PDIB's Making MODs!
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Very cool Mundy! That's kinda crazy. Wonder what size that big grounding wire is on all my telco racks at work are... 
Lol j/K got a couple sparky friends I can hit up. Although I'm not nearly as brave so I likely won't.
Lol j/K got a couple sparky friends I can hit up. Although I'm not nearly as brave so I likely won't.
btw: I scored some more of the BeCu Spring material. Y'all must appreciate that it was gdeal who got me thinking along those lines initially (why I even had any around). He and I kept getting varying results, tho. If I had to guess, given turbocad's results; gdeal was testing a mod who's button post never touched the plate and mine (I tried 3 different mods) pretty much always did. I couldn't repeat gdeal's results for the life of me. Now that we've got turbocad's careful observations and subsequent modifications, that pretty much seals the deal.
I went back to the place where I'd gotten them (months ago), and lo and behold, they had more "left in stock" than before I bought the last batch . .. . I was sure they were out.
I went back to the place where I'd gotten them (months ago), and lo and behold, they had more "left in stock" than before I bought the last batch . .. . I was sure they were out.
I edited the post to reflect that it might have been #4 bare copper, will have to check tomorrow.
Ok, real quick since my HRH is calling (so far gently)
Cleaned all connections, applied Noalox sparingly (it is not very conductive although it does have Zink in it) since all it needs to do is prevent oxidation, made a copper center pin out of a piece of #6 (Edit: might have been #4 I will check tomorrow) bare wire with a 10-32 die, had to take a 10-32 tap to OliveR as far as I could get it in from both ends to get the new center pin in comfy but not real tight, installed the bottom screw and tightened down the center pin snug, installed the extra spring pdib provided which is stouter, adjusted the nylon screw up top, and..................
Fresh SX30 unloaded 4.22V
.7 ohm coil in RM2
SX30 under load 4.06V
At posts of RM2 4.01V
My deity folks, that is a .05V mod drop on a fresh battery with a .7 ohm coil on a wood mod with a fuse!!!!!!
You just can't ask for any better than that, since I measured .0415V of that .05V mod drop across the fuse this time leaving about .01V for the mod itself!
I want. I vape at 0.7Ω's on my REO but I'd rather you install it.
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
If that is the extra little spring you gave me, I might mention (for other folk to know) that is is a thumb workout compared to the one that was installed when I got it.
Thanks, yeah, that's why I was saying it's a custom modification. For each particular person to do with their particular battery. It's heavy gauge stuff, and a person has to dial in that button throw to the fruit fly's blue eyes.
I heard you guys dated for a short while, in the eighties.
Way off topic but here it be:
Do to the fact that my signature banner counts only days I missed the fact that I hit the two year mark a couple of weeks ago.
Never would I go back to stinky's, haven't had not even one drag on one since I started vaping.
Do to the fact that my signature banner counts only days I missed the fact that I hit the two year mark a couple of weeks ago.
Never would I go back to stinky's, haven't had not even one drag on one since I started vaping.
Thanks Mr. Mundy!
I'm going to leave this to P's better judgement as to whether I really need one or not.
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
Hey. You.
No Carl, YOU'RE AWESOME
"..on the scale of worlds; humans are inconsequential; a thin film of life on an obscure and solitary lump of rock and metal.."
ha, me and you both playing with copper today
main reason I went from aluminum to brass is because as a make break contact I think brass is better than aluminum. I know aluminum conducts electricity better but here the contact resistance of the joint is very much greater than the bulk resistance of the metal itself, and why the contact resistance is more dependent on the force between the contacts and the condition of the surface, than on the size of the contacts. aluminum oxidizes immediately and forms a non conductive shell as it oxidizes where brass usually has a lead film that blocks electron flow less and just works longer between cleanings I think. neither is really great here but brass screws are cheap and easy to get. brass is copper and zinc and I think is a better contact than aluminum at the make break point. ideally copper would be best though, silver gold or rhodium plated copper even better
because of the small number of spots making contact, and their limited size, the current density in the spots is large compared with the current flowing in the circuit, and this influences the behavior of the contacts with respect to temperature rise, erosion, welding as well as contact resistance. there's a lot of good contact info here : http://www.copperinfo.co.uk/electrical/downloads/tn-23-copper-in-electrical-contacts.pdf
I didn't have any copper wiring or copper screws or anything copper at all so while my wife shopped at target I ran into lowes and got a few feet of the heaviest copper wire they had, I think it is #4? they had no copper # 8 screws anywhere to be found so I used this wire to make a center contactor. I ground it down a bit in diameter then threaded it #8 thread, then found a tight fitting #6 washer and filed it to fit snug, then I hammered the face to mushroom the head a bit. had to do this because the wire is thin enough to fit through the hole so I needed a bigger head. works awesome
def want to make a copper upper button seat too, aluminum to copper will eventually build up galvanic corrosion, not sure if nolox helps deter that or not? I really want to make my whole button from copper. I requested a spare piece of copper with my mod to make a button from it when I first ordered the mod actually
I want to use this wire to run up as the center shaft too, but I wasn't considering threading it into a replacement shaft like you did. I was more thinking of drilling the center threads out of the body of the mod and having the center pole attach to the base before it is inserted. make the center shaft and the battery contact one solid piece.still quick release with the magnets but the base will be much more stable being pinned like this and it would eliminate that lower contact point completely.
now I just want to say that the things I'm doing or the things mundy is doing are not things that are necessary.
the dibi is like buying a factory hot rod. it has all the key ingredients of a high performance machine and it is a high performance machine out of the box but it is built for a wide range of user types, so safety and wide range of usability with a wide range of batteries for a wide range of user setus all dictate the factory issue design.
it's like buying a factory buick grand national or twin turbo supra. it is a base performance machine right out of the showroom that any average person could still use as an average daily driver, but it also has a lot of things that can be better tuned for performance and it has a whole lot more potential with just a little tweaking and tuning
doing this doesn't mean anything negative towards the base mod at all, this is just about making it do wheelies and run 10 second quarter miles 
seriously this thing really is a hot rod though. with this whole copper guts upgrade it should compete with the best of the best on every level. any thoughts of dna modding I had for this thing are out for me right now because of the incredible potential of this mod to be a really epic mech. I love my dnas but can still appreciate a good mech. the design is super performance oriented and with a few little tweaks here and there it's got the potential to be a monster
I've wanted to play around with a silver and gold plating setup for a while now, that would wind up being the icing on the cake on this mod, upgrading to full copper guts, and then silver plating everything including the ground plate and the button. that would be the equivalent of chroming out the engine compartment I guess
when you think about it, nothing out there compares to the dibi yet, it's like the 53 corvette, or the 64 mustang, the first in a generation of high performance bottom feeders that are sure to come as more and more vapers start to really learn whats up
I like all this stuff because while I have no idea what you guys are talking about, I like that you are giving pdib ideas to fix my mod up before I get it.
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