ProVari Variable Voltage Mod

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Vaporologist

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The other engineering factor to keep in mind is this: the battery internal resistance goes up with battery “end of charge” and battery “end of life”. So these calculations are for the best case condition of a new battery or a battery that is in it prime of its life. As the battery gets older the internal resistance goes up. There is not a lot of data on what it will actually degrade to and this degradation will vary a large amount from battery to battery. If you want to use the ProVari in a way that will make everything last longer, then the one thing we recommend is to recharge the battery when the low battery light starts to flash. It is when the battery terminal voltage drops low that these large currents get drawn. That is when the maximum stress is placed on everything.
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Thank you so much for that information! batteries and safety has been the one subject that I've been obsessing about since I started vaping. Thanks for explaining how it applies to the Provari and its long-term performance.

Btw, I've been using mine for about 5 hrs since it arrived today. All the "hype" surrounding this PV is well deserved. It simply rocks my world! Thanks. :thumbs:
 

ukeman

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hey Grammie,
i don't have that accurate of an eye i guess to see any difference, if there is one... could be.

I use one with a reg 510 and one with a 901. Most of my juices are pretty compatible on the same atty, but when i occasionally want something with fruit flavor, I could dedicate one that way, thus saving it, as that is rarely.

but it's a minor detail...There's really nothing better on the market right now... making room for these kind of concerns... life's a lot easier lol ... :)

I can tell the difference in my 2 Provari's. Very easy, the first one I purchased (#3754 01/20, #4708 03/11) the font on the display is different. The 2nd #4708 the font is smaller and slanted.

Anyone else notice this?
 

cam6512002

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Vaporologist

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Now I have a question for you... What's going to be the best way to carry your spare battery?
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Here is a pic for you, rchriste. I had to modify it slightly by cutting it down in the middle, forgot about the whole side button thing. It's been a while since I've used anything other than a bottom button switch PV. For now, the ProVari will stay in my hand or in my pocket and the case will carry a 6V MOD for backup.


provarionthego.jpg
 
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Vaporologist

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jimho

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jimho

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With regards to the best way or settings to run the ProVari at;

The ProVari was designed from the ground up to be as reliable as possible considering the environment in which it is used. Wherever possible, design margins were selected that would allow it to perform with the best efficiency over the entire wattage use range. The posted Efficiency Chart shows actual lab data as measured during the product development cycle. The ProVari, by design, has to be as efficient as possible to keep its internal heat down as this insures long term reliability and allows the maximum battery run time.

Some have asked, "Why are High Drain Batteries recommended?" The answer to this is: High Drain Batteries have an internal resistance of 20 milliohms. All other batteries have an internal resistance of over 160 milliohms. This factor of 8 (or more) means the battery terminal voltage will be lower and internal battery heat will be 8 times higher during its use. That all translates to less runtime and less battery life. All DC/DC Converters work on a power in/power out principle.

For example, if you are running at 12 watts output, the current that is being taken from the battery when the battery terminal voltage is 3.7 volts is: ((12 watts) / (3.7 volts)) / .95 (converter efficiency) = 3.414 amps. During the condition when the power output is 6 volts and 2.5 amps (the maximum rated ProVari power output condition) the battery current can be ((15 watts) / (3.7 volts)) / .92 (converter efficiency) = 4.4 amps. Now let’s look what happens when the battery terminal voltage drops to 3.3 volts. ((15 watts) / ( 3.3 volts)) / .92 (converter efficiency) = 4.94 amps. OR when the battery terminal voltage drops to 3.0 volts. (15 watts / 3.0 volts) / .92 (converter efficiency) = 5.43 amps. It is important to note that this is just the average current drain, the peak currents from the battery can be double this number. Remember the converter works on a pulse principle.

So, what happens to the battery terminal voltage when these high currents are being drawn? With an internal resistance of 20 milliohms, the battery terminal voltage drop when 5 amps is being drawn is: (5 amps)x(.02 ohms) = .1 volts. But if the battery internal resistance is 160 milliohms then it becomes: (5 amps)x(.160 ohms) = .8 volts or 8 times worse. The ProVari internal components have to be selected to handle over 12 amps of pulsed currents to deal with these boundary conditions in order to meet the rated output of 6 volts and 2.5 amps (15 watts). Even if you don't choose to use it there, that is what it is rated for.

The other engineering factor to keep in mind is this: the battery internal resistance goes up with battery “end of charge” and battery “end of life”. So these calculations are for the best case condition of a new battery or a battery that is in it prime of its life. As the battery gets older the internal resistance goes up. There is not a lot of data on what it will actually degrade to and this degradation will vary a large amount from battery to battery. If you want to use the ProVari in a way that will make everything last longer, then the one thing we recommend is to recharge the battery when the low battery light starts to flash. It is when the battery terminal voltage drops low that these large currents get drawn. That is when the maximum stress is placed on everything.

So, for those that say: “It’s no big deal, we are only using 2 amps output”, remember it is not the output current that matters with regards to the battery current; it is the power taken from the battery with reference to the battery terminal voltage. That is an entirely different number, especially when taking the battery internal resistance into account. :)

As far as the ProVari electronics is concerned, it is as efficient as we could make it and still keep the size and cost reasonable. The lab data taken on an actual unit posted below:
Provari_Efficiency_Chart.jpg

Thanks for the detailed explaination - so simply put- the lower resistance of the IMRs allow for less voltage drop on the output and less heat being generated......

All technobabble asside it's important to accept that there are always trade offs - after 4+ months of using a ProVari, I still think you guys did an awsome job-
 

rchriste

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For now, the ProVari will stay in my hand or in my pocket and the case will carry a 6V MOD for backup.

That's pretty awesome Vaporologist. That outfit would keep me going for at least a week. It's not easy letting that ProVari leave your hand right? I'm always very conscious of where mine is at all times.
 

progg

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Thanks progg- yea- it touches on the same ideas (glad to know I'm not alone on it) but unless I missed something, it doesn't answer the qustion.

No, you didn't miss anything. It was an affirmation -- you're not alone.

I wonder if an autopsy of an atty in various states of degradation would provide answers ? Is it worth it -- not for me currently.
 

jimho

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No, you didn't miss anything. It was an affirmation -- you're not alone.

I wonder if an autopsy of an atty in various states of degradation would provide answers ? Is it worth it -- not for me currently.

I've taken several apart... ... I suppose someone will argue that all that gunk is somehow conducting current, but that's kinda hard to swallow.... if anything I would think it's just acting as an insulator... without a CSI lab and a good background in metallurgy, I don't think there's much we'd be able to figure out ..
 

progg

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I've taken several apart... ... I suppose someone will argue that all that gunk is somehow conducting current, but that's kinda hard to swallow.... if anything I would think it's just acting as an insulator... without a CSI lab and a good background in metallurgy, I don't think there's much we'd be able to figure out ..

In the thread I previously posted -- A reliable member states he's able to recover resistance in an atty via an extended dry burn. I don't do dry burns so ? Time -- maybe when I retire. Then again, buying bulk is good.

If I haven't yet -- Thanks for your ProVari posts.
The ProVari has exceeded my high expectations. Damn fine company.
 

cam6512002

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My pro vari has been shipped. I just got the notice last night. This thing is coming out of Washington and I am in VA. How long before it arrives? It seems like i ordered this thing months ago. (ordered on 3-24) I hope this pro vari solves several issues that I am having with e cigs that I started smoking in January 2011.
First i hope it fires on all my carts........I am currently using a 3.7V KR V-go and some carts wont fire because the center pin on the PV and cart do not make contact (I know pull the pin up). I think it is ridiculous I have to pull the pin to make it connect.
Second of all I hope the pro vari solves the fact that I get a carto I like and then the next one isnt as good (not the same warmth or vapor). I suppose this is due to the resistance not being the same.
Finally I hope the pro vari solves the fact that I have yet to be satisfied by any cart with a 3.7V device.
I truly believe this unit will satisfy my needs like an analog.
What is everyone attaching to their pro vari that is working for them? I have a like/hate relationship going on with CE2. Cartomizers with filler just do not cut it for me. Help me.
 
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