Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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So after much playing around, the immortalizer still comes out on top...I've tried kayfun 3, the atomic, 2 gennis, fatty v2, a killer in a privé tank, and might be missing one or two...
This is how she will be for a while
Now someone PLEASE share with me the secret to the locking button? I'm getting blisters over here...thanks
L
Blisters because it isn't locking?
Take it completely apart, the knurling ring will come completely off, noalox the threads, if you don't have noalox use vaseline. Put it back together and see if it starts locking. It shouldn't be that difficult.
It doesn't measure correctly when the atomizer is to low, my darwin is also the same way. I can throw a 1.1 ohm coil on it and set it down to 5 watts, it still gives me the same voltage and amperage at 5 watts as it does 8.5.
As low as it will go is 3.2 volts, but will boost up to 12.8 volts.
The Immo ROCKS!
Mine is currently relaxing in the kitchen cabinet waiting on my ELA...
My poor little Immo is all alone...
Agree 100%. These basic uP's are still way under-utilized, you could program them for regulation AND be a clock, stopwatch and egg timer if you wanted to.
psst anavidfan, uP = Micro Processor
...Now someone PLEASE share with me the secret to the locking button? I'm getting blisters over here...thanks
L
Do you mean that you're having a hard time locking/unlocking the bottom? Slide the locking part of the button all the way off. It's held in place by a ball detent. Polish the two opposing surfaces, and the locking mechanism will slide much more easily. I've done that to all of my Precises.
I think I paid $180 for mine, but it was one of the last in a batch he did. But you sparked my curiosity, so I went to his website and he is doing them at a higher price $300, which is still incredible compared to the competition - actually there is no competition for this version of light, totally unique with the C954. Plus, there have been some refinements I see, I may send mine back to get an updated reflector and lens!
Go here http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=elektrolumens&product=EDC-Alumibronze if you're interested.
Sounds like Evolv "engineers" might be working these tweaks out of the garage without the help of Wozniak or Jobs.
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What I mean is that im having a hard time sliding the piece with the P on it out to lock the button...it's a 2 handed operation for me, and I end up scratching my finger on the pointy edges...I'm sure there's a way to so it without blistering 
but I don't have enough mileage yet...can anyone do it one handed while driving?
L
but I don't have enough mileage yet...can anyone do it one handed while driving?L
Well, you can still suck on it, just no vape and your little Immo will know you care
LOL
I have 2 of them.. The brand new one is waiting for the ELA and the other gets used a few times a week...
I love Evolv, and I love my darwin. Just because the device doesn't go under 3.2 volts doesn't discredit the device, it actually encourages you to save your battery life, if you think about it. Just a matter of perspective.
Amps are what eat up battery power. Some do not realize that it isn't the voltage. If you were to use a 2.0 ohm to 3.0 ohm coil, you will actually notice a better battery life compared to anything under 2.0 ohm at the same wattage.
Evolv products are a beast, with the kick being my least favorite. Still even the kick adjust as your atty adjust. Most do not realize that while you are vaping your atty or carto will adjust mid vape, sometimes depending on the age or even how much liquid is being used, your carto or atty will adjust .1 or .2 ohm sometimes even more. Any product by evolv will adjust mid vape while your atomizer or cartomizer adjust. I don't believe that technology like that can be found elsewhere. Most claim to give you the wattage as you adjust at the start of the vape, I could be wrong but none adjust mid vape, except for evolv's products.
If that is garage work. Please tell me where that garage is, I choose that garage ANY day!
What I mean is that im having a hard time sliding the piece with the P on it out to lock the button...it's a 2 handed operation for me, and I end up scratching my finger on the pointy edges...I'm sure there's a way to so it without blistering
L
Ohh ha ha I thought you meant the lock ring, yeah I am having that same problem with my lock button. I had to use the handle part of the screw driver to engage my lock button, I even scratched my button up a little bit trying to get it to lock. I now say screw it and just lay it on its side.
That isn't normal with superT products, cause none of my p+ mods are that tight. I even took it apart and tried to noalox it, that didn't help.
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Dang you and your cool "toys" I have fallen in love with a flashlight. Here I was happy all this time with my giant Maglite billie club.
Reminds me of Crocodile Dundees famous quote : Now, THIS is a flashlight..... I might get myself the matte black one for myself for christmas
Not advisable during driving... i know. try do a cell phone and a P button...What I mean is that im having a hard time sliding the piece with the P on it out to lock the button...it's a 2 handed operation for me, and I end up scratching my finger on the pointy edges...I'm sure there's a way to so it without blistering
L
But these things eventually loosen up; they have given me fits before with my P+'s but it only gets better.
I use my thumb nail which is pretty tough and about 1/4" long.
Play with it... eventually you get a feel for it and some are easier than others for some reason.
I'll also tell you that my reverse thread locking ring mods (Paps 2.5, and Nemesis i.e.) have their glitches. Like the whole bottom button/switch coming off when trying to lock it.
I'd be happy with side GG type bottom button... hint; a la Super T would be killer imo.
My locking mechanism was a bit stiff when new, but has loosened up to where its much easier to lock and unlock. Im going to try polishing up with a Cape Cod and see if it gets buttery smooth.
In fact the other day I broke down my ELA and noticed how dirty it was after a week since its last cleaning. THe locking ring especially, so full of black gunk. I did wash it and then wiped it down with a q-tip and alcohol . Even after soap and water the q-tip came out black.
Im a bit hesitant to take the locking ring apart. The little inner ring is thin and I dont want it to get out of shape. Its a bit tricky getting the inner ring to slide off with out bending it with my stupid hands. Its easy to slip it back in.
The inner tube also gets quite dirty. No problem, I love taking it apart and cleaning it, much easier than my handguns.
The key to the sliding switch lock, especially when new, is to push it directly from the side. No top edge, no downward pressure, just directly from the side. Over time it loosens up a bit too.
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Hey Snorkie, ( i hope that doesnt offend ) On that photo of your button, I think that is the satin? Is the button 2 tone like on the polished ELA? Its hard to tell , looks like it is. I love the 2 tone on the polished and hope its the same on the satin one coming my way.
BTW, Im gong to make a confession. Part of the reason I got the second ELA in satin, is mostly because I love mixing part up. I really thought that once David offers parts Id get the tubes and the top cap assembly and other satin bits, and thought, aw heck after I spent the money on those bit Id almost be spending what it would cost to buy a whole unit. SO it was partly "greed" and partly cost efficiency.
BTW, Im gong to make a confession. Part of the reason I got the second ELA in satin, is mostly because I love mixing part up. I really thought that once David offers parts Id get the tubes and the top cap assembly and other satin bits, and thought, aw heck after I spent the money on those bit Id almost be spending what it would cost to buy a whole unit. SO it was partly "greed" and partly cost efficiency.
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