I hear there are some segments if society who have done some wonderful things with stretchy materials and electricity.
Also, clamps
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PDIB's Making MODs!
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I hear there are some segments if society who have done some wonderful things with stretchy materials and electricity.
Also, clamps
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The mod so good peter posted twice
had some of that magic skunk gunk from under the 510 on my keyboard, I guess.
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The mod so good peter posted twice
And yes, I TOTALLY just said that. No filters, remember? Lmao
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btw: you already told us ↑ that.
That'll be PERFECT! I can see it now! Peter and his magic skunk gunk! - voltage drop!
Pure silver contacts?
WHAT pure silver contacts?!
:
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No way! Tell me that ain't so... You don't hear that too often...
I love my REOs but out of the nine mods I have in the arsenal, they are the bottom two performers. I'm hoping that'll change with the forthcoming sub ohm kits that Rob plans to offer.
Bee man, I have 3 skinny button springs and two beefy springs. Could be my imagination but I think the hefty ones are a little better.
I went the other way... I wanted a pdib mod FIRST... had no interest at all in a REO.
After waiting... and waiting... and waiting... and waiting... I couldn't stand it anymore and bought 2 Woodvil.
I would never have bought them if I wasn't impatient for a Dibi. So the sales go the other way too, and I suspect more and more will, the Dibi is just such a good looking mod that it makes you really LOOK at other wood mods. I love my Woodvil now, but I know I'll like my Dibi better (once I get it).
Actually... the Dibi impatience made me run out and get a BilletBox and Microstick also, which are way more common and easier to obtain. So a lot of mod makers should appreciate pdib.
After waiting... and waiting... and waiting... and waiting... I couldn't stand it anymore and bought 2 Woodvil.
I would never have bought them if I wasn't impatient for a Dibi. So the sales go the other way too, and I suspect more and more will, the Dibi is just such a good looking mod that it makes you really LOOK at other wood mods. I love my Woodvil now, but I know I'll like my Dibi better (once I get it
). Actually... the Dibi impatience made me run out and get a BilletBox and Microstick also, which are way more common and easier to obtain. So a lot of mod makers should appreciate pdib
.
Poldiac switch works pretty darn good. Top button switch. Two silver plated pins hang in a channel and a third bridges the gap. Only thing I could see as improvement is increasing surface area of contact patch.
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Same here as well.
I gave away the backup for my Reo when the dibi OliveR came in. However, even after group 5 when my second OliveR comes in (and group 13 with my third), I'm still going to hold onto my Reo as an almost indestructible backup mod.
I'm a Reo user too and I still drop-by Reoville. I think it's an awesome mod and I'm actually planning to buy 1 or 2 more. I wasn't really interested in wood mods until this one. I've always wanted a mod with the squonk hole up the side. I even posted that as a possible improvement to the Reo several months ago. The fact that the Dibi has this and looks so good at the same time really piqued my interest.
My run is still several months away and I'm actually glad it's that far down the road. It gives me time to save-up for this awesome mod.
My run is still several months away and I'm actually glad it's that far down the road. It gives me time to save-up for this awesome mod.
I was thinking of a switch where everything is always touching, just sometimes current runs through it and sometimes not. Contacts get dirty because of the little wee electrons jumping when the boat gets close enough, and then when it's just pulled away from the dock. .. . . . . . . . . . . no?
ok... just got caught up on this thread... Early on, I had some back and forth with pdib on the spring. I initially swapped out my spring for a BeCu one I had laying around. I got an improvement in test results. What was going on (what I believe was going on) was how the button was being pushed. I think Turbo hit directly on this point. Its not that the device wasnt conductive, it was how the electrons were flowing. If I didnt get good contact with the aluminum bolt to copper plate, current was traveling through the steel spring. So, I needed to adjust how I was pushing the button (a little bit off to side). When I put the BeCu spring in, it didnt matter how I pushed the button, all current paths were happy.
My OliveR just turned 3 (months old), so I bought him a present (BFCyclone with AFC). I also made him a matching traveling cap.
Wow!!!! LOVE your travel cap. Wonder if pdib can make me one?
Can you? Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
Wow!!!! LOVE your travel cap. Wonder if pdib can make me one?
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
what's the travel cap cap??
no... I mean where does it go? It won't fit over the atomizer.. is it to cap the button to prevent firing?
Based on the shape I *think* it goes on the drip tip. I could be wrong though.
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
I was thinking of a switch where everything is always touching, just sometimes current runs through it and sometimes not. Contacts get dirty because of the little wee electrons jumping when the boat gets close enough, and then when it's just pulled away from the dock. .. . . . . . . . . . . no?
Same thing I think. The battery is always in contact, the third pin bridges two fixed contacts that are statically set with preload. Same type of connection I see with your lateral movement firing button. Perhaps I'm way behind and you're onto the future of switching current.
all I can report is I never have cleaned my poldiac switch and it works the same every time. Had it about two months. I did upgrade to the rhodium parts though. 0.7ohm coil on genesis atty, 26 gauge ss mesh on ss cable, fer my cinnamon roll juice that doesn't taste as good on anything else.
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