No disrepect to the Amish intended. LOL Maybe they got somethin' going on after all with less and more direct government. I mean who could be more condo commando than the FDA?
Have a great Memorial Day Weekend all.
Good luck.
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No disrepect to the Amish intended. LOL Maybe they got somethin' going on after all with less and more direct government. I mean who could be more condo commando than the FDA?
Have a great Memorial Day Weekend all.
Good luck.
Gazing longingly at my three Kay's, I almost dread the day I drop the first t.m.c. into one I may never want to go back either and that would be torture. A curious researcher's work is never done.
Curses.
Gazing longingly at my three Kay's, I almost dread the day I drop the first t.m.c. into one I may never want to go back either and that would be torture. A curious researcher's work is never done.
Curses.
Just ordered a Taifun GT and GS as well as a kfl+ v2 to join my kayfun 3.1 (which has been on retirement due to filing/wicking issues).
Can't wait to get these from slowtech. I hear very good things about the Taifun.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.
I use four Taifun GT's in my rotation. Originals. Comparable to the 3.1. Very nice. Very slight preference over the kayfun, though I believe the Kay has a slightly better flavor, the GT slightly better vapor, ease of filling and wicking. You cannot go wrong with either and I recommend both, heartily. Good luck and Enjoy!
v
Built my standard. 070 (#50) tensioned 30awg 8/7 and lobbed it in my mpt2. Chucked in some rxw slim and everything was perfect.
Yeah right........not so much. lol
As expected, from macs' posts, flavor wick is required or you will get the dreaded gurgle followed by a nice piss'n all over your battery experience. Well, I hate everything about flavor(less) wicks. I have always pitched them when wicking with cotton and used the "wick tuck" method which has always worked great for blocking off that little area of wick slot between the coil wick and the chimney.
So here's what I did.
RXW Wick Tuck:
Slide the rxw through your pre-installed coil and cut it a little longer than normal. About 1/32" past the outer flange.
Take a needle and gently separate the strands from where the wick exits the slot all the way to the ends.
Rinse the assembly under running water to remove any small particles that may have been created while separating the strands.
Install chimney and chimney seal.
With a needle or a small screwdriver lift and tuck the top half (at least) of the wick strands underneath(behind) the chimney seal. This will reveal the center hole of the RXW so that juice will flow freely into the coil.
Trim the excess strands from the bottom half of the wick strands even with the outer flange and ensure the bottom strands have not been pulled up out of place with respect to the coil.
Last step: carefully feed a small needle through the center hole of the rxw to ensure that it is clear of wick clippings or distortion then rinse again.
Note: This does work if your desire is to leave the wick in the coil during dryburn/cleaning . No guarantee that you can r&r the rxw for torching purposes.
YMMV
Also, I may decide to reduce my coil id to a #51(.067) size as it appears that #50(.070) may be a bit large. It acts like a high turn or short or something as it intermittantly burns my juice slightly at otherwise normal wattages.
I dunno, just play'n round
Yeah right........not so much. lol
As expected, from macs' posts, flavor wick is required or you will get the dreaded gurgle followed by a nice piss'n all over your battery experience. Well, I hate everything about flavor(less) wicks. I have always pitched them when wicking with cotton and used the "wick tuck" method which has always worked great for blocking off that little area of wick slot between the coil wick and the chimney.
So here's what I did.
RXW Wick Tuck:
Slide the rxw through your pre-installed coil and cut it a little longer than normal. About 1/32" past the outer flange.
Take a needle and gently separate the strands from where the wick exits the slot all the way to the ends.
Rinse the assembly under running water to remove any small particles that may have been created while separating the strands.
Install chimney and chimney seal.
With a needle or a small screwdriver lift and tuck the top half (at least) of the wick strands underneath(behind) the chimney seal. This will reveal the center hole of the RXW so that juice will flow freely into the coil.
Trim the excess strands from the bottom half of the wick strands even with the outer flange and ensure the bottom strands have not been pulled up out of place with respect to the coil.
Last step: carefully feed a small needle through the center hole of the rxw to ensure that it is clear of wick clippings or distortion then rinse again.
Note: This does work if your desire is to leave the wick in the coil during dryburn/cleaning . No guarantee that you can r&r the rxw for torching purposes.
YMMV
Also, I may decide to reduce my coil id to a #51(.067) size as it appears that #50(.070) may be a bit large. It acts like a high turn or short or something as it intermittantly burns my juice slightly at otherwise normal wattages.
I dunno, just play'n round
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Hi cig. I've prob built out more PTK's on #50 than any other wind and the diameter itself is good, as is #51. I don't know what is exactly perfect, it varies for juice and temperature for everyone. But the zone between 1/16" and 2 mm is definitely productive. You know the actual natural untreated dimension of the raw wick media is about 2.2mm. I suspect having seen a variety of kilned product that treatment and cleaning reduce the size of the inter fiber spaces compressing the wick (dries them empty and shrinks the fabric of the weave narrowing the weave's wall thickness). It will swell back towards its natural state with the introduction of juice by 10% at least. Running a needle through will encourage this as I've previously pointed out. Certainly it fills up the space between the bottom of the KPT slot and the bottom of the stem or chimney silicone grommet. Yes, removing it will most definitely cause flooding, severe, and result in premature coil/wick failure due to losses in efficiency. Why I too found getting the balance right for cotton which compresses in use depending on density.
I would be very leary about doing anything but a slight bias cut on this braid. Not fiddling with it in any way. The fibers are minute and fragile. Handling should be avoided although it's less likely to shed after break in. What break in? Expansion of those very inter fiber spaces by the introduction of juice and only juice. It expands and tightens the fibre weave wall. My experience is that washing with water before use may actually inhibit an optimal development of those spaces. These are my conclusions after countless observations of the media during various stages of operation and over time. Both examination of the wear on exposed heads and sectioning of the wick itself to examine the fiber density under magnification.
I always keep Q-tips at my rebuild station. A little juice on one and it's a great wet mop for any fiber left over from synthetics or cotton. You don't want those deposits swimming around. I'm not concerned at all about aspiration; quite the opposite, they get sucked into the wick and block up the vacuum.
There are often suggestions that the product should be boiled. I would strongly recommend against this to remove refractory taste or any other reason. Uniformly my attempts with washing or boiling have resulted in a wick that produces muted flavor compared to one "cured" by actual operation in glycerin. In some cases the flow is reconstituted after several tanks but that's just too long to wait for it to be practical. Now once the wick is "cured" it may be freely washed without affecting flavor. In fact it washes out better after it's gone through some juice. Very likely for the reasons mentioned.
Now imagine a garden hose you've clipped off the connector from. It's a nice clean flow that emerges. Likewise if you dropped it in your pool and used it with a sump pump. Nice clean draw and exit. Consider how it might flow if you frayed the edges of the clean cut. If it started to fray or split. You wan't to avoid this happening to the wick. It will mute the flavor by suppressing and disrupting the flow. So after washes it might help to very delicately trim any significant fraying of the original bias cut. I start with a 45 deg and end up with 90 after a couple washes. That's usually about time to rewick the coil if still a microcoil. Used to in early testing to evaluate their life (long) but it's too easy and cheap to just wind a new one. I don't try to manage the coils anymore. Those tests were to determine the outside extreme for these wicks which may be out six weeks or more with clearer juices with little or no loss of flavor (not talkin' NET's here gang).
I test for nominal (typical) operation and durability cig. For myself, I'm flavor sensitive. And even with Nextel I detect slight pigmentation effects within a day or two. Despite Nextel's exceptional performance I'm for washing wicks like every other day. I'm a perfectionist that way for myself. I've suffered chaining really grimmy tanks for this labor of love for weeks to prove one point or another from the perspective of the average vaper. And most don't taste what I taste as I walk my test tanks around. But I'm very demanding for my own use.
When you wash these wicks regularly before you start carbonizing stony pigment into the wick surface and overly saturating the fibers then Nextel is actually off the rails good. It's a bit more fiddly but you can maintain a standard of consistency that's almost like new every single day. With very, very little dry burning (a couple of pulses right out of the tank) then into a cold water drink, a hot soak then reuse when removed and dried. Periodically, ultrasonic for the best builds and full recycle. That meets my standard. The benefit is that a single coil can be made to stand up to the rigors of vaporization with this level of flavor and power handling (9W+) for 2-4 weeks with some pretty dense juices. But you gotta do the laundry folks. It's a good payoff in the flavor and vapor rewards. For my own use and my special blends I run two tanks usually so I always have one that's clear to be recycled by a spare back up. Back in minutes, two tanks up with my fav available. There's always a wash in rotation to keep the flow going at Mac's place.
Good luck.
Mountains of info Mac! Thanks.
Guess I'll go back to the 45° bias cut. I must have misunderstood one of your past posts where I thought I had read that I needed the flavor wick to stop leaking.
My original biased cut leaked at first but strangly, or not so strangely, stopped leaking but the wick definitely exhibited signs of drying out or was not making contact with the id of the coil . Perhaps these were actually signs of insufficient saturation?
So how long should I wait for the nextel to saturate before vaping?
Guess I'll go back to the 45° bias cut. I must have misunderstood one of your past posts where I thought I had read that I needed the flavor wick to stop leaking.
My original biased cut leaked at first but strangly, or not so strangely, stopped leaking but the wick definitely exhibited signs of drying out or was not making contact with the id of the coil . Perhaps these were actually signs of insufficient saturation?
So how long should I wait for the nextel to saturate before vaping?
I'm not sure you had a problem with the wick. You should use a flavor wick of the same size. It doesn't need to be needle pierced. It's a place holder but does aid in the soaking of the primary from above; and of course, blocks the top of the slot. Two wick sections fill the slot precisely, I mean exactly. Like the wick was made for the Kanger. This was my first discovery about Nextel compared to other media.
On the other hand, the open ends of the wick must protrude into the juice channel. If they are blocked in any manner, say by butting up against the wall of the channel (too long) or frayed or blocked by debris this particular wick can go dry. Bone dry. It's spectacular flow rate delivers its contents quickly to the coil and yer done.
No, usually flooding is attributable to other causes. Primarily shorts and subtle ones being the worst. An example would be a minor separation of turns in a wind sometimes to small to notice. Or, similarly a high (loose) or low (tight) end turn. Anything that would tend to unbalance the coil in terms of tension, either in the wind or the lead termination. This tends to route electrons to that loose point to the extent of overheating and consequently over-cooling of the remainder of the element. So…flooding. Like everything else in nature…it's about balance.
I keep reminding everyone…watch for hangers. Particularly if you've only got silicone grommets. They literally pop out when you mount your tank. And it only takes a small fraction of a millimeter to make contact with the base threading. The latter all too often is out of spec and dangerously close to the assembly housing (tight bases) so a protrusion will reach it easily. Tight bases and resistance changes should always be suspected. Switch the bases on your tanks if you encounter this. It may help. Changes of resistance after your build are probably better than 9/10 a termination lead run amok.
I guess I'm feeling a bit gabby this evening but it's time to rest. I'll return to grommets and recent discoveries later today.
So good luck all.
Good morning.
Missed a point here cig, sorry.
Short answer: Just like any other wick media except cotton!. No biggie. You'll get a bit of the synthetic scorch sensation for a few draws but that's it. It should take seconds for the ceramic to saturate as soon as the liquid hits the juice channel which as as soon as you invert the tank. To expedite that a drop or two alongside each end of the wick should soak in by the time you install the base and flip the tank. To get along further, a good dry draw before you fire should fully wet it.
Cotton? Dry burn? A no, no. Definitely requires pre-soaking as above.
That's it!
Have a great Memorial Day all!
Good luck.
Good morning.
Missed a point here cig, sorry.
Short answer: Just like any other wick media except cotton!. No biggie. You'll get a bit of the synthetic scorch sensation for a few draws but that's it. It should take seconds for the ceramic to saturate as soon as the liquid hits the juice channel which as as soon as you invert the tank. To expedite that a drop or two alongside each end of the wick should soak in by the time you install the base and flip the tank. To get along further, a good dry draw before you fire should fully wet it.
Cotton? Dry burn? A no, no. Definitely requires pre-soaking as above.
That's it!
Have a great Memorial Day all!
Good luck.
Ok, thaks mac.
I'm running a test now on rxw which should elliminate many of the variables that you mentioned. I hope.
Using four identical evods that performed flawlessly with cotton thru 1.5ml of my cleanest vaping juice. The coils are firing perfect, no apparent shorts, high or low turns, hangers or hot legs and full contact of each winding as far as visability under 20x magnification. Res is within .032 ohms and stable.
Withdrew the cotton, washed, dried, rewicked with rxw. Two with flavor wicks and two with wick tuck.
Took your advice and used juice dampened q-tips to remove the ceramic particulates caused by installation of the wick.
I will be vaping on these four evods, with the same juice, exclusively untill they fail to produce a clean consistant flavor and/or vapor production.
The metric this test will be measured against will be the indentical setup, and juice, wicked with cotton which yeilded an average of 9 ml between wick changes using the wick tuck method.
It'll be fun......yooooouuuuu'll seeeeee. Lol
Built my first coil in a few weeks. I was able to force fit a 2mm screwdriver in the slot of an aerotank coil and decided to try the cigatron nip tuck method.
I was rusty rusty rusty. Took me 45 minutes to get the placement and terminations to my liking ! So frustrating !
29 awg 7/6, aiming for 1.6 ohms. To my utter disgust the resistance read 1.4 ohms. Now if it read 1.7 i would have been fine and attributed it to my rustiness and looseness of the build, but 1.4 has to be a short, right ?
I was rusty rusty rusty. Took me 45 minutes to get the placement and terminations to my liking ! So frustrating !
29 awg 7/6, aiming for 1.6 ohms. To my utter disgust the resistance read 1.4 ohms. Now if it read 1.7 i would have been fine and attributed it to my rustiness and looseness of the build, but 1.4 has to be a short, right ?
sounds about right to me. terminations can change these numbers, but it's going to be in the same ball park as your 1.4 ohms:
View attachment Microcoils and Resistance Chart.pdf
A .3 ohm variance is not significant and can be attributable to many factors. Good luck to you!
Thanks for the link, but i only saw awg 28 and 30, i'm using 29. I use
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
And i can't imagine not having a short somewhere if my resistance is lower than the theoretical. But i guess you are saying that 0.2 ohms is insignificant ? I have had issues with everchanging resistance with silicone insulators before, but this one just keeps steady at 1.4 which is lower than the theoretical possibility.
29 will be between the two and subtracting for 1 less coil on the chart, 1.4 ohms seems about right. You can use the Vaper's toolbox and you will get a very similar result as you have. The biggest variable is the length of the legs. Only you know what those actuals are. Good luck!
I put in 1.6 mm for the two legs combined, which is accurate to 1mm. I am not sure what Vapors toolbox is, but according to Steam Engine, if your desired resistance is 1.4 ohms, using 2 mm inner col diameter, 1.6 mm legs and 29 awg kanthal, the theoretical wraps would be 5.69, rounded to 6/5. I am not sure if wrapping with tension makes a difference ( i would assume it does but not by .2 ohms ).
Either way, i spent way too much time wrapping it, and it looks pretty ! I will use it ! Will try the same build again and use a rubber grommet and pay careful attention to leg termination, and compare the results.
The theoretical resistance can be off for any number of reasons. Kanthal can vary resistance per foot based on manufacturer. .1 ohm or .2 ohms is within the theoretical deviation, and I would not worry about it. Sounds like you have a great coil. I adjust everything to watts anyway, so a slight difference in resistance makes no difference whatsoever to my vape. Good luck to you.
Maz, did you fire the coil before checking the res? When you wind a good tight contact coil it is not unusual to read res lower than anticipated as some/all of the winds are shorted together. Once you fire the coil the wire oxidizes on the surface and electrically insulates/isolates the winds from one another.
I always check my res before firing (to make sure I don't have a dead short) and after firing a couple of times (to check final res).
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Yeah ... I don't have an ohm meter (getting soon !), measured on my regulated mod, after firing. Must be a termination issue ... working fine though, and no wicking issues btw using your nip tuck method. Thank you ! I must have a knack for cotton wicking kanger coils, haven't has a gurgling, flooding or dry hit issue ever ... a little more problematic on the kfl's but getting better at that too !
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