Official Fogger V6.0 thread!

[Phone Guy]

Who's got the best price on the v6 right now? Anyone know? I have not seen these local, which I'd rather see before I buy since I have a v4.1 and have actually been fairly happy with it, except building dual coils on the 2 posts give me a little bit of hassle.

This looks like it has 4 holes in 3 posts, that should make building it easier.

I've always built my v4 kayfun style (no wick in the channels just on the deck) and it's worked fine. On my v4 I removed the afc and get decent air flow.

But at $25'ish I'd like to try the v6!

 

[Mark Spivey]

Vapercompany.com $31.95 before 5% discount code GS5

Sweet-vapes.com $31.95 before any discount code (I found MOMSDAY for 20% but don't know if it works)

 

[awsum140]

I finally finished working on my modified V6 and got it coiled up and working. The air holes through the base under the coils are now 2.5mm. The air holes in the base ring are 2, 2.5 and 3mm with a 3mm hole in the control ring. Unfortunately, I managed to snap off one negative post cleaning it after all the machining so now its a three poster and being used/coiled as a two poster.

The build is 13 wraps of 30 gauge tempered Ni200 on a 12 gauge, 2.769mm, needle and rayon wicks. It puts out like a freight train going uphill under full load! 30 watts at 420 degrees on an Invader Mini.

Photo tomorrow when I have some time for photos.

 

[AREA51]

Great info on your build Awsum.....

 

[awsum140]

Forgot to mention that I ground the ends of the coil screws smooth and filled the over-drills in the posts so the screws don't cut the wires when tightened up. That was a bigger pain that all the drilling and de-burring!

 

[Mark Spivey]

My Frankenstein V6 bit the dust due to not being able to keep the negative posts affixed (snapped both off). Maybe I will resurrect some day or just use it as a parts doner. [emoji22]

No matter where you go, take your Vape!

 

[suprtrkr]

Just ordered mine, waiting on vape mail. Looking forward to it. I have a 4.1 and a 4.4, like them a lot. Flavor is a tad muted; going to try some twisted/Clapton coils as soon as my 32ga gets here. I'm building the 4s ~.8, organic cotton wicks.i wet the wick ends with juice and cut them with scissors so part of the tail fits in the channel, and tuck the rest on the deck. No leaky. We'll see on the v6.

 

[suprtrkr]

Update: my v6 arrived; I bought it from Slo-tech, knowing it was a clone. This was not a good idea The post screws are too short, or conversely the transverse holes in the posts too low; it will not tighten down on 28ga wire. I do think, looking at it, it will do ok on a 32-over-28 Clapton coil, but l have to wait (again, sigh) for my roll of 32ga to show up so I can make some wire. So, while I'm waiting, I did what I should have done first and ordered a Yi Loong. The price diff is only ten bucks. I really went with the clone because I don't like the clear drip tip. This is ok, too; they sell drip tips.

 

[awsum140]

suptrkr, you'll find the post holes on the Yi Loong are over drilled and the wires will be cut off when the screws are tightened. I stuff the holes, below the cross holes for the wires, with small pieces of nickel wire to prevent that. To add to the fun, the screws, themselves, are "cupped" on the bottom and I carefully grind them flat. Once both of those "little details" are taken care of it's a nice atty to build on. The larger chimney allows larger coils and more wick.

 

[awsum140]

I said a while ago I'd post a couple of photos of a modified V6 base. Here they are -



Note that the base comes apart, after the center post screw is out. The holes, 2, 2.5, and 3mm, have to be deburred on the inside so it will screw back together smoothly. The same is true of the control ring to allow it to rotate smoothly. Also note that the positive post screws no longer screw in flush because the over drill that allows that to happen has been filled and packed tightly with Ni200 wire. The holes through the deck are also 3mm, now, and you can see how close that gets them to the center post insulator.



This is the base and control ring with the 3mm holes forward.

 

[suprtrkr]

suptrkr, you'll find the post holes on the Yi Loong are over drilled and the wires will be cut off when the screws are tightened. I stuff the holes, below the cross holes for the wires, with small pieces of nickel wire to prevent that. To add to the fun, the screws, themselves, are "cupped" on the bottom and I carefully grind them flat. Once both of those "little details" are taken care of it's a nice atty to build on. The larger chimney allows larger coils and more wick.

Aaaaiiiiyeeeee! Lol, that's more than I had hoped to do. I knew about the overdrill in the neg posts, and was planning your wire fix. But if I'm gonna split the lower deck (see your following post this thread, enlarge air holes to 3mm, photos), I might as well drill and tap the neg posts in place, grinding the screws just long enough to fill the gap. We'll see how much work that looks like when I get it apart. Thanks for the heads up, awsum.

 

[suprtrkr]

I said a while ago I'd post a couple of photos of a modified V6 base. Here they are-
(...)

And thanks again, awsum. A couple of questions: is the center post insulator press fit? It looks it, and that's cheaper than threading. Any idea what it might be made of? Looks, from the color, delrin. With what could it be replaced to gain higher heat tolerance for lower subohm builds?

 

[awsum140]

I assume, and you know what that can do, that it is delrin. I haven't had any problems with them, but I don't go much below an ohm. As far as grinding off the screws so they don't bottom out and cut the wires, I think it's a better, although tedious, idea to fill those holes to provide a better contact surface area. Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it.

 

[awsum140]

I would be very careful when working on those posts. They are very fragile and can be easily broken off .

 

[Mark Spivey]

I would be very careful when working on those posts. They are very fragile and can be easily broken off .

As I found out the hard way!

No matter where you go, take your Vape!

 

[suprtrkr]

I assume, and you know what that can do, that it is delrin. I haven't had any problems with them, but I don't go much below an ohm. As far as grinding off the screws so they don't bottom out and cut the wires, I think it's a better, although tedious, idea to fill those holes to provide a better contact surface area. Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it.

Yeah, ain't it the truth. I swear, I'm gonna find a pottery shop with a kiln and start making my own ceramic insulators OTOH, Grainger sells a foot of 3/8" PEEK plastic rod for $15. Man with a drill press and a Dremel-- which I happen to have-- can do a lot with that, even if he doesn't have a lathe, or even the CNC router he keeps swearing he's going to build.

 

[awsum140]

Tell me about it. I have a drill press and a Dremel, too. Along with that a sketch, a prototype made out of aluminum, sheet brass (1/16") and all the parts to build a VTR style DNA40. Add to that the DNA25s that need to be tucked into real VTRs and a couple of DNA200s coming and I have a lot of drill press and Dremel work to do. Now all I need is the time and inclination. I just checked tonight and the 1 amp Evolv charger board will fit into a real VTR with no problem, more Dremel and drill press work!

 

[suprtrkr]

Yup. I happen to like fancy woodwork-- I just bought a seriously pretty 2x2x12 piece of Australian Marblewood-- and I have in mind a 180deg tube mod/atty converter I want to build, so the mod sits alongside the atty rather than making it in one long piece. Something like a Nemesis-type with the 18350 tube would be nice for the car. And I want to do a dual 18350 electro-mechanical wood mod-- switching through FETs to avoid the clunky buttons, but unregulated-- that I also think would be pretty, and handy in the car. And then I'd like to try my hand at a VV and a VW set, just for fun. So far, though, I haven't been able to find a VW board greater than 40w from Evolv. That's not a handicap for me, particularly, as I rather like to vape in the 25-35w range. But it's be nice to have 100 or 150w in my back pocket just because. Can't figure out how to get there, though, without buying an expensive mod and robbing the board out of it. What for? And then I have this idea for a stepper-motor driven Clapton wire winder... Ah, so much to do, so little time

 

[awsum140]

Evolv is releasing a DNA200 board, possibly, today, Wednesday. I have an Invader Mini, 50 watt TC mod, that I bought to experiment with and find I'm happy around 25 watts. The TC feature make the vape amazingly consistent all the time and adds to coil and wick longevity very significantly. There are already bezels, printed plastics, available for the board but I'll probably kludge something in the basement instead. I don't like plastic or printed mods.

The "problem" with the DNA200 is the recommended power source, a 3S LiPO pack. There is a "balancing" charger built right into the board for that style battery pack so that's a plus. It will run on three 28650s in series but Evolv strongly suggests the 3S pack. Then, with three 18650s, you get into protecting them from each other as well as protecting you from them. According to what I've read from Evolv Beta testers, the 800mah 3S LiPO pack that was supplied outlasts a 3000mah IMR. It's a question of total power availability not just raw milliamp capacity. Plus, the board, at 200 watts, pulls 23 amps which is pretty high for an IMR as a continuous load.

 

[suprtrkr]

Evolv is releasing a DNA200 board, possibly, today, Wednesday. I have an Invader Mini, 50 watt TC mod, that I bought to experiment with and find I'm happy around 25 watts. The TC feature make the vape amazingly consistent all the time and adds to coil and wick longevity very significantly. There are already bezels, printed plastics, available for the board but I'll probably kludge something in the basement instead. I don't like plastic or printed mods.

The "problem" with the DNA200 is the recommended power source, a 3S LiPO pack. There is a "balancing" charger built right into the board for that style battery pack so that's a plus. It will run on three 28650s in series but Evolv strongly suggests the 3S pack. Then, with three 18650s, you get into protecting them from each other as well as protecting you from them. According to what I've read from Evolv Beta testers, the 800mah 3S LiPO pack that was supplied outlasts a 3000mah IMR. It's a question of total power availability not just raw milliamp capacity. Plus, the board, at 200 watts, pulls 23 amps which is pretty high for an IMR as a continuous load.

Hhhmmm... 200 watts, is it? I want one already and I haven't even seen it. I'm not all that big on LiPO packs-- I like to just swap batteries, thank you-- but 3 28650s is not going to be any fun either. Reckon I'd better get used to LiPOs. I don't even know why I want one, just that I do. 200 watts... now, that is a right smart bit of power to be doodling with in a hand-held device Most half-inch drill motors aren't that powerful If I build it, can I lift it, I wonder...

Edit: It's not up on Evolv's website, and all I can find so far is preorders, for if-and-when. There's not even a data sheet published yet, so far as I know.