That's what I was thinking. Since the zenith delrin top isn't affected by the heat, then why not just make a whole topper from Delrin? I've been trying to do some research on Delrin's melting point and toxicity. So far, the material limits I found far exceeds vape operating limits. I still need to do some research on what chemicals might leech out at lower temps ( 200 - 300 F ). But I was thinking that if the zenith delrin top cap can be right on top of the coil, then why not just make a whole cap out of the thing. It should be so much cheaper than stainless.
PDIB's Making MODs!
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Noted for future use, I was unaware of that.
Wait for him to confirm or specify his "technique". This was specifically in relation to the display going wonky, and recovering.
You know you can make a Delrin top with a regular 3D printer and a CAD drawing right? My son's got a friend who made his own little 3D printer from some internet directions
. Or you can just get one of these companies to do it: Delrin | www.3dsystems.com
The thing is, if you vape a lot, your tank can get pretty hot. If Delrin is only rated for 200-300 degrees, that's kinda dangerous for fumes no?
There are different types of Delrin for all sorts of applications - some may not need high temperature resistance as others. Some food grade Delrin has a melting point of 350 F. The Delrin used on zenith is rated to 400 C or 752 F, and I just found out from Delrin that the only time it fumes nasty gases is when it boils.
You know you can make a Delrin top with a regular 3D printer and a CAD drawing right? My son's got a friend who made his own little 3D printer from some internet directions
Delrin | www.3dsystems.com
The thing is, if you vape a lot, your tank can get pretty hot. If Delrin is only rated for 200-300 degrees, that's kinda dangerous for fumes no?
Well, I just remembered that I have a Delrin soap mold... which I THINK was also sold as a baking mold (don't remember). If it's the same stuff, you can cut it with a knife... meaning you could CARVE a top out of it (using dremel bits...carving with a knife might take a while) .
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Hey Pdib, are you sure that I didn't get the dibi #42?
1. My OliveR is SUPER "shi ni" (shiny),
2. My name is Matt,
3. I'm a Wildcard and a Character.
Yup, it was probably me.
I've killed a total of 3 dna's so far, 2 from juice damage and one just decided to skitz out the display and the logic and I never got it wet I think. I still have that dna in my metal reo, it still works fine but the display rarely works, although sometimes it just decides to work for a while then not, but the mod still works fine and I always leave it pinned at 20 watts anyway so I just leave that one as -is as a beater. distilled water does work to a certain extent, but the dna displays are very finicky and delicate and theres no guarantee that distilled water will always fix it, it usually works the first or second time but like I said the display is very finicky when it comes to juice
I got a dna30 for the dibi sitting right here if I do do it. I'm trying to find more dna30's but there almost impossible to find so far
I got a dna30 for the dibi sitting right here if I do do it. I'm trying to find more dna30's but there almost impossible to find so far
Hey Pdib, are you sure that I didn't get the dibi #42?
1. My OliveR is SUPER "shi ni" (shiny),
2. My name is Matt,
3. I'm a Wildcard and a Character.
Yup, it was probably me.
Well... seeing as how he didn't number em anyway, you can say yours is 42... but... if he doesn't write 37 on mine, I'm going to write 42 on it and say he did it! (shhhh)
I've killed a total of 3 dna's so far, 2 from juice damage and one just decided to skitz out the display and the logic and I never got it wet I think. I still have that dna in my metal reo, it still works fine but the display rarely works, although sometimes it just decides to work for a while then not, but the mod still works fine and I always leave it pinned at 20 watts anyway so I just leave that one as -is as a beater. distilled water does work to a certain extent, but the dna displays are very finicky and delicate and theres no guarantee that distilled water will always fix it, it usually works the first or second time but like I said the display is very finicky when it comes to juice
I got a dna30 for the dibi sitting right here if I do do it. I'm trying to find more dna30's but there almost impossible to find so far
Quick dumb question... didn't someone here say that you can epoxy circuit boards to waterproof them? That the only reason you wouldn't is heat... and why would your circuit board get hot?
If that's true, why can't you just squeeze some 2-part epoxy around the seams of your screen, and on all the connections so they can't short while you are looking for a cover? If you already bricked 3 of em from juice, in a matter of a month, wouldn't it be worth it to test the 4th one with epoxy
? Just saying... Speaking of epoxy, you may want to get the stuff they use for repairing windshield cracks, since it's UV protected, crystal clear, and very strong
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long story, I haven't killed 3 in one month though, the first one I killed was in a Vmod of all things, before I even ever got a reo that thing leaked like a .....
the second one was in my reo after I trashed the vmod, I had it relatively sealed but juice crept through the harness eventually. the third I didn't get wet at all yet it died after a few months all by itself
brandon from evolved says the boards already have a conformal coating so they shouldn't need any additional coating but I think the coating he uses may be good for moisture in general, but ejuice, not so much I've wanted to pot it in epoxy but brandon said that won't be a good idea, may stick the board buttons and then it would be useless. also there is a large mosfet that if it was sealed it could overheat and either ruin it or possibly even melt the soldered connections to the board. if it was encased in epoxy then you wouldn't be able to do anything at that point.
I bought a few different things to try but haven't yet, the best way to seal up a dna is to seal the compartment really. several manufacturers have had issues with this, hana mods had to alter the way there 510 sits and had to make a few other modifications to the box and futura has had some issues with juice making it past the 510 too, and these are not even bottom feeders... i'm being very careful with the woody and thankfully the divo doesn't really leak much if at all, the cyclone on the other hand is much more prone to leaking because of the 2 airholes, especially when there open a bit and also the cyclone air holes are very close to the deck but the divo has behaved very well when it comes to leaking juice so I've been ok up until now at least
that thing leaked like a .....
the second one was in my reo after I trashed the vmod, I had it relatively sealed but juice crept through the harness eventually. the third I didn't get wet at all yet it died after a few months all by itself
brandon from evolved says the boards already have a conformal coating so they shouldn't need any additional coating but I think the coating he uses may be good for moisture in general, but ejuice, not so much
I've wanted to pot it in epoxy but brandon said that won't be a good idea, may stick the board buttons and then it would be useless. also there is a large mosfet that if it was sealed it could overheat and either ruin it or possibly even melt the soldered connections to the board. if it was encased in epoxy then you wouldn't be able to do anything at that point.I bought a few different things to try but haven't yet, the best way to seal up a dna is to seal the compartment really. several manufacturers have had issues with this, hana mods had to alter the way there 510 sits and had to make a few other modifications to the box and futura has had some issues with juice making it past the 510 too, and these are not even bottom feeders... i'm being very careful with the woody and thankfully the divo doesn't really leak much if at all, the cyclone on the other hand is much more prone to leaking because of the 2 airholes, especially when there open a bit and also the cyclone air holes are very close to the deck but the divo has behaved very well when it comes to leaking juice so I've been ok up until now at least
Ok, I found it for you. It's called 'potting' an electronic circuit board, and they even sell special epoxy for the purpose (nix the windsheld epoxy), here's one: Tough-Seal Potting Compound - ToughSeal | Key Polymer
And here's directions how to do it (including video):
Potting electronics with silicone
Discussion of thermal conductivity of potting compounds:
Potting Solutions Potting Hints
Mind you that I have no idea what they are talking about, but it beats bricking 3 DNA 30's a month. Feel free to send me your extra when you get er done and no longer need it.
And here's directions how to do it (including video):
Potting electronics with silicone
Discussion of thermal conductivity of potting compounds:
Potting Solutions Potting Hints
Mind you that I have no idea what they are talking about, but it beats bricking 3 DNA 30's a month. Feel free to send me your extra when you get er done and no longer need it
.
potting has it's issues, the dna is a big electronic switch and it flows all the current through one mosfet that gets pretty hot. in a potting compound the problems are heat retention and the heat cycling can eventually cause things on the board to crack or break solder joints etc... I've considered coating the whole thing in silicone which has more forgiveness as to thermal expansion cycles, it'll be less likely to cause problems than an epoxy. I've also considered potting it in hot glue, figured if something gtts hot it'll soften up the hotglue near it but then re solidify when it cools. I also bought some liquid electrical tape, considering coating the whole board with that
long story, I haven't killed 3 in one month though, the first one I killed was in a Vmod of all things, before I even ever got a reo
the second one was in my reo after I trashed the vmod, I had it relatively sealed but juice crept through the harness eventually. the third I didn't get wet at all yet it died after a few months all by itself
brandon from evolved says the boards already have a conformal coating so they shouldn't need any additional coating but I think the coating he uses may be good for moisture in general, but ejuice, not so much
I bought a few different things to try but haven't yet, the best way to seal up a dna is to seal the compartment really. several manufacturers have had issues with this, hana mods had to alter the way there 510 sits and had to make a few other modifications to the box and futura has had some issues with juice making it past the 510 too, and these are not even bottom feeders... i'm being very careful with the woody and thankfully the divo doesn't really leak much if at all, the cyclone on the other hand is much more prone to leaking because of the 2 airholes, especially when there open a bit and also the cyclone air holes are very close to the deck but the divo has behaved very well when it comes to leaking juice so I've been ok up until now at least
Well, the only mod I know of that's impervious to juice spills from the connector is the Provari (probably why it's got the reputation it does). ALL my other mods are not airtight at the connector. And of course, bottom feeders can't be airtight, since the bottle just connects to the bottom.
That's what ruined my 134 immediately when I got it, but I had no idea until I blew into the top, and air flowed RIGHT out the battery hole... omg. It cleaned right up with 99% alcohol, once I could get the darn thing open to get to the board.
Maybe Mundy or one of the electronic guys can pipe in here and give you some suggestions...
Logic makes me wonder how heat would build up worse with epoxy (and you'd have to be really careful around the buttons) than sealed with no airflow anyway? Yes, air is not as insulating, but circulating air around epoxy would drop temps faster than dead hot air? I don't know. Especially with epoxy designed for potting, which takes into account the thermal issues already?
You know... I'm really glad now that I don't have any DNA
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Well, if dead air is better than putting the epoxy on the mod directly, what about gluing some plexiglass with end caps (like a fish tank), or even thick glass, with waterproof silicone (fishtank glue), and then all you have to do to get to your boards again is just to razor off the silicone?
the dna is awesome when it works, and when it is working fine I'd hate to gum it all up by potting it. the only time I wish that I had potted it is AFTER it fries 
at that point it is being compartmentalized, which is the best way to do it really I think. once I finish the cap I sould be fine, I'll silicone all around it and make the buttons somewhat water resistant as much as I can so it will be sealed in there pretty well I think(hope)
Ooh. make a fishtank mod. Can 'float' some teeny glass fish and seaweed on the underside of the glass over the circuit board and get a 3d effect. hehehe.
. Can 'float' some teeny glass fish and seaweed on the underside of the glass over the circuit board and get a 3d effect. hehehe.
A separate compartment, as far from the juice as possible would definitely be the optimal way to do it.
Turbocad: How do the dimensions of the DNA board compare with the the bottom plate of the OliveR?
My initial thoughts were to fold the display back onto the board, with the display facing the bottom, like on a Vaporshark DNA. Of course, this would mean using (and finding a place to put) separate Up/Dn and Fire control switches, and unfortunately, I have neither an OliveR or a loose DNA controller handy.
Turbocad: How do the dimensions of the DNA board compare with the the bottom plate of the OliveR?
My initial thoughts were to fold the display back onto the board, with the display facing the bottom, like on a Vaporshark DNA. Of course, this would mean using (and finding a place to put) separate Up/Dn and Fire control switches, and unfortunately, I have neither an OliveR or a loose DNA controller handy.
If the ribbon were flexible, you could twist it around, and glue like a 1mm thick and 2mm wide strip of insulating foam around the edges of the screen (so it doesn't SIT on your circuit board), then cut 4 strips of 2mm wide and 2mm thick pieces of plexi (or glass), and EPOXY (so the corners aren't gummed up with ugly silicone) them to the flat piece. Then silicone the thing onto your mod.
If you do that, make sure the corners are 45 degree beveled like a door frame, or it will look really amateur
.Oh, THEN glue the glass fish and seaweed onto the underside of the plexi
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She was out loly gagging with me I showed her a good time told her she had to go before a silver alert was issued.
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