Powerful batteries
- Thread starter Ephraim Cooper
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I use the same coils all the time. I never change. They ohm out at .31 and Hex Ohm reccomends .2 or higher so I think Im safe as far as that goes. Im just mad I got ripped off on the batteries. I was told they wud hit harder. And it turns out theyre junk. I havnt had any heating issues. They dont overheat or anything. Im just disappointed that they arent truly 40amps like the package says.
Different cells have a different CDR.
Higher mah, lower CDR.
Higher CDR, lower mah.
You're in way over your head, you need to slow way down or stop before you get yourself into a dangerous situation.
Start with the basics.
Higher mah, lower CDR.
Higher CDR, lower mah.
You're in way over your head, you need to slow way down or stop before you get yourself into a dangerous situation.
Start with the basics.
Think of it this way. If it was a car, mAh is the size of the gas tank, and the Amp rating is the top speed.
edit: ok, Amp rating is more like the Horsepower.
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Point being,
if you had the knowledge & experience to be using the power device you are safely, you wouldn't have any of these questions that clearly illustrate you don't have a grasp on the very beginning basics of vaping safely.
Im not in any dangers. I use the same mod, same batteries, and same build all the time. I never change. Just getting advice. I never put my mod in my pocket. I only vape at home. I do everything safe. Just getting input thats all.
That isn't so, ' what if ' the cells you're using are actually 10a CDR or 6a CDR?
There is no telling what cell is under the wrap.
Could be 6a CDR also might be 20a CDR no way for anyone to say with any certainty.
Again, re read the responses you've received, watch the videos.
If you still don't understand the very beginning basics of battery safety & selection then ask a question.
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For some reason your not understanding, almost seems like your not reading what is being wrote, not watching the videos supplied.
You shouldn't put your safety in other peoples hands, you need to know what you're doing & why, what is & isn't safe and why.
I already gave my best advice, set aside the hex ohm and get a decent regulated power device to use as you learn.
Decent meaning - fully regulated, full / normal protection circuitry, a screen that displays all pertinent info, buck/boost circuitry, comes with an instruction / owners manual that you should read before using, and new authentic name brand cells from a reputable source that have a sufficient CDR to support your amp demands.
You shouldn't put your safety in other peoples hands, you need to know what you're doing & why, what is & isn't safe and why.
I already gave my best advice, set aside the hex ohm and get a decent regulated power device to use as you learn.
Decent meaning - fully regulated, full / normal protection circuitry, a screen that displays all pertinent info, buck/boost circuitry, comes with an instruction / owners manual that you should read before using, and new authentic name brand cells from a reputable source that have a sufficient CDR to support your amp demands.
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Ephraim, looks like your a stout promoter of Darwinism. Kudos for that.
I hate brown-nosing though.
Now stop behaving like a pimpled, stubborn teenager and do your f**king homework, because if you don't, you'll probably end up in the news.
I hate brown-nosing though.
Now stop behaving like a pimpled, stubborn teenager and do your f**king homework, because if you don't, you'll probably end up in the news.
Ive used the hex ohm 6 months with no issues. Me and my wife own one. I spent 200 bucks on it for the lifetime warrenty. Ive never once had an issue. The only issue is people tell me these Imren 40amp batteries arent really 40amp and cud be unsafe. Ill buy new batteries before I trash a perfectly good performing mod. I use the same build always. It ohms out at.35 and Hex Ohm recomends above .2. Ive done nothing unsafe outside of the questionable batteries. Ive used these batteries along with my wige and they havnt even remotely heated up at all. But I may get different batteries if they may be unsafe. But I love the Hex Ohm. Im not giving up something we invested 400 dollars in when Ive never had a problem. My build is perfectly safe. Its 8 wraps of 28×2+38 nichrome fused claptons. The box never heats up. My rda never even gets hot. Ill keep the mod and get some reliable safe batteries like some sonys. Im on the web now as we speak looking at batteries and researching battery safety. But there is nothing wrong with my mod. It has an off button. It has a safety chip in it and my ohms r dead on for my build. I run it on full power and never had an issue. Id recommend the Hex Ohm 3 to any vapor. Its a safe mod. It wont even fire if there's something wrong. Its regulated it just doesnt have a screen. The batteries the problem not the mod. It has a lifetime warrenty. I wont own another mod till they come out with the Hex Ohm 4. Ill be the first to buy it. I highly recommend it.Ephraim, looks like your a stout promoter of Darwinism. Kudos for that.
I hate brown-nosing though.
I
Now stop behaving like a pimpled, stubborn teenager and do your f**king homework, because if you don't, you'll probably end up in the news.
And still you don't know anything about your gear or how it works.
No matter what you paid for it, no matter what kind of device you use, the main safety factor is you.
And it's obvious that you don't even have a single clue. Everything you say oozes ignorance. That's just stupid. Simple as that.
No matter what you paid for it, no matter what kind of device you use, the main safety factor is you.
And it's obvious that you don't even have a single clue. Everything you say oozes ignorance. That's just stupid. Simple as that.
I put batteries in it. I ohm out correctly and Ive never had an issue. What do u want me to know. Ive searched tbe web and found nothing negative about these batteries. I put the build in. Put batteries in. Push the button and I vape. The Hex Ohm has enough safetey features to keep me from blowing myself up. I wud never own a mech mod. But the Hex Ohm is a regulated safe device. It wont fire if somethings not right. The only thing it lacks is a screen. It has a dial.
Are your batteries serial or parallel?
Are they married?
Do you always insert them in the same position?
Do you charge them together?
Do you commingle your mods batteries with your wife’s?
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Dude, trust in Mooch. I pretty much agree with every post here that's NOT yours. Use Mooch's recommended list, and at the bottom of his list you'll also find a list quality vendors.
I use them in pairs. They never get mixed. They r marked set 1, set 2, set 3. They r charged in pairs and go in the mod the way they r intended. My wife has a seperate charger on tbe otber side of the room. Her batteries r marked different then mine. She only uses hers in pairs. They have never once been mismatched.
Samsung 20S 18650 2000mAh 30A Battery - INR18650-20S
Bench Test Results: Samsung 20S 18650...hardest hitting 18650 right now, beats HB6 and VTC6A
Here's a great example of why the mAh rating alone can be fairly useless at times. Given a constant load of 30A, the Samsung 20S (~2000mAh battery) outshines the Sony VTC5A (2500mAh battery) all the way down to 3.2V:
Now, because the VTC5A is only a 25A battery, comparing it at 30A continuous discharge current does not seem fair, but the reality is that, even if we compare it at only 25A continuous instead of at 30A continuous, the actual mAh that they deliver will be roughly the same for both batteries, but the actual energy that a battery delivers is not measured in mAh. Rather, it is measured in Wh (watt-hours). To convert mAh to Wh, we need to multiply the mAh with 1000 and then multiply that with the volts. Seeing as the VTC5A if discharged at 25A continuous still runs at a lower voltage than the Samsung 20S if discharged at also 25A continuous, the Samsung 20S looks to be the better performer at these high (20A-25A) current levels:
Bench Test Results: Samsung 20S 18650...hardest hitting 18650 right now, beats HB6 and VTC6A
Here's a great example of why the mAh rating alone can be fairly useless at times. Given a constant load of 30A, the Samsung 20S (~2000mAh battery) outshines the Sony VTC5A (2500mAh battery) all the way down to 3.2V:
Now, because the VTC5A is only a 25A battery, comparing it at 30A continuous discharge current does not seem fair, but the reality is that, even if we compare it at only 25A continuous instead of at 30A continuous, the actual mAh that they deliver will be roughly the same for both batteries, but the actual energy that a battery delivers is not measured in mAh. Rather, it is measured in Wh (watt-hours). To convert mAh to Wh, we need to multiply the mAh with 1000 and then multiply that with the volts. Seeing as the VTC5A if discharged at 25A continuous still runs at a lower voltage than the Samsung 20S if discharged at also 25A continuous, the Samsung 20S looks to be the better performer at these high (20A-25A) current levels:
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