that is a great idea.
I would try it too, except . . .. . . . all my drills are tight enough.
ha, a few of my chucks can't even clamp a 1/16" bit
PDIB's Making MODs!
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ha, a few of my chucks can't even clamp a 1/16" bit
aw ya know me, I got my ways..
that is GREAT news!
totally cool!
where'd you get the brass PacMan? Did Mr. Atari send you that? does brass PacMan have a Joystick?
First time I tried it, I somehow misunderstood Mundy's instructions. (I don't think he'd made the video yet). Anyway, I spent about four hours trying to do the initial twist on dual strands. I just about blew a nut across the room. Once Mundy set me straight, and I tried twisting a single strand . . . . . . duh . .. . . not so tough. (doable anyway)
There's a video? Where? I wanna see!!!!!
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Just type in Mundy's magic on YouTube. I hadn't ever seen it til now. Rip even built it and gave mundy credit. I need to get out more.
Ok so some good news ... and some bad.
which first? ok BAD first:
I'm sorry Bry, the spit-back proof will take a while due to limited equipment and not to mention other ongoing orders. The setup for machining the drip tip will get in the way and in this business; additional setup time = additional machine time = higher cost. I promise you though that I'm constantly searching and dealing with machine shops. I always have you guys' wishes in mind.
for some GOOD NEWS:
It doesn't require additional setup and machine time for a COPPER SLEEVE!!! So we'll have SS, Brass, and Copper! .. Possibly a sand-blasted version also!
For those who don't know the difference, Copper is much softer - more malleable than Brass ( due to the mix of zinc and copper in brass )
During my early naval career, I was tasked with polishing brass and copper in the ship. In my experience, Brass takes on a golden finish when polished and Copper takes on a rose gold finish which is noticeably darker than brass.
Polished COPPER:
Polished Brass:
I must be dense or something? But where was the lead time info? lol.
Link to the thread.
Alexander Mundy's Magic Twisted Ribbon
Link for recommended wire.
Kanthal A Ribbon resistance heating wire 0.6mm X 0.07mm
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Dude, that is so last week, this week is all about titanium macrocoils flash-frozen in zero-G wicked with koala nose-hair thread.
I must be dense or something? But where was the lead time info? lol.
Excellent question! ...
Next question please!
You forgot to hate on kanthal while you were on your rant. Please try again with negative kanthal statements, no back up documents allowed either.
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I thought this week was all about dumping e-juice on your head and sticking your finger in the socket
How'd you know that was what I was planning for lunch today. Nothing like making myself a human wick!
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this week is actually all about squonk holes. This run, I've been re-examining many of the processes in fabrication. I guess I've gotten comfortable enough with the process that I have the headspace for a little questioning and some small improvements in how I do things. Also, apparently, it's time to look at squonk holes. (i've no control over this stuff, it just happens) So, way back when, when initially designing this fling-flangin' mod, I tried a number of shapes for squonk holes. I settled on the simple one I've been doing because it was the most appealing to me. For me, form is wed with function, and any digression from that (unnecessary fanciness) is . . . . . .. "too many notes". However, I now have an excuse. In the interest of strengthening the squonk hole, I've spent a little time revisiting one of my earlier ideas (now justified by functional necessity). The hole is set ~ 1mm higher, the cut-away at bottom is 12mm deep instead of 15 (the top is now 16mm deep for "effect", and to keep the vertical centerpoint set back as far as possible), and the radius of the bottom corner is ~1/2" vs 1/4. So, there's less unsupported lip, thicker, and a fatter radius to support it.
Functionally, it's about the same: plenty of squeeze room on that bottle. There would be some chance that one would actually make contact with the wood when doing a deep (low fluids) squonk; however, I don't think it would impede "full throw".
So, the question is: how does it appeal, aesthetically?
I had thought in terms of getting some feedback, and then either changing to this style or not. However, as I was wrapping up the mock-up, I realized I can just offer it as an option.
(pic heavy for accuracy in representation)
Functionally, it's about the same: plenty of squeeze room on that bottle. There would be some chance that one would actually make contact with the wood when doing a deep (low fluids) squonk; however, I don't think it would impede "full throw".
So, the question is: how does it appeal, aesthetically?
I had thought in terms of getting some feedback, and then either changing to this style or not. However, as I was wrapping up the mock-up, I realized I can just offer it as an option.
(pic heavy for accuracy in representation)
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It looks really good but I can't tell with these old tired eyes but it appears to be a smaller hole 
not that it would be a bad thing (more pretty wood),
not that it would be a bad thing (more pretty wood), 
That test mule body has been tested now hasn't it
I like the way it looks / works currently but I certainly don't represent the masses.
I really like symmetry too. Current OliveR symmetric squonk hole would be my pick if only aesthetics were being considered.
I guess I'd have to squonk a new one to see if the feel outweighs form.
If you need my address again to send me one just let know
I like the way it looks / works currently but I certainly don't represent the masses.
I really like symmetry too. Current OliveR symmetric squonk hole would be my pick if only aesthetics were being considered.
I guess I'd have to squonk a new one to see if the feel outweighs form.
If you need my address again to send me one just let know
Unsure, the height is the same. The only difference is the depth of the cut toward the bottom. I tried to keep it deep enough for practical purposes. It should work, feel, fit the same. The only difference would be a slight potential for "touching bottom" (coming lightly into contact with the wood) on a "low dregs" desperation squonk.
this week is actually all about squonk holes. This run, I've been re-examining many of the processes in fabrication. I guess I've gotten comfortable enough with the process that I have the headspace for a little questioning and some small improvements in how I do things. Also, apparently, it's time to look at squonk holes. (i've no control over this stuff, it just happens) So, way back when, when initially designing this fling-flangin' mod, I tried a number of shapes for squonk holes. I settled on the simple one I've been doing because it was the most appealing to me. For me, form is wed with function, and any digression from that (unnecessary fanciness) is . . . . . .. "too many notes". However, I now have an excuse. In the interest of strengthening the squonk hole, I've spent a little time revisiting one of my earlier ideas (now justified by functional necessity). The hole is set ~ 1mm higher, the cut-away at bottom is 12mm deep instead of 15 (the top is now 16mm deep for "effect"), and the radius of the bottom corner is ~1/2" vs 1/4. So, there's less unsupported lip, thicker, and a fatter radius to support it.
Functionally, it's about the same: plenty of squeeze room on that bottle. There would be some chance that one would actually make contact with the wood when doing a deep (low fluids) squonk; however, I don't think it would impede "full throw".
So, the question is: how does it appeal, aesthetically?
I had thought in terms of getting some feedback, and then either changing to this style or not. However, as I was wrapping up the mock-up, I realized I can just offer it as an option.
(pic heavy for accuracy in representation)
I love it. Looks like a great big jaw opening up. I'll take it!
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