@Mactavish no idea what the off-yellow tank is made of mate. I just assume both are plastic, and avoid highly acidic juices in either of them. lol
Pico RTA
- Thread starter Quantum Mech
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Im not sure what the clone versions from China come with but the original is made in Korea and thats where I got mine from.
All it came in was a round plastic container and inside was just the atomizer itself with the pek seethru top and spare O-ings and screws. Thats it.
All it came in was a round plastic container and inside was just the atomizer itself with the pek seethru top and spare O-ings and screws. Thats it.
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Ok thanks! If you have a spare minute at some point, could you take a pic of the base/510 assembly so I can maybe see what is missing?
I'm vaping the original pico clone from 3f with clr heads along side the ego mega tank. The mega makes a more dense and mkre flavorful vape with literally the same coil and juice. It's a quarter of an inch taller and holds more juice.
I'm curious if the s is substantially better.
Tying to build the clone wth the regular deck is a disaster. The scfes barely hold 28 gauge - t keeps sliding out. This is probably fine to the fact you can't screw the piece into anything when you build you're holding it all in hand.
So far the two post portion is terrible and the ego one adaptor - the top chimney part is way too short.
If the clone is 1:1 - which the 3f blog shied side by side - I'm shocked the pico is getting he acclaim it is. I wouldn't be surprised if the decks crews suck on the clone. But the clr kit part - if rift. Is not good enough. And either way when built the super easy to change and fill ego mega tank which costs like )13 is yielding much much better results.
I'm just not sure the clone is worth messing with. And after messing with the he clone I'm Derek my convinced the authentic isn't.
Clones can have a lot of Susie's. Leaning. Tolerances are off. But generally the flavor and density you get from them is pretty close to the authentic counterparts. I really want to get one in hand to see if it's as badly designed add the clone. Because I really don't get the love for this device.
I'm open to the fact here's a way to build it while inside he chimney base - I did it that way too and he wires still didn't capture right.
If say so far clone or not this is the biggest overhyped atomizer I've tried.
Can someone with an authentic post an image of the clr chimney top? - is there some easy to build method I'm missing here - maybe I'm making it over complicated.
I will say base don every image I've seen the clone loops truly 1:1. Which just... Confuses me. So many people rave about this thing.but it can't even mount to a meter to be built. Which means no real Torque. I'll see if I have some bigger screws which fit.
I also own a goblin mini and frankly it seems like a much better device wih far better air flow. Easier to build and dual coil options with w single coil adapter.inreally only tied the pico for the clr adaptor parts.
I guess I'll
Order a $19 Tron t tank for my mini volt stealth setup
Edit 2. The build
Videos I saw all used the screws in post. I failed to realize it was built with the 90'degree bend and in no actually have some
Premade coils from the grip rba which are built like this. Sweet vapes has them if you don't want to build. I may try those. But I still
Say chimney top is too short.
I'm curious if the s is substantially better.
Tying to build the clone wth the regular deck is a disaster. The scfes barely hold 28 gauge - t keeps sliding out. This is probably fine to the fact you can't screw the piece into anything when you build you're holding it all in hand.
So far the two post portion is terrible and the ego one adaptor - the top chimney part is way too short.
If the clone is 1:1 - which the 3f blog shied side by side - I'm shocked the pico is getting he acclaim it is. I wouldn't be surprised if the decks crews suck on the clone. But the clr kit part - if rift. Is not good enough. And either way when built the super easy to change and fill ego mega tank which costs like )13 is yielding much much better results.
I'm just not sure the clone is worth messing with. And after messing with the he clone I'm Derek my convinced the authentic isn't.
Clones can have a lot of Susie's. Leaning. Tolerances are off. But generally the flavor and density you get from them is pretty close to the authentic counterparts. I really want to get one in hand to see if it's as badly designed add the clone. Because I really don't get the love for this device.
I'm open to the fact here's a way to build it while inside he chimney base - I did it that way too and he wires still didn't capture right.
If say so far clone or not this is the biggest overhyped atomizer I've tried.
Can someone with an authentic post an image of the clr chimney top? - is there some easy to build method I'm missing here - maybe I'm making it over complicated.
I will say base don every image I've seen the clone loops truly 1:1. Which just... Confuses me. So many people rave about this thing.but it can't even mount to a meter to be built. Which means no real Torque. I'll see if I have some bigger screws which fit.
I also own a goblin mini and frankly it seems like a much better device wih far better air flow. Easier to build and dual coil options with w single coil adapter.inreally only tied the pico for the clr adaptor parts.
I guess I'll
Order a $19 Tron t tank for my mini volt stealth setup
Edit 2. The build
Videos I saw all used the screws in post. I failed to realize it was built with the 90'degree bend and in no actually have some
Premade coils from the grip rba which are built like this. Sweet vapes has them if you don't want to build. I may try those. But I still
Say chimney top is too short.
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Think this maybe the seal your looking for @TheotherSteveS
Maybe an old style kanger coil gromit that traps the wires will cut to size and do the job
Just got my 3f Pico clone. Put a CLR coil in. Good flavor. Put my mod on charge overnight with about 1/3 juice. By Morning tank had dumped. Had to run out to work so I did not have time to investigate, but looked like it leaked through AFC holes.
I'm having trouble with my FT Pico clone. I'm unable to get a good connection and my mods tell me "no atomizer" or similar message.
$10.89 Pico Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3ml / 316 stainless steel + PEI / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Anybody run into this and know solution?
$10.89 Pico Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 3ml / 316 stainless steel + PEI / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Anybody run into this and know solution?
Got it working with help from a fellow on the FT forums. Used some tweezers to help tighten down the deck/chamber to the base and finally made connection!
Made a clapton coil with 28awg+32awg both kanthal, 4 wraps on 2mm bit, it shows .88ohm on the YIHI but .95 on the minivolt. Well, it doesn't matter coz the flavor is amazing!
Does anybody know what the chimney and the surrounding portion is made of on 3f 1:1 clone. Heat that close to plastic from China concerns me so I believe in using after however it is stipulated that it is a PEEK chimney can anyone confirm ? I think the authentic micro hanger and chimney made from a more heat resistant material would fit ok - but if the clone actually has a peek chamber and chimney then I'd likely least try it - I have no desire to vape Chinese toy plastic. If the pico wasn't so ridiculously priced id probably buy an authentic but for close to $250 when I won two supposed 1:1 clones. No thanks. Maybe just sub in the authentic parts if needed.
Color matches confirmed peek insulators. I doubt they'd get the plastic color perfect if it wasn't but still....Anyone ?
Judging by the color of the fast tech s version there's no way that's peek or Delrin or fan... Brain fart ... The really ugly yellow plastic everyone is starting to use.
$59 for he micro chamber and chimney. Sheesh nridiculous.
And yes. I was very very harsh about this atomizer. It's good with the clr. I need to confirm in not vaping massive chemicals with you plastic and see how it is with the regular base.
Color matches confirmed peek insulators. I doubt they'd get the plastic color perfect if it wasn't but still....Anyone ?
Judging by the color of the fast tech s version there's no way that's peek or Delrin or fan... Brain fart ... The really ugly yellow plastic everyone is starting to use.
$59 for he micro chamber and chimney. Sheesh nridiculous.
And yes. I was very very harsh about this atomizer. It's good with the clr. I need to confirm in not vaping massive chemicals with you plastic and see how it is with the regular base.
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Oh and @mike_chen and others. Lightening vapes has 28/36 Clapton wire in. They have stainless or kanthal core and stainless or kanthal wrap.
I'm trying the peek micro chamber. I'd like to find a chimney but nobody stocks the peek chimney as its a replacement part. Any ideas ?
I'll let everyone know if it fits. The tank performs even better with a build than the clr. I'm surprised how flavorful it is. I'm generally impressed with flavor and density. Also when not using clr the air flow is much greater. So buying .5 or temp control clr coils is necessary to have it function closer to intended and use AFC to control air rather than a bottleneck in the coil or reduction from the coil.
I'm trying the peek micro chamber. I'd like to find a chimney but nobody stocks the peek chimney as its a replacement part. Any ideas ?
I'll let everyone know if it fits. The tank performs even better with a build than the clr. I'm surprised how flavorful it is. I'm generally impressed with flavor and density. Also when not using clr the air flow is much greater. So buying .5 or temp control clr coils is necessary to have it function closer to intended and use AFC to control air rather than a bottleneck in the coil or reduction from the coil.
Attachments
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For those interested in a very flavorful build in the pico
Lightening vapes Clapton wire as specified I would build
28k/36k
You can see with the build size in the pico and resistance why this wire works so well
For mtl or restricted lung applications. Highly recommend. This is a 2.5 id to test. I'll probably go back to 2mm id when I rebuild. Depends how well it wicks. I wick quite heavy and use thick juice as I stated. So there may be some hanguos with this much. Not sure yet.
That said The the stance of this tank seems a bit inconsistent. Don't think
It
Would be good for temp
Control. I went with one too many wraps I think. Should be six including legs to get 1 ohm ish. One more wrap bumped me up .2. So go one less or
Go with a higher resistance. I prefer the one less route. The increase in heat up is noticeable from 6 to 7 wraps at 2.5mm. Anyway it's a start. Next one will be six wraps st 2. This vapes wel enough so far I won't rush to rebuild. Don't seem to
Have issues with the deck screws as you can see the wire fits under well. Density is drastically improved with this Clapton wire. But over 6 really does make it drag s little backside on the first draw. One ohm builds with this wire hear fast enough to be negligible from 28 gauge standard. I think most of You would be big fans. Wick is native wicks premium Blend. Yes it's probably repurposed. Yes it is "expensive" for three feet. But that three feet makes something like 125-150 wicks like this. Minimum. If you use thick juice and are frustrated by most cotton this one does very very well. Similar to
Cotton bacon with limited beak in if any bt it seems to wick my thick stuff slightly better. Ni til I can source s lifetime box of the same stuff form the actual manufacturer j have no issue with $20 a year for fantastic wick. Kgd doesn't hold a candle. And I resisted "expensive" wicks for s long time. But some really are that much better.
Lightening vapes Clapton wire as specified I would build
28k/36k
You can see with the build size in the pico and resistance why this wire works so well
For mtl or restricted lung applications. Highly recommend. This is a 2.5 id to test. I'll probably go back to 2mm id when I rebuild. Depends how well it wicks. I wick quite heavy and use thick juice as I stated. So there may be some hanguos with this much. Not sure yet.
That said The the stance of this tank seems a bit inconsistent. Don't think
It
Would be good for temp
Control. I went with one too many wraps I think. Should be six including legs to get 1 ohm ish. One more wrap bumped me up .2. So go one less or
Go with a higher resistance. I prefer the one less route. The increase in heat up is noticeable from 6 to 7 wraps at 2.5mm. Anyway it's a start. Next one will be six wraps st 2. This vapes wel enough so far I won't rush to rebuild. Don't seem to
Have issues with the deck screws as you can see the wire fits under well. Density is drastically improved with this Clapton wire. But over 6 really does make it drag s little backside on the first draw. One ohm builds with this wire hear fast enough to be negligible from 28 gauge standard. I think most of You would be big fans. Wick is native wicks premium Blend. Yes it's probably repurposed. Yes it is "expensive" for three feet. But that three feet makes something like 125-150 wicks like this. Minimum. If you use thick juice and are frustrated by most cotton this one does very very well. Similar to
Cotton bacon with limited beak in if any bt it seems to wick my thick stuff slightly better. Ni til I can source s lifetime box of the same stuff form the actual manufacturer j have no issue with $20 a year for fantastic wick. Kgd doesn't hold a candle. And I resisted "expensive" wicks for s long time. But some really are that much better.
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I ordered a micro chamber for he original 1:1 (supposedly) 3f clone. It screws in the base perfectly. The default chimney fits perfectly. The deck base fits in the circle. The deck won't by default slide into the slot.
The fix was to dissemble the deck and slide it into the micro chamber. Once in pop the other terminal back down and secure it from the bottom. The deck fits inside it just can't get past the first tiny bit. This tells me (I tried two decks) that's here's an inoerfection in the micro chamber I received.
From here I crewed the whole assembly into the base. Only two turn. I popped the deck out so it was barely in and screwed the chamber in around it. I repeated this about fifty times. It uses the torque of the threading to force the deck into the chamber. Because he fit was only off by a hair it worked to "wear in" the micro chamber to fit the clone deck.
Hope that helps anyone considering he micro chamber authentic piece.
A small note if you shop for authentic parts. I have no idea what yellowkiss was thinking by releasing ultem chamber parts. The melting point is less than half of peek and it is WELL within the average vape temperature. The bottom line is uktem is not a heat resistant plastic. It's a shatter and crack resistant plastic. Will absolutely not vape a plastic with s marketing point of 3999f a mm from my coil. You can make your own choices but to pay more for the worse version of a product because it's a buzz item right now. It's ridiculous. This was a very poor choice and is suds gesr getting he peak micro chamber if you want one.
Now then I just have to figure out s build that doesn't get hot kegs and wicks properly.
The fix was to dissemble the deck and slide it into the micro chamber. Once in pop the other terminal back down and secure it from the bottom. The deck fits inside it just can't get past the first tiny bit. This tells me (I tried two decks) that's here's an inoerfection in the micro chamber I received.
From here I crewed the whole assembly into the base. Only two turn. I popped the deck out so it was barely in and screwed the chamber in around it. I repeated this about fifty times. It uses the torque of the threading to force the deck into the chamber. Because he fit was only off by a hair it worked to "wear in" the micro chamber to fit the clone deck.
Hope that helps anyone considering he micro chamber authentic piece.
A small note if you shop for authentic parts. I have no idea what yellowkiss was thinking by releasing ultem chamber parts. The melting point is less than half of peek and it is WELL within the average vape temperature. The bottom line is uktem is not a heat resistant plastic. It's a shatter and crack resistant plastic. Will absolutely not vape a plastic with s marketing point of 3999f a mm from my coil. You can make your own choices but to pay more for the worse version of a product because it's a buzz item right now. It's ridiculous. This was a very poor choice and is suds gesr getting he peak micro chamber if you want one.
Now then I just have to figure out s build that doesn't get hot kegs and wicks properly.
FYI the problem lies with the micro chamber. The mounding or casting or whatever is wrong. Here's the base. Look at 12 I clock. See the lip there? It should blend back into the inner wall like the stock stuff. The sides are even off. Shaving down with a razor fixes the issue but for an atomizers who that all I'm costs a lot of people over $200 and for a $20 tiny piece of plastic the attention to detail and quality control are very much lacking.
This Side isn't too bad
This side is much worse and the main issue
This is how the bottom part should look
Again you're looking at the part where the terminals sit - the outside of the deck terminal area.
And here's a pico micro chamber build with nichrome (to get more wraps with resistance. It's about 1.15 ohm) . The YouTube video on it is poor. Just build at an angle that cusses he coil to effectively touch each then you twist s tiny bum it and raise. No need to adjust legs and such.
Not really seeming to be a lot of interest in this thread and I think
I've added all that I can. Pm me if you have questions about the micro chamber. I won't be monitoring the thread due to
Lack of response
Cheers! Hope it's helpful for
Someone.
This Side isn't too bad
This side is much worse and the main issue
This is how the bottom part should look
Again you're looking at the part where the terminals sit - the outside of the deck terminal area.
And here's a pico micro chamber build with nichrome (to get more wraps with resistance. It's about 1.15 ohm) . The YouTube video on it is poor. Just build at an angle that cusses he coil to effectively touch each then you twist s tiny bum it and raise. No need to adjust legs and such.
Not really seeming to be a lot of interest in this thread and I think
I've added all that I can. Pm me if you have questions about the micro chamber. I won't be monitoring the thread due to
Lack of response
Cheers! Hope it's helpful for
Someone.
Thanks Hooligan for the info... I got frustrated with the Pico because so fiddly but if I go back to it I will refer to all your notes above.
It is somewhat fiddly. And I honk worse for that is the fact it doesn't really offer s vape as good as some other tanks for your trouble. I'm shocked the vape world has embraced it so amazingly that the prices hold for them. I think maybe in the USA it's not that popular but worldwide. I bought the clones to Use with CLR coils and became curious about how the build would do. The issue I have with it is density. Flavor is ok but the vape quality is a little on the thing side. I'm not talking amount of vapor produced but the density of what is.
Compared to the cloud one, taifun gt2, Mark
Bugs gem, spheroid , heron v2 , phenomenon lite. They're all better vape so far than what I get from this. I'll try s few more builds and as I have two I'll side by side the clr and this other. Hotel fully it's something in my build
With 29 gauge wire it's not too bad in the build though even rewicking takes a full rinse or it will slide right out of your fingers
Add to all bat barely a 2ml tank and it's not Enti Inc particularly. The flavor seeks good. But not any better than other good small tanks which cost less and are better made - and much simpler to rebuild.
Over engineered - coming out of Japan right ?
Yeah, I'm running Calix V2, Phenomenon lite and KFMV3s right now and they are easy peasy and the flavor is stellar. I simply kept the Pico to run CLR coils when I feel like it and retired any building on it for all the reasons you point out above.
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