Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

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anavidfan

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Can a short go undetected by the ohm meter? Its like the kayfun, I built it showed a nice steady .9, washed it, burned it, tested it, same reading. Placed it on and after about 30mins I get the spark on the drip tip. Since then Ive been using it a while, ( guess I could check the posts to see the time) IVe had 2 more sparks, Im too lazy to take it apart , drain and clean and so some checking or drop another coil in there.

But still reads steady .9 , can it still be shorting? or am I just sparking today?

Could it be that I didnt get enough of the legs not tight enough on the terminals? It seems maybe since its not all the time, something might be moving?
 

rojo

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There are a few assumptions and assertions that probably ought to be cleared up before continuing the wild speculations. I apologize if I get any of this wrong. Hopefully someone on an actual PC can check Wikipedia and fact check me where needed. This iPad isn't very conducive to citing sources on a forum.

Firstly, electroplating doesn't rely on heat or melting metal, but on using electricity and a chemical catalyst to deposit metal onto an object. So heat doesn't easily undo electroplating. That is to say, the heat required to melt rhodium is probably higher than a mod can produce.

I think the melting point of rhodium is, what, 1800 degrees F? I think if an atty arcs against the ELA's rhodium-plated 510 pin, the atty's steel or nickel or whatever will show blemishes long before the ELA.

I know David has talked about all this before, but I don't remember where. I hope he sees this conversation and chimes in. We could use an expert.

Anyway, metals are malleable. They bend, rather than crack. So firing an ELA for 45 minutes wouldn't alter the rhodium and make it brittle or micro-fracture.

But even if the connector is pitted all to hell and back, assuming the atty isn't tarnished or coated in juice sludge, there's still going to be more surface area in contact with the atty than the diameter of your res wire, so there shouldn't be any current lost there.

I think whatever pitting and discoloration has been seen is probably the same sort of carbon deposit you see on your stove when your spaghetti boils over. juice gets into the 510 connector, gets in the way of the electrical path, and gets cooked.

But how do you clean that crap off a stove? Since carbon is inert, the only way is to buff it. I just looked at a bottle of Easy-Off range top cleaner. It appears to be a micro-abrasive polish.

But I wouldn't want to make a habit of buffing the rhodium-plated contacts clean. I bet, though, that despite whatever visible imperfections you see, if you attached a 510 volt meter to the ELA and fired it with a fresh charged battery, you'd still see around 4.15 - 4.17v.

I think the only way to resolve this conclusively is with a screw-on volt meter rather than relying on empirical evidence.
 

anavidfan

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I knew that someone would come through and clarify, my uneducated thoughts. Like I said those were just my mind doing out loud thinking.

There is some coating on the contacts, here are some photos I took with my cell phone, just in case before I packed it up.
You can see the the gunk on the top and on the threads. My top contact is the pict at the bottom, thats when I noticed I must have gouged it, since then it has become a dark rusty color like the button contact.

Im glad to hear that a minor short or arc cant damage the rhodium. It only makes sense that in the coil and wick making that is a given it would have to be so much more rugged. I know that with Odysseus there is a lot of condensation and wetness , I know that I have to keep the contacts clean so I keep a lot of qtips handy.

I daily rinse under hot water and finish off with alcohol. I probably gouged the top pin with the Ody. I used to attach the Ody the way I was instructed long ago before I had a device that had an adjustable connection.

I used to screw down the base, then screw down the rebuildable unit till it was snug to the connection. I think I did that a couple times and scratched it on the first few uses. I figured if it became a problem I could always just get another pin. But It worked great for over a month and the rust? grew, still worked great till a couple weeks ago. I noticed some misfires etc.

Im sure David will find out what it is, the top pin, the button, my orings that got swollen or my inner locking ring that I warped.


4k6j.jpg

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anavidfan

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Thank you rojo, Im not worried at all, I dont even need to "hope" Im sure within a few minutes David will look at it and figure out whats wrong with it. My biggest worry is the trip to him and the trip back to me.

I wish I knew more about how electricity works , conductivity etc. I only know grade school level. I had an inline meter , but the panel no longer displays.

I dont even think its the contacts, mostly I want to get the contacts replaced because Im a bit OCD and they just dont look nice like they did, I have a feeling its something to do with the throw or the oring or the inner locking ring not making contact.

I love this thing, and I was not going to say anything, but when I saw take8easy ask, I didnt want him to think that he had a freak problem and show that the only bad thing is being with out ELA once everyones suggestions run out and if he has to send his back.


I REALLY really hope I didnt come off as upset, or worried that I had a problem ELA, I have no worry. Its in the best hands, mine certainly are not the best, but I hope to learn from my mistakes and someday be able to help someone also.

Rojo and all the others that are helping, I luv ya'll.
 

tnt56

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There are a few assumptions and assertions that probably ought to be cleared up before continuing the wild speculations. I apologize if I get any of this wrong. Hopefully someone on an actual PC can check Wikipedia and fact check me where needed. This iPad isn't very conducive to citing sources on a forum.

Firstly, electroplating doesn't rely on heat or melting metal, but on using electricity and a chemical catalyst to deposit metal onto an object. So heat doesn't easily undo electroplating. That is to say, the heat required to melt rhodium is probably higher than a mod can produce.

I think the melting point of rhodium is, what, 1800 degrees F? I think if an atty arcs against the ELA's rhodium-plated 510 pin, the atty's steel or nickel or whatever will show blemishes long before the ELA.

I know David has talked about all this before, but I don't remember where. I hope he sees this conversation and chimes in. We could use an expert.

Anyway, metals are malleable. They bend, rather than crack. So firing an ELA for 45 minutes wouldn't alter the rhodium and make it brittle or micro-fracture.

But even if the connector is pitted all to hell and back, assuming the atty isn't tarnished or coated in juice sludge, there's still going to be more surface area in contact with the atty than the diameter of your res wire, so there shouldn't be any current lost there.

I think whatever pitting and discoloration has been seen is probably the same sort of carbon deposit you see on your stove when your spaghetti boils over. Juice gets into the 510 connector, gets in the way of the electrical path, and gets cooked.

But how do you clean that crap off a stove? Since carbon is inert, the only way is to buff it. I just looked at a bottle of Easy-Off range top cleaner. It appears to be a micro-abrasive polish.

But I wouldn't want to make a habit of buffing the rhodium-plated contacts clean. I bet, though, that despite whatever visible imperfections you see, if you attached a 510 volt meter to the ELA and fired it with a fresh charged battery, you'd still see around 4.15 - 4.17v.

I think the only way to resolve this conclusively is with a screw-on volt meter rather than relying on empirical evidence.

When I need to buff and clean out the gunk, I just use a #2 pencil eraser. Then wipe REALLY GOOD with a Q-tip dipped in 91% alcohol.
Makes it shine like a new dime. And doesn't hurt my babies.
 

Riverboat

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When I need to buff and clean out the gunk, I just use a #2 pencil eraser. Then wipe REALLY GOOD with a Q-tip dipped in 91% alcohol.
Makes it shine like a new dime. And doesn't hurt my babies.

Just so you know I believe David said not to use a pencil eraser on the Rhodium contacts as it is an abrasive material........
 

t8kiteasy

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I finally fixed the miss-fire issue i was having.I had to clean the inside of the locking ring and the tube it grips with Q-tips and nothing else.I noticed today,when changing out batts,the tube had a discolored glare to it,like a very dull shine,dark gray.I grabbed a QT and started to wipe and what came off looked like noalox(it was not actual noalox it just looked like it).I went thru about 30 QT's before i got the parts shiny again,i guess the electrical connection could not keep with that gunk on it??I am happy now knowing that i do not have to send my ELA off to dave for repairs.

When doing the standard cleaning maintenance to the ELA,i did not think about the inside of that ring and the outer tube as a connection,go figure.She's firing as i type this and i have not had a single miss-fire since,pure vaping bliss.
 

Cucco

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I finally fixed the miss-fire issue i was having.I had to clean the inside of the locking ring and the tube it grips with Q-tips and nothing else.I noticed today,when changing out batts,the tube had a discolored glare to it,like a very dull shine,dark gray.I grabbed a QT and started to wipe and what came off looked like noalox(it was not actual noalox it just looked like it).I went thru about 30 QT's before i got the parts shiny again,i guess the electrical connection could not keep with that gunk on it??I am happy now knowing that i do not have to send my ELA off to dave for repairs.

When doing the standard cleaning maintenance to the ELA,i did not think about the inside of that ring and the outer tube as a connection,go figure.She's firing as i type this and i have not had a single miss-fire since,pure vaping bliss.

So very happy for you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

anavidfan

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Im so happy to hear that, makes me think my warped up inner ring might be one of the culprit if not the whole thing. When you think about it, its a very crucial join when it comes to conductivity.

Im just never sure how to remove the inner aluminum ring, at least it feels like aluminum, its softer. Did you have to remove the inner ring or did you just sort of move it around and clean with out removing it. I know it can be done, it just takes so long to clean it that way.

Im very pleased to hear you found the problem.
 

t8kiteasy

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Im so happy to hear that, makes me think my warped up inner ring might be one of the culprit if not the whole thing. When you think about it, its a very crucial join when it comes to conductivity.

Im just never sure how to remove the inner aluminum ring, at least it feels like aluminum, its softer. Did you have to remove the inner ring or did you just sort of move it around and clean with out removing it. I know it can be done, it just takes so long to clean it that way.

Im very pleased to hear you found the problem.

No did not remove it i was afraid it might bend if i tried to.I held it down with a finger and wiped a little section at a time,very tedious for such a small piece.

EDIT: I really never did think about that section as a connection,let alone,one that had to be cleaned.
 

Cucco

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If it makes you feel better, I've never cleaned mine. I've never even had it off the tube. Been enjoying my ELA since late July.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

I have not cleaned mine. I really don't want to take her apart until I get my backups. After all this talk of 'gunk', I just took a peek. I'm not seeing any gunk. What are you guys doing to your poor ELAs? Hanging on the wrong side of town, or what? :)
 

t8kiteasy

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Hey Cucco,
When i said "gunk" i did not mean large pieces of dirt that stand out,lol.It's just the parts of the ELA when you look at it,look's faded in color.Use a Q-tip on that part and you will see what we mean.Remember now,our fingers and hands hold this device to vape on a daily basis,the oils in our hands build up couple that with the lint from putting it in your pocket,purse,etc...When it's all said and done,it looks like gunk when you finish.
 
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