Ovale V8 VV discussion!
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Mamma mia! Now that's-a some spicy meat-a-ball-a! Thanks cool. I can actually understand him. (Oh thanks dearest Dad who made me study Italian!)
On a more determined listen, I'm a bit confused on the menu.
On a more determined listen, I'm a bit confused on the menu.
Mamma mia! Now that's-a some spicy meat-a-ball-a! Thanks cool. I can actually understand him. (Oh thanks dearest Dad who made me study Italian!)
On a more determined listen, I'm a bit confused on the menu.
Yes, I had to make notes AND refer to the information on the Discount Vapers site.
Aghhh... OK Cool, you got my attention 
. I guess I need a new upgraded one. Mine finally gave me the dreaded 5.0 flash yesterday. When I opened it up to see if I had got liquid inside or whatever, I broke off one of those micro wires by accident. Just not too keen on the ugly black rubber...
P.S. I still have my grey one unused it the box.... Not sure if I NEED a new one.
. I guess I need a new upgraded one. Mine finally gave me the dreaded 5.0 flash yesterday. When I opened it up to see if I had got liquid inside or whatever, I broke off one of those micro wires by accident. Just not too keen on the ugly black rubber...P.S. I still have my grey one unused it the box.... Not sure if I NEED a new one.
Aghhh... OK Cool, you got my attention
P.S. I still have my grey one unused it the box.... Not sure if I NEED a new one.
I kind of like the rubberized black, doesn't pick up finger prints and it not as slick in the hand. One thing about the rubberized finish that I don't like, it does wear off. Happy vaping.
Aghhh... OK Cool, you got my attention
P.S. I still have my grey one unused it the box.... Not sure if I NEED a new one.
dragonbone, my friend, I do think you need another. If an unfortunate circumstance happened with you grey one, it would be wise to have a backup, least you have to rely on some lesser product to pursue your vape.
There is an alternative. I can solder and may be able to reattach the dismounted wire. Two way shipping might be a concern. There are pink and white...maybe blue ones available via China, Inc...maybe Europe. I don't know if those have the '2013' electronics.
Or, perhaps you could take the guts out of a new black one an install them in your oh so nice, yellow/gold body. The rubber ones do feel so nice in the hand though.
As Eric mentioned in his updated review, the view through the front window is perhaps not as nice. I will examine mine to see if the legs of the chip can be easily conceal with black tape or perhaps black paint. Of course I will perform a bottom modification that the new unit won't dance on my desktop.
Mine is expected to arrive on Thursday.
Cool, keep us posted! I have one in my cart, but I'm also hesitant because of the black rubber.
Would love a gold one (like yours DB) or a shiny white.
Would love a gold one (like yours DB) or a shiny white.
Why do some men like black rubber?
OK... never mind.
Thanks Cool! I'll wait for you to get yours then hear your opinion. I think I would like an upgraded version. I love these things. Looking back to the start of this thread, I see that I have been using my gold one for more than a year now! I can't believe it has lasted so long.
Regarding the window. How about a little tinted film cut to size, and fitted on from inside the unit? The display LED will still shine through. I was actually going to do that with mine long ago, when I considered blinging it, but never got around to it.
Katdarling, sorry I never followed through checking out alibaba etc. last time. I must go see whats going on there. A thought.... Can't you maybe convince Eric to get a couple of colored ones just for us?
OK... never mind
.Thanks Cool! I'll wait for you to get yours then hear your opinion. I think I would like an upgraded version. I love these things. Looking back to the start of this thread, I see that I have been using my gold one for more than a year now! I can't believe it has lasted so long.
Regarding the window. How about a little tinted film cut to size, and fitted on from inside the unit? The display LED will still shine through. I was actually going to do that with mine long ago, when I considered blinging it, but never got around to it.
Katdarling, sorry I never followed through checking out alibaba etc. last time. I must go see whats going on there. A thought.... Can't you maybe convince Eric to get a couple of colored ones just for us?
When I get mine and perform enhancements, I'll see if I can't document them with photos and text.
dragonbone - I'm not sure if yours is an Ohms reading model. As a carto rebuilder, Ohms are an important matter to me. Having that feature saves a lot of back and forth to an Ohm meter with the carto...taking off V8, connecting to Ohm meter, and back to V8.
dragonbone - I'm not sure if yours is an Ohms reading model. As a carto rebuilder, Ohms are an important matter to me. Having that feature saves a lot of back and forth to an Ohm meter with the carto...taking off V8, connecting to Ohm meter, and back to V8.
Why do some men like black rubber?
OK... never mind
Thanks Cool! I'll wait for you to get yours then hear your opinion. I think I would like an upgraded version. I love these things. Looking back to the start of this thread, I see that I have been using my gold one for more than a year now! I can't believe it has lasted so long.
Regarding the window. How about a little tinted film cut to size, and fitted on from inside the unit? The display LED will still shine through. I was actually going to do that with mine long ago, when I considered blinging it, but never got around to it.
Katdarling, sorry I never followed through checking out alibaba etc. last time. I must go see whats going on there. A thought.... Can't you maybe convince Eric to get a couple of colored ones just for us?
Yes, I'm waiting to hear what you think too, Cool. Let us know soon as you can.
Welp, dragon, it's all a question of sales. For some reason (that I completely do not understand), the Ovale is OUR little best kept secret and doesn't seem to cause massive excitement in the vape world and therefore is lower in sales. Eric said they only make the rubber one now, due to sales. Let's face it. Vapers are beginning to draw lines in the sand. Most of us are either gung ho RBA/Mech style vapers, or old school carto tank/clearo vapers. I suppose that identifies someone who would want to vape on an Ovale as being old school.
I'm rather proud of that designation actually! Hmmm... think I'll change my user title...
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My Ovale V8 arrived today.
OUTSIDE - The body isn't chanded in any noticable way from previous models.
If you've seen a picture, you know the display is changed. The new blue display is no longer the LED type, but rather OLED I think. It is likely a very simliar display as that used in other mods. The display board is significantly smaller than the previous ones. It features dark blue numerals against a light blue back lit background. The numerals are quite a bit smaller than those of the previous red LEDs. About half as high and half as wide, they occupy about 1/4th the area. Smaller yet are the V, A, W and Ω indications...quite tiny.
No adaptation appear to have been made to the case to accomodate the smaller display. It sets back from the resting position of the former display by a good 1/16". This seems largely due the the thickness of the display element being not nearly as deep as the former. As can be seen in pictures, the mounting pins on the display are clearly visible though the front view window. It could certain stand some dressing up.
I found the clear lens over the display had a chip out along one of the edges. It was a clear flaw when viewing the lit display, though not too serious. I removed the lens and found it had a slight pink coloration, rather than clear. In removing the lenses from my 2 other Ovale V8s, I found each also had a chip in the edge, though lesser in magnitude. As well, all 3 are slighly misformed being thicker at one side than the other. The lens was also a bit obscure. If you look at the enlarged photo here - Sigelei V8 Incremental VV Body - Black Rubberized you can see the lack of clarity. Fortunately, it is not as bad as would seem in the photo. Yet is is enough to obscure the fine print of the display. The numerals are okay to see, but the very tiny V, A, W and Ω indications are but a blur. An attempt to polish the lens accomplished some improvement, but not a lot. All three of my lenses have some obsucrity with them. In the case of the earlier LED displays, it is not much of a concern. I chose the clearest of the 3 to put back into the new model.
For indoor use, the display lighting level is fine. I have yet to have it outdoors, but I do wonder.
INDSIDE - The circuit board seems entirely new. Actually, it is a little smaller and there is a daughterboard on top of the motherboard. It seems that the buck circuitry has been beefed up a bit and is the main constituent of the daughterboard. The motherboard is primaraly the display, logic and switches. The boards are red rather than the khaki color of earlier boards. The wiring to the battery compartment and the device base connector is larger guage than previous versions. The carto/atty connector seems the same as earlier models.
FUNCTIONS - The unit works pretty much as indicated in previous postings. While it will display the Wattage, is is clearly not a VW device. I say that as there is no way to change the Wattage other than to change the Voltage. One can set the display to read Watts when the fire button is pushed, but pushing the +/- buttons will change and display the Voltage. As well, I would expect a VW device to not only have a settable Wattage, but a constand Wattage as well, meaning that the Wattage would stay constant even if one changed the resistance of the atty/carto.
The 'puffs counter' works fine. It adds into the count the presses one does when changing the display settings. As best I can tell, one can set the display for any of the choices and leave it there. That display choice will show when one presses the fire button. Pessing the +/- buttons will continue to change the Voltage and show those as you change. Back in regular fire mode, it will defulat to the selected display mode.
BOTTOM LINE - Dispite the awkwardness of the display mechanics, it's still our good value little jewel. Reading the display at a glance may take a 2nd glance. While clearly not VW, the addition of Amperage and Wattage display may be an asset to some. As well, we can assay either overall battery Voltage or Voltage to the atty/carto. These are nice little additions, but don't change the game a whole lot. I'd like to see Sigelei clean up the display fit a bit. It might be good to stand the display up off of the motherboard to make it flush with where the LED display had been. Some cleanup around the edges would be useful as well as concealing the legs of the display package. While a display with larger numerals would be nice, I wonder if that could happen. Sigelei should polish their lenses. The Ovale V8 remains a good nominal $30 (body only) value. I'll continue to hold a good thought for various colors.
The above comments are preliminary and subject to revision.
OUTSIDE - The body isn't chanded in any noticable way from previous models.
If you've seen a picture, you know the display is changed. The new blue display is no longer the LED type, but rather OLED I think. It is likely a very simliar display as that used in other mods. The display board is significantly smaller than the previous ones. It features dark blue numerals against a light blue back lit background. The numerals are quite a bit smaller than those of the previous red LEDs. About half as high and half as wide, they occupy about 1/4th the area. Smaller yet are the V, A, W and Ω indications...quite tiny.
No adaptation appear to have been made to the case to accomodate the smaller display. It sets back from the resting position of the former display by a good 1/16". This seems largely due the the thickness of the display element being not nearly as deep as the former. As can be seen in pictures, the mounting pins on the display are clearly visible though the front view window. It could certain stand some dressing up.
I found the clear lens over the display had a chip out along one of the edges. It was a clear flaw when viewing the lit display, though not too serious. I removed the lens and found it had a slight pink coloration, rather than clear. In removing the lenses from my 2 other Ovale V8s, I found each also had a chip in the edge, though lesser in magnitude. As well, all 3 are slighly misformed being thicker at one side than the other. The lens was also a bit obscure. If you look at the enlarged photo here - Sigelei V8 Incremental VV Body - Black Rubberized you can see the lack of clarity. Fortunately, it is not as bad as would seem in the photo. Yet is is enough to obscure the fine print of the display. The numerals are okay to see, but the very tiny V, A, W and Ω indications are but a blur. An attempt to polish the lens accomplished some improvement, but not a lot. All three of my lenses have some obsucrity with them. In the case of the earlier LED displays, it is not much of a concern. I chose the clearest of the 3 to put back into the new model.
For indoor use, the display lighting level is fine. I have yet to have it outdoors, but I do wonder.
INDSIDE - The circuit board seems entirely new. Actually, it is a little smaller and there is a daughterboard on top of the motherboard. It seems that the buck circuitry has been beefed up a bit and is the main constituent of the daughterboard. The motherboard is primaraly the display, logic and switches. The boards are red rather than the khaki color of earlier boards. The wiring to the battery compartment and the device base connector is larger guage than previous versions. The carto/atty connector seems the same as earlier models.
FUNCTIONS - The unit works pretty much as indicated in previous postings. While it will display the Wattage, is is clearly not a VW device. I say that as there is no way to change the Wattage other than to change the Voltage. One can set the display to read Watts when the fire button is pushed, but pushing the +/- buttons will change and display the Voltage. As well, I would expect a VW device to not only have a settable Wattage, but a constand Wattage as well, meaning that the Wattage would stay constant even if one changed the resistance of the atty/carto.
The 'puffs counter' works fine. It adds into the count the presses one does when changing the display settings. As best I can tell, one can set the display for any of the choices and leave it there. That display choice will show when one presses the fire button. Pessing the +/- buttons will continue to change the Voltage and show those as you change. Back in regular fire mode, it will defulat to the selected display mode.
BOTTOM LINE - Dispite the awkwardness of the display mechanics, it's still our good value little jewel. Reading the display at a glance may take a 2nd glance. While clearly not VW, the addition of Amperage and Wattage display may be an asset to some. As well, we can assay either overall battery Voltage or Voltage to the atty/carto. These are nice little additions, but don't change the game a whole lot. I'd like to see Sigelei clean up the display fit a bit. It might be good to stand the display up off of the motherboard to make it flush with where the LED display had been. Some cleanup around the edges would be useful as well as concealing the legs of the display package. While a display with larger numerals would be nice, I wonder if that could happen. Sigelei should polish their lenses. The Ovale V8 remains a good nominal $30 (body only) value. I'll continue to hold a good thought for various colors.
The above comments are preliminary and subject to revision.
Cool, that was a fantastic review. I prolly would have said, "I like it." 
Seriously you took the details to another level. I'm really glad to hear all the facts about the device from your perspective. And I do agree that our little 30 dollar gem is still a gem.
Vape Ovale Happy~~
Seriously you took the details to another level. I'm really glad to hear all the facts about the device from your perspective. And I do agree that our little 30 dollar gem is still a gem.
Vape Ovale Happy~~
Oh... I see what you mean regarding the display window. Not nice. I wonder what they were thinking.
Thanks or the awesome detailed review Cool!
Thanks or the awesome detailed review Cool!
Nice review, Cool Breeze.
I see they didn't upgrade the only fault I ever had with the Segelei V8, and that was the flimsy springs in the battery compartment.
I see they didn't upgrade the only fault I ever had with the Segelei V8, and that was the flimsy springs in the battery compartment.
Hi All. I hope this is the right place to ask this question. Right now I am trying to decide between the V8 and V6 version of this mod. I know the V8 has greater flexibility for vv and also a vw checker. I'm also assuming the bigger batteries will provide longer battery life. However I like the smaller form of the V6 as well as the partially recessed clearomizer.
I've been vaping for about a year using pretty basic stuff. Currently I'm using 900 mah non vv ego batteries or a bolt so any type of vv will be a step up for me. If anyone could give me their opinions I would appreciate it. Also what type of clearomizers do you recommend for each mod. Thanks!
I've been vaping for about a year using pretty basic stuff. Currently I'm using 900 mah non vv ego batteries or a bolt so any type of vv will be a step up for me. If anyone could give me their opinions I would appreciate it. Also what type of clearomizers do you recommend for each mod. Thanks!
I just got my leather lanyard for my V8 from discountvapers. It fits perfect really nice quality. Now I can carry it in my pocket and not lean over and drop it.
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Considering how limited a V6 is - 3 fixed voltages & no display - if you are moving up from fixed voltage batteries and want VV I would skip right over a V6 and get any version of the V8 instead. For the very little difference in price between the two I just can't see much sense in getting a V6 if these are the two choices on the table. V6? 3 voltage choices. V8? Any voltage in range you care to try in 0.1 volt increments.
Regarding clearos, it's all a matter of personsal style and preference. The V6 or V8 really won't care - with one exception: V8's don't work with low resistance devices. You want to use a clearo - or any other device - that's 2.0 ohms or higher. Some folks in here do report getting a V8 to work with 1.8 ohm devices but there no guarantee on that. Below 1.8 ohm? Just won't fire as the V8 built in protection sees that as a shorted device. Dunno if this applies to the V6 as well.
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Last 6 month i'm on the mech and genesis, i'm using my V8 in lanyard around neck when I drive because i want to keep my teeth, with mech and gen this can be dangerous
But my V8 works perfectly with LR setup, even on Gen style atty, tested on 1.3 ohm min resistance, i didn't go below this. It kills batteries very fast with LR setup, i have to use IMR batteries when i go on low resistance. Recently I bought some efest 18350 nipple top and they works perfectly, I'm using them on mechanical mod and V8.
BTW my mech mod is also sigelei #13a, i bought 2. pieces and this is a best thing i ever used. Also have 2. Sigelei kick clones, but I'm not using them, there is no need with Genesis style attys and setup is little tricky with 13a because upper tube inner diameter is higher (thread is on upper tube) there are other Sigelei telescope mech mods where thread is on down tube and this are probably better for kick.
But my V8 works perfectly with LR setup, even on Gen style atty, tested on 1.3 ohm min resistance, i didn't go below this. It kills batteries very fast with LR setup, i have to use IMR batteries when i go on low resistance. Recently I bought some efest 18350 nipple top and they works perfectly, I'm using them on mechanical mod and V8.
BTW my mech mod is also sigelei #13a, i bought 2. pieces and this is a best thing i ever used. Also have 2. Sigelei kick clones, but I'm not using them, there is no need with Genesis style attys and setup is little tricky with 13a because upper tube inner diameter is higher (thread is on upper tube) there are other Sigelei telescope mech mods where thread is on down tube and this are probably better for kick.
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