,956
1,888
Panama City, Florida
www.ggecig.com
That looks like all my rebuildables. Mine get like that all the time Major.

Thanks for the responses guy! I should have been a bit more specific. The attached photo is very poor but the best I could get. :blush:

I have been vaping with primarily horizontal coil rebuildable cartos so I am very familiar with the sludge from juice building up. I also have been using regular atties since about March last year so again, used to the normal build-up. ;)

If you note in my very poor (but workable! :w00t:) coil, you'll note the wire itself is clean. It had only one tank through it. What I was asking about was the wick buring. HOpe you can make that out on my fuzzy pic. I was wondering if the wick itself burning was due to not pre-burning the wick before using it or if I wound the wire too tightly.

wickburn.jpg


Thanks guys! :)
 

fright88

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 21, 2011
5,079
2,372
45
Loveland CO
I've never checked the wick after just a couple tanks through but those kinda of marks are usually left on my wicks even after a decient torch burn off. Here is the same wick as the previous pic after a few seconds under the torch.

IMG_0563.jpg


I have had those marks on all of my wicks after burning off most of the crud. I have used everything from wrapping the wicks with no pin wrapping with 18 and 16 guage needles and wrapping with my multimeter leads. Regardless of if the coil is tight or so loose the wick will slip through it I always get marks like that.

BTW did you get my package? If not it should be there tomorrow.
 

Major

Supplier Associate
ECF Veteran
Mar 22, 2011
1,956
1,888
Panama City, Florida
www.ggecig.com
First, let me apologize for missing a whole day but when I saw the postings, I had to back away before I said something that would require Imeo to remove me as an Associate.

One of the things about the internet that so many love is its anonymity. The downside to that is a person or their username is only known to others by the level of integrity or respect they give and receive.

What some don't comprehend is that old phrases like honor and respect are not granted for life. They are like a paycheck. You don't work for 2 weeks, get a paycheck and live on that indefinitely. You have to earn, just like a paycheck, every day.

That said, I have no issues with you CarolCrocbag. We have always got on well to my knowledge. What you may not realize is that there are no shades of gray in honesty. You are either honest or you are a liar.

Terms like "deception", "deceit", etc are just politically correct ways of calling someone a liar. As a forum moderator I only get to see a small bit more than the regular users but I can tell you that my friend Imeo is one of the most honorable and respected men I know.

I have seen users misrepresent, falsify and outright take from him. Imeo never makes a scene over it. He chooses to say someone made a mistake, give them the benefit Steve. And his reward for always allowing people the benefit of the doubt, he is treated like this.

Carol, what you call a "full picture" is like me or anyone else. It is what you want to make it in your own thinking. To come on a sub-forum and accuse a man with honor and decency of creating a deception about a few square centimeters of stainless steel mesh is ludicrous.

Imeo deserves better than that and while you seem vindicated in your quest for a "full picture", please recall what I said. It is a fact that we all are known here only by our words and deeds. In this case as in many others, Imeo has silently again proven himself to be a person deserving of our respect.

And for the record, Imeo made a video last May comparing the steel mesh against regular wick and his impressions on regular being better in his opinion. I hope I haven't put Imeo in a need to revoke me from his forum but some things just simply cannot go unchallenged.
 
Last edited:

Major

Supplier Associate
ECF Veteran
Mar 22, 2011
1,956
1,888
Panama City, Florida
www.ggecig.com
I've never checked the wick after just a couple tanks through but those kinda of marks are usually left on my wicks even after a decient torch burn off. Here is the same wick as the previous pic after a few seconds under the torch.

IMG_0563.jpg


I have had those marks on all of my wicks after burning off most of the crud. I have used everything from wrapping the wicks with no pin wrapping with 18 and 16 guage needles and wrapping with my multimeter leads. Regardless of if the coil is tight or so loose the wick will slip through it I always get marks like that.

BTW did you get my package? If not it should be there tomorrow.

Thank you so much Fright! Your picture and answer were spot on and my OCD is now satisfied! :laugh:

And I will PM you when it arrives! I am looking for it anxiously! :)
 

harekira

Full Member
Dec 12, 2011
62
13
Germany
Hi Imeo,
first of all I'd really like to thank you for your efforts. I'm from Germany and "with" GG since May 2011 and meanwhile I have 2x SS GGTS, 1 Stealth, 1 IAtty, 1 UFS2 and 1 Ody. Really excellent products and great craftsmanship. Also I'd like to thank Vassili, who took Germany under his "wings". Really nice guy!

I have 2 questions that I'd like to be cleared up concerning the impedance of the wire, since in the German forums there seems to be a little bit of confusion, how to measure it right.

To make things easier I use the following abbreviations:
NR = non-resistance wire
R = resistance wire
Z = non-resistance wire entwined with resistance wire (~ 1cm)

Which combination is to measure to get the correct impedance of the wire for the Ody:
1. NR + Z + R
2. NR + Z + R + Z
3. NR + Z + R + Z + NR

And the second question I have is how this is to be seen in relation to the impedance of ready-bought atomizeres.
When I buy a 1,8 Ohm LR atomizer and measure the impedance on the ProVari I'll get usually the 1,8 Ohm.
When I measure the impedance of the Ody on the ProVari which was previously measured with a multimeter at let's say 2,0 Ohm, I get a 1,8 Ohm on the ProVari.
Any ideas?

Greetings
Roland
 
Last edited:

Stefano

Full Member
Sep 12, 2011
50
70
Croatia
Maybe someone has already written, but I found the post. When empty Ody, it must be recharged, it is normal :)
Unscrew the two upper parts, the liquid is poured and then the doors of two parts, to close Ody tank. During this procedure, we always leaked some fluid through the connector 510. Mouthpiece is closed until the end. I have to do with the removed Ody, that we no liquid leaks in GGTS. After deleting all the liquid and deflate slightly through the mouthpiece, the first 10 moves of steam, you can feel the gurgling of fluids. When the trauma is over, begins to enjoy steam and Nirvana, but only to frustration with the new emphasis on liquids.
Where I'm wrong?
Does this happen only to me?
Please help!

My English with Google Translator
 

Para

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 15, 2010
2,812
1,180
Texas
Hi Imeo,
first of all I'd really like to thank you for your efforts. I'm from Germany and "with" GG since May 2011 and meanwhile I have 2x SS GGTS, 1 Stealth, 1 IAtty, 1 UFS2 and 1 Ody. Really excellent products and great craftsmanship. Also I'd like to thank Vassili, who took Germany under his "wings". Really nice guy!

I have 2 questions that I'd like to be cleared up concerning the impedance of the wire, since in the German forums there seems to be a little bit of confusion, how to measure it right.

To make things easier I use the following abbreviations:
NR = non-resistance wire
R = resistance wire
Z = non-resistance wire entwined with resistance wire (~ 1cm)

Which combination is to measure to get the correct impedance of the wire for the Ody:
1. NR + Z + R
2. NR + Z + R + Z
3. NR + Z + R + Z + NR

And the second question I have is how this is to be seen in relation to the impedance of ready-bought atomizeres.
When I buy a 1,8 Ohm LR atomizer and measure the impedance on the ProVari I'll get usually the 1,8 Ohm.
When I measure the impedance of the Ody on the ProVari which was previously measured with a multimeter at let's say 2,0 Ohm, I get a 1,8 Ohm on the ProVari.
Any ideas?

Greetings
Roland

The difference could be the internal resistance of the multimeter not being factored out. Cross the two probes and take a reading to see if the meter is or is not registering internal resistance.
 

gredie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 23, 2011
1,634
256
GG, Austria
Which combination is to measure to get the correct impedance of the wire for the Ody:
1. NR + Z + R
2. NR + Z + R + Z
3. NR + Z + R + Z + NR

Hi Roland,

while building/wrapping the Ody I measure the R wire and then NR together with R (your number 3).
I think to get the real resistance of the setup at the end you have to measure at the connector on the base after putting the rebuildable part on it - because until then you don't exactly know how long the NR wires will be at the end and the Ody parts itself have a little bit of resistance too. As an example, having a 2 ohm resistance wire between the NR wires I end up having a a bit more resistance when the setup of Ody is finished. Just play around a bit to learn the differences of resistance at each step ant to know how much of R wire you need for the wanted resistance.
 

gredie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 23, 2011
1,634
256
GG, Austria
After deleting all the liquid and deflate slightly through the mouthpiece, the first 10 moves of steam, you can feel the gurgling of fluids. When the trauma is over, begins to enjoy steam and Nirvana, but only to frustration with the new emphasis on liquids.
Where I'm wrong?

Stefano, do you put the two top caps on the Ody in one piece after refill? Doing it that way the liquid may be pressed into the atty part and flood it.
First put on the lower cap, then the o-ring and at the end the small top ring/cap (close mouthpiece/liquid contol assumed).
 

Stefano

Full Member
Sep 12, 2011
50
70
Croatia
Stefano, do you put the two top caps on the Ody in one piece after refill? Doing it that way the liquid may be pressed into the atty part and flood it.
First put on the lower cap, then the o-ring and at the end the small top ring/cap (close mouthpiece/liquid contol assumed).



I'll try again so that advise! It just is not clear where the liquid goes, if everything is closed until the end. Is the vacuum hood so strong? Probably! Thank you Gredie :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread