Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

[icucme2]

I read David saying once the 1600mah gets to 3.5v its time to swap batteries. Now i come from a provari which lets me check battery life. With this ELA (& other mechs) how do i know when ive reached 3.5v, to swap out?? Is the change of performance that noticable?

 

[vaptamist]

I read David saying once the 1600mah gets to 3.5v its time to swap batteries. Now i come from a provari which lets me check battery life. With this ELA (& other mechs) how do i know when ive reached 3.5v, to swap out?? Is the change of performance that noticable?

Oh yeah, definitely - if you have a provari, take your favorite atty and set the voltage to 3.9 volts, and take a few vapes. Then knock it down to 3.4 or 3.5 volts. I guarantee you'll notice a difference. The trick to IMR batteries is to swap them out when they aren't "getting the job done" - don't keep juicing it. Over-discharging a battery is not something you want to do.

 

[Blix]

Is the change of performance that noticable?

Yes it's quite noticable, no chance of anyone draining their batteries too much.

 

[jasl90]

I read David saying once the 1600mah gets to 3.5v its time to swap batteries. Now i come from a provari which lets me check battery life. With this ELA (& other mechs) how do i know when ive reached 3.5v, to swap out?? Is the change of performance that noticable?

The battery can actually be discharged down to 2.75 volts without damaging it. 3.5 volts is usually where the vape quality has diminished to the point that most people would find it unacceptable.
Odds are, you'll be ready for a fresh battery well before you discharge it to the point of damage.

 

[vaptamist]

Yes it's quite noticable, no chance of anyone draining their batteries too much.

Jinx! Du skylder meg en cola!

 

[icucme2]

Thanks for all the help guys.. I guess theres no such thing of havin too many batteries..

 

[vaptamist]

I think 3 18650's is a good number to have for a single PV. When you leave the house you can take your current battery in your PV, take a spare if you are going to be gone awhile, or the current battery isn't fully charged. Then when you get back to the house and you've run down both batteries, you have a fresh one waiting for you while you charge the other two back up.

Obviously if you have multiple 18650 PV's you'll need more.

 

[icucme2]

Nice, i think im going to start w 2 18650, and 2 18350

 

[icucme2]

Nah, ur right, 3 18650's lol

 

[Blix]

I dislike 18650's because of the size, but still use them quite a bit.

For really low resistancce setups, the Panasonic NCR18650PD is pretty much the best battery you can buy, also the CGR18650CH is really good. These are safe chemistry batteries of course.

I buy mine here, comes in a handy box.

But I really like 18490 AW IMR's.

 

[Draconian]

I'm in the 2nd batch.
Like to thank the ELA for absolutely RUINING LOTR for me....
I understand Gollum and obsession now.

MY PRECIOUS!!!!!

 

[ukeman]

Here's a link to Davids tests of the Pana CGR18650CH 2250mah... vs AW IMR 1600... at 1. 2.5 amp and 2. at 5 amp.
Each time, same story...
more mah more time, but less output, less bang, and during lower voltage end of usage.
David makes the distinction that for mechanical and LR atomizers, the AW IMR 1600 is best... but the AW IMR 2000 (and the Pana CGR CH) would be better for VV VW...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sonic-imr-18650-2250mah-cgr18650ch-stock.html
Right now, the CGR18650Ch can be gotten for a steal, since they PD is the latest thing and seems to be replacing them.

fwiw, I don't like the MNKE IMR 18650... they just don't keep up, don't know what the big deal it... and $15 a pop at the one vendor I found them at.

 

[IzzyD]

I generally only use AWs batts for my mods though have 2 panny CGR18650CH which perform well but not as good as the AW 18650 1600mah. Just got delivery 4 samsung INR 18650 20R 2000mah batts and bought based on a review. They seem to hold a better or equal voltage than the AW 1600mah with a slightly longer runtimes all the way to 20amps.

I did a rudimentary test last night on a 1.3 atty (same mod) with the samsungs and pannys, with the samsung hold nearly a .1v higher voltage but as I said only basic test with 510 volt meter.

Here's the testing comparator from lygte-info Battery test-review 18650 comparator

Hope I have broken the thread rules by post this here but if I have let me know and I'll edit accordingly.

 

[Blix]

Here's a link to Davids tests of the Pana CGR18650CH 2250mah... vs AW IMR 1600... at 1. 2.5 amp and 2. at 5 amp.
Each time, same story...
more mah more time, but less output, less bang, and during lower voltage end of usage.
David makes the distinction that for mechanical and LR atomizers, the AW IMR 1600 is best... but the AW IMR 2000 (and the Pana CGR CH) would be better for VV VW...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...sonic-imr-18650-2250mah-cgr18650ch-stock.html
Right now, the CGR18650Ch can be gotten for a steal, since they PD is the latest thing and seems to be replacing them.

fwiw, I don't like the MNKE IMR 18650... they just don't keep up, don't know what the big deal it... and $15 a pop at the one vendor I found them at.

Uke, see this thread, the Orbtronics are the Pana PD's: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8650-2900mah-high-drain-version-part-1-a.html

The CGR aren't as good, but good batteries still.

But for SLR, the PD's seems hard to beat.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Thanks.

I suspect that I got an older model with a slightly raised center pin. Attys seem to sit a little higher than they do on my other pv's...

It's hard to tell without it here to examine, but as a general rule of thumb i set them up (both the PrecisePlus 18500 and 18650) with the AW IMR with one thick (.100 thick) and one thin (.070) oring under the battery and three washers on the center post. Those should have come with your parts kit. Throw is a bit longer with that setup, but works great.

NOTE: the ELA doesn't work the same since it has a movable extension, there is no setup necessary and there is no o-ring changing necessary for different batteries.

 

[dakrido]

They're back in stock! Just ordered some super-t driptips that'll come in the same bag as the ella with next weeks vapemail!


Envoyé de mon iPad à l'aide de Tapatalk

 

[jasl90]

It's hard to tell without it here to examine, but as a general rule of thumb i set them up (both the PrecisePlus 18500 and 18650) with the AW IMR with one thick (.100 thick) and one thin (.070) oring under the battery and three washers on the center post. Those should have come with your parts kit. Throw is a bit longer with that setup, but works great.

NOTE: the ELA doesn't work the same since it has a movable extension, there is no setup necessary and there is no o-ring changing necessary for different batteries.

Thanks David,

I bought it off of the classifieds and it didn't come with any additional parts.
Sounds like the amount of "lift" under the battery appears to be pretty close to what you're calling for, the problem is the stock post can't reach it very well. I had 4, fairly thick washers in it and I still had to bottom out the button to make contact with the battery... Couldn't add more washers because the screw was only catching a single thread as it was.

If you have the o-ring & washer specs, I'll hit ACE on my way home... Gotta love their fasteners selection...

If you'd be willing to look at it, I can send it in (preferably after I have my ELA).

 

[forcedfuel50]

Thanks David,

I bought it off of the classifieds and it didn't come with any additional parts.
Sounds like the amount of "lift" under the battery appears to be pretty close to what you're calling for, the problem is the stock post can't reach it very well. I had 4, fairly thick washers in it and I still had to bottom out the button to make contact with the battery... Couldn't add more washers because the screw was only catching a single thread as it was.

If you have the o-ring & washer specs, I'll hit ACE on my way home... Gotta love their fasteners selection...

If you'd be willing to look at it, I can send it in (preferably after I have my ELA).

Yeah, somethings funny with it. We can take a look at it and give it a freshen up. Also, we do sell a parts kit since the seller didn't include it, it comes with the correct washers and orings you need.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Bump:

-Precise ELA Hybrid Adjustable Center Post:

• We wanted to take the ultra-reliable, no leak design of Super-T’s press-in Rhodium over Gold plated center post and make it adjustable. Our innovative Hybrid design does just that!
• Our Hybrid design is unique in that, unlike full-floating/self-adjusting designs, no matter how tight you compress down the sections and center post onto the battery, none of that force will transfer up through the center post to your atomizer which can cause atomizer shorts.
• Atomizer positively seats on the top cap with no play or wobble and the user can adjust the post height and force applied to the atomizer center pin. No more shorting atomizers!

Note the attention to detail with machined in flats that accept a 7/16 or 11mm wrench. Normally, you'll be able to just adjust it with your fingers, but, should it get stuck, it beats the heck out of taking a pliers to your precious mod!

- Super-T ELA: Quality you can see! The ELA's internal finish is of higher quality then most competitors external finish is. Bringing the machining in house will definitely yield big dividends going forward in quality.

Precise ELA's extension tube interior finish VS. a popular competitors extension tube interior:

-Top Cap shown with non-adjustable draw cover for Atomizers, Tanks, Rbas.

Two things to note:

1. Atomizers and tanks get tightened down solidly against the cap and the center post is adjusted up to the atomizer/tank/rba. Makes it rock solid with no wobble!

2. The center slotted section is raised .005 above the surrounding cover for airflow when using tanks, which allows you to still tighten the tank all the way down rock solid, yet maintain airflow and an integrated look.

-Top cap with adjustable draw cover.

Two things to note:

1. The atomizer stays put, it did not move, only the covers were switched from the previous picture.

2. Air enters 360 degrees around the atomizer through the top of the cover. Twist to adjust draw.

 

[theECB]

David, I have a question on the adjustable draw cap. You mentioned that the atomizer wasn't removed to install the draw cap, but what about an Ody or other non 510/306 width device. These devices would be unable to sit down in the sunken connector created by the adjustable draw cap. Does the adjustable center pin raise up enough to overcome the additional length added by the adjustable draw cap so that a connection is still made?

Or, does the cap only work with the slimmer 510 atty style atomizers?