Odysseus official

[Keeno]

30. The center pin has to be screwed very well to the ceramic housing, so when you turn the lower connection nut to grab the wire, the center pin mustnt move together with this nut

Probably every center pin leak issues begins and end here.....fixed my issue. Another place with some "fair" pricing on the .99 silver:

Rio Grande Jewelry Making Supplies

 

[imeothanasis]

Yes, I will noob. But please ask Bruce about this so he will order it from me. If he doesnt order it then I will not be able to send it

hi imeo would like to check with you will you be sending ody refilling cap to bruce????

 

[MegaDark]

great!!!! will pm bruce or justin now

thank you imeo

Sent from Gunpla World

 

[RiverNut]

Thanks guys... I just ordered 100 ft. roll.

Any help on locating a source for wick? Thanks

the stuff that COV sells is perfect for the Ody and Penelope but since he is out of stock here is an alternative. You will need to double up on it cause it's diameter is half of COVs
Silicia Wick

 

[kidbeaster]

the stuff that COV sells is perfect for the Ody and Penelope but since he is out of stock here is an alternative. You will need to double up on it cause it's diameter is half of COVs
Silicia Wick

I was just reading in the modders forum on wicking materials and some people are using regular 100% cotton yarn. They recommend that you boil it for 30 min first. Anyone try this? How well does it work?

 

[RiverNut]

I haven't tried it but I do know that silica won't catch fire if dry. Cotton will.

 

[gouki]

I went out and bought me some cotton rolls and it took a few tries to get it to work and to me anyway the flavor is much better. I did use the wick that came with the ody but was looking for an alternative since it is never in stock at cov. Check out GG Odysseus with a rolled cotton wick - YouTube and since it so cheap you can practice as much as you want to make it work for you. Just adjust the flow control once you notice flavor change and it will never run dry.

 

[imeothanasis]

with Ody or Penelope you can try any wick even if it gets burned because of their liquid control.

But dont ask me if I suggest experiments like this, you know my answer

 

[Keeno]

I don't think I can imagine the amount of supplies it must take to satisfy everyone. I'm feeling pretty confident that COV and all the other suppliers and of course Imeo will soon figure all this out and we can conveniently get all our supplies....I'd definitely prefer to just get all my supplies from COV.....cost within reason as has been doesn't bother me a bit just need it when I need it. I need to say I love this Penelope....I'm blown away by the imagination, vision and engineering that goes into all my GG products....Imeo's vision impresses me most and leaves me amazed everytime I disassemble my GG items. I never have "gushed" over a device/devices on the forums but the GG line is the exception.....

 

[imeothanasis]

Thank you very much Kee
I am always trying to make something that doesnt exist in the market, easy to use, totally reliable, with all the possible features, the best machining and to join you for at least 30 years and more

 

[ime5000]

ok maybe a noob question, but how much resistence is in the kanthal and nichrome?
im trying to make around 1.5 maybe a tiny bit lower ohm coils wondering how long i should make them. resistence wire at least

also what ohm do the ready wires come at?

 

[RiverNut]

ok maybe a noob question, but how much resistence is in the kanthal and nichrome?
im trying to make around 1.5 maybe a tiny bit lower ohm coils wondering how long i should make them. resistence wire at least

also what ohm do the ready wires come at?

What gauge is your wire? You will get lower resistance with thicker wires and resistance increase as the length increase. The ready mades come in at around 1.8 ohms

 

[SuperSonic]

ok maybe a noob question, but how much resistence is in the kanthal and nichrome?
im trying to make around 1.5 maybe a tiny bit lower ohm coils wondering how long i should make them. resistence wire at least

also what ohm do the ready wires come at?

It all depends on what grade wire you have and how the gauge is measured, in AWG or SWG is slightly different. They all vary on operating temperatures and resistances.

Here are a few examples to absorb.....

Kanthal is actually a brand name of NiChrome wire and comes in different grades. ie: Kanthal A1, Kanthal D, etc.... it is also made of a slightly different compound and percentage of each.
Kanthal contains Aluminum - percentages vary with the grade.

NiChrome wire is typically a Nickel / Chromium compound sold in different grades ie NiChrome A, NiChrome B and NiChrome C.
NiChrome A is typically 78% Nickel (which is often referred to as 80%) and 20% Chromium
NiChrome B contains some Iron in the compound about 24% Iron and approximately 60% Nickel
NiChrome C contains more of an Iron compound and less Nickel (I've seen a few variants of this)

Then you have your Bare Nickel wire and Silver which also come in multi-grades and silver compounds.

So it isn't that cut and dry to answer your question as cut and dry as it was posted.

Here is a example of some 36AWG Kanthal D Wire directly below:

Here's an real example:

Each gauge wire and compound will have an Ohms Per Foot or Resistance Per Foot Rating. They are all different.

36 gauge Kanthal D resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2370 degrees F / 1300 degrees C
Resistance- 30.9 ohm/ft 102 ohms/m
Wire Diameter- 0.005" / 0.13 mm

Here's another example for ya:

Each gauge wire and compound will have an Ohms Per Foot or Resistance Per Foot Rating. They are all different.

32AWG Kanthal A1 @ 1 1/8" with get you to approximately 1.5ohm depending on how you wrap your NR wire and how deep you bind the leads to the R wire.

34AWG Nichrome A @ just under 1" (Like 15/16's) will give you the same result, of course depending on how you wrap your NR wire and how deep you bind the leads to the R wire.

hth

Peace-

 

[rwechsler]

It all depends on what grade wire you have and how the gauge is measured, in AWG or SWG is slightly different. They all vary on operating temperatures and resistances.

Here are a few examples to absorb.....

Kanthal is actually a brand name of NiChrome wire and comes in different grades. ie: Kanthal A1, Kanthal D, etc.... it is also made of a slightly different compound and percentage of each.
Kanthal contains Aluminum - percentages vary with the grade.

NiChrome wire is typically a Nickel / Chromium compound sold in different grades ie NiChrome A, NiChrome B and NiChrome C.
NiChrome A is typically 78% Nickel (which is often referred to as 80%) and 20% Chromium
NiChrome B contains some Iron in the compound about 24% Iron and approximately 60% Nickel
NiChrome C contains more of an Iron compound and less Nickel (I've seen a few variants of this)

Then you have your Bare Nickel wire and Silver which also come in multi-grades and silver compounds.

So it isn't that cut and dry to answer your question as cut and dry as it was posted.

Here is a example of some 36AWG Kanthal D Wire directly below:

Here's an real example:

Each gauge wire and compound will have an Ohms Per Foot or Resistance Per Foot Rating. They are all different.

36 gauge Kanthal D resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2370 degrees F / 1300 degrees C
Resistance- 30.9 ohm/ft 102 ohms/m
Wire Diameter- 0.005" / 0.13 mm

Here's another example for ya:

Each gauge wire and compound will have an Ohms Per Foot or Resistance Per Foot Rating. They are all different.

32AWG Kanthal A1 @ 1 1/8" with get you to approximately 1.5ohm depending on how you wrap your NR wire and how deep you bind the leads to the R wire.

34AWG Nichrome A @ just under 1" (Like 15/16's) will give you the same result, of course depending on how you wrap your NR wire and how deep you bind the leads to the R wire.

hth

Peace-

When I'm home and at my computer, I'm going to start a thread in the GG owners section and quote parts of this epic post to help guide people who are new to rebuildables (ody, penelope, and iAtty in particular).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[ime5000]

ahhhhh, ok, heres what i got so it makes more sense


32 gauge Nichrome - Nickel 60% Chromium 16% Iron / balance , resistance wire
Maximum continuous temp- 2100 degrees F / 1150 degrees C
Resistance- 10.97 ohm/ft 35.98 ohms/m
Wire Diameter- 0.008" / 0.2 mm
Wire Gauge- 32
Length- 100 ft / 30.5 m
This wire will be shipped on its own spool
If two or more items are purchased the wire will be wound in one continuous length


thanks for the awesome reply, it helped out a lot

so im looking at strictly NR wire, about 1.5 inches is 1.37 ohms

 

[RiverNut]

When I'm home and at my computer, I'm going to start a thread in the GG owners section and quote parts of this epic post to help guide people who are new to rebuildables (ody, penelope, and iAtty in particular).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Great idea Rick, but please simplify where you can and expand where relevant. For instance, and keep in mind that I'm a noob also, I would think that the only relevance that the differences in the types of nichrome and their compound properties would be in their affect in taste if any. I think what most noobs need to know and understand is the resistance per foot for a particular type and gauge, information that should be available from the supplier they purchase it from. I'm guessing that the maximum continuous temp would affect the longevity of the coil. This is a guess but if so then it is worth noting. The other thing that I'm curious about is how the twist depth affects the resistance. Does the resistance start at the first contact point of the NR and the R or is it the whole length of the resistance wire( if that makes any sense). Also, maybe you could provide your knowledge of how the number of wraps and proximity to each other will affect the vapor production and or the flavor. Just my two cents friend and thank you for doing this.

 

[rwechsler]

Great idea Rick, but please simplify where you can and expand where relevant. For instance, and keep in mind that I'm a noob also, I would think that the only relevance that the differences in the types of nichrome and their compound properties would be in their affect in taste if any. I think what most noobs need to know and understand is the resistance per foot for a particular type and gauge, information that should be available from the supplier they purchase it from. I'm guessing that the maximum continuous temp would affect the longevity of the coil. This is a guess but if so then it is worth noting. The other thing that I'm curious about is how the twist depth affects the resistance. Does the resistance start at the first contact point of the NR and the R or is it the whole length of the resistance wire( if that makes any sense). Also, maybe you could provide your knowledge of how the number of wraps and proximity to each other will affect the vapor production and or the flavor. Just my two cents friend and thank you for doing this.

Don't worry, I'll take care of it.

 

[ime5000]

yea knowing the ohm per foot really helps just divided by 12 and thats what an inch will get ya, ad a little more and i got the perfect ody wick for 3.7v device now, really digging it. penelope should be here tomorrow too, so i should have fun
i think i found how i was leaking again too, i believe when you dont pull the wick up and trim it, it will pull the liquid down into the base there and leak like crazy, lesson learned once again. seems to be working great again.
i will say this is the rebuildable ive had the most ease withand have gotten to work decently, so i am very happy with it

 

[SuperSonic]

Really brief interjections to your post B4 I call it an evening.....

Great idea Rick, but please simplify where you can and expand where relevant. For instance, and keep in mind that I'm a noob also, I would think that the only relevance that the differences in the types of nichrome and their compound properties would be in their affect in taste if any.

Actually not really. The properties of each compound in each wire would be responsible for how quickly a wire will heat, how high a temperature the wire can withstand before its melting point and its carcinogens prior to inhalation. Metallic taste is a minor and if any adverse taste, can be resolved with a quick "flame burn".

I think what most noobs need to know and understand is the resistance per foot for a particular type and gauge, information that should be available from the supplier they purchase it from. I'm guessing that the maximum continuous temp would affect the longevity of the coil. This is a guess but if so then it is worth noting. The other thing that I'm curious about is how the twist depth affects the resistance. Does the resistance start at the first contact point of the NR and the R or is it the whole length of the resistance wire( if that makes any sense).

Resistance points will begin immediately post the contact of NR wire on both sides of the lead or R-Wire. More Free or exposed R Wire will = More Resistance. ie: 1.5" 34AWG NC-A = 2.2ohms whereas 1" 34AWG NC-A = 1.6ohms. Gauge and wire type will vary. Same scenario as above using Kanthal A1 at the same Gauge 34AWG might equate to: 1.5' 34AWG KA1 = 1.9ohms and 1" 34AWG NC-A = 1.4ohms. Above are for example purposes and resistance may be off slightly.... so don't use the above as an exact formula. I merely showing fluctuation in lengths and compounds.

Also, maybe you could provide your knowledge of how the number of wraps and proximity to each other will affect the vapor production and or the flavor.

The number of wraps will depend on a multitude of variants:

Wire Type
Wire Gauge
Base Voltage and Wire Type / Gauge
Wick Size
and How well your are able to wrap a coil.... experience wise.

You don't want to "choke your wick" with the coil, nor do you want a loose fitting coil. Just snug enough to hug the wick tightly and be able to heat the juice in the wick.... not just the wick.

Spacing between the coils will help to evenly heat the wick across the ceramic, thus creating a good healthy vapor. Too tight a space "may" result in a short, if you like winding the juice flow - and - too large a space between the coil wraps will keep the open spaces along with the juice in the wick slightly cooler then if being heated directly, thus "may" produce
a cooler vape, depending on voltage, and may not take advantage of the full flavor of the juice. Some juices flavor better hotter than others and some just the opposite.

Then there is the issue of "charring" the wick with close spacing and gunking the wick with wide spacing.

Just my two cents friend and thank you for doing this.

Hope this cleared some things up for you and whoever else finds this information useful.

My responses are within your post marked in red text.

Rick can take it from here...

Time for sleep....

Peace-

 

[ime5000]

so the resistence is really just the exposed part of the resistance wire?
lol ok i prolly have about a .5 ohm coil then, cuz i measure our 1.5" of my stuff which should equal around 1.4 ohms and prolly about half of that is covered up with the silver. lol
cant take to long a hit or i get some burnt taste, ill mess with it more tomorrow.