It is the authentic, in a way.
OTM used to be OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), but the creator got mad and threatened them in some way; Their response was changing it to OTM
So yes, it is the real deal
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It is the authentic, in a way.
OTM used to be OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), but the creator got mad and threatened them in some way; Their response was changing it to OTM
So yes, it is the real deal
Haha I'm on the subtank bandwagon too. I just happened upon the v6 at the local b&m, guy only got 10 in stock. I imagine we are a very significant minority at this very moment. I got a subtank mini on a group buy for 31.50. Idk if I already mentioned that lol. Should be getting here tomorrow!
It is the authentic, in a way.
OTM used to be OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer), but the creator got mad and threatened them in some way; Their response was changing it to OTM
So yes, it is the real deal
Oh, since its been here, I believe it could be authentic.
I just don't know what the T stands for. OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer. What does OTM stand for?
Original TANK manufacturer! haha I have no idea. By the way everyone, I got an update from the seller, who contacted DHL, who in turn told him that nothing would be happening until February 10th. What the heck is going on!
Also just submitted a complaint on the DHL website with the tracking number and some words....
Hopefully that gets their attention
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Original Thief Manufacturer? 
Either way, its an amazing vape and excellent quality.
Either way, its an amazing vape and excellent quality.
Anyone have any issues with the chimney fitment being finicky? Mine doesn't seem to want to thread correctly (very few threads) and binds a bit (doesn't seem to screw totally down, I see a tiny gap between the coil chamber and chimney)? This started happening on my third disassembly/reassembly for re-wicking.
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Haven't had that issue yet. If it went bad I'd just grab another one. I've never had a tank that feeds this well.
Actually, I worked on it a bit and took the wicking out and heated up the chamber. That seemed to help it quite a bit. I haven't owned any other RTA but I believe I would be hard pressed to find a better one! I'm thinking about possibly getting another one and doing some customization on the deck and air intake to make it more fitting for quad coil builds.
Crazy. I've tried lots of tanks and this one is fool proof. If it were a bit higher quality machining it would be just perfect
I will never use DHL again. I had my Fogger V6 (FIF) sent from HKG and they held it for over a week w/o even notifying me. I had to contact them. In the end they asked for a screenshot from the original order. Even though there was a commercial invoice with the package. Just stupid bureaucratic nonsense. I had a different order delivered two weeks previously (FIF sent me wrong device) and that flew through no problem. All this for a $25 atty. So my order for the Fogger V6 has taken me more than two weeks to receive and I paid DHL courier fees for it. Would have been faster to send it airmail.
I have bought hundreds of different vape gear items from FT and FC sent via EMS and never a delay. Others I have talked to have also told me they've had deliveries held up with DHL.
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Weird, i don't know whats going on. Sidenote, everyone, the Kayfun 4 is back in stock on intaste.de!
Got my Yiloong Fogger V6 today and its outstanding. I see you bought the Kato Square Box Mod. With no disrespect I hate mine (FC clone). Nothing sits flush on it, condensate collects behind the atty, the lock ring gets stuck, and I find where I hold my hand the atty vents. But that’s just me. I know many people who love theirs.
Where to start...
Here's the box:
Typical yiloong machining had flashing left in the fill hole and the vent hole wasn't machined all the way through. Cutout for fingernail to remove o-ring is larger but so is the o-ring. V6 on left V5 on right.
The air holes in the deck are 2.5mm but the air hole through the air flow control ring and base (largest one) is 2mm. So I took the base apart and drilled those out.
V5 was a little taller than V4 and the V6 is even taller still. V6 V5 V4 left to right.
All four capture post holes are drilled nearly all the way to the base, cutting off Ni200 in a heartbeat. So I snipped off little pieces of SS wire I had with flush cutters (leaves one end nearly flat) and put those in the bottom of the post holes. No more cutting Ni200 when tightening.
...
Here's the box:
Typical yiloong machining had flashing left in the fill hole and the vent hole wasn't machined all the way through. Cutout for fingernail to remove o-ring is larger but so is the o-ring. V6 on left V5 on right.
The air holes in the deck are 2.5mm but the air hole through the air flow control ring and base (largest one) is 2mm. So I took the base apart and drilled those out.
V5 was a little taller than V4 and the V6 is even taller still. V6 V5 V4 left to right.
All four capture post holes are drilled nearly all the way to the base, cutting off Ni200 in a heartbeat. So I snipped off little pieces of SS wire I had with flush cutters (leaves one end nearly flat) and put those in the bottom of the post holes. No more cutting Ni200 when tightening.
...
...
Here is the V6 and V5 deck side by side.
Here is the contents of the box, typical fogger stuff. Cult of the keychain screwdriver and parts bag. New drip tip.
V6 and V5 major parts. Chimneys are not the same. Glass tank is.
Looks good I think. Sitting on the XPV40 atm.
First build is a bust vapes horrible.
Very airy draw. Too much air not enough juice. Gonna try some other builds.
Here is the V6 and V5 deck side by side.
Here is the contents of the box, typical fogger stuff. Cult of the keychain screwdriver and parts bag. New drip tip.
V6 and V5 major parts. Chimneys are not the same. Glass tank is.
Looks good I think. Sitting on the XPV40 atm.
First build is a bust vapes horrible.
Very airy draw. Too much air not enough juice. Gonna try some other builds.
Second build much better flavor but still not enough at 30W. Also snapped off one of the ground posts just tightening a screw to secure a coil leg. I really wish they wouldn't drill and tap those so far down.
Bummer... I think yhey may have done that for the push pin connectors (not a fan of those). Totally adree with you. Great idea on use of SS wire. I just put some extra wire through the hole. I'm getting decent flavor from my twisted 30 ga (two wires) dual coil build (0.7 ohms) running at around 10W on my iPV mini 30.
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Well it has no problem flowing air and throwing clouds. Especially now that there is 2.5mm all the way through on both air channels. And I'm loving the unrestricted draw. But the small build deck only allows so much coil...unless I go vertical which I used to do on previous Foggers. But this binding screw post with elevated coil leg wire capture holes makes that a tad more tricky. As one of the ground posts has twisted off though, I'll eventually drill it and tap it for a 2mm screw then it'll be time to go vertical. My latest build. horizontal, at 10 wraps each, 5mm diameter coils of 28 gauge Ni200 total resistance of .1 ohm is sustaining 35W. Air flow being the same, the extra power is producing more vaporized e-Liquid so the flavor is starting to come back. Still not up to Kayfun level but coming back. So that tells me it will take at least 40W and probably upwards of 50W or 60W to get Kayfun like flavor density. IE denser vaporized e-Liquid to air mix. And that's the real problem. At 35W it is already way more vapor than I need anyways LOL. But hey, it's a hobby! I'll also drill out the next air hole down to 2mm and the smallest to 1.5mm.
That is something I was considering doing with mine as well as tapping the existing air holes and drilling and tapping four more. I would put two each side toward the gap between the posative block and negative post. I would put screws in the factory holes and go for a quad coil build. If I can find someone with the equipment, I would put some more juice channels in too. [emoji6]
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