pdib LIBRARY: tech/specs/info

[pdib]

So, this here thread is an attempt to bundle pertinent information about the mods I've been making. Hopefully, the front end of it (at least) will have most of what one may want to know all neatly grouped in a seething mass of information. Threads need contribution to survive, so please feel free to ask questions or contribute pertinent info (how-to, pics, pointers, facts about: my mods, bottom feeding, battery safety, atomizers. . .. and like that).

There is another thread. The original thread. That thread has lots of good information in it, as well as pics of all the mods I've made so far. It's a fun thread. It's a big thread. It (not this) is the random-gabby-silly-tangential-chitchat thread. Check it out. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-supplier-forum/511889-pdibs-making-mods.html

Very good then, onward and upward . .. . . let's push the button, shall we?





I'm making these bottom feeding mechanical mods.

They work like this prototype does; but this here prototype ain't pretty. It's made of shop scraps. Nonetheless, the vid will give you some idea of what it is and how it works.





Here are a few pics of actual finished product . . ..

(If you have "click" and you have patience, you can view a variety of my mods in my pho-buck albums. . . . . . . . click on a pic, see?)

 

[pdib]

PRICING:

STANDARD MOD: $400 + optional extras* + shipping

CUSTOM MATCHING: $445 + optional extras* + shipping

CUSTOM PITA: $more


A Standard Mod is made of wood that I have available in-house with black or “slate” Richlite (Wiki it) caps and aluminum or copper grounding plate in the top cap. You may source, purchase, and ship to me your own custom materials for the body. This would be stabilized (and maybe dyed) wood, for example. More on stabilized and choosing custom materials later.

A Custom Matching Mod would be where you've supplied me with your custom material (stabilized wood, for example) and would like to have the top/bottom caps matching, and even the fire button, if you like.

A Custom PITA Mod would be like a Custom Matching; however the material you've supplied isn't as strong as would be ideal for caps, or requires extra finishing, sealing, strengthening. In short, added work due to the nature of the material, or some bit of fanciness that's above and beyond.


ORDERING:

The way it's been working is this. There's a list. If you are interested in purchasing one of my Mods, please contact me via PM. I'll put you on the waiting list (in the order received). There are no deposits, no down payments. I will be making Mods in "runs" (batches of 10-12). These runs will take 4-6 weeks to fabricate. When they are finished, I'll post pics (pro'ly in the gabby-chat thread .. . . IDK). You'll see plenty of Mods, varieties of "in-house" woods and stabilized mods while you eagerly anticipate your turn [←tee-hee]. I'll contact you before your run of mods gets underway. And you'll have ample opportunity to make any requests per materials, specifications etc. You can request a general style/coloring of wood, a specific wood you've seen me use, or whatever . . .. . request away. Or, you can just see what I come up with. If, for some reason, you don't see a mod you want in "your run", you will have first (or almost first) pick of the mods in the following run. Or, you can make a more specific request for the following run.

When the mods are done, and you like what you're gonna get, I'll invoice, you pay (in full), and I ship. . .. .and you vape.


NOTE: Here ↓ you'll find some specific instructions on helping me to help you when finalizing your purchase. (please read, and thank you)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...b-library-tech-specs-info-2.html#post12160692

*extras here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...b-library-tech-specs-info-7.html#post13570048

 

[pdib]

MATERIALS:

The basic idea here, is that I'm making mods from materials which I select to be practically suitable and aesthetically pleasing. (Wood, metal, Richlite). One is welcome to provide me with the materials that they find pleasing. Folks are shopping for stabilized and stabilized/dyed woods/burls online, and shipping it to me as their turn arises for mod manufacture. The information regarding size of blank material one might need is to be had solely by PMing me and initiating a conversation. This is my means of insuring some degree of quality control and avoiding unpleasant surprises.

Sourcing your own materials is your own cost and is extra, bonus, on top of the cost of a mod. Furthermore, sourcing your own materials entails it's own risks. If the material proves unsuitable for making all or part of a mod, that is your loss. One may default to Richlite caps (having hoped for matching caps), and subsequently change their order to "Standard", if the material isn't strong enough to serve for caps. Another risk is that an internal flaw may render the material useless. Also, too, there may be an accident in the shop (in the manufacturing process). If an accident happens with your custom material, that too, would be your loss. I will not compensate for loss of material through innocent accident.


There are different degrees of stabilizing. One form of categorization is "type A"/closed cell and "type B"/open cell. The Type A is completely saturated (with the stabilizing agent) and more dense. Type B coats the cell walls but doesn't fill the cells with magic hardening acrylic. These two types exemplify the possibility that one piece of stabilized will serve well as a 1/4" thick cap which needs to hold machine screws (with repeated tightening and loosening), and will not snap when flexed; whereas another piece of stabilized just won't be strong enough. This, in part, is why you'll get sizes for custom blanks from me, and we'll talk.

 

[pdib]

So, there's all that for now. I'm sure I've missed a bunch of stuff in the above categories; but I have a bunch more stuff I want to get on the page . . . . .

shall we?

“I JUST GOT MY MOD”

Your battery goes in positive end down* (fire button will contact the negative end of your battery). Nestle in the 1/8” x 3/4” O-ring on top of the battery (as a spacer between the neg. end of the battery and the top cap). It’s important that the O-ring sit flush and not protrude from the top of the body, as this will impede contact between the top cap and the brass (+) centerpost in the body of the Mod. You’ll find a thinner O-ring in your goody-bag, should you need it. You’ll find that the O-ring nestles snugly against the battery tube walls. So, it shouldn’t be a problem if the 1/8” O-ring seats a bit recessed . . . . . just not proud.



*It’s become apparent that, with its wooden body and no electronics, battery polarity is not an issue in your dibiMOD Oliver (whatever you kids are calling it these days ;>). If the fattest o-ring doesn’t quite fit, flip the battery over and see if that doesn’t help.



Sterling Silver contact adjustment (for button throw and to avoid constant firing) can be done by loosening or removing the brass nut. This little nut is acting in conjunction with the button stem (an aluminum threaded post) in a double-nutting type kin’a way. So, loosen or remove the brass nut, screw the silver in or out to adjust button throw and then re-tighten the brass nut against the aluminum post (be sure that you’ve got the button depressed and that you’re tightening the nut against the post, not the grounding plate). Tighten that nut firmly, don’t want it loosening up and auto-firing. I do a firm finger-tight thang myself. Others have even used pliers.



Adjustments for battery length can also be made at the bottom battery contact (large screw in the bottom cap). Nylon washers can be added/removed/substituted. The brass washer can even be removed if need be. This entails some fiddling equivalent to fuse replacement. Think twice before you start in down there. You’ll need either 3 hands, or some skill, or some patience and some practice. The first time replacing a fuse is . . . . “do-able”. The third time replacing a fuse is a breeze. (Face-Blo BeCu strip is much mo’ easier on the reassembly.)



Juice bottle is 6 ml (common size and shape). The juice feed tube is screwed onto the 510+post with a dab of superglue to seal it. Don’t remove the tube from the mod unless you’re doing serious repair, maintenance or replacement. The bottle cap can also stay in place when swapping/filling the juice bottle. (Just unscrew the bottle from the cap to fill it.) Leave about 1/16” of air under the neck line of the bottle. (i.e. don’t fill the bottle all the way) After filling, when reassembling Mod, make sure the bottle cap is snugged right up to the end of the 510+post. Elsewise, the assembly may be too long, the bottle would want to extend past the bottom of the body, and the bottom cap may be pushed out. This would sever contact between the brass centerpost (in the body) and the smaller contact in the bottom cap. An alternative cap can be found in you goody-bag. This is the squeezy-nipple snap-in insert part of the bottle’s anatomy. It works great in lieu of the proper bottle cap. (It’s not traditional; but it’s what I use. It takes up less room and is easier to work with on a daily basis, IMHO.) If you want to swap out your cap assemblies, lube your tube with e-liquid. Stuff slides much-mo-betta’ with e-liquid. You’ll have to establish the height/position of this snap-on cap. Remove the Mod’s bottom cap, and fiddle with positioning until the bottom of the bottle (in situ) sits just shy of the bottom of the Mod body.



Small (~1/2”) O-rings are to be found in your goody-bag. These are to establish a seal between the base of your atty, and the top of the mod (in the drip dish, around the 510). It keeps your e-liquid confined to its preferred path, and not all over the top of you mod. Fit should be just barely snug; but not impede the atomizer from making good contact with the 510+. There should be about 4 sizes to choose from. Start with the 1/16” thick O-ring (2nd largest). Play with it. Work it out. ;>)





In your goody bag (or maybe already installed on the bottom cap of your mod), there’s a brass set screw for the bottom cap. It’s redundant, by design, but should you prefer the bottom cap to be more “fixed”, you have that option. Bear in mind please, that the screw threads into wood. Be gentle and focused in seating it. Personally, I would dry-fit the screw in just the cap to get a sense for how deep it sits when fully engaged. The set screw is also good to employ if one owns a particularly fragile mod . . .. or if one is prone to dropping things. When seated with the set screw employed, the bottom cap goes a looooong way to protecting the squonk hole lip in the instance of mod droppage.



Questions? Ask the crew on the thread, or PM me.

 

[pdib]

BATTERY SPECS. AND SAFETY:

This mod runs on a 10A automotive fuse. A very specific fuse that meets the performance and safety requirements entailed in mechanical vaping. It will support a .3Ω coil indefinitely with very low voltage drop. It will blow in about 1/10th of a second if your system has a hard short. Here's the specs.

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...Blade-Fuses/Littelfuse_ATO_Ag_Blade_Fuses.pdf

As best as I can tell, this fuse ↓ will work well too. I haven't tested it; but my friend and beta-tester did. He shorted out a battery on it and it popped "instantly". (Thx, X-puppy)
The specs indicate similar performance to the above fuse.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...t-datasheets-a/Bus_Ele_DS_2048_ATM_Series.pdf



I strongly recommend, nay I insist that one use only high-drain, safe chemistry batteries with this mod. Batteries rated at 10A maximum continuous discharge or above. (see "Amp Limit" in chart below) For one thing, it would be wise to vape that way in general. Secondly, tho, the 10A fuse will blow quickly under a 30-50A load. Short story, you want to use a battery that can withstand a burst of 30-50A without suffering for it. If you choose to use a battery with, say, a 4A max continuous discharge rating, you need to substitute the fuse with a lower amp version. (Say, a 5 amp or 7.5 amp fuse.) I haven't tested every fuse and every battery, so improvisation is totally beyond any knowledge I claim to have. Improvise at your own risk. Vape at your own risk as well. Although I'm providing an element of safety with the fuse; operating any mechanical mod and draining a battery next to your face is inherently risky. Operate any mod with that knowledge, and at your own risk.

Technonut has been kind enough to start a thread re: subΩ vaping. It's here . . . http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-discussion-safety-battery-info-warnings.html

In it, he posted a chart of various batteries and their specifications.



If you don't want to pick a battery through research, and you just want to be told which battery to buy:

AW IMR 18650 1600mAh
Samsung INR 18650 20R 2000mAh
Sony VTC3 or VTC4

 

[pdib]

FUSE:


Here's me installing a fuse. This is how I do it, I'm sure there's plenty of other ways. The main thing here is: The screw is going to want to turn the fuse, so use the little hole I provided to put an "anchor" there. The hole is 1/16". Also, note that I've got both hands free. First time is a bit of a bear. It gets pretty easy pretty quick tho. (keep in mind, I'm doing it so the camera can see. makes it more awkward than in needs to be)


Hey, good time to mention. I'll be happy to help with whatever your mod requires. PM me to ask for pointers, or just send me the mod and I'll take care of it. (← for free? . . . .. no, probably not for free.)





NOTE: Richlite (the cap material) is tough stuff. It's pretty dang hard. Always be mindful, tho, to . . .. well . . . stop turning the screw when it's seated . . . . . Don't strip it out. If I were to give a general idea on how much torque to use (in hand tightening), I'd say, "treat it like aluminum".


Here's a completed view. It oughta look like this when done. Note the orientation of the "U" in the filament. It'll work either way, but having the tip of the "U" toward center of mod buy's you a bit more room.



In these pics ↓, I've got the "U" facing the wrong way (early days). But it shows what shape to trim a fuse to, after you've "shelled" it. To shell a fuse, I grind (sand or cut) the two edges and the back of the plastic body down until I hit metal. Then I run a razor down the face of each leg to trim the little plastic nubs that pass through the fuse legs (keeping the point of the razor away from the center of the fuse, so as not to damage the filament). It should just fall open. NEVER alter or mess with the actual filament. Changing it's length, thickness will change it's properties.

 

[pdib]

GENERAL CLEANING:
(Hygene style, next to godliness type-style)

Lemme start by saying that the top cap and the bottom cap and everything that remains attached to them when you pull them away from the mod are good with water. You can rinse them in warm running water.

(Just FYI, things that are basic (alkaline) will darken aluminum. Washing an aluminum pan in the dishwasher will darken it and make ugly dark yucky looking. So . . . . let's stick to warm water and skip the soap, unless you want to experiment and you know something about the type of soap you're using. I don't. Maybe you do. Whatever.)

The Mod body itself is certainly water resistant enough to wipe it down with a damp cloth. I wouldn't soak it. Nope, I wouldn't. The wooden mods are finished with a penetrating/saturating coat of SeaFin (google it) . . .. like, as much as it will drink up. Then, when cured out, the wooden bodies are finished with as many coats of CA (cyanoacrylate) as it takes to build a solid finish. (usually 3-4 coats). This finish will hold up to brief exposure to water quite well. Also, the CA seems to hold up well to a wipe with rubbing alcohol and denatured alcohol. Although the top and bottom and interior of the mod have also seen multiple coats of CA, I would avoid soaking them with water. End grain is pesky stuff, and the thickness of the coats on the ends varies based on how much "handworking" and "adjustment" is required in the final fitting process.

[Here's a secret, tho. Wood can occasionally get damp, or even wet, and it somehow seems to survive it. (it's not the wicked witch of the west)]

The stabilized mod bodies are impregnated with acrylic. Do whatever you would do with acrylic. Have at it. I'm no chemist. I'm pretty sure you can do whatever I've suggested for the wood.



"GUY CLEANING" or "CLEANING WHAT MATTERS":
(these would be the electrical contact points, kids)

You'll want to make sure that your magnet sockets are clean. If the physical connection at the magnets is clogged (even just the tiniest bit), it may keep your electrical contact points from seating properly.

Points of contact to keep clean (IDK . . .. once a month?):

The button. The screw head that comprises the neg. contact at the battery. Also, if you unscrew that screw, the button assembly will come apart, and you'll find more things to clean (really, not very often). The stem of the button, the spring, and the aluminum or copper plate where the spring rests ("springs", if you will). In this area, I apply a bit of Noalox before sending the mod out. (There's no telling when y'all are actually gonna get around to looking in there, and aluminum and copper do oxidize . . .. so I'm giving you a break on that by protecting with the Noalox.)

Brass screw heads. And the ends of the brass centerpost.

Beryllium Copper Leaf Contact. (That flat thingy that sprouts from the juice feed stem of the 510 post. Just the exposed tip of it will do nicely.)

Lastly, If you're going to replace the fuse anyway, you can soak the brass screws and washer in the "de-leading solution" for 5-10 minutes. It just so happens, it's a great brass cleaner. (that solution, meant to remove surface lead from brass, is: 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide and 2 parts Household Vinegar (4-5%-ish)). This is the easiest way to clean the tiny little undersides where the fuse makes contact.


HOW:

I usually clean with an eraser. A little mechanical pencil refill eraser works great down the centerpost hole. (and in the 510, for that matter)

Next level, rubbing alcohol followed by eraser.

Next level, the paper side of 2000 grit sandpaper.

Next level, the business side of 2000 grit sandpaper, followed by the paper side. (← I do this to the contact face of the fire button every couple weeks. No need for disassembly, just pull the cap, depress the button and rub)

 

[pdib]

ADJUSTMENTS:
(and a bit of troubleshooting)


Just a quick primer on how the contact points and centerpost are set up in this mod. What to tweak, how to, and why.

The why is the simplest. We are shooting for good, solid butting connections at the top and bottom of the brass centerpost. If your mod isn't firing, or not hitting as hard as it ought, this would be a good place to look. AFTER you've made sure your battery is charged, properly inserted and fully seated in it's tube and on the + contact screw. AFTER you've made sure you've got a good connection at the atty/510 and your coil is in proper working condition. And AFTER you've checked to make sure your fuse isn't blown. (Oh, and after you've made sure there isn't a crumb from your morning toast nestled in a magnet socket.)

The conductive parts in the positive section of the circuit are all of exact fixed length. They are designed to all fit nicely together when the mod is assembled. Once dialed in, they ought to stay put, and serve you without fuss. However, sometimes adjustments may prove necessary. This could be because fuse replacement slightly changed the height of the small screw contact in the bottom cap, or because of drastic changes in temperature and/or humidity. So, here's the principle . . . . . .



The small screw in the bottom cap is of a fixed height (determined by the thickness of the fuse it captures). No adjustment there. The centerpost must be adjusted (screwed up or down . . . . in or out) so as to make firm contact with the small screw. There is a point (by design) at which the brass centerpost is making maximum contact with that screw head; but NOT pushing the bottom cap away from it's fully seated position. This point can readily be ballparked by having only the bottom cap and the Mod body assembled, and watching the gap between them increase/decrease until it just disappears. At this point, you are within 1/8 - 1/4 turn of the centerpost being in final position. Note the location (orientation) of the slot on the top of the centerpost (as you can gauge your results against how far you move that slot clockwise or counter). In some cases, you can do the next part by feel. You can feel the centerpost making contact with the screw head and bearing down on it, while watching the gap between body and cap. Elsewise, you can do this . . . .



. . . . insert your battery and check for full "resting" voltage at the neg of the battery and top of the brass centerpost. If you're getting the same voltage reading as you do testing only the naked battery, you're good. If no . . .. adjust the centerpost 1/10th turn clockwise. Check again. Once you've got voltage, check the bottom of the mod. If that cap is rocking on the fulcrum of the centerpost, you've gone too far. Good news is . . . .that part is just about aesthetics! . . .. . . . . . . UNTIL ↓







There's also an adjustment screw (white nylon) under the tip of the beryllium copper leaf on the top cap. If you have moved the centerpost down. You will need to adjust the white nylon screw accordingly. (actually, by the exact same amount . . . . . easy ) If I gave the centerpost 1/8th turn down, I'll have to screw the white nylon screw 1/8th turn OUT (which translates into "down" when the mod is assembled). Now the BeCu Leaf contact floats, so it may well make contact without the aid of the nylon screw to push it into place. However, you will achieve better, more solid, harder hitting contact with that nylon screw doing it's job. Again, as you adjust that screw out, check for fit of top cap. As soon as its seating is getting gappy, or rocking, you've gone to far. This top connection is more forgiving than the bottom one, it's got a grey area. (The bottom one is yes/no, on/off. The top one is "some"/"mostly"/"bingo".)


LOTTA WORDS THERE ↑, KIDS! But the principles and practice are really pretty straightforward. It's a case where transmitting the information is more burdensome than the employment of it's content.

 

[pdib]

Last bit for now. In the "I JUST GOT MY MOD" section, there's talk of adding/subtracting/substituting nylon spacers under the neg. contact at the fire button. Here's some pics. Note please; your Mod ought to function just fine with no spacers. It's just a question of how short/long you like your button throw. If you switch to a longer battery, you may need to back off in whatever shimming you've got in there.


BTW: if ever you have some "emergency", just pull off the top cap. Everything will stop. (well, unless your battery has actually started on the path of thermal runaway . . . . .. that won't stop. Dump the battery and step away. . . . . .)

 

[super_X_drifter]

Here's me rocking mine like 10 minutes out of the box.

I actually even built 2 coils before I got to hit it. The first one came in at 1.7 so I wound another with a few less wraps and got this here 1.3 ohm micro coil in there

It is a most amazing mod from a craftsmanship, ingenuity and vapability standpoint. Love it.
http://youtu.be/Alj3dEs5YnM

 

[ukeman]

Just got your mod?

or not,.,.,.,.

I've had my DIBI for a month, and once,. (*just once) I did a boo boo…


so remember

Your battery goes in positive end down (fire button will contact ----->>> negative end of your battery).

 

[NickCA]

I'm so glad you made this thread. Sifting through the other one for pertinent information was futile, albeit entertaining. I have a question. You mentioned in the other thread that for $5 more, we can ask for copper plates instead of aluminum and for $2 more we can get a stainless steel 510+ post. What are the advantages to going with these options? I assume the SS 510 post is just sturdier, but are the copper plates more conductive than the aluminum plates?

 

[pdib]

Hey, NickCA (aka: Niki Walnuts )

Great question. First, let me say that I'm not making any differentiation in price. When I reassessed pricing, I realized it was just easier not to go there. The SS and the Copper are harder to work with, and more expensive for the materials; but not by much in the grand scope of things.

Both instances do involve conductivity; however, probably not enough to base a decision on. Brass is a better conductor than SS for the 510+post, and Copper is a better conductor than Aluminum on the grounding plate. That said, given the amount of voltage we're dealing with in Mods, and the short distances the current needs to travel, there's only enough of a difference to interest the zealous "v-drop enthusiast".

The SS in the 510+post is going to be harder (less wear) and won't tarnish as readily as brass.

Both the Aluminum and the Copper will slowly tarnish (unless you buff it now and again); but the Copper will turn reddish brown if you leave it, and the aluminum will just dull a little. This choice is about aesthetics for most people.

Although, the difference in conductivity is small enough to be ignored by most, there are plenty of people who will pay top dollar for silver plated copper contacts in a Stainless Steel Tube Mod. We all prioritize differently.

Personally, I run a brass 510+post, and an aluminum plate. That's partly about looks; but also, the grounding plate is fat and thick, and the more material you have to conduct current, the less of an issue it is.

I just read this post regarding SS tubes on high performance mods (written by the maker). Note the red part; but note the context as well.

Myth Busters: Stainless Steel Conductivity

There seems to be some questions and mis-information floating around on the conductivity of stainless steel and suitability for use in mod's.

First, yes, stainless steel is not as conductive as many metals, but the part many have left out of the equation in their haste to quote (yet not understand) metal resistiance charts, is it's conductivity is dependent upon length the current has to travel. It is NOT A FIXED resistor as the resitance goes up with the length the electricity has to travel through said material. Shorter distances equals less total resistance!

In our PV's, the distance the electricity has to travel (very short) and the gauge of material it is flowing through (large), makes stainless steel an excellent candidate for use in PV's. Futher more, it is more corrosion and scratch resistant (less polishing) has much greater tensile and hardness ratings compared to aluminum (superior thread strippage resistance) and, since one can run a much thinner wall thickness when using stainless without sacrificing strength, it can often times weigh the same or less then some comparable aluminum mods.

Other ways i address this conductive issue in the new Precise line so it is not an issue:

First, the positive current in the Precise line of mods does NOT flow through the stainless steel. The center post on the Precise is made of Brass, not stainless steel, and directly connects the battery to the atomizer, thus no significant electrical loss.

Second, the negative current is conducted through the body, but the body size, gauge and electrical path distance is sufficient/short enough to carry the low voltage and amperage that PV's produce.

Third, on the battery to switch contact, both the new Precise 16340 and Precise 18650 have a custom machined 4 prong brass contact post.

the source:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...stainless-steel-conductivity.html#post1503365

 

[NickCA]

Niki Walnuts! I can dig it. Otherwise known as Waldorf or The Waldorf Salad if you're not into the whole brevity thing.

Awesome response. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

 

[pdib]

Couple notes on ordering/shipping:

When you've seen your mod, and approved, it would be great if you'd send me a single PM with all the pertinent information in it. It's important for proper invoicing, printing of shipping labels, and for you to get your tracking notifications while you wait. Here's what I've figured out, what I need:



email address (for PayPal invoice and to receive tracking info from the USPS)
Name and shipping address (unless you're confident PayPal will give me the current/right information . .. and still . .. )
Extras (i.e. #spare modded fuses @$3/ea . . . if you want, extra this, extra that)

Insurance? (Postal, ~$5: y/n)

this ↑ makes this ↓ redundant

Signature confirmation? (~$2: y/n)

these are mutually exclusive ↑↑↓

Carrier leave package? (y/n)


From what I've experienced, on the USPS label page; IF you insure your package, you lose the option of, "CARRIER - LEAVE IF NO RESPONSE".
If you insure, you have to sign for it! If you insure, you needn't purchase signature confirmation.
SO, if you want the package left whether you answer the door or not, you cannot have insurance or signature confirmation.

FYI: I ship Priority Mail by default, and will not necessarily insure the package unless explicitly instructed to do so. In fact, my default selection will be "Signature Confirmation" ONLY. So, please make sure I know what YOU want.

that's all there is to say about that . . .. . THX

 

[pdib]

Here's a little video of me setting up (well, re-setting up a set-up mod that I un-set-up so I could "set it up" on video) a mod. It pretty much describes in moving pictures what I had written above re: adjustments/troubleshooting.

MOD SETUP:

 

[supertrunker]

Smurf and i both said "stop sniffing" - "blow your nose" LMAO

T

 

[pdib]

It's cold out there this morning.



(the things i do for my peeps . . .. . )

 

[pdib]

btw: I'll stop sniffing when you turn the volume down.

 

[reoluvr]

I like the reggae music in the vid. How do i adjust the 510 connection? my atty isnt screwing down all the way flush onto the top plate