Yea, that's the same way I test it as well.
Thanks for the pic
Thanks for the pic
If the chip is firing up when you have the top and bottom sections together and you have continuity for the all the mini connectors, then its either your solders to the fire button tact switch or your atty isnt seated. (But you would get a "check atty" message). Does the board work if you just press the on-board tact switch?
That sucks! But since it's white, it should "buff right out".http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/23/f96c5f011a5827218b59a690799ef681.jpg
I have this same ridge on both of the bodies that I ordered, and yes it does sand off. Just have to be patient.What a day! Not only did my V4.2 come in from printing, the DNA40's from the Co-Op also arrived! So after a quick dry fit I'll now need to figure out what color this is going to be (thinking of just clear coating it).
Polished white from Sculpteo. Only minor issue is the small ridge on one side that I'm sure would be sanded off. The plastic is much stiffer than print jobs I've gotten from Shapeways.
I have this same ridge on both of the bodies that I ordered, and yes it does sand off. Just have to be patient.
Is this going to be a problem with the colored prints? I just ordered a non polished black print this morning....
Awesome.[emoji29]All of the black 3d prints I have received appear to be white with a top black layer so yes it could be a problem if the ridge isn't pure black material.
This is the last 3d print that was black before sanding smooth.
(Sorry it's not a peko or v4.2... It's all I have not painted)
Not with with this top cap. The 22mm would go all the way to the edge. The 18mm fits the hole, but it would sit on top... (v3 wood). Same for the 22mm. Just use a 1mm o-ring with the FD classic or use a 8mm x 1.5mm around the atty 510 threads and you should be able to get it pretty flush.
I didn't have those ridges on mine GDeal