Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

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tnt56

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I know I tend to "nag" sometimes but really, I think there is a big and important NEED for some more detailed "breakdown, how to videos" for the locking ring, bottom contact/button, complete o-ring replacement , especially the set on the top post.

I know for some it very self explanatory, but there is a lot of room for messing things up. It would help us that are paranoid, and save Dave time on having to get them back because of "user error" incidents.:) ( guilty as charged)
This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Come on David help us out. Pretty Please
 

Ryd1ZZ

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I know I tend to "nag" sometimes but really, I think there is a big and important NEED for some more detailed "breakdown, how to videos" for the locking ring, bottom contact/button, complete o-ring replacement , especially the set on the top post.

I know for some it very self explanatory, but there is a lot of room for messing things up. It would help us that are paranoid, and save Dave time on having to get them back because of "user error" incidents.:) ( guilty as charged)

Some detailed info on servicing the locking ring would be cool. Is the positive contact even user serviceable? It looks like you only have 2/3 parts, the top cap (either 1 or 2 parts), and the contact assembly. If it can be taken apart, I'd love a video of that as well.
 

Magic Dragon Puff

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Maybe a 1 page cheat-cheat like I did with the KFL, only for the ELA on how it comes apart? ...

KF Lite.jpg
 

Killjoy1

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If you put the battery in upside down is that bad? I did and got shocked. Now I'm kinda freaking out.

Theoretically, there is no difference in operation for either direction, I always ran my Screwdriver with batteries positive-down (but that was because the button top on the battery gave me a slightly shorter throw on the switch, which I liked). The danger of course is that if there is a tear in the battery wrapper (typically, the whole outside of the battery is -, not just the bottom contact) it shorts to the tube and pressing the button completes the circuit through the mod without including the atty in the circuit. I'd check your battery for tears in the wrapper, can't think of anything else that would give you a shock
 

Idaholandho

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On that note, what if one dropped a brand new battery and the skin of the battery got a tiny nick. Im real low on batteries at the moment and hate to dump it. Is there anything safe that one could cover the nick with? or is it a lost cause.

This is a "what if " :oops:
P!
Meter the battery before and after charges so to see if there is cell damage. Electrical tape. Kind of hokey but, It will work temp :)
 

tnt56

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I know its been asked a hundred times, but without spending over a hundred, what is a good basic mulitmeter for measuring batteries. I have one, but its a non digital and the settings dont have 3.7V. Got one a while back, but it was really jumpy and drove me nuts.
Only one answer from me. FLUKE DMM. I used em in a industrial setting and saw things that they did I couldn't believe. It's the only one I really trust. (Fluke 73 III) Been used at over 12500 volts AC so yea I trust it. A lot.
 

Wiz62

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Only one answer from me. FLUKE DMM. I used em in a industrial setting and saw things that they did I couldn't believe. It's the only one I really trust. (Fluke 73 III) Been used at over 12500 volts AC so yea I trust it. A lot.

pay for it once, have it for the rest of your life ;)
 

MikeJA

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I know its been asked a hundred times, but without spending over a hundred, what is a good basic mulitmeter for measuring batteries. I have one, but its a non digital and the settings dont have 3.7V. Got one a while back, but it was really jumpy and drove me nuts.

I bought this one from OSH (is that a southern california thing?). Runs off of a 9v. Checks voltage and ohms in selected ranges. It's been working great for months. I think it was about $30.


 

LouEyez

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