Official Fogger V6.0 thread!

[awsum140]

I'm a Fogger fan and enjoy the 4.1 quite a bit. I bought 2 V6s and tried coiling one up this afternoon, after cleaning it. It is cutting off the coil wires even with hardly any tension on one of the positive post screws. Tomorrow I'm going to try running a burr through the holes to take out any sharp spots and if that doesn't work I'll try stuffing some wire down there. Very frustrating!

 

[350ZMO]

I'm a Fogger fan and enjoy the 4.1 quite a bit. I bought 2 V6s and tried coiling one up this afternoon, after cleaning it. It is cutting off the coil wires even with hardly any tension on one of the positive post screws. Tomorrow I'm going to try running a burr through the holes to take out any sharp spots and if that doesn't work I'll try stuffing some wire down there. Very frustrating!

Yeah I hate those posts everybody drills them too deep. And don't tighten too much cause there is very little strength left, I snapped one off just tightening 28 gauge Ni200.

 

[brickfollett]

I'm a Fogger fan and enjoy the 4.1 quite a bit. I bought 2 V6s and tried coiling one up this afternoon, after cleaning it. It is cutting off the coil wires even with hardly any tension on one of the positive post screws. Tomorrow I'm going to try running a burr through the holes to take out any sharp spots and if that doesn't work I'll try stuffing some wire down there. Very frustrating!

With what gauge wire? I had that issue with 30 gauge, but I swapped it for 28 gauge and didn't have any trouble. I just don't tighten it a whole lot, it's not really necessary

 

[brickfollett]

Where to start...

Here's the box:

View attachment 408830

Typical yiloong machining had flashing left in the fill hole and the vent hole wasn't machined all the way through. Cutout for fingernail to remove o-ring is larger but so is the o-ring. V6 on left V5 on right.

View attachment 408831

The air holes in the deck are 2.5mm but the air hole through the air flow control ring and base (largest one) is 2mm. So I took the base apart and drilled those out.

View attachment 408832

V5 was a little taller than V4 and the V6 is even taller still. V6 V5 V4 left to right.

View attachment 408833

All four capture post holes are drilled nearly all the way to the base, cutting off Ni200 in a heartbeat. So I snipped off little pieces of SS wire I had with flush cutters (leaves one end nearly flat) and put those in the bottom of the post holes. No more cutting Ni200 when tightening.

View attachment 408838

...

Very nice additions to the thread! While the 4 post deck isn't perfect, it's certainly an improvement over the two post design. Worlds easier to build on. I don't do nickel builds (yet) but 28 gauge works well. I think I'm going to do a nice 26 gauge build a dedicate it to my mechanical mods since I just got a K4 and using the P3 adapter, so I don't need to keep my ohms above .7 anymore. I think it'll handle .6 ohms, maybe lower, so i'll probably start with a 9 wrap 26 gauge dual coil around a 2.5mm drill bit.

 

[350ZMO]

With what gauge wire? I had that issue with 30 gauge, but I swapped it for 28 gauge and didn't have any trouble. I just don't tighten it a whole lot, it's not really necessary

Yes it is with Ni200 where .01 ohm is a big deal.

 

[350ZMO]

Very nice additions to the thread! While the 4 post deck isn't perfect, it's certainly an improvement over the two post design. Worlds easier to build on. I don't do nickel builds (yet) but 28 gauge works well. I think I'm going to do a nice 26 gauge build a dedicate it to my mechanical mods since I just got a K4 and using the P3 adapter, so I don't need to keep my ohms above .7 anymore. I think it'll handle .6 ohms, maybe lower, so i'll probably start with a 9 wrap 26 gauge dual coil around a 2.5mm drill bit.

Thanks. Actually I prefer the original 4.0 deck and posts.

 

[awsum140]

With the 4.1 I replaced the post screws with "cheese head" screws and then added flat washers. That made it very easy to coil by eliminating the "squirm" when tightening the screws. I am waiting for three DNA40 boards and plan on building my own mods for them.

I'm using conventional mods so I was using 30 gauge Kanthal and tried 28 gauge as well. Both had the same results which is why I will fool with it to try to get, what has to be, a sharp edge out of that one post.

 

[350ZMO]

With the 4.1 I replaced the post screws with "cheese head" screws and then added flat washers. That made it very easy to coil by eliminating the "squirm" when tightening the screws. I am waiting for three DNA40 boards and plan on building my own mods for them.

I'm using conventional mods so I was using 30 gauge Kanthal and tried 28 gauge as well. Both had the same results which is why I will fool with it to try to get, what has to be, a sharp edge out of that one post.

There ya go, that'll work. This will be like my eighth fogger so I know to expect crappy machining from Yiloong. In that regard I wasn't surprised. At least they are trying to do better. I always liked to use vertical coils on Foggers. Actually my BIG foggers are still the best foggers, can fit some massive vertical coils, hold gobs of juice.

My first Ni200 build on this was .07 ohms then this one at .1 ohms. Next will be with 30 gauge to try to get closer to the recommended .2. I've got some tiny washers for 1.6mm screws that might work...

 

[brickfollett]

Yes it is with Ni200 where .01 ohm is a big deal.

Have you tried Titanium grade 1 wire? I have a vaporflask on the way, so I'm diving in to temp control. I've heard good stuff about titanium

Also, I built a dual 9 wrap 26 gauge kanthal build for .51 ohms and its keeping up just fine, even on my hard hitting stingray. I'm using it on my Kato right now for the form factor. Still blown away by this thing

 

[Mark Spivey]

Yeah I hate those posts everybody drills them too deep. And don't tighten too much cause there is very little strength left, I snapped one off just tightening 28 gauge Ni200.

Any suggestion on how to reattach the post? I snapped mine off too! I tried drilling and pressing but that didn't work since I don't have precision equipment. Would something like JB Weld work?

 

[brickfollett]

Any suggestion on how to reattach the post? I snapped mine off too! I tried drilling and pressing but that didn't work since I don't have precision equipment. Would something like JB Weld work?

I'd be wary of JB weld, being a chemical/glue sort of thing. I don't know what that would do if it reacted with temperature and e-liquid. Best advice would probably be to buy another Fogger since they're so cheap lol. sucks that you snapped it

 

[Mark Spivey]

Yeah... I ordered another one. But... I think I am going to get some properly threaded screws, drill through the deck, and reattach them that way. If I measure correctly I can have the screws end at the bottom of the coil lead holes.

 

[Mark Spivey]

This one is going to become my Frankenstein! I've already bored out the large air holes in the base and adjustment band to match the air holes in the bottom of the coil deck. After I get my negative terminal posts reattached and all coil lead connections fixed to where they won't shear my coil leads, I may play with enlarging the juice channels. After that I may get creative with drilling and tapping so that I may change where the coil deck air holes are at... may even set it up for running quad coils (evil laugh).

 

[350ZMO]

Have you tried Titanium grade 1 wire? I have a vaporflask on the way, so I'm diving in to temp control. I've heard good stuff about titanium

Also, I built a dual 9 wrap 26 gauge kanthal build for .51 ohms and its keeping up just fine, even on my hard hitting stingray. I'm using it on my Kato right now for the form factor. Still blown away by this thing

I will never run titanium on a DNA 40 and I feel sorry for those that do. To each their own.

 

[350ZMO]

Any suggestion on how to reattach the post? I snapped mine off too! I tried drilling and pressing but that didn't work since I don't have precision equipment. Would something like JB Weld work?

I am going to drill and tap when I get the time. Then I'll post pics. Need to do the V5 as well, the ground post on that was a press fit too. I hate press fits. No to JB. Too small for JB to have any strength plus not conductive. And I use JB on everything LOL love that stuff. But not for this application.

 

[Mark Spivey]

Hummm... what about the use of liquid metal to fill the void space (below the coil lead holes) in the terminals? Wondering just because I'm thinking that if I can do that then I wouldn't need to fuss over the length of my threaded studs when reattaching the terminals (I'm going to do it this weekend) and would fix the positive block coil holes too (no more sheared coil leads).

 

[awsum140]

I would think any "filler" would contain chemicals that you might not want to add to your liquid. The easiest way is to just keep feeding wire, tightening down until it cuts off and repeat until it doesn't cutoff any more. I used 30ga nickel wire, two strands at a time and, while it too some time to do, seems to have worked fairly well.

 

[350ZMO]

Hummm... what about the use of liquid metal to fill the void space (below the coil lead holes) in the terminals? Wondering just because I'm thinking that if I can do that then I wouldn't need to fuss over the length of my threaded studs when reattaching the terminals (I'm going to do it this weekend) and would fix the positive block coil holes too (no more sheared coil leads).

I used SS utility wire, sniped some pieces off of correct length and let them drop in the hole. If you use flush cutters one end will be perfectly flat the other end will be pinched. You can either put pinched end down in hole or cut it off if you allow yourself a little extra to do that.

 

[Mark Spivey]

After going to all kinds of places in an attempt to find a drill bit, 2 mm tap, and 2 mm machine thread long screws to no avail (even went to jewellers to see if they could do it), I came up with an alternative. It involves titanium 1/16" drill bits and conductive metal bonding material (will withstand temperatures greater than 500 degrees). I'm going to drill down about 1/8" into the deck, measure and mark bits at the bottom of the coil lead holes, cut the bits (spiral areas, apply metal bonding agent, insert back into holes, put posts on protruding bits, and let cure. I will use the remaining parts of the bits cut to size to fill the lower parts of the positive block coil lead holes. I will let you know how it goes!

 

[awsum140]

Mark, check Amazon for drills and taps. The same is true for screws, even in stainless. Here's a link I found for bits, don't be put off by the prices at the top of the list. Those are sets and micro bits and fairly expensive. The size you're looking for are probably eighty cents each or so.

Metric Drill Bits mm metric drill bits