I try to research before I speak as not to look like a fool. This is just what I have gathered through trial and error lol.
Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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I really want David to chime in with an informed response. While I have completed most of my college courses I do not have a degree in electrical engineering or mechanical engineering, which I assume David carries (if not you rule because you amaze me every single time with your work sir). Can anyone confirm or deny my hypothesis please?
I just got two HD spring this weeks, one for my ELA and the other for my P+ and I have to say, I like them a lot. I like the smoothness they have and the heavy duty they have that the ELA has every where else.
Hey guys,
This is for people who haven't handled the ELA personally:
For those who consider size important, it's much smaller than you might think. In abstract terms (look up the square-cube law), an increase in diameter implies a larger increase in volume. In practice, however, 1-2 mm doesn't make much of a difference in the hand. It's not as large as it seems. In its 18350 or 18490 modes, it's positively tiny. And that is a huge plus.
Also, it is heavier than the uninitiated might think (square-cube, perhaps), considering the weight of the battery (a potential Kick 2). It feels sturdy and solid in my hand, even in the 18650 + Kick 2 configuration. It feels like it can handle a couple of hundred drops. This is also a huge plus in my book.
Finally, it's versatile. I can't stress this enough. It's not even a quarter of a turn of the locking mechanism to get the battery/Kick out of the housing. Maybe an eighth and you'll be able to switch configurations. In addition, the center post is easy to adjust with your hands. You won't be using your nails or a wide screwdriver. It's much more solid than a floating post. It feels (and most likely is) more reliable than any over post I've tried. It will handle any (reasonable) single battery setup you throw at it. It's also proven exceptionally easy to Kick. I just keep the Kick in the extension tube to keep everything simple and easy. Time to stop thinking of "pluses" and move on to exponents.
In closing, this is a dense mod. The locking mechanism is solid and makes sense. The button (especially with the heavy duty spring) is satisfying. The mod looks awesome (24mm diameter). Compact, heavy, and versatile, it is a great "bug-out-mod". Factor in the rhodium tri-plating, ease-of-use, and innovation, it's ideal.
I don't know about you, but I can't think of any way to improve the ELA with exception of possible add-ons (An Evolv dna module? An equally solid atomizer? All which are apparently coming soon...). If anyone has any ideas, I'm sure David will consider them.
Cheers to the ELA!
This is for people who haven't handled the ELA personally:
For those who consider size important, it's much smaller than you might think. In abstract terms (look up the square-cube law), an increase in diameter implies a larger increase in volume. In practice, however, 1-2 mm doesn't make much of a difference in the hand. It's not as large as it seems. In its 18350 or 18490 modes, it's positively tiny. And that is a huge plus.
Also, it is heavier than the uninitiated might think (square-cube, perhaps), considering the weight of the battery (a potential Kick 2). It feels sturdy and solid in my hand, even in the 18650 + Kick 2 configuration. It feels like it can handle a couple of hundred drops. This is also a huge plus in my book.
Finally, it's versatile. I can't stress this enough. It's not even a quarter of a turn of the locking mechanism to get the battery/Kick out of the housing. Maybe an eighth and you'll be able to switch configurations. In addition, the center post is easy to adjust with your hands. You won't be using your nails or a wide screwdriver. It's much more solid than a floating post. It feels (and most likely is) more reliable than any over post I've tried. It will handle any (reasonable) single battery setup you throw at it. It's also proven exceptionally easy to Kick. I just keep the Kick in the extension tube to keep everything simple and easy. Time to stop thinking of "pluses" and move on to exponents.
In closing, this is a dense mod. The locking mechanism is solid and makes sense. The button (especially with the heavy duty spring) is satisfying. The mod looks awesome (24mm diameter). Compact, heavy, and versatile, it is a great "bug-out-mod". Factor in the rhodium tri-plating, ease-of-use, and innovation, it's ideal.
I don't know about you, but I can't think of any way to improve the ELA with exception of possible add-ons (An Evolv dna module? An equally solid atomizer? All which are apparently coming soon...). If anyone has any ideas, I'm sure David will consider them.
Cheers to the ELA!
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The HD spring ok but I prefer the light touch of the original spring...........
To David and the entire Super-t team, I just wanted to say after having the ELA for a few days it's the best and solid MOD I have had period
the machining is flawless every time I unscrew anything on it I say to myself this is incredible workmanship and is the first MOD that I have not used any Noalox on it no need to. I have used so far Kaifun, Tayfun GT, and a simple Igo-l dripper all single coils and can't even imagine what this thing can do on dual coils, I keep thinking on the Strata with David ingenuity it's going to take the ELA in to a all new level I feel sorry for all the people that would not deal with the wait time, I would wait another 6 months for another in conclusion I have to say this is the product that is a game changer in the Vaping community by far Thanks again David, Regards Nick.
the machining is flawless every time I unscrew anything on it I say to myself this is incredible workmanship and is the first MOD that I have not used any Noalox on it no need to. I have used so far Kaifun, Tayfun GT, and a simple Igo-l dripper all single coils and can't even imagine what this thing can do on dual coils, I keep thinking on the Strata with David ingenuity it's going to take the ELA in to a all new level I feel sorry for all the people that would not deal with the wait time, I would wait another 6 months for another in conclusion I have to say this is the product that is a game changer in the Vaping community by far Thanks again David, Regards Nick.
I'm no electrical engineer, but I think the spring might have something to do with these issues also. I have been having problems with hot buttons and bad performance on my dual coil setups also. I have washed/cleaned every part of the mod up and down about 4 times now, and while the button issue comes and goes, the performance issue has remained.
My latest cleaning was yesterday, and I screwed an in-line meter onto the mod with a fresh battery and then a .35ohm dual coil topper. Under load, I saw 3.60 at first. I was so happy because thats about where I get on my other mechs with a similar .3-.4ohm topper. However, every time I fired the mod after I got a reading ranging from 2.94-3.2v
I experimented with turning the button in between fires, and actually found that my readings under load changed depending on how the button was turned. Now I know voltage drop is a hot issue, and a lot of people disagree on how to properly test it and even if the readings we see translate to what is actually going on. All I have to go off of is comparing my readings to my other mods while trying to get as close to an identical test as I can. If I was reading relatively close to a voltage drop of my other mods, there would be no issue...but getting a fluctuating reading of 2.9-3.2v off of a fresh 4.2v battery leads me to believe something is wrong and I am almost out of ideas.
I still really love the mod and the engineering that went into it. Even though the wait was long, hanging out here in the forum with all of you has been a pleasure. However, I know that something is not right with my mod, and I have not been able to increase the performance myself for some reason. Maybe trying the HD spring could be the answer? I'm not sure, I would love a more informed response about this also
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All of the above is way above my pay grade.
I do know that I would not be able to vape at .35 ohms. I was doing .5 ohms, and the button was just too hot. I was considering trying it again when winter sets in here in Florida. I am running at .8 ohms. I would love to know if the HD spring is the answer to the hot button.P.S.: Does anyone have an in-line meter they would recommend?
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Can you try removing the spring from your switch and running the same tests to see what the output voltage is without a spring? Mine does heat up also, not sure if it's caused by shorts in the coil that appear from time to time, or because its a current limiting spring?
Someone, in our Super-T family, did something incredibly kind for me today. Me, a stranger at the other end of the keyboard.
There are lots of good people out there, doing lots of good things. Sometimes, when we need it the most, we cross paths with one of those people. At that moment, the world suddenly becomes a brighter, kinder, and happier place.
To that good person, I say, 'Thank you so very much!'.
BTW: Have I mentioned lately, how much I love my ELA?
There are lots of good people out there, doing lots of good things. Sometimes, when we need it the most, we cross paths with one of those people. At that moment, the world suddenly becomes a brighter, kinder, and happier place.
To that good person, I say, 'Thank you so very much!'.
BTW: Have I mentioned lately, how much I love my ELA?
All of the above is way above my pay grade.
P.S.: Does anyone have an in-line meter they would recommend?
I got my inline volt meter from RTD Vape.
The spring does aid in the grounding, but most if it goes through friction with the button and bottom cap. The HD spring is only a few thousandths bigger in diameter, so it shouldn't make a significant diffence. One area many people miss when cleaning, is the inside of the bottom cap where the button passes through, this is where the electricity flows, from the inside of the bottom cap to the button. Wrap a bit of fine sand paper (400+ grit) around a sharpie and spin it inside the bottom Cap. Usually if your button is getting so hot you can't touch it though, it's a short, though increased resistance from being dirty can build up heat. If its just getting warm, that's one thing, if its getting so hot you can't touch it, you have short.
I forgot to mention in my above post, visualize the current returning from the atomizer and what junctions it has to cross to return to the bottom of the battery. Another critical junction is the compression ring to extension tube junction. If you remove the compression ring and look inside, you'll see an aluminum band in there, hit that with a bit of fine sandpaper or steel wool too. I've been meaning to put some of those up on the site too as spare parts since there only a few bucks and easy to switch out. If you overtighten the compression ring, the aluminum band inside can deform and loose some of its clamping ability.
Just got my ELA today – doing the happy dance! However, having a problem with the locking button (the tab on the button that slides to lock). It just won’t move unless extreme force is used. Is that normal?
I did my best to go through the past posts to see if there was an answer, but didn’t see it. Any insight someone could share would be appreciated!
I did my best to go through the past posts to see if there was an answer, but didn’t see it. Any insight someone could share would be appreciated!
Thanks for the tip, but it's still very stubborn. Got major dents on my fingertips from this! If I take the button out from the housing I can work the locking post back and forth, but it takes major effort. When it is assembled, moving the locking post is nearly impossible.
It was very stiff for me too when I first got it. It will loosen up and slide like butter even one handed .
Some use a little lubrication and a few pages back(actually quite a few back) where I think a video or someone said you can take a fine sandpaper and just give it a few wipes back and forth.
I hope someone pops in with the good fix. I will get loser.
I just cant remember where to file it. I dont want you to willy nilly start filing your button.
BTW, congratulations on your arrival, I hope you feel free to join in and ask for any tips you need. Its a wonderful device.
Some use a little lubrication and a few pages back(actually quite a few back) where I think a video or someone said you can take a fine sandpaper and just give it a few wipes back and forth.
I hope someone pops in with the good fix. I will get loser.
I just cant remember where to file it. I dont want you to willy nilly start filing your button.
BTW, congratulations on your arrival, I hope you feel free to join in and ask for any tips you need. Its a wonderful device.
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If you look closely at the locking mechanism, you'll find that it slides directly along the "finger groove" of the button housing. To lock the button easily, make sure that the button is aligned well. I hope this helps.
Anavidfan(Pris): So happy to see a post! For those who don't know, Pris has been feeling a bit 'under the weather' lately. I hope, this is a sign you are 'on the mend'! Sending good thoughts and hugs your way! Welcome back! We missed you!
I totally need to try that! Most of the time I just shoot from the hip (or talk out of my ... as my wife says) but seriously, I'm right about 17% or 18% of the time which I think is pretty good! Even when I'm wrong, about 52% of the time I'm either convincing enough or loud enough that people think I'm right but still....imagine being right or knowing what I am talking about more often! Now that would be something!
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