PDIB's Making MODs!

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pdib

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Kay . . . . .. .Soooooooo . . . .


I'm taking some pictures tonight (and tomorrow maybe). The mods aren't ready to ship; but I guess they're ready for photos. And you kids have been so good, I didn't wanna make you wait any longer than absolutely necessary. (You'll notice, they don't even have their buttons yet. It'll be a few days before they are ready to ship . .. . . In fact, I just found out I'm solely responsible for the child and dog for 3 days toward the end of the week . . . .. . so don't hold yer breath.)

Let's just do this striptease style . . . . .. a little at a time. (All the mods are this far along; but I'll just throw a few up at a time.) Many are already attached to particular people . . . . some, not so much.

In no particular order, then. (oh, btw; I'll just bet if you click on the pic, it'll take you to the album)


WALNUT









 

pdib

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HOLY CRAP pdib!!!! Those are STUNNING!!!

I will move my defective itaste 134 pix to the battery mod section. I was just filling in time while waiting for your pix, that's a distraction here, I'll put them elsewhere, and link in their place:)!

thanx, glass. you so considerate.
 

jasl90

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Looking at the board... If had to hazard a guess, my money would be on crappy soldering of the wires entering at the bottom of the pcb. From the look of the solder joints they don't look like they are very good quality. If you're handy with a soldering iron you may want to reflow any bad joints. Note... If you have what it takes to blow glass, you have more that what it takes to handle a soldering iron. This (IMO) is probably the best soldering tutorial on the web... Basic Soldering Lesson 1 - "Solder & Flux" - YouTube
It'll also show you what a good vs bad solder join looks like.

Also, just another best guess... I have suspicion that the kapton tape was place over that row of connections to keep one or more of the leads from shorting to the tube... It's absence may very well be what's causing the shock when you press the button... For that matter, the button itself may be making contact.

Assuming that you're happy with the solder joints (nothing wiggles, feels loose and each joint looks like it's in good shape), while the PV is still apart, place an atty on the top cap and give it a test fire by pressing the tac switch to make sure it fires and to make sure your aren't getting a shock from the button itself.

Assuming the above is all good, side the board back into place and look down (in good light) as see if you notice as areas where any of the leads coming into contact with the tube or button.

If you really want to bullet proof it, you can coat the wire connections with epoxy or E6000. You can also fill the inside of the top cap to prevent any future leaks...

Hope this helps. :)

OK! Here are pix...

Top Removed:
DSC00069_zpse6b39b75.jpg


Stuck back on cello:
DSC00072_zps52d31bcd.jpg


Board coming out:
DSC00074_zps58c8ceac.jpg


Front face of board (with the button):
DSC00075_zps788a5dde.jpg


Back of the board... and I think I may have found the problem, or part of the problem - apparently, while I was test firing it, I used a leaking carto... and the juice got ONTO the board itself... see the thickened booger-looking areas on the pins?:
DSC00084_zpsed748b7c.jpg


I cleaned it as well as I could with QD Electronic Cleaner (I bought electronic cleaner, dielectric grease, anti-oxidant compound for electronics from Amazon. Not because I have a clue what to do with them, but because the reviews made them sound useful), plastic brushes, qtips, Eye tees.
DSC00101_zps9499818b.jpg


Button hole (cannot get focus inside the tube - but the entire button is metal, front and solid back):
DSC00092_zpsae381b67.jpg


After cleaning:
DSC00090_zps1c75f42f.jpg


I haven't screwed it back together yet... thought I'd post these pix and let you guys tell me what you think. Plus, I should let the electronic cleaner dry fully before test firing.

I couldn't figure out how the juice got ONTO the board in the first place... so I blew into the top of the connector to see if it actually went into the body of the unit... and YES IT DOES. Very little, but enough to leak.

Is this built in obsolescence or inferior design? Who doesn't eventually have a leaking carto or tank? The area behind the button is also open to the circuit board behind it, so if juice got into the button, it would end up leaking onto the keyboard too.

This was an over $100 itaste 134. Actually, $169 retail, and the flagship Chinese designed Itaste mod. What a piece of CRAP. It looks good, materials are decent, but how very ignorant to design a system that is supposed to hold liquid, that allows leaks directly onto an electronic circuit board!!!

As for the finger buzzing... I wasn't referring to a rattle, I was referring to electric shock. I was being lightly shocked every time I pushed the button. I guess this may be unusual... when I was a kid, my parents had a bare wire in the attic and I used to think it was fun grabbing em for the buzzing sensation. Can only hold it a second or 2 at a time before having to let go, but I know what electric shock feels like, and that's what was coming through the button when I pressed it. That's pretty sad design right there...

Can you see anything else wrong with the board jasl? I don't know anything about electrical boards, other than what an open and closed circuit are.
 
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glassgal

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Looking at the board... If had to hazard a guess, my money would be on crappy soldering of the wires entering at the bottom of the pcb. From the look of the solder joints they don't look like they are very good quality. If you're handy with a soldering iron you may want to reflow any bad joints. Note... If you have what it takes to blow glass, you have more that what it takes to handle a soldering iron. This (IMO) is probably the best soldering tutorial on the web... Basic Soldering Lesson 1 - "Solder & Flux" - YouTube
It'll also show you what a good vs bad solder join looks like.

Also, just another best guess... I have suspicion that the kapton tape was place over that row of connections to keep one or more of the leads from shorting to the tube... It's absence may very well be what's causing the shock when you press the button... For that matter, the button itself may be making contact.

Assuming that you're happy with the solder joints (nothing wiggles, feels loose and each joint looks like it's in good shape), while the PV is still apart, place an atty on the top cap and give it a test fire by pressing the tac switch to make sure it fires and to make sure your aren't getting a shock from the button itself.

Assuming the above is all good, side the board back into place and look down (in good light) as see if you notice as areas where any of the leads coming into contact with the tube or button.

If you really want to bullet proof it, you can coat the wire connections with epoxy or E3000. You can also fill the inside of the top cap to prevent any future leaks...

Hope this helps. :)

Thank you Jasl90!!!

Quick question... I don't think the solder is the problem, it DID work til apparently getting saturated with juice... would a dab of Ox-Gard Anti-Oxident compound or Permatex dielectric tuneup grease painted on the joins help? Which of the 2?
 
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