OK thanks guys. I have a couple more questions, and don't want to read the DNA40 spec sheet... what's the minimum Ni200 resistance? and what's the sweet spot target? (for temp control I mean)
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My sweet spot is .15.
I'm not a happy camper right now. I'm going to step away and take a walk - cool off because I just spent the last 3 hours fighting with the new deck. Short Story right now, it completely messed with the resistance. I'd build a .15 coil and it would register at close to .30. Both on my Flask and my ohm reader. Got so mad that I put my W deck back on and it's doing the same thing. Somehow removing and replacing my decks have screwed something up and I can't figure it out.
I really am going for a walk now.
I'm not a happy camper right now. I'm going to step away and take a walk - cool off because I just spent the last 3 hours fighting with the new deck. Short Story right now, it completely messed with the resistance. I'd build a .15 coil and it would register at close to .30. Both on my Flask and my ohm reader. Got so mad that I put my W deck back on and it's doing the same thing. Somehow removing and replacing my decks have screwed something up and I can't figure it out.
I really am going for a walk now.
Ok thanks. The reason I am asking is I ordered a Vapor Flask from FC, so I'm going to try the ChiNA40, and will order some Ni200 wire (and a DNA40 most likely too).
So what do I want to order wire wise? Looks like 26ga? which LightningVapes doesn't have, that's usually where I get my wire.. he has 28g 30g and 32g.
I know lots of people talked about Tempered, but that's only from the UK right? (stealthvapes I think)
@Phone Guy order tempered from StealthVape. 30ga tempered for sure. It just works. It takes roughly 10 days to get here but so worth it. And since you're ordering from them, might as well get 28 and 29 while your at it. It's nice to have and once you work with both tempered and annealed, you'll see why.
If you're ordering 26ga, you should be good ordering that from anywhere it's so thick.
You're ordering your Flask from where? And what is a ChiNA40.
I'm still a little hot from my wasted afternoon. I'm letting my mother blankety blank blank blank sit for awhile. See if things go back to normal somehow.
I'm at a total loss. The only thing I can come up with is maybe after you wash your decks, they need to air dry and set before you start building on them because of this coating. Can you tell I'm grasping at straws. But to have my W deck that's work so good for so long do the same thing after putting it back on. Ideas are welcome!
If you're ordering 26ga, you should be good ordering that from anywhere it's so thick.
You're ordering your Flask from where? And what is a ChiNA40.
I'm still a little hot from my wasted afternoon. I'm letting my mother blankety blank blank blank sit for awhile. See if things go back to normal somehow.
I'm at a total loss. The only thing I can come up with is maybe after you wash your decks, they need to air dry and set before you start building on them because of this coating. Can you tell I'm grasping at straws. But to have my W deck that's work so good for so long do the same thing after putting it back on. Ideas are welcome!
+1 for stealthvapes tempered, i use the 29ga myself..
Rikk have you checked the 510 pin? Early on mine was too far in causing resistance to jump around.
ChiNA40 flask sounds like clone?
Rikk have you checked the 510 pin? Early on mine was too far in causing resistance to jump around.
ChiNA40 flask sounds like clone?
Also, as for dry burning Ni200 until it glows, I did some research on information available about potential toxins released from Ni200 @ high heat and posted my findings with cited sources here.
The whole reason I got into vaping was because I believed that its safer than smoking. Thats the same rational that prompted me to go with the DNA40. When it came out I watched a million reviews and vids and most had folks showing in their "how to" vids turning off temp control mode to dry burning the coils until they glowed like they've been used to doing with kanthal. Since @ 600 or more degrees fahrenheit is when Ni200 releases funky stuff is exactly why evolve made the max upper temp limit on the device 600 degrees.
The whole reason I got into vaping was because I believed that its safer than smoking. Thats the same rational that prompted me to go with the DNA40. When it came out I watched a million reviews and vids and most had folks showing in their "how to" vids turning off temp control mode to dry burning the coils until they glowed like they've been used to doing with kanthal. Since @ 600 or more degrees fahrenheit is when Ni200 releases funky stuff is exactly why evolve made the max upper temp limit on the device 600 degrees.
510 PIN is very stable. I even took it completely out and cleaned the threads with alcohol. It's strange because what should be a .15 build is registering at almost .30 it's like somewhere, somehow the base or the deck is upping my resistance. It's not jumping like something's loose or not secure, it's just changed my base resistance reading.
It was completely stable until I changed out this stupid deck. I took all these photos of my build of the new deck. Everything looked good and then it all it the fan.
I got frustrated and just built it the way it was and it's sit now for over an hour and I'm hoping everything stabilizes. I'm afraid to hit the Fire button to check.
Wow, what was supposed to be a fun change sure turned in to a poop show [emoji30]
The china40 is a Chinese dna40 clone... In a vapor flask clone. $65 from focal, so yeah... I bought a vapor flask from another member that was fried (the Chinese chip inside) so I replaced the Chinese broken chip with a genuine dna20.. The quality of the first flask was OK, the one I ordered people are loving so I was impressed enough with the form factor of the Vaporflask I wanted to try another nicer made one. Plus this gives me a cheap chance to test temp control.
If I decide temp control is for me, I'll retrofit the newer flask with a genuine dna40.
If I decide temp control is for me, I'll retrofit the newer flask with a genuine dna40.
Rikk, I'm sorry to hear that about your Squape. Hopefully you're right & its just excess H2O in there.
1st) Try twisting the center pin out (counterclockwise) a few turns and recheck the resistance on your flask. On mine the more I unscrew it, the lower my resistance.
2nd) Clean off all connections (squape's 510 threading, device's 510 threading & unscrew the squape's center pin and clean of the threads and rinse the inside of it where the threads screw in). After doing all of that your ohms will inevitably drop if you haven't already tried.
1st) Try twisting the center pin out (counterclockwise) a few turns and recheck the resistance on your flask. On mine the more I unscrew it, the lower my resistance.
2nd) Clean off all connections (squape's 510 threading, device's 510 threading & unscrew the squape's center pin and clean of the threads and rinse the inside of it where the threads screw in). After doing all of that your ohms will inevitably drop if you haven't already tried.
K so I just hit the fire button and it took its reading and it's at .24ohms. See there's just no way. I have 6/7 wraps of 30ga that's always, always been .15. I've built this thing so much I know for a fact it should be .15. What could be causing my base resistance to be so high. Stumped.
Yeah, the 2 selling points on it for me were that its the only DNA40 device (at least at the time I got mine & maybe still today) that allowed you to see the screen while using it. Adding a mirror to my vape gear isn't something I wanted to have to deal with. The second is the all day battery power.
Does untwisting the center pin have any effect on resistance?
Any nickel touching the "non-conducting" emetal or whatever its called?
Also try cleaning off the + & - screw threads
How many coils have you tried causing this same result?
Pics?
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interesting that it did drop a fair bit though.. Could water still be lodged in the screw posts?
Is it a clone or authentic? Not sure about the authentic, but some of the clones had an issue where some of the ematel material is in the threads of one of the posts on the deck. (Not the centre pin, either the left or right post unscrews from the deck below where you mount your various decks. If that's the case. Check those threads too.
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No effect. It's stable just wrong. And one of the first things I checked was to see if any part of the coil was touching deck. I learned the little trick a while ago when I as having issues with resistance.
After I put my W deck back in I built a 29ga coil and tore that out and put a 30ga coil in there and let it sit for an hour. That's why it's at .24ohms currently. I've built 7 coils between the B deck and the W deck using different gauges thinking it was something I was doing wrong.
It's vaping fine, just a lot warmer and the temp stays around 270 degrees. It's totally off the mark. And I just took another hit and now it's down to 22ohms.
It seems to be going down, which is good. Weird. I'm just going to keep vaping on it and see what happens. Something happened when I changed the decks out. And it's going to drive me crazy if I can't figure it out.
Assuming the atty has sat for 10 minutes before firing to reach room temp then I'm guessing it's your connections. The wraps around the posts and the 510's at either end.. Yes, I know you are a pro, hell aren't we all a pro /lol /joke but the fact remains that connections are everything. If my guess is wrong then try this as the last resort: ignore the numbers and vape your build.
That is, after all the bottom line isn't it? The vape! Trust me, I've got battle scars from 10/2014 as an early adopter. The things we did. The things we tried. LOL All with a glitchy chip and no one around other than early adopters. HA! The blind leading the blind.
Good luck and hope it works out.
EDIT: Saw your latest post. Remember that the DNA40 "normalizes" automatically which will change the numbers as it adjusts and calibrates itself. That's the way it's supposed to work
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The thing is I've used this atty for months with nickel and it was always so stable and predictable. I know it's ins and outs and quirks when it comes to nickel. It was my go to it was so stable. Then I changed the deck and it changed.
The last build I put on it, I let it set an hour before I hit fire, hoping it would normalize. That's when it displayed .24 ohm's and I knew that wasn't right. And to be honest I don't know why it just dropped to .22 after hitting it a couple times. But after hitting it for a couple hours now, it's still at .22ohms.
My issues and question is - what happened to my favorite atty after changing the deck. And just right after changing the deck. I get how important it is to have rock solid connections. And I've always loved building on this because you can get solid connections with the posts and nickel. It just snugs them right up.
Something really changed that every build at every gauge has a base reading that's almost .10 ohm's higher than it should be. That's what I'm trying to figure out. I think somehow my base is adding the additional resistance. And this happened right after changing decks.
I'm going rip it all apart tomorrow, washer up good and just let it sit and completely air dry and build it again and we'll see where it ends up. Now I wish I never would have changed that damn deck.
I guess if it wouldn't have been so stable for so long, I wouldn't feel so perplexed. THANKS for all the input tho guys.
The last build I put on it, I let it set an hour before I hit fire, hoping it would normalize. That's when it displayed .24 ohm's and I knew that wasn't right. And to be honest I don't know why it just dropped to .22 after hitting it a couple times. But after hitting it for a couple hours now, it's still at .22ohms.
My issues and question is - what happened to my favorite atty after changing the deck. And just right after changing the deck. I get how important it is to have rock solid connections. And I've always loved building on this because you can get solid connections with the posts and nickel. It just snugs them right up.
Something really changed that every build at every gauge has a base reading that's almost .10 ohm's higher than it should be. That's what I'm trying to figure out. I think somehow my base is adding the additional resistance. And this happened right after changing decks.
I'm going rip it all apart tomorrow, washer up good and just let it sit and completely air dry and build it again and we'll see where it ends up. Now I wish I never would have changed that damn deck.
I guess if it wouldn't have been so stable for so long, I wouldn't feel so perplexed. THANKS for all the input tho guys.
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