Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

[forcedfuel50]

Wish my experience had been a better one.

I hope you will allow me to make it right. I apologize, I did find your email from Monday which I hadn't answered yet, but rest assured I wasn't not going to answer it and i'll answer it right here for you:


"Me and xxxxx from ecf/nuvapor have been trying to fix out hot button issue on the ELA..... any ideas?
Basically if I run any atty, any battery lower than 0.6ish ohms I get a jolt of heat from the button. Like hot kinda heat! Gota says he's even seen arcing inside his flat bottom casing. I've cleaned everything I can clean. I've checked all the orings. Tried noalox on the contacts. There's no shorts in my builds. My dna30 wouldn't fire if there was a short. I've even tried a super simple low ohm single micro in the brass monkee, zenith v2 and atomic. Happens on all of them. Nothing wrong with my batteries. Using 1600mah aw's and 1500mah mnke'sAssuming no shorts in the atomizer, the hot button issue usually appears in subohm coils approaching .the .5 range."

The hot button issue usually arises in sub ohm coils approaching .5 ohms (as you are experiencing). The reason this happens is the lower the ohm, the higher the amperage draw and the more heat that is generated. Effecting this can be corroded parts, which increase the resistance (increased resistance=increased heat).

It sounds like you've cleaned the right parts but to summarize if you haven't: hit the aluminum compression band inside the lock ring with some 400 grit to roughen it up and spin the button in some fine steel wool (this will remove most of the black that's built up on your button) and spin a sharpie wrapped with some 400 grit in the bottom cap where the button passes through.

Mechanical mods complete the circuit through two paths: First, from friction between the button and cap and second, through the spring. Now that you have your parts cleaned and your builds are in the .5 or lower range, the next way to increase the amperage carrying capacity is through an HD spring which is .025 vs .022 for the stock (which you may already have on it, some do), if so, I'd recommend intertwining two stock or one hd and one stock spring and that will significantly increase your amperage carrying ability and keep that button from heating up.

You also mentioned in your post above you had problems with the button lock? What issues did you have that I may be able to help you with?

David

 

[vdefazzio]

David. Any idea if/when you might have some SS accent rings available? My top accent ring bounced into a storm drain and i have no way of retrieving it. My poor ELA is just so pitiful in 18650 mode(only way I go) that I can't take it out in public. I'm sick over this.

 

[anavidfan]

I just want to add my hot button experience. I was intermittently getting hot buttons. It happened when I KNOW I did NOT have a short. I would attach the same atty on my SImplicity and no problems and on my Saber and my Natural. I could never figure out why. I dont ever make coils lower than 1.0 IT seemed to me it would happen when I had a severe drop in the voltage and when I had problems with my locking ring. Im not an electrical engineer, so logic tells me that since my compression/locking ring were not making good contact , all the current was being directed at the bottom since it had a "break" in the electrical direction?

NOw Im getting a real good current to my atomizer , where its supposed to go and no warm/hot button. If there is a "blockage" or misdirection of electricity its going to concentrate where it has the least resistance. I was getting buzzing on my button, I would hear it vibrate/buzz. I did not have arcing marks like in some photos, but I have a feeling since my ohms are at 1.0 - 1.2 it was not severe.

SO far so good, no buzzing, good hits. I am getting some minor slipping as Im paranoid about using too much force on my locking ring/ compression bands. Whats perplexing is that it happens to some and not to others. Some of those that dont have a conductivity problem/ slipping./ buzzing/ arcing do use very low resistances. All I can think of is there is some minor flaw somewhere in the button/ bottom area to cause this or that the locking ring/ band looses good contact and the electricity gets "stuck" concentrating at the bottom.

Like I said, Im not an electrical engineer so Im just using logic from reading and watching electrical DIY shows and videos.

 

[jkim5708]

Yes! Shipping notification and I know it's my ELA. Because I have no more open orders with super t. Say whaaaaaat! Between this and my soon to be 26650 mod (not simplicity..late on the trigger). I will be a happy camper! Now to look for a nice copper atty ;-)


Sent from iPhone Evolved

 

[DantesInferno]

I hope you will allow me to make it right. I apologize, I did find your email from Monday which I hadn't answered yet, but rest assured I wasn't not going to answer it and i'll answer it right here for you:


"Me and xxxxx from ecf/nuvapor have been trying to fix out hot button issue on the ELA..... any ideas?
Basically if I run any atty, any battery lower than 0.6ish ohms I get a jolt of heat from the button. Like hot kinda heat! Gota says he's even seen arcing inside his flat bottom casing. I've cleaned everything I can clean. I've checked all the orings. Tried noalox on the contacts. There's no shorts in my builds. My dna30 wouldn't fire if there was a short. I've even tried a super simple low ohm single micro in the brass monkee, zenith v2 and atomic. Happens on all of them. Nothing wrong with my batteries. Using 1600mah aw's and 1500mah mnke'sAssuming no shorts in the atomizer, the hot button issue usually appears in subohm coils approaching .the .5 range."

The hot button issue usually arises in sub ohm coils approaching .5 ohms (as you are experiencing). The reason this happens is the lower the ohm, the higher the amperage draw and the more heat that is generated. Effecting this can be corroded parts, which increase the resistance (increased resistance=increased heat).

It sounds like you've cleaned the right parts but to summarize if you haven't: hit the aluminum compression band inside the lock ring with some 400 grit to roughen it up and spin the button in some fine steel wool (this will remove most of the black that's built up on your button) and spin a sharpie wrapped with some 400 grit in the bottom cap where the button passes through.

Mechanical mods complete the circuit through two paths: First, from friction between the button and cap and second, through the spring. Now that you have your parts cleaned and your builds are in the .5 or lower range, the next way to increase the amperage carrying capacity is through an HD spring which is .025 vs .022 for the stock (which you may already have on it, some do), if so, I'd recommend intertwining two stock or one hd and one stock spring and that will significantly increase your amperage carrying ability and keep that button from heating up.

You also mentioned in your post above you had problems with the button lock? What issues did you have that I may be able to help you with?

David

Thanks for the response. Yeah I cleaned and sanded everything that had been mentioned. And swapped to a nemesis spring which was heavier. Also tried interlacing the nem spring with the stock ela spring. It would still happen. For some reason yesterday it quit and hasn't returned. I've even went to the stock spring on its own and it's still working fine. No clue why. Using the same attys, coils, batterys etc.

The locking mechanism was just way too finicky and tight from the start. I followed your video and took it apart and cleaned it and buffed it down which did significantly help.

 

[HauntedMyst]

I had a hot button with my new satin. I had just rebuilt my Kayfun and ended up getting it hot enough to melt the insulators. Switched over to the Taifun, no more hot button. It is frustrating though when its a new mod or atty and you can't figure out what's wrong with your set up.

 

[anavidfan]

Sorry you melted your insulators, at least you know its the atty. Did try it on any other devices ? I was going nuts , rebuilding and rebuilding thinking it was my atties, then that DOH feeling when I decided to try it on my Simplicity and no problems.

 

[Cucco]

I had a hot button with my new satin. I had just rebuilt my Kayfun and ended up getting it hot enough to melt the insulators. Switched over to the Taifun, no more hot button. It is frustrating though when its a new mod or atty and you can't figure out what's wrong with your set up.

Did you meter the Kayfun before mounting on your ELA?

 

[HauntedMyst]

The Kayfun didn't work on my other ELA either and the everything else I had worked on the ELA. I don't have a meter. Don't really plan on buying one.

 

[poconojo]

I can't wait to get my flat bottom cap for my ELA. Now all I need to get is the brass accent rings and maybe the brass button. I usually like the stainless look, but seeing the pictures of the ELA with brass accents looks totally cool.

 

[gotalotgoingon]

Thanks for the response. Yeah I cleaned and sanded everything that had been mentioned. And swapped to a nemesis spring which was heavier. Also tried interlacing the nem spring with the stock ela spring. It would still happen. For some reason yesterday it quit and hasn't returned. I've even went to the stock spring on its own and it's still working fine. No clue why. Using the same attys, coils, batterys etc.

The locking mechanism was just way too finicky and tight from the start. I followed your video and took it apart and cleaned it and buffed it down which did significantly help.

I still have the hot button issue even after sanding and cleaning. I haven't tried a heavier spring yet as I don't have one and I haven't had time to make it to the hardware store and seen Super-T were out of them. I tried going back to the tapered housing and got the same thing. I have noticed that it depends on how I push the button on how fast it actually heats up if that makes any sense. Also, my strata doesn't thread down all the way in the ELA. It stops with a thread or two left. I tried noalox and got an extra thread or so as before it was worse then that. Don't have a pic I can post right now as I am at work. Really want to these issues worked out cuz I like both the ELA and Strata. I believe the Strata has the best flavor out of any tank, dripper, etc that I have tried.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[forcedfuel50]

I still have the hot button issue even after sanding and cleaning. I haven't tried a heavier spring yet as I don't have one and I haven't had time to make it to the hardware store and seen Super-T were out of them. I tried going back to the tapered housing and got the same thing. I have noticed that it depends on how I push the button on how fast it actually heats up if that makes any sense. Also, my strata doesn't thread down all the way in the ELA. It stops with a thread or two left. I tried noalox and got an extra thread or so as before it was worse then that. Don't have a pic I can post right now as I am at work. Really want to these issues worked out cuz I like both the ELA and Strata. I believe the Strata has the best flavor out of any tank, dripper, etc that I have tried.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shoot me an email with your name and address to supertmanufacturing@yahoo.com and we'll get your strata/extension tube problem taken care (make a note of your problem in the email). See post below for a possible remedy to your hot button.

 

[forcedfuel50]

I had a hot button with my new satin. I had just rebuilt my Kayfun and ended up getting it hot enough to melt the insulators. Switched over to the Taifun, no more hot button. It is frustrating though when its a new mod or atty and you can't figure out what's wrong with your set up.

Thanks for the response. Yeah I cleaned and sanded everything that had been mentioned. And swapped to a nemesis spring which was heavier. Also tried interlacing the nem spring with the stock ela spring. It would still happen. For some reason yesterday it quit and hasn't returned. I've even went to the stock spring on its own and it's still working fine. No clue why. Using the same attys, coils, batterys etc.

The locking mechanism was just way too finicky and tight from the start. I followed your video and took it apart and cleaned it and buffed it down which did significantly help.

Reading these two descriptions of the problem above lead me to believe the problem may be in the ELA adjustable center post to RBA/Rda center post contact. On some RBA/RBA/Atomizers, the center post may be recessed or screwed in too far (or may be supported by a oring, thus allowing too much give) which is allowing the outer portion of the adjustable center post to possibly touch the rba/rda center post and cause a short.

If your RBA/RDA has an adjustable center post, make sure it is screwed out to flush our slightly protruding. Next, completely back off your ELA center post, screw on the RBA/RDA until it is tight on the top cap, then screw the ELA adjustable post up to contact the rba/rda center post. Be careful not to overtighten, especially if your rba/rda/atomizer has a oring supported center post, as those have too much give and can be pushed in far enough to cause a short.

I'll post up a picture shortly to help visualize a bit better.

Also, one last area to check as we did have a customer have one come loose, check to make sure the center post is rigid and not moving inside the adjustable post holder. It is pressed in and should protrude slightly out each end of the post holder.

 

[DantesInferno]

That part looks fine. I'll watch my atty connections but don't think that's the problem. Would seem strange that it was happening on all of them. The strata, brass monkee, v2 zenith, atomics, origen. They all did it. I'm happy as a lark now. Hasn't happened in a few days and I've pushed it down into the 0.25 ohm range and still the button was as cool as a cucumber. No clue. Like I had mentioned I haven't changed anything. Lol. Possibly just my obsessive handling has inadvertently added some insulation somewhere?
Thanks for the continued insight David. Much appreciated.

 

[forcedfuel50]

That part looks fine. I'll watch my atty connections but don't think that's the problem. Would seem strange that it was happening on all of them. The strata, brass monkee, v2 zenith, atomics, origen. They all did it. I'm happy as a lark now. Hasn't happened in a few days and I've pushed it down into the 0.25 ohm range and still the button was as cool as a cucumber. No clue. Like I had mentioned I haven't changed anything. Lol. Possibly just my obsessive handling has inadvertently added some insulation somewhere?
Thanks for the continued insight David. Much appreciated.

Well I'll be damned if that isn't the weirdest thing. I have no explanation why it suddenly is working for you. I once had a mod that had a small sliver of metal bridging the gap between the center post and the cap causing a short. Maybe something like that.

Another thing for customers to check is to make sure the screw in post on the button is tightened with a screwdriver as I've received in units that it was loose or finger tight on. A loose contact screw is akin to a loose battery cable.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Deep thoughts by Jack Handy: Wheres Boog liking a post when someone has a success, not just failures?! Boog?

 

[vaptamist]

Must be so busy flipping mods he doesn't have time to click the like button.

I wouldn't worry too much about what such a clearly quality individual's likes or dislikes too much.

 

[Cucco]

The Kayfun didn't work on my other ELA either and the everything else I had worked on the ELA. I don't have a meter. Don't really plan on buying one.

Just curious... Why would you not want a meter?

 

[BigSteve940]

I would give anything to have an ELA with a hot button, because it would also mean i have and ELA

 

[poconojo]

Just curious... Why would you not want a meter?

I am curious also?