Orion V2 roll call

[JollyRogers]

Not sure where the borderlands are located But I am in the middle of an order right now for what you are asking about:

Springs : McMaster-Carr
Nuts : McMaster-Carr
Washers: McMaster-Carr
Insulator/shoulder washer : McMaster-Carr

 

[shooter445]

Quick question jolly, the insulators on mcmaster carr are for a no.2 screw not m2. Are no.2 and m2 the same?

 

[nj1001]

I'm loving the form and function, but not the looks as it is taller then the original, but the finish is great! Threading wise, it is a bit difficult and not as smooth as compared to the original cap, but to me, it is just a small matter.

Everything else, I get to fit in my not so great looking drip tip. I also don't have to sand the original tanks down to get it to be alligned with the wick hole. Now, as for the original top cap, since I have 2 top caps, I will mod the stock cap to a 1/16.

I suggest those who haven't got it, to get it! I mean, wouldn't a spare top cap be good just in case something goes wrong... Speaking of which, could anyone give me advise about where I can get spare washers, springs, m2 nuts (those on the DID fit, but then I need some spares as well) and insulators? My hands aren't so good with small parts and I tend to lose a lot of parts D: thanks in advance for the help

Are we talking about bograt's cap which accepts a drip tip or Sotong's shield which also covers the tank?

 

[JollyRogers]

Quick question jolly, the insulators on mcmaster carr are for a no.2 screw not m2. Are no.2 and m2 the same?

I have no idea. I just hope they are the right size and will find out soon enough. I ordered based off this post http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/280573-orion-v2-roll-call-220.html#post7619642 on those so I could order everything at one place. If not I know were to order some others.

 

[shooter445]

Yea, they have the m2x3 and thr nuts on amazon, but the washers are through another seller on amazon so would have to pay double shipping

 

[JollyRogers]

Was actually shopping for 7mm x 10mm silicone tubing for my peter K Vaper, and threw the rest of the stuff in. That is why I use McMaster-Carr.

You get the nylon 6/6 shoulder washers, and I can trade you some nuts/washers for a few. Need to find the silicone tubing Les uses for a seal on the positive post. I got those dimensions, but couldn't find anything like it.

 

[Crack3dOne]

Is it a type of shrink wrap that he used? Just had my friends orion apart to see why the was juice in the switch bay. Seemed like thats what it was.

As far as the shoulder washers go, I converted the metric sizes of the shoulder washers you found on the site and United Kingdom, and they match up very well to the 6/6 washers on McMaster Carr.

Sent from my Samsung S III running on SS mesh and kanthal.

 

[JollyRogers]

Is it a type of shrink wrap that he used? Just had my friends orion apart to see why the was juice in the switch bay. Seemed like thats what it was.

As far as the shoulder washers go, I converted the metric sizes of the shoulder washers you found on the site and United Kingdom, and they match up very well to the 6/6 washers on McMaster Carr.

Sent from my Samsung S III running on SS mesh and kanthal.

Thanks man for the feedback. I just trusted you and didn't do the conversions...

What shrink wrap??? You mean heat shrink? Pailpoe & Les used single o-rings, then double o-rings, then the 1.8mm x 3.5mm tubing (guessing on that size off the top of my head... please don't consider it a reference). The M2 post has heat shrink on it on all of them running from the switch up to about 3/4 on the older switches and halfway on the newer ones that have the silicon tube...

 

[Crack3dOne]

There was no tubing on the orion I just took apart. I got an extra switch to have in case a few weeks ago and it came with the tubing. My friends did not have the tubing on it. Maybe thats why its leaking into the switch bay? We bought it used from someone here on the forum.....

Yes, I meant heat shrink.

Sent from my Samsung S III running on SS mesh and kanthal.

 

[JollyRogers]

His had heat shrink and o-rings. If it didn't have o-rings, that would explain a lot. If your new switch has the silicon tubing and you are putting it into one without it. You are best to chamfer the hole with a drill before pushing it in, as per the directions Les provided. Otherwise you risk tearing up the silicone tubing that is used for the seal. Ask me how I know.

PS: PM'd you regarding your classy listing.

 

[Whoopin]

Are we talking about bograt's cap which accepts a drip tip or Sotong's shield which also covers the tank?

Yes we are talking about the bograt cap

 

[arjhomel00]

Just got my orion today. Well I'm still on the learning curve and poppings coils every 5mins haha. Is the nylon tube in the wick hole really needed? Anyway any tips for newbies here? or what page/s specifically? Hoping for your answers!

 

[emonty]

Just go my orion today. Well I'm still on the learning curve and poppings coils every 5mins haha. Is the nylon tube in the wick hole really needed? Anyway any tips for newbies here? or what page/s specifically? Hoping for your answers!

nylon tube in wick hole is not standard. did you get it on the classies?

 

[arjhomel00]

nylon tube in wick hole is not standard. did you get it on the classies?

I got it from a shop as a brandnew and it doesn't have a nylon tube with it. Just wanna know if it really helps to avoid hot spots?

 

[emonty]

I got it from a shop as a brandnew and it doesn't have a nylon tube with it. Just wanna know if it really helps to avoid hot spots?

Not needed, practice to get your wick/coils perfect. The design is not to have the insulator as you will have a much thinner wick and different results.There is loads of information on the ECF and youtube on how to set up your unit. good luck! If you get it right, the best flavor will come to you ;-)

 

[JollyRogers]

A trick to help prevent popping coils. Try doing a pre-made coil, wrapping it around a small screwdriver shaft that fits down into your wick hole. Then after oxidizing (btw I only torch my mesh before I roll, nothing else) and preparing your wick, roll it so that it will slide into your coil with just the slightest amount of resistance. Some call this the petar k method, but what I am doing is a combination of petar k and jack frost method. Wick should be about even with center post, and almost but not touching base of tank. After dropping wick in, QUICK dry burn to check for shorts (use a weaker batter). You may need to turn or lift wick slightly to get rid of a short - all coils should glow slightly. I do not move coils around though. Also, may need to tighten top nut on Orion just a tad. On a stock Orion, I wrap all my coils high and tight to keep it up near the air hole.

1. This method helps prevents tension on that top and bottom coil wrap.
2. It is not tight in the wick hole, so less chance of shorts there.

I actually do this with a solid #500 mesh (50mm wide x 40mm tall piece) with pretty good results on my Orions and DiD. Do something similar with a fatter wick (100mm) on my Zens. If using #325 or #400, you may not get that much mesh to roll down. Just trim it.

 

[Whoopin]

I just keep it simple and it works 9 out of 10 times on my Orion.

Blast the mesh x2-3
Roll
Put your choice of coil setup (be it a twisted coil or single coil)

Works for me everything. Be careful not to wrap your coils too tight, but make sure they are touching the mesh. Also, if you're having problems with the top coil, try adjusting it, or adjusting the springs. I recommend to change to brass nuts as they make better contact; those on the DID works fine

 

[Marob]

This post is both a confession of stupidity and a call for help....

Last night I went to meet some friends for a drink and decided to take the Orion out in 18350 mode. I took a couple of spare batteries as well in my coat as I didn't know how much charge I had and I was in a bit of a rush. Anyway, I had batteries in one pocket, Orion in another and some loose change in a third.

Got to the bar, coat off. Orion ran out of charge so got the batteries out and change one. Put the other two in a jeans pocket.

Finished at the bar, paid up and put the change in the same pocket as the batteries without thinking. Got my stuff together, walked out and put, stupidly, the Orion in with both....

I'm walking home (my senses not a their fullest) and I feel my thigh start to.... itch... I put my hand in and it's met by a burning hot combination of discharging batteries, coins and the Orion. I empty everything out quickly and let it all cool off. The battery in the Orion is looking fine but one in my pocket has melted away some of the plastic coating near the ends. Lucky escape.

I get home and notice the Orion now has burnt 'scars' on one side, look like corroded or rusted metal. Everything is working fine, it's only cosmetic, but it sucks.

I wanted to firstly apologies for my stupidity with such a finely made PV and dangerous batteries and secondly ask if anyone has any idea if there is a way to clean the outside of the Orion up a little. I've attached a picture..

.......Sorry

 

[Turbo]

Ahh, the old change in the pocket... sorry to hear. I'm OCD about not doing that but it's easy to forget! As for cleaning, maybe a metal finisher or jeweler could help maintain the satin finish? Someone may chime in w/ a better idea but I'd be careful trying to polish it.

 

[JollyRogers]

Hmmm. Usually bier and Orion go very well together!!! But not batteries,bier, Orion and coins!!!

Me, I would chalk it up as a battle scar. Then maybe look into contacting Les (nosmoker), he is Deutsch after all, and ask for his advice.