OK thanks guys. I have a couple more questions, and don't want to read the DNA40 spec sheet... what's the minimum Ni200 resistance? and what's the sweet spot target? (for temp control I mean)
OK thanks guys. I have a couple more questions, and don't want to read the DNA40 spec sheet... what's the minimum Ni200 resistance? and what's the sweet spot target? (for temp control I mean)
My sweet spot is .15.
I'm not a happy camper right now. I'm going to step away and take a walk - cool off because I just spent the last 3 hours fighting with the new deck. Short Story right now, it completely messed with the resistance. I'd build a .15 coil and it would register at close to .30. Both on my Flask and my ohm reader. Got so mad that I put my W deck back on and it's doing the same thing. Somehow removing and replacing my decks have screwed something up and I can't figure it out.
I really am going for a walk now.
I believe the minimum now stated by vaporflask is
.14, I shoot for .15
I believe the minimum now stated by vaporflask is
.14, I shoot for .15
510 PIN is very stable. I even took it completely out and cleaned the threads with alcohol. It's strange because what should be a .15 build is registering at almost .30 it's like somewhere, somehow the base or the deck is upping my resistance. It's not jumping like something's loose or not secure, it's just changed my base resistance reading.+1 for stealthvapes tempered, i use the 29ga myself..
Rikk have you checked the 510 pin? Early on mine was too far in causing resistance to jump around.
ChiNA40 flask sounds like clone?
The china40 is a Chinese dna40 clone... In a vapor flask clone. $65 from focal, so yeah... I bought a vapor flask from another member that was fried (the Chinese chip inside) so I replaced the Chinese broken chip with a genuine dna20.. The quality of the first flask was OK, the one I ordered people are loving so I was impressed enough with the form factor of the Vaporflask I wanted to try another nicer made one. Plus this gives me a cheap chance to test temp control.
If I decide temp control is for me, I'll retrofit the newer flask with a genuine dna40.
K so I just hit the fire button and it took its reading and it's at .24ohms. See there's just no way. I have 6/7 wraps of 30ga that's always, always been .15. I've built this thing so much I know for a fact it should be .15. What could be causing my base resistance to be so high. Stumped.
K so I just hit the fire button and it took its reading and it's at .24ohms. See there's just no way. I have 6/7 wraps of 30ga that's always, always been .15. I've built this thing so much I know for a fact it should be .15. What could be causing my base resistance to be so high. Stumped.
No effect. It's stable just wrong. And one of the first things I checked was to see if any part of the coil was touching deck. I learned the little trick a while ago when I as having issues with resistance.Does untwisting the center pin have any effect on resistance?
Any nickel touching the "non-conducting" emetal or whatever its called?
Also try cleaning off the + & - screw threads
How many coils have you tried causing this same result?
Pics?
After I put my W deck back in I built a 29ga coil and tore that out and put a 30ga coil in there and let it sit for an hour. That's why it's at .24ohms currently. I've built 7 coils between the B deck and the W deck using different gauges thinking it was something I was doing wrong.interesting that it did drop a fair bit though.. Could water still be lodged in the screw posts?
K so I just hit the fire button and it took its reading and it's at .24ohms. See there's just no way. I have 6/7 wraps of 30ga that's always, always been .15. I've built this thing so much I know for a fact it should be .15. What could be causing my base resistance to be so high. Stumped.