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True - I was referring to just causing cotton to burst into flames with kanthal on a non dna40. No relation to TP. I don't know the actual temp that it does that either with kanthal or nickel - would be interested in seeing when that occurs with nickel
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I think it'll do it at the same temp regardless of kanthal or nickel because it's a property of cotton not the coil... Both can cause it u just have to get the coils red hot
Yup guess that makes sense. Only possible to see what temp you'd be at with nickel so this the question. Guess I should have been more clear. Anyone know what temp that would be?
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Guess I'll have to dry burn them on another mod with the voltage turned way down.
I'll prob upgrade my rDNA to 40 and all the silly questions will stop. I could test it myself. 
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Have you ever seen the movie Fahrenheit 451 of course that was for books but papers flash point is typically 450 F.
Last night I gave my best shot at testing it, looks as if I'm stuck with the one that I've got. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
Okay, so I have a Vapor flask DNA 40 on the way; very excited!
But I am just trying to educate myself about TP before it gets here. The main thing I am trying to wrap my head around the Wattage regulation in TP mode. I know (or at least I think I know!) that as the temp increases to the threshold set by the user, the wattage is bumped down to keep the temp within the boundaries of what's set. What I am wondering is; why wouldn't you then just leave the DNA 40 up at 40 watts, if all it's going to do is regulate it down? Is it because the temp will increase up to the threshold much quicker than if the wattage is set at a more reasonable setting? AFAIK the DNA "preheats" the coil by temporarily increasing the wattage anyway, so why not just set it high to begin with and let TP regulate it down when it's time?
Pardon my noobness; TP is totally new for me (as it is for most everyone), so I am just trying to get some info on it before it arrives. Thanks for any info you can give me!
But I am just trying to educate myself about TP before it gets here. The main thing I am trying to wrap my head around the Wattage regulation in TP mode. I know (or at least I think I know!) that as the temp increases to the threshold set by the user, the wattage is bumped down to keep the temp within the boundaries of what's set. What I am wondering is; why wouldn't you then just leave the DNA 40 up at 40 watts, if all it's going to do is regulate it down? Is it because the temp will increase up to the threshold much quicker than if the wattage is set at a more reasonable setting? AFAIK the DNA "preheats" the coil by temporarily increasing the wattage anyway, so why not just set it high to begin with and let TP regulate it down when it's time?
Pardon my noobness; TP is totally new for me (as it is for most everyone), so I am just trying to get some info on it before it arrives. Thanks for any info you can give me!
I know someone posted that they run their device that way with every nickel build they have. I just dot know how warm of a vape that give you? I prefer it to be slightly warm but not sure how warm a 40W TP vape is!
Basically as warm as you set the temperature. My current build usually settles in around 15-18 watts with temp protection. I don't notice much difference where the wattage is set, as long as it's over 20 watts. 20, 30 or 40 all give about the same vape for me.
That's once the coil has settled in at the right resistance, however. With a new build, I'll set the wattage lower in case the mod isn't reading the resistance where it should be. After it's sat for a while, the resistance adjusts
BOOM!
That's once the coil has settled in at the right resistance, however. With a new build, I'll set the wattage lower in case the mod isn't reading the resistance where it should be. After it's sat for a while, the resistance adjusts
BOOM!
Mine glitches with kanthal too. It was just far far less likely. I might be able to run a kanthal build all day long before it glitched. Same if I ran a lower wattage. But nickel with 40W was a sure way to get it to show up very quickly.
You absolutely can. The only disadvantage to doing so is that if you have a build that can't sustain very high wattage then the flashing tp message might get annoying.Okay, so I have a Vapor flask DNA 40 on the way; very excited!
But I am just trying to educate myself about TP before it gets here. The main thing I am trying to wrap my head around the Wattage regulation in TP mode. I know (or at least I think I know!) that as the temp increases to the threshold set by the user, the wattage is bumped down to keep the temp within the boundaries of what's set. What I am wondering is; why wouldn't you then just leave the DNA 40 up at 40 watts, if all it's going to do is regulate it down? Is it because the temp will increase up to the threshold much quicker than if the wattage is set at a more reasonable setting? AFAIK the DNA "preheats" the coil by temporarily increasing the wattage anyway, so why not just set it high to begin with and let TP regulate it down when it's time?
Pardon my noobness; TP is totally new for me (as it is for most everyone), so I am just trying to get some info on it before it arrives. Thanks for any info you can give me!
Basically here's the thing. There are those that run their temp set point much higher than the temp they actually want to vape at and crank the wattage down to achieve that. To me that just doesn't make a lot of sense as you're not taking full advantage of what tp mode can offer as well as introducing other possible issues.
The dna40 when it first fires ramps the wattage way above the set wattage to try to get the coil up to your tp setting. So if tp is way higher than you want to vape, you're going to get a hot "burst" at first. Then since the wattage won't sustain it, the temp is going to flux all over the place based on the draw. Draw a little faster and it cools down, slow the draw down and the temp starts to climb. Etc.
One of the great advantages the dna40 has to offer is a completely consistent vape from start to finish.
To do that you need to set the tp to the point where you want to vape at. Let's say I find that I really enjoy a certain juice in my orchid at 390 degrees. If I set tp to 450 and crank wattage down so it only maintains 390 during a draw then at first it tries to ramp up to 450, then it's going to be all over depending on my draw. The only advantage I'm getting from the dna40 is that it won't burn my wick.
On the other hand, if I set the tp for 390 and wattage above the level required to maintain that temp, then as soon as I hit the fire button it dumps high wattage in until it hits 390. Then it cuts wattage to maintain that temp. If I draw harder it applies more wattage, if I slow my draw down it cuts wattage. It will always maintain 390 degrees and keep the vape perfect and consistent no matter what.
I personally find the temp I want to run a build/juice at, then I set my wattage slightly higher than needed to maintain that temp. The best way to do that is to vape and see if the tp message shows up. If it does then decrease wattage a bit until it doesn't. Then if it shows up again I know my wicks are getting dry. But my vape is always exactly the same.
Thanks, that helps a lot! I appreciate the explanation. I guess I just have to play around with it to see what I prefer. But I totally get what you're saying. The tp works better if you set your temp where you want it and up the wattage a bit, rather than setting the tp higher and ratcheting down the wattage to compensate....
I have some nickel wire on the way, so I will play around with it and will be sure to report back....thanks for the help!!
I have some nickel wire on the way, so I will play around with it and will be sure to report back....thanks for the help!!
If you have it set at 40w all the time, depending on the atty and temp selected, it can cause a noticeable on and off sensation when it's displaying temp protected. If you set the wattage just above the desired temp, this doesn't happen, it's much smoother at throttling the wattage and gives a consistent vape. Say if you have it set to 40w and on your normal draw it's reaching 450 but you have the tp set to 390, it give a poor vape and you can tell it's putting power on and off without even looking at the screen. So I wouldn't say leaving it at 40w on all builds would be good. Maybe for the people who are doing that, it's because of the atty they're using and at 40w it's around their prefered temp anyway.
It would have to be set way higher than most people who do this set it. Preheat only ramps to a point before the set point and lets the set wattage take it the rest of the way.
It's a bit of a misconception that the chip doesn't throttle or control temperature if the temp protected message does not show up. The chip does indeed throttle to try to hold the temperature without going above it, and as a result you can set up coils to run at the set temp but not throw the temp message. The temp message tends to throw when the chip either throttles to 0 to maintain temperature or if it is doing heavy throttling for more than a second or so. If you have it set to hold exactly the set temperature at full draw, it won't throw the message. This is how I prefer to set it to avoid potential flat spots, etc.
For the most part if you have good wicking, even on an atomizer that only handles, for example, 15 watts through the bulk of the draw, setting to 40 won't necessarily cause the cutouts and flat spots. I find that those usually happen when there is a suboptimal build.
I use the DNA40 the same way and really like it. I also don't notice a "on and off sensation". I think that only happens if you don't have any airflow at all and the chip has to regulated down to 1 / 0 watts.
A possible reason why some people prefer to not vape "temp limited" is that it is more varied and less "monotonous". I really like the even and controlled vape that temp limiting gives but maybe others just prefer the vapor getting warmer the longer they vape or on the second draw etc.
Not in my experience. How high above the normal wattage a build requires in all my testing has never resulted in this pulsing. The only time it ever pulses is when it can't drop the wattage low enough, I.e.it must drop below 1 watt. When it kicks in (at least on both my units) even when the tp does flash it never cuts power completely to the coil. It only regulates to maintain. It's only when for example I am trying to get my wicks completely dry (before a flavor change for instance) that this pulsing becomes evident, and if watching the screen you'll see that it regularly drops to 1w and then off. Creating the pulsing you speak of. Again that's just my experience.
You would think, but look back even a few pages in this thread. Users who tried to set their unit to 40W and complained of burning lips etc. Even in the one review Robert Ellis? Don't remember his name be complained about the preheat causing a hot burning vape in the beginning and wanting to turn it off. Again obviously he had his tp set high and his wattage set low.
Absolutely. I've noticed if it had to throttle way below the set wattage for a period of time it will throw the message, but not when it's normally just throttling the wattage back a bit. That's exactly what I do, if I have a build that maintains temp at say 30 watts, then I'll set it at like 35 or so. It's throttling the whole time, but never enough to trip the message until the wicks start to dry out.
My experience as well, unless it throttles back below 1 watt it doesn't pulse for me regardless of wattage setting.
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