Maybe your negative wire caught between the threads of the ceramic housing and base. That's about all I can think of for it to suddenly bind up halfway out like that
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That could actually also be a possibility. With the first two coils it was too messy and I had some funky stuff going on with the negative wire. First one didn't want to tuck in very well and the second one had a messy connection at the R and NR wire that was contacting the juice control. I'm pretty sure that was the problem with assembly #2 and Imeo came to the same conclusion based on my description. My resistance was changing when I spun the juice control so it makes sense. I pitched that coil as I really didn't want to damage anything. Not sure if an Atomizer short could actually take out a ProVari...but I didn't want to try to repair it and risk it.
Once you manage to get it all apart check for burs or anything causing the threads to lock. The one Penelope I was able to use was also very very tight in the threads. I took the atomizer out and totally apart. I took the steel housing off the atomizer, and the base and started to thread them in and out down to the bottom using dish soap and water as a lube. Thread it all the way in and out pulling then pushing on the threads while doing it. This causes the thread walls to smooth out and removes any residue on them. After a few full thread in's it became smooth as silk (when dry). Washing these parts well with dish soap and exercising the threads while doing it is key. It's also a good idea to get any residue left over from the machine shop off as it doesn't make the juice taste very good. The thread job on Imeo's stuff is so damn good that just residue will cause it to seize up. Clean them well!
The other thing that makes the base tough to screw/unscrew is the o-ring on the bottom pin. It's a little tall, and by the time you get the + pin where it should be to work you've had to use a ton of preasure. That o-ring needs a tiny bit of vasoline on the bottom to help it spin easier when you tighten it into the base. Dare I say it needs a slightly shorter o-ring installed for those of us using ProVari's. If your air flow is too tight, you'll have to screw the atomizer in even more to get that pin set so the base has a small gap between it and the device. These o-rings will be problematic down the road and be the thing we replace most often.
The Penelope would have done well with the same two air flow channels the Ody V2 has. With these the pin issue would be less trouble and the tank would rest on the top of the battery device solid while still having good air flow. heh, maybe V2 Penelope lol.
Overall I'm very happy with the Penelope and the Ody. Once you understand what they need, you're gtg. Now if I can manage to get the rest of my parts to make the other 2 work, I'll be good.
Thanks for the comprehensive answer Dave. I think it either needed working in or there was a loose wire due to my shoddy coil workmanship. Before assembling it the first time I had washed everything thoroughly in warm soapy water and then rinsed and dried. At that time the threading was working well with the exception of the positive wire nut which needed to be worked back and forth a lot due to a few tiny burrs that I noticed. One those were worked out I rewashed everything to get any residual metal out.
The first time I created a coil I left the negative wire a lot longer then it needed to be because due to a misunderstanding on my part on how it had to tuck in. I believe it probably worked it's way loose and ended up jamming the threads a bit. Luckily no damage was done to the threads as I have now re-assembled it a few times due atomizer experimentation. Thankfully I've found a combination that works for me and I'm pretty happy with my now much neater coils.
I have both of them sitting on Provari's and while it is a little difficult to get the last bit of the turn in to expose the post I can manage it easily without shredding my fingers. I may look into a slightly slimmer o-ring in the future because I find that taking the cup housing out of the base ends up loosening the positive wire terminal. I think the pressure on the o-ring gives it a few turns before it's relieved. It's not a huge hassle and I imagine the only time I'll be taking it off the base is to rebuild now that I've got the coils down.
Thanks again for all of the tips!
The first time I created a coil I left the negative wire a lot longer then it needed to be because due to a misunderstanding on my part on how it had to tuck in. I believe it probably worked it's way loose and ended up jamming the threads a bit. Luckily no damage was done to the threads as I have now re-assembled it a few times due atomizer experimentation. Thankfully I've found a combination that works for me and I'm pretty happy with my now much neater coils.
I have both of them sitting on Provari's and while it is a little difficult to get the last bit of the turn in to expose the post I can manage it easily without shredding my fingers. I may look into a slightly slimmer o-ring in the future because I find that taking the cup housing out of the base ends up loosening the positive wire terminal. I think the pressure on the o-ring gives it a few turns before it's relieved. It's not a huge hassle and I imagine the only time I'll be taking it off the base is to rebuild now that I've got the coils down.
Thanks again for all of the tips!
You're very welcome. Other ECF folks helped me out a ton. Just trying to do my bit to give back is all.
In case you haven't seen it, this video is all you'll ever need in terms of building these tanks.
Review of the Odysseus repairable atomiser for electronic cigarettes by E-Cig-Reviews.com
It's for an Ody, but the principles are the same. He covers everything and even shows how to stack a 2nd tip on the wick.
If/when you manage to get some .999 silver NR wire you'll have a much easier time of getting the + wire set well. The current NR wire is very stiff and requires a lot of torque and twisting to get seated in the wee little nut. The silver wire is like butter. The - side is also easier with the silver as it doesn't fight with the control nut nearly as much. Bottom line is if you can get it going well with those premade wires, you'll find the self made jobs even easier to install. It's a bit of a learning curve, but well worth it. These tanks are beyond amazing when woring as intended.
I'm using 30 GWA .999 silver wire and 34 or 36 Kanthal(Depending on desired resistance). Basically COV had nothing available at the I ordered these and I couldn't get an answer on availability so I ordered from some other sources. I have a lot of those materials to play with at least. It's been fun experimenting.
My error was that my coil twists for lack of a better term, sucked. While my wire was tucked into the channels a piece of coil sticking out was contacting the juice pipe. I'm 99 percent sure that's what was happening as my ohms would jump all over the place every time I changed the juice control. Learning curve stuff.
I've pre-made a bunch of my own wires with the help of a small pair of pliers and clippers. No more problems and every atomizer I make is turning out at 2.8-3.0 which is my desired range. It took about 4 hours to get it all ironed out but it was well worth it. These Penelope's are pretty darn nice.
My error was that my coil twists for lack of a better term, sucked. While my wire was tucked into the channels a piece of coil sticking out was contacting the juice pipe. I'm 99 percent sure that's what was happening as my ohms would jump all over the place every time I changed the juice control. Learning curve stuff.
I've pre-made a bunch of my own wires with the help of a small pair of pliers and clippers. No more problems and every atomizer I make is turning out at 2.8-3.0 which is my desired range. It took about 4 hours to get it all ironed out but it was well worth it. These Penelope's are pretty darn nice.
Lubricate the bottom oring in the center pin, if you dont its difficult to remove the rebuildable part from base and also the nut where you trap the ire will loose up when you unscrew from base; with lubricate oring it goes in and out with np 
If you're missing the plastic ring between wire nut and ceramic housing you will have a dead short. If you have any CE2 cartos laying around, the little silicone washer that sits on top, between fill holes and mouth piece, should work to replace it. You just need something nonconductive to keep the center pin from touching ceramic housing.
I pre-order Penelope month ago just now receive Them
today and come with missing upper connection nut.
With put the nut the Penelope is useless.
Email a couple email to cov but no response back.
Any help would appreciate. Thanks
today and come with missing upper connection nut.
With put the nut the Penelope is useless.
Email a couple email to cov but no response back.
Any help would appreciate. Thanks
Vincent,
I am sorry, but I am working as hard as I can to get to all of the CS tickets that have been placed. If you have placed a ticket, I will get to you as soon as I can, I am sorry for your wait and inconvenience.
~ Justin
I am sorry, but I am working as hard as I can to get to all of the CS tickets that have been placed. If you have placed a ticket, I will get to you as soon as I can, I am sorry for your wait and inconvenience.
~ Justin
I'm not putting blame on anyone and would rather get mods and parts whenver it's possible vs never at all. We all want Imeo's products and should feel lucky that COV guys actually get the product from Imeo to us. There are certainly QC issues and there seems to be quite a few. Imeo is turning thousands of parts, it's a big job. The COV guys receive process and ship thousands of parts, again a pretty big job. On top of that both parties make themselvs available to us for help and support as well as becoming aquatances with thier customers because they actually care about thier product as well as thier customers.
I know both parties also, do all they can to keep costs low and that is a good thing. Would it be more effective to get loaded up on parts on the COV end and actually check each product for missing parts, replace if anything is missing and ship, rather than deal with all the service tickets? All the leftover parts would surely get sold. Yes this would be a lot more work but in the end there wouldn't be the volume of service tickets. Also when the parts are produced and put together they could possibly do a QC check as well, again more work. But in the end everyone would have a known good working product when it arrives and service tickets would be at a minimum. As good as Imeo's mods are, when they are missing parts they are just paperweights. (no offence to anybody)
I'm not telling anyone how to run thier business and I'm not saying I am right, just wanted to state my humble opinion and maybe give some food for thought.
Take it easy-n-at,
Jeff
ETA We as customers should be understanding of what these guys do for us and how busy they are. When dealing with them we should be patient and understanding. I'm sure 5 years ago none of them thought they would be doing what they are doing now.
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Thanks Jeff.
We do try to do QC on all products, all we get are pieces and have to assemble each mod, which is why a few might have had mistakes on the finished product (complete mod).
We carefully look for any cracks or damage before we use a ceramic, we make sure to clean all of the threadings and make sure that everything fits together by hand before we ship them out. (as they need assembly in the first place.)
That said...
Sometimes be it through extra help, or just tired eyes, occationally things get missed It is a very unfortunate occurance but like anything, from time to time, it does happen.
We are sorry guys and I am working hard to resolve any issues that might be coming in as soon as I can.
We do try to do QC on all products, all we get are pieces and have to assemble each mod, which is why a few might have had mistakes on the finished product (complete mod).
We carefully look for any cracks or damage before we use a ceramic, we make sure to clean all of the threadings and make sure that everything fits together by hand before we ship them out. (as they need assembly in the first place.)
That said...
Sometimes be it through extra help, or just tired eyes, occationally things get missed
It is a very unfortunate occurance but like anything, from time to time, it does happen.We are sorry guys and I am working hard to resolve any issues that might be coming in as soon as I can.
I did not realize this. I thought you got them just as we do, assembled. So you are doing an awful lot of work as it is and I'm sure everyone is appriciative of that. I understand that you are doing your best and no one can do or ask any more than that.
The good thing is that people love the products you provide and you will never have a problem with leftover inventory.
Hopefully with time things will become easier on you. The last thing we would want is for you to throw your hands in the air and say screw it.
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I'd rather it be like most other bussinesses I deal with. I pay them what they ask for, and they send me the product...complete. Pretty easy really. Justin: If you have so many support tickets you can't manage to get back to people in under 48 hours, who's fault is that? More importantly, what does that say about COV's level of professionalism? You say "Occasionally" above. If it's so rare, why are you so swamped with support emails? Are the customers somehow at fault here?
Day 4 with only an automated reply to show for it.
Day 4 with only an automated reply to show for it.
Dave, you misunderstand if you think that every CS ticket I receive is about something missing or faulty parts. It is because I receive 30 to 40 tickets on average a day asking many things, mostly where is my order, and is it confirmed; outside of any "issue" tickets.
Most of my CS tickets are people asking for updates on their orders. I usually get all CS Tickets answered within 24 hours of recieving them.
Thanks.
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@ tap :
We would never throw our hands up and say screw it... exepct for the idea of saying screw it... to that we say...*hands thrown up* screw that!!
Most of my CS tickets are people asking for updates on their orders. I usually get all CS Tickets answered within 24 hours of recieving them.
Thanks.
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@ tap :
We would never throw our hands up and say screw it... exepct for the idea of saying screw it... to that we say...*hands thrown up* screw that!!
Yay, I just got a message from Justin stating the missing parts for my Penelopes is coming with my Ody ceramics I ordered this morning.. thanks Justin and the cov team...
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
@ tap :
We would never throw our hands up and say screw it... exepct for the idea of saying screw it... to that we say...*hands thrown up* screw that!!
This is good to hear.
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