Penelope V2

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labin

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Mar 18, 2013
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I also finally got mine coiled and have got some comments of my own.
I will compare it to the V1 as that is my favourite Atty

Pros:
- It is now easier to fix the silver-wire
- Better Airflow
- Excellent simple solition to let the air out when screwing on top cap. No more fiddling to avoid chamber flooding.
- Other driptips are usable
- the telescopic center pin reduces the risk of the centerping getting loose inside the rebuildable part. A problem I regularly have with the v1-ones after repeatedly screwing and unscrewing it to a mod

Cons:
- too much increase in parts complexity -> more can go wrong
- adjustable center-pin is a good idea, but each time i screw the atty on, the screw of the pin gets screwed in.
Also the treading on it seems too loose. proably a different threading than on the 510 is used to prevent it from movement, but that doesn't work.
I spend considerable effort to keep voltage-drop on my mech. mods low, but this screw is so loose, I feel that a lot of voltage is lost there.
Also, after all those broken pin stories, I'm a bit afraid when I screw it on.
- changes of lenght of the rebuildable part and leaving away the ringy-screw, but not lenghtening the lower part (the vapor chamber) of the driptip holder in the same amount decreases the size of the vapor chamber, thus giving the vapor less space to mix with the vapor. this results in a drop of taste. not a strong one, but it's noticeable. I've tested this multiple times with the same setup and building materials (2x 3mm silica, 4 wraps of 0.25 nicrome, 0.9ohm) I've come to love and use on all my Penelopes

So at the moment:
mixed feelings

Cheers
lab
 

Aal_

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May 5, 2012
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you might still be able to use it on just GG, try to unscrew the screw on the connector more.
No Yankee , it broke of at the end- the penny v2 pin is flat now......

Yankee is my "Hero of the day" !!!!!! Thx Bro !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i flipped the Just GG Lid's Brass Center Pin, so that it won´t touch penny2´s 510 connection and give space for the air flow. Then i put it on my GGTS because the pin is able to reach the flipped Just GG Lid's Brass Center Pin, wich now is to short to come out of the Just GG SS Lid.

It works- my Penny ist back !!!!!!!!!!!!!
i can only use it with my GGTS for now, but thats ok with me until there will be a penny center pin v2.
 

Aal_

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I will comment a bit if I may

I also finally got mine coiled and have got some comments of my own.
I will compare it to the V1 as that is my favourite Atty

Pros:
- It is now easier to fix the silver-wire
- Better Airflow
- Excellent simple solition to let the air out when screwing on top cap. No more fiddling to avoid chamber flooding.
- Other driptips are usable
- the telescopic center pin reduces the risk of the centerping getting loose inside the rebuildable part. A problem I regularly have with the v1-ones after repeatedly screwing and unscrewing it to a mod

Cons:
- too much increase in parts complexity -> more can go wrong Can you give example of what might go wrong with more parts?
- adjustable center-pin is a good idea, but each time i screw the atty on, the screw of the pin gets screwed in.
Also the treading on it seems too loose. proably a different threading than on the 510 is used to prevent it from movement, but that doesn't work. It is done this way on purpose, it should screw by itself so that you get a flush look. Once it makes contact with the pin of the mod it stays in contact.
I spend considerable effort to keep voltage-drop on my mech. mods low, but this screw is so loose, I feel that a lot of voltage is lost there. Are you sure or you are just speculating, because this idea was done on ithaka before and it never affected voltage. As i said once the contact is made it is a fairly enough contact.
Also, after all those broken pin stories, I'm a bit afraid when I screw it on. Just take care with that, I know it worries us all.
- changes of lenght of the rebuildable part and leaving away the ringy-screw, but not lenghtening the lower part (the vapor chamber) of the driptip holder in the same amount decreases the size of the vapor chamber, thus giving the vapor less space to mix with the vapor. this results in a drop of taste. not a strong one, but it's noticeable. I've tested this multiple times with the same setup and building materials (2x 3mm silica, 4 wraps of 0.25 nicrome, 0.9ohm) I've come to love and use on all my Penelopes
a Smaller chamber is always good as long as you have good airflow. I rebuild coils on protanks. Have you seen the chamber on those? no chamber at all. smaller chamber leads to better flavour and it is a consensus among vapors (unless anything changed since then). But anyway opening the mouthpiece will give you more room. Are you saying when your mouthpiece is fully closed it touches the top of the ceramic housing? Isn't this the case with all GG atomizers. I don't get it.
So at the moment:
mixed feelings

Cheers
lab
 

yankeebobo

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you might still be able to use it on just GG, try to unscrew the screw on the connector more.

This will work as long as what's left of the brass can still maintain enough thread inside the post to hold. The pin in the 519 lid is wider. It won't go up into the 510 without touching the side walls. And the pins make threads are not too long. You may only have a turn or two catching the post.
 

Aal_

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This will work as long as what's left of the brass can still maintain enough thread inside the post to hold. The pin in the 519 lid is wider. It won't go up into the 510 without touching the side walls. And the pins make threads are not too long. You may only have a turn or two catching the post.

i did not understand anything but ok
 

yankeebobo

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i did not understand anything but ok

You will when you have it in your hands. The brass piece has the male threads. Look at my photo above of the thin wings and how long they are. If they break off, a good amount of brass broke off. And in order for that brass to reach out and meet the pos post of the mod, it means less threads hold it.
 

yankeebobo

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The ithaka brass was female threading. So the SS was male. Not a lot of length was lost if you removed the brass. This time Imeo reversed it. The brass has the male. EVERYTHING past the SS post except maybe .5-1mm is breakable. What's left is stuck up there for a 510 mod to reach into.

rese4yja.jpg
 

D Stanley Querfurth

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you might still be able to use it on just GG, try to unscrew the screw on the connector more.

thx aal,

but the flipped Just GG Lid's Brass Center Pin now reaches into the penny ,
this way it is to short to come out of the Just GG SS Lid and
won´t connect to the Just GG Collector Tank's Brass Center Pin ,
but the inside pin of the GGTS SS Connector is small and long enough to touch it.

when i rebuild the penny i will try to get the rest of the bottom brass pin a little more unscrewed, so it will work with Just GG.

all the best
Stan
 

Fesso

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order in today. have not idea what I am going to place P V2 on but I really need a smaller unit for out and about. Enjoy ithaka at home and work but really need something more compact. Been dreaming of a side by side GG unit for years but unless I have it custom made I am not sure it will happen.

Penelope (and V2 i assume) fits real nice on epipemods if you don't have a GG stealth.
IMG_20121229_175253.jpg
 
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