I would love the opportunity to buy the center post/w parts for all my new solid tops. Then, I could just leave the old caps 'as is'. I would not care about cost.
Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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I would love the opportunity to buy the center post/w parts for all my new solid tops. Then, I could just leave the old caps 'as is'. I would not care about cost.
The guy wanted to trade an unused illuminati for 2...that's right 2 ELAs AND (because there's an and) 500 in cash...meaning, he thinks that there's someone out there (and said person would really have to be out there) that would consider parting with BOTH their ELAs, and add another 500$ on top of that to get his illuminati...I was laughing for a while, but had to reread the post a few times to make sure I was understanding it correctly..hahahaha
I am hoping that David can get a top center post batch machined/rhodium plated............I would order the new caps and wait on the order if that was the case...I do have an ELA that should be coming in the next batch....I assume that it will have the correct center post? David I will wait for you to chime in before I place my order for 2 ELA solid top caps.......
Don't let me miss out though---I don't want to snooze and lose
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I am hoping that David can get a top center post batch machined/rhodium plated............I would order the new caps and wait on the order if that was the case...I do have an ELA that should be coming in the next batch....I assume that it will have the correct center post? David I will wait for you to chime in before I place my order for 2 ELA solid top caps.......
Order your caps. Sort it out later.
That should be 2 illuminati's and 500$ for the ELA!I had a illluminati(used it for 1 tankfull) and sold it for cost to someone that wanted a Ihybrid for his wife.When the maker gave up on ECF(where he got his start)for fakebook,I gave up on Ihybrids.
That would be great if we could buy a spare center post instead of sending the whole top cap+center post back. It would mean more than 2-3 weeks without my precious as I live in Europe and I'm not lucky enough to have 2 ELAs. Right now, I'd rather live without the solid cap than without my ELA
Just goes to show what the ELA is thought of, getting up there with worth its' weight in gold
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So today I have been doing some multimetering... and no this isn't a voltage drop post...
I discovered (for myself if no one else) that the ELA ABSORBS electricity somehow! I don't know if it is being stuck in a loop or some other witch craft... but there you go...
What started off as me just seeing how the voltage looks without a load on it became a very head scratching experience...
I was using my ELA for a change today after putting a second washer under the switch with the flat cap to see what its like and got a wild hair up my .... and decided to meter the ELA without a load.. 4.12 (got the same reading on my Cronus so that's a plus) When I first attached the leads without pushing the fire button (but I had been using it previously) I got a reading of 0.12 volts... odd I thought.. So i put the leads of my meter together.. nothing.. 0.00.. very odd I thought... put them back on the unfired ELA... 0.10 volts... Extremely odd I thought...
Took out my other ELA thinking it was an error with the flat cap... 0.00 volts unfired... normal.. put in a battery and tested again without pushing the button... 0.00 volts unfired... normal... Fired the second ELA... 4.12 volts... normal... stopped firing and put the leads back on cold... 0.12 volts... ...? ODD I thought... So i repeated this process with my Cronus (legit non clone cronus just FYI) and got 0.00 even after firing the cronus...
Any electrical majors in here that could explain this? It appears that the ELA traps a small amount of electricity somehow within the body that starts at around 0.14 volts and drops to 0.05 for a while before dissipating... WITCHCRAFT!
I discovered (for myself if no one else) that the ELA ABSORBS electricity somehow! I don't know if it is being stuck in a loop or some other witch craft... but there you go...
What started off as me just seeing how the voltage looks without a load on it became a very head scratching experience...
I was using my ELA for a change today after putting a second washer under the switch with the flat cap to see what its like and got a wild hair up my .... and decided to meter the ELA without a load.. 4.12 (got the same reading on my Cronus so that's a plus) When I first attached the leads without pushing the fire button (but I had been using it previously) I got a reading of 0.12 volts... odd I thought.. So i put the leads of my meter together.. nothing.. 0.00.. very odd I thought... put them back on the unfired ELA... 0.10 volts... Extremely odd I thought...
Took out my other ELA thinking it was an error with the flat cap... 0.00 volts unfired... normal.. put in a battery and tested again without pushing the button... 0.00 volts unfired... normal... Fired the second ELA... 4.12 volts... normal... stopped firing and put the leads back on cold... 0.12 volts... ...? ODD I thought... So i repeated this process with my Cronus (legit non clone cronus just FYI) and got 0.00 even after firing the cronus...
Any electrical majors in here that could explain this? It appears that the ELA traps a small amount of electricity somehow within the body that starts at around 0.14 volts and drops to 0.05 for a while before dissipating... WITCHCRAFT!
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Ill see what I can do!
Edit... I'm going to have to figure out how I can do this without growing a third arm. xD
Edit... I'm going to have to figure out how I can do this without growing a third arm. xD
The problem is I dont' have any rhodium plated center posts to spare. I have the stainless steel adjustable holder for the center post(which appears to be the culprit, I'm guessing on these older ela's, the thread major diameter was a bit bigger on them), but I would need your old post to press out and press in.
For those who ordered the caps for their newer ELA(this seems confined to the earlier first batch ELA's) you shouldn't experience a problem. I'm not sure of the exact cut off time though, but it's pretty easy to figure out , if it screws in, you are good
Okay! This video shows pretty much what I'm talking about.. I tried to keep it short so I wouldn't take all day to upload it so I'm not really following the scientific method here as there will be no control group example... but hopefully you can take my word for it when I say other mods don't do what I am showing in the video..
(HD might pop up later if that is important to you)
(HD might pop up later if that is important to you)
Sounds like some capacitance going on that gets stored after the circuit is completed. I bet if there was a ground wire hooked up to the ELA you wouldn't see it. Could be a lot of factors, dirty contacts, air humidity, air temperature, mixture of different metals, metal oxidation.
You can build a rudimentary basic electrolytic capacitor with some tinfoil and paper as an example. I bet if you took it apart and gave the mod a good bath you would see this go away.
Have you tried different batteries? if you test for continuity what does it show? Maybe there is some galvanic activity between the aluminum compression band and the stainless steel.
I can actually take it apart, take the battery out, put it back together and the charge is still there.. I'm not concerned by this... I just thought it was interesting. Can anyone else do this little experiment? I also considered that it could be the mixture of the aluminum band and the stainless housing. I just thought it was neat.
Just tried this myself...why not! I go the same result as you with a bit higher residual voltage before it dropped off at around .6 volts....Must be some capacitance going on somewhere. I'll give it a bath and see what happens.....
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