Oh yeah, you are correct. Just found some with meters on them. Costs a little bit more than the v8, though, but you might be getting a better built unit with higher QC.
Ovale V8 VV discussion!
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Oh yeah, you are correct. Just found some with meters on them. Costs a little bit more than the v8, though, but you might be getting a better built unit with higher QC.
I like the idea of the evercool mods, but the only thing I don't like is that there is no display. For the money, I am going with a V8 next to get that cool display and PWM. Seems that the batteries on the V8 last FOREVER with PWM. Never had a PV that lastet me more than the first part of the day... My 900mah Twist gets me from wake up to right before I leave to go home.. Not a horrible thing now that I have two Twists
I get 2 days out of my V8. Its so awesome!!!
Sorry, haven't made it to the forum for a bit... I'll do it shortly.Yes please!!!
Re finding 18350 batteries:
My Little Chuck takes those. Here are a variety of sources (with different mAh)
MadVapes has two -- UltraFire (blue ones on first page) and TrustFire (next page). Both are 1200 mAh
LightHound carries the AWs (700 mAh). The code CPF gets you a 2% discount.
The AW manufacturer sells directly on the CandlePower Forum
Most of the battery sites such as BatteryJunction only carry the unprotected UltraFire. Those are the orange ones. If you get UltraFire, only buy the blue ones.)
I have the blue UltraFires (from Mad Vapes.) They work well. I hate having to change batteries more than once a day so I will always go with the higher mAh (as long as they are protected.) Both UltraFire and TrustFire are known for measuring their batteries in a way that produces a higher mAh rating than you will probably get in real life, but the 1200 mAh ones do last well.
My Little Chuck takes those. Here are a variety of sources (with different mAh)
MadVapes has two -- UltraFire (blue ones on first page) and TrustFire (next page). Both are 1200 mAh
LightHound carries the AWs (700 mAh). The code CPF gets you a 2% discount.
The AW manufacturer sells directly on the CandlePower Forum
Most of the battery sites such as BatteryJunction only carry the unprotected UltraFire. Those are the orange ones. If you get UltraFire, only buy the blue ones.)
I have the blue UltraFires (from Mad Vapes.) They work well. I hate having to change batteries more than once a day so I will always go with the higher mAh (as long as they are protected.) Both UltraFire and TrustFire are known for measuring their batteries in a way that produces a higher mAh rating than you will probably get in real life, but the 1200 mAh ones do last well.
Ovale V8 grey
Sweet, I likey the color! What's that drip tip? Is it on a CE4?
Not all of the 18350 batteries work in the V8. They need to have a button like the AW IMR battery in order to make contact.. They fit the best too. It is also highly recommended to use only IMR Batteries on VV devices.
Every time I think I've figured out what's going on with batteries, they confuse me again. While all 3 of the batteries I linked to do have the button, both the Trustfire and UltraFire are Li-ion, not IMR.Not all of the 18350 batteries work in the V8. They need to have a button like the AW IMR battery in order to make contact.. They fit the best too. It is also highly recommended to use only IMR Batteries on VV devices.
Why should one only use IMR batteries for VV?
They say it is because of the stress VV and higher voltages puts on the Batteries plus the discharge rating is better. I'm not a batt guy but I've just read where IMR's are much safer especially for VV.
I know what you mean about battery info changing. Looks like we joined at the same time and things have really changed over the last 2 1/2 years haven't they. You would think protected batteries would be safer but not the case so the experts say!
I know what you mean about battery info changing. Looks like we joined at the same time and things have really changed over the last 2 1/2 years haven't they. You would think protected batteries would be safer but not the case so the experts say!
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Found some more sources for IMR (I get nuts about stuff like that)
Cheaper than the AWs with about the same mAh, but generic (and I think with the nipple top):
IMR 18350 Batteries, 800 mAh, Rechargeable, Chemicaly Safe
This place has quite a few, cheap, but, of course, you'll have to wait for shipping from China (as you will if you order AWs directly from the company.)
Wholesale 18350- China Wholesale 18350 Electronics from China
Just Google "18350 IMR battery" and you'll get a zillion hits, mostly from e-cigarette vendors. I came across a bunch of eFest brand ones that are "IMR 18350 Rechargeable Li-ion Battery." I can't tell if they are nipple top or not from the pictures but they are under $5. (ETA: Some of the eFests are "IMR 18350 Rechargeable Li-Mn." Still not filling me with confidence.)
Cheaper than the AWs with about the same mAh, but generic (and I think with the nipple top):
IMR 18350 Batteries, 800 mAh, Rechargeable, Chemicaly Safe
This place has quite a few, cheap, but, of course, you'll have to wait for shipping from China (as you will if you order AWs directly from the company.)
Wholesale 18350- China Wholesale 18350 Electronics from China
Just Google "18350 IMR battery" and you'll get a zillion hits, mostly from e-cigarette vendors. I came across a bunch of eFest brand ones that are "IMR 18350 Rechargeable Li-ion Battery." I can't tell if they are nipple top or not from the pictures but they are under $5. (ETA: Some of the eFests are "IMR 18350 Rechargeable Li-Mn." Still not filling me with confidence.)
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It really depends on the application. If you're using a boosted pv with one battery it's recommended to ALWAYS go with IMR.
IMR batteries have a higher C rating which means they are capable of a higher current draw. In a PV with a boosted circut we're asking a single battery to deliver more voltage than it's rated for. Basically current is converted to voltage to get there so the extra current capability of IMR is needed.
With 2 batteries in series like we have here and most other vvs that use a 2 batt configuration it comes down mostly to size. Protected 18650s have a high enough current capability so you could use either in that situation. With smaller batteries like 16340, 14500 and 18350 I'd still recommend going IMR especially using dual core with it. If you were going to stay with regular ohm and single core then protected would be fine.
No matter which way you go I'd recommend going with AW over Trust or UltraFire, much better batteries no matter what the mah ratings say. AW has been tested to be more accurate with their ratings and that can be found most anywhere.
Thanks. I ordered a V8. When it comes I'll give it a test run with my non-IMR blue UltraFires but it will have to be a very limited test (not IMR and not a matched set.) My apartment is beginning to look like a battery factory. I have 801s, 510s, mega 510s, assorted eGo/Riva/etc., 18650s, 18350s, 16340s, and my favorite (no long available) mod uses rechargeable AAs.
ETA: I forgot the CR123s
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uuuhh, never run un-matched pairs of batteries in any device. This is a huge no no and can cause you severe harm. The batteries run through each other and the difference in the batteries could cause one to heat up. Please take this into consideration when operating dual battery devices.
From my understanding, they are high drain batteries and are just the best recommended batteries to be able to withstand 3-6 volts. The AW IMRs have the best performance, unless your mod takes an 18650 and then I would go with the Panny 2200 mah. I have seen great things about those!!
Yea, bad idea. If you like your v8 I wouldmt suggest doing this as it can malfunction and may even put you in harms way!!!
I know what you mean about a battery factory I'm looking the same here! lol Throw in three different types of 18650's, 14650 and 18500's to go with the ones you mentioned and you have my collecton of mod batteries but I'm not going to dare mention my regular pv batteries. lol
Plus I have 6 more 18650 Panny batteries coming in a co-op.
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I'm talking about 3 or 4 puffs, not coming close to draining those puppies. (ETA: 2 sets of batteries are going to cost as much as the V8 did. I just want to know if I like it. Then I'll put it away for a few days -- LightHound delivers fast.)
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Have any V8 users who thought that 3.0V was still too much volts for something found a solution to cool the vape? An adapter that just happens to take a few tenths of a volt off or something? I seem to remember people having to run stuff at 3.0v with the V8 when I read here a while back due to PWM making it run hotter. This is the only place I saw this ever mentioned.
I bought a lavatube 1.5t which uses PWM which is different from 1.0 I believe. Anyway I drop my lavatube down to 3.0 volts and it is still to hot to run my favorite flavor on my favorite cartomizer. I could up the ohms of the carto but then I'm buying different cartos for each of my different devices... this gets expensive as well as confusing.
I bought a lavatube 1.5t which uses PWM which is different from 1.0 I believe. Anyway I drop my lavatube down to 3.0 volts and it is still to hot to run my favorite flavor on my favorite cartomizer. I could up the ohms of the carto but then I'm buying different cartos for each of my different devices... this gets expensive as well as confusing.
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