ProVari Variable Voltage Mod

Status
Not open for further replies.

Wylie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 13, 2009
1,316
210
Florida
Uke, I have been running the new Provari Batt now for 5 days, the thing is a monster, run times are way way way longer then the AW IMR 18650 your gonna like it.


Five days?! It's only a 2500 mAh battery, right? On a 2900 mAh AW I'm only getting two days on another device.

What voltage are you using? How often are you using it? What resistance is your atomizer?
 

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
i think he means 5 days total with few charges. and lots of run time.
i should get mine in today. to test.

Five days?! It's only a 2500 mAh battery, right? On a 2900 mAh AW I'm only getting two days on another device.

What voltage are you using? How often are you using it? What resistance is your atomizer?
 

Pete54

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 30, 2009
2,637
3,412
Clearwater, Florida
My ProVari only goes down to 3.3v, so you must have a different version. If I go down past 3.3v, it swings back around to 6.0v.

And you should be able to go to at least 5.0v on a 2 ohm atty/carto. That's where you'll hit 2.5 amps.

EDIT: I'm now thinking you mean 2.4v on your battery?

No, just my fat fingers hitting the wrong key!! I meant 3.4v. I understand about 5.0v hitting 2.5 amps but I keep reading about people getting errors below what should be 2.5 amps. Again, I've never had one issue with mine. I just want to make sure the early issues with the low battery indicator have been taken care of before I order another one.
 

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
2.4 ?
that is lower than it is supposed to go... hah
from what i have read, 3.5 is the designed cutoff voltage...
some are getting early blinking around 3.7 which is to soon.
I have had 2 Vari's from first run, used every single day for 6-7 months... cutting off at 3.5 ...
the issue (early blinking) seems to have started no more than a couple months ago.

I use a 2.0Ω LR Boge carto in a tank on my Provari with no problem and can go as high as 4.8 volts without an issue. I keep hearing about people having issues with errors at these levels. If I remember correctly, there is a 2.5 amp limit on these, right? The only thing stopping me from buying another Provari as a backup is that each one seems to have a life of it's own concerning when the low battery indicator starts flashing and where the amp limit kicks in. I can go as low as 2.4 volts before the low battery warning even thinks about starting to flash. Have they got these issues ironed out yet? Am I the only person whose Provari works perfectly as advertised?
 

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
3.4.... close enough... I hear ya Pete.
New spring is supposed to have something to do with the fix...
I'd like to see a laymans explanation myself... being a not tech type.
No, just my fat fingers hitting the wrong key!! I meant 3.4v. I understand about 5.0v hitting 2.5 amps but I keep reading about people getting errors below what should be 2.5 amps. Again, I've never had one issue with mine. I just want to make sure the early issues with the low battery indicator have been taken care of before I order another one.
 

vanttila

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 7, 2011
78
79
Helsinki, Finland
Except that chart may as well be complete bollocks .. it shows way higher currents on the 2.2Ω than you can actually use. I was really annoyed when I based a purchase on that chart initially and also grabbed a pile of 2.2Ω bits n pieces, only to find that 4.5V or so was causing the E2 and once the atty was run in and was around the 2Ω or less mark I was down to eGo voltages again, 3.5V .. E2.
Now I use a minimum of 2.6Ω (new) and grab 3Ω stuff when I can find it. ProVape really should update that chart .. I don't know if it was generated with an old version of the ProVari but it may as well be written by fairy's for its actual resemblance to real life. I nearly sent mine back for warranty..
Try the upper values in that chart and you will see what I mean .. not even close.

EDIT: I have done some retesting with a thin magnet attached to the bottom of the IMR 18650 battery and the E2 error does not occur till much higher voltages now. Suspect I was getting a substantial voltage drop at the negative battery terminal, it was certainly warming enough to be felt in the fingers after a few seconds. If I was losing voltage at this point then the converter has to run at a higher current to maintain correct output voltage .. so this may explain E2 errors at higher watts..

Hey guys!

I'm getting my provari in a day or two. Bought it from this guy on a different forum, with a one week return policy. He said that his Provari is super picky about the atomizers it accepts. He's not been able to get the low resistance attys/cartos to work, getting the E1's and E2's. I was just wondering if the magnet thing would work. I have no idea what it actually does, my only knowledge about electricity is based on one physics course in high school. Was wondering if a small strip on magnetic tape on the negative end of the battery would do the trick?
Do you guys think that the Provari in question is a faulty one, and should be sent back to provape for a repair? It works fine on the normal and high resistance attys but does not accept any lr-attys. Thank you guys for helping.
 

Stonemull

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
I wrote that post before the spring upgrade. I got hold of a dozen of the new springs last thursday and have been distributing them to the aussie provari community.Feedback so far is very good, I can no longer feel the back end of the provari warming up at all.
I gave up on the magnet long ago, for the last few months I had a second spring coiled over the original which dropped resistance a bit but not as much as the new spring, not tested it yet.
Ignore the magnet comments I made months ago .. get hold of the new upgraded spring from provape for $1.25 or so .. you can't go wrong.
 

vanttila

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 7, 2011
78
79
Helsinki, Finland
Last edited:

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
I have a first run Provari... it is said not to have the issue of early blinking.
I haven't really tested it with the spring ( i got one with the Provari Power batt to beta) for LR use yet, but i did notice that the batt discharge blinking is even better;
it used to blink at 3.5 and now it blinks at 3.3 or 3.2.

Visually and to touch, the new spring looks bigger and thicker.


Hey guys!

I'm getting my provari in a day or two. Bought it from this guy on a different forum, with a one week return policy. He said that his Provari is super picky about the atomizers it accepts. He's not been able to get the low resistance attys/cartos to work, getting the E1's and E2's. I was just wondering if the magnet thing would work. I have no idea what it actually does, my only knowledge about electricity is based on one physics course in high school. Was wondering if a small strip on magnetic tape on the negative end of the battery would do the trick?
Do you guys think that the Provari in question is a faulty one, and should be sent back to provape for a repair? It works fine on the normal and high resistance attys but does not accept any lr-attys. Thank you guys for helping.
 

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
Bet it shows up today or tomorrow... just not tracking everything... happens all the time
I just ordered my provari online and it was actually shipped last wed unfortunately I haven't received it yet. when I checked it through usps it's still sitting in WA.. I thought priority shipping normally takes around 2-3 days.. did anyone of you experienced some delay with usps? I can't wait to get a hold of my provari.. :(
 

jimho

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 23, 2009
1,699
381
New York
Before I wreck my new spring, what's the best way to get it in so it sits properly?

PS: Uke- far as I can tell they are different materials- the new one is a bit shinier.....
I may be wrong and chances are your meter won't go this low (hard to check - maybe someone can verify), but it looks like the old one had a resistance of around .12 ohms and the new one comes in around .08 ohms.
 

ukeman

PV Masher
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2010
7,718
5,129
Kauai, Hawaii
You know me jimho, all thumbs...
i just kept at it with a nail file plastic handle; about 1.5 to 2 mm wide... pressing... was about to give up.... when i got it!
- bet you got it already...
.08 resistance? what does that do?


Before I wreck my new spring, what's the best way to get it in so it sits properly?

PS: Uke- far as I can tell they are different materials- the new one is a bit shinier.....
I may be wrong and chances are your meter won't go this low (hard to check - maybe someone can verify), but it looks like the old one had a resistance of around .12 ohms and the new one comes in around .08 ohms.
 

jimho

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 23, 2009
1,699
381
New York
You know me jimho, all thumbs...
i just kept at it with a nail file plastic handle; about 1.5 to 2 mm wide... pressing... was about to give up.... when i got it!
- bet you got it already...
.08 resistance? what does that do?

of course- I used a pair of long needle nose pliers and a little flat bladed screw driver - ...
why does the spring matter? ...

Remember a while back we had a discussion about efficiency of a certain wooden box and I showed how the difference between 12 inches of 20Ga and 22Ga wire could a small but noticable difference?

1) Let's say you're pulling 3 amps from the battery- that wire is costing you I2*R or about 1Watt (9*.12) for the 0.12 ohm spring and 0.7 Watts (9*.08) for the .08 ohm spring.
2) we've been told that the device is sensitive to the internal resistance of the battery- the resistance from the spring gets added into the total reistance that the device sees- I'm not saying it's that sensitive but it could concievably make a difference in detecting the low battery- perhaps that's why some people reported better results with magnets replacing the spring- (not recommended- the spring provides a mechanical function)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread