ProVari Variable Voltage Mod

[ukeman]

Hmmm, I haven't looked at it like that... although i never did get into HV until now, with the Vari for a couple months now, and having used it mostly at around 3 ohm / 4 volts avg... occasionally a 3.5 Ohm 4.8v or so., I don't consciously over drip when i want a slightly hotter vape.

In the most part of a year that i have been vaping, having tried all the bottom feeders, loving them vs dripping (yuck factors at the time), and then getting ultra picky about each vape... not liking bottom feeders due to occasional flooding; even with the "auto vacuum" function.

I found that for me, the ultimate vape is top feeding, directly in the center of the bridge whenever possible, just the right amount of juice... dripping.

In the better part of a year, I think i have learned all the ins and outs of the art of dripping including matching power to atty resistance, pyrex tips, bottle/needle setups for my juices.

Along comes the "smart PV"... regulated power to the atty every time, and every atty and resistance (just about).

I'm just glad there's a nice well to keep things neat...

I just found this thread with a google search trying to find out if the Provari will do exactly this. For it to work really well the only thing it needs is a top cap that allows the atty to set flush with the bottom of the juice well. Seems to be the one feature the Provari is missing and the only reason I haven't bought one yet.

That kind of top can make it harder to use tanks or other attachments, but that's easy to fix using an adapter for an extension.

Please somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I want one of these but if you're vaping at high voltage and having to flood your atty you can waste a lot of juice over time by wiping it out of the well.

 

[misterD]

This is exactly true, I had written in a long time ago to Provape, I asked if they would keep the exact set up they have and make the outside of the 510 connector threaded to accept an 801 Atty and drill a hole on either side of the lower wall of the 510/801 connector to let the juice flow back up into the Atty no matter if you where using the 510 or 801 when you take a pulll. I believe it was Dave that I PM'd with way back when, he said they would look into this, but nothing as of yet that I have heard. I bought one when they first came out and this was my very first thought and couldn't figure out WHY they never incorporated this in the top cap design.!

that sounds like a neat idea!

 

[uzzaperez]

Hmmm, I haven't looked at it like that... although i never did get into HV until now, with the Vari for a couple months now, and having used it mostly at around 3 ohm / 4 volts avg... occasionally a 3.5 Ohm 4.8v or so., I don't consciously over drip when i want a slightly hotter vape.

In the most part of a year that i have been vaping, having tried all the bottom feeders, loving them vs dripping (yuck factors at the time), and then getting ultra picky about each vape... not liking bottom feeders due to occasional flooding; even with the "auto vacuum" function.

I found that for me, the ultimate vape is top feeding, directly in the center of the bridge whenever possible, just the right amount of juice... dripping.

In the better part of a year, I think i have learned all the ins and outs of the art of dripping including matching power to atty resistance, pyrex tips, bottle/needle setups for my juices.

Along comes the "smart PV"... regulated power to the atty every time, and every atty and resistance (just about).

I'm just glad there's a nice well to keep things neat...

Yeah. As much as I'd like the atty to fit flush with the bottom of the well so it could suck juice, I'll still end up buying a Provari. The variable voltage with one high mAh battery just seems too convenient to pass on. The atty flush w/ the juice well would make it the ultimate does-it-all device for me, but fact is I'm a cartomizer guy because you can pocket a loaded carto w/ no worries about leaking and you get more time between needing to drip, and much less juice in mouth, etc. Cartos are just cleaner. Those are the same reasons the bottom feeders don't do it for me.

I still like to throw a regular atty on from time to time to hit a juice thats too thick for cartos or have a heavy vaping session w/out worrying how hot a carto is getting, but I suppose I can cope with the inability to suck the overflow since a standard atty is just an occasional thing for me anyway.

Still though, its a shame to be one simple feature away from perfect.

 

[misterD]

Yeah. As much as I'd like the atty to fit flush with the bottom of the well so it could suck juice, I'll still end up buying a Provari. The variable voltage with one high mAh battery just seems too convenient to pass on. The atty flush w/ the juice well would make it the ultimate does-it-all device for me, but fact is I'm a cartomizer guy because you can pocket a loaded carto w/ no worries about leaking and you get more time between needing to drip, and much less juice in mouth, etc. Cartos are just cleaner. Those are the same reasons the bottom feeders don't do it for me.



Still though, its a shame to be one simple feature away from perfect.

Provape could come up with an adapter to accomplish that. all it would do is slide down the atty connector to make it flush. I would pay 20 bucks for it and while I was at it I'd get the fancy cool looking new end caps.

and i do use cartos with my REO...

 

[PKZap27]

Provape could come up with an adapter to accomplish that. all it would do is slide down the atty connector to make it flush.

They should also incorporate a Drip Shield into this adapter.

 

[Christopherdav1d]

Ya know, since I got into HV vaping I literally CAN NOT get a satisfying vape from 3.7V. However, it's all changed since the provari! 3.7V Ego, Vs. 3.7V on the Provari are COMPLETELY different. I find myself actually vaping 3.7V on the provari and being completely satisfied! (The reason is because only the first couple puffs on the ego are 3.7...then as the battery does down so does the voltage and you end up vaping about 3.3-3.2V) Someone sent me a MAP tank they won on ECF as a gift, and it is AWESOME on the provari at 3.7-4V. LOVE IT!!!!

 

[saintj]

They should also incorporate a Drip Shield into this adapter.

Im just amazed how well the drip shield + 510 + 510 modders connector works on my ProVari. 3 or 4 drops into the 510 and never a drop of liquid in the juice well.

 

[2legsshrt]

I don't like the fact I can put a standard Joye 510 in and I can't crank it up past 4.4v without getting E2. I get the best satisfaction with a 1.5 Cisco 306 and an 18650 batt in my GGTS. Much better flavor and hit. Everytime I crank this thing up I get the E2. I didn't with a Joye HV but the atty burned out in 3 days. Still using my first Cisco in the GGTS and still stronger than anything else. Been about a month now.

 

[2legsshrt]

What I should say is the amperage limit is too low. I can't even use my 1.5 Cisco at 3.4 and my 2.0 Cisco at 3.8. I used to use the 2.3 standard Joyes on my GG at 6v. didn't last long but sure worked.

 

[saintj]

Interesting, I have a few fave juices that I will do nothing but DD. 4.4 - 4.8 seems to be my sweet spot depending on my mood and that's where I'm taking the standerd 510 with no E2. .Day in day out (@ work) I vape on the 510 Cartomizers .they sell at ProVape @ 4.4 - 4.7. Fill them once then stick a drip tip on and refill from time to time..

 

[Digs]

Does it happen right away? I don't usually vape the 510 but I've never seen an E2 error when I do. I just tried it out all the way up to 5.8V which should be 2.52 amps and still didn't get the E2 error.

 

[Stonemull]

Ya know, since I got into HV vaping I literally CAN NOT get a satisfying vape from 3.7V. However, it's all changed since the provari! 3.7V Ego, Vs. 3.7V on the Provari are COMPLETELY different. I find myself actually vaping 3.7V on the provari and being completely satisfied! (The reason is because only the first couple puffs on the ego are 3.7...then as the battery does down so does the voltage and you end up vaping about 3.3-3.2V) Someone sent me a MAP tank they won on ECF as a gift, and it is AWESOME on the provari at 3.7-4V. LOVE IT!!!!

The eGo is a 3.2V device all the time, fully charged .. 3.2V, .. flat .. 3.2v, it uses PWM to reduce the battery voltage to 3.2V at all times.
Sounds like a low voltage, but since the attys are designed for exactly that voltage, its correct.
I completely agree with your consensus though, I still manage ok with a 306LR on the eGo though.

Currently running boge cartos with drip tips at 4.4v. awesome vapur, need care to keep it topped up though as one dryish vape and its over for that carto.

Just ordered some of the new 510-eGo adapters from Health Cabin, $2 each. They also have the outer thread as well so gives the option of fitting an eGo cone as well.

 

[Stonemull]

I have been saying since I first got my Provari .. it does not like LR attys, 1.6Ω will E2 on mine at 3.4 or 3.5V, once dirty and the resistance lowers, occasional E2 on 3.3V. This does not seem to meet the claims of 2.5A, but perhaps the current detection is detecting spikes or whatever. Its little better than an eGo with LR parts anyway. about 7W max.

Throw on a 2.6Ω atty or carto and its a different beast, 6.0V and its still chugging along .. 13.8W .. and seems to hold a higher current than that will trip on an LR atty.
I like 8W or so personally. So tend to use the 4.5V area with carto's.

 

[2legsshrt]

Interesting, I have a few fave juices that I will do nothing but DD. 4.4 - 4.8 seems to be my sweet spot depending on my mood and that's where I'm taking the standerd 510 with no E2. .Day in day out (@ work) I vape on the 510 Cartomizers .they sell at ProVape @ 4.4 - 4.7. Fill them once then stick a drip tip on and refill from time to time..

Well I will try that. I still have a couple of those cartos I got with my ProVape. I really like DD with a 306. I think my 306 from ProVape works at Higher Voltage but all my driip tips are for the Cisco and they are too loose for Generic. I can use them but not the handiest thing in the world. Thanks

 

[speedemon]

You just have to adjust any carto-atty you get it will work take volts down till error does away.I got some of the new dual coil cartos fond you can't crank those real high they have 2 1.5 coils but i can take them up to 4.1 or 4.2? don't need them to go higher!

 

[Christopherdav1d]

Some people were talking about the E2 error when they try to crank it up. It appears that the provari senses what volt u can safely go up to by the ohm of the atty. For instance, with my HV atty I can go to 6V. With one of my joye attys I can only go up to 5.6, another I can go to 5.8. So it seems like the provari judges a safe voltage by the ohms. Like boge cartos I can go to 6v....every atty and carto are different depending on the ohms

 

[Stonemull]

S So it seems like the provari judges a safe voltage by the ohms. Like boge cartos I can go to 6v....every atty and carto are different depending on the ohms

It doesn't judge anything ... it simply detects an over current. Based on the fact its a different current for different resistances, its likely to be detected in the converter itself so it ends up as various output currents. Its not protecting the atty .. its protecting the switching mosfet and output components. Since the atty is earthed, it would need high side current detection on the atty .. requires a more complex analog design than a simple low side current sensing resistor on the switching FET.

 

[Tasteles]

I don't like the fact I can put a standard Joye 510 in and I can't crank it up past 4.4v without getting E2. I get the best satisfaction with a 1.5 Cisco 306 and an 18650 batt in my GGTS. Much better flavor and hit. Everytime I crank this thing up I get the E2. I didn't with a Joye HV but the atty burned out in 3 days. Still using my first Cisco in the GGTS and still stronger than anything else. Been about a month now.

I run a standard joy atty at 4.6 volts. About once or twice a week I have to clean my atty and do a dry burn to stop E2 errors. I have noticed that after a few days of heavy vaping that the ohms drop a little on the atty and then it will get E2 when the atty gets a little dry. I then rinse it out with as hot a water as I can stand from the sink, and dry burn it to clean the build up off the atty's coils. My ohms return to where they should be, and it vapes fine at 4.6 volts again. Actually I can go as high as 5.3 volts on a freashly cleaned atty but I prefer 4.6v.

edit: I should add that I dry burn at a low voltage to keep from over stressing the atty's coils. If using the provari, dry burn at the lowest setting, 3.3 volts.

 

[saintj]

I have been saying since I first got my Provari .. it does not like LR attys, 1.6Ω will E2 on mine at 3.4 or 3.5V, once dirty and the resistance lowers, occasional E2 on 3.3V. This does not seem to meet the claims of 2.5A, but perhaps the current detection is detecting spikes or whatever. Its little better than an eGo with LR parts anyway. about 7W max.

Throw on a 2.6Ω atty or carto and its a different beast, 6.0V and its still chugging along .. 13.8W .. and seems to hold a higher current than that will trip on an LR atty.
I like 8W or so personally. So tend to use the 4.5V area with carto's.

Indeed. It clearly demonstrates on ProVape's charts that the ProVarie likes 2.2ohm atomizers.

"Is there a preferred atomizer to use with the ProVari? Yes, based on the chart below you can see that you have the most voltage and wattage choices using a 2.2ohm atomizer". http://www.provape.com/v/faq.htm

 

[Stonemull]

Indeed. It clearly demonstrates on ProVape's charts that the ProVarie likes 2.2ohm atomizers.

"Is there a preferred atomizer to use with the ProVari? Yes, based on the chart below you can see that you have the most voltage and wattage choices using a 2.2ohm atomizer". http://www.provape.com/v/faq.htm

Except that chart may as well be complete bollocks .. it shows way higher currents on the 2.2Ω than you can actually use. I was really annoyed when I based a purchase on that chart initially and also grabbed a pile of 2.2Ω bits n pieces, only to find that 4.5V or so was causing the E2 and once the atty was run in and was around the 2Ω or less mark I was down to eGo voltages again, 3.5V .. E2.
Now I use a minimum of 2.6Ω (new) and grab 3Ω stuff when I can find it. ProVape really should update that chart .. I don't know if it was generated with an old version of the ProVari but it may as well be written by fairy's for its actual resemblance to real life. I nearly sent mine back for warranty..
Try the upper values in that chart and you will see what I mean .. not even close.

EDIT: I have done some retesting with a thin magnet attached to the bottom of the IMR 18650 battery and the E2 error does not occur till much higher voltages now. Suspect I was getting a substantial voltage drop at the negative battery terminal, it was certainly warming enough to be felt in the fingers after a few seconds. If I was losing voltage at this point then the converter has to run at a higher current to maintain correct output voltage .. so this may explain E2 errors at higher watts..