Battery last longer with higher ohm the cartos and attys will also last longer not as much stress on the thicker coils they have.No need for lr with the vari.
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Battery last longer with higher ohm the cartos and attys will also last longer not as much stress on the thicker coils they have.No need for lr with the vari.
Oh, so true. My Provari is still pretty new, so I can't comment too much on that device, specifically. For a long time I was using LR stuff on my Darwin simply because it was what I had on hand, but it practically cut my battery life in half versus using SR.
I've been phasing out most of the LR gear from my collection for a while, now, only keeping a little bit for use on my fixed voltage mods. Those devices are pretty much the only ones that see LR attys/cartos anymore
I have run a couple of 1.5 ohm triple coils on my Provari and still gotten plenty of battery life (using the new batts), but there's very little room for adjustment this way. There's more room to fine-tune your hit with higher-resistance attys/cartos
I've been phasing out most of the LR gear from my collection for a while, now, only keeping a little bit for use on my fixed voltage mods. Those devices are pretty much the only ones that see LR attys/cartos anymore
I have run a couple of 1.5 ohm triple coils on my Provari and still gotten plenty of battery life (using the new batts), but there's very little room for adjustment this way. There's more room to fine-tune your hit with higher-resistance attys/cartos
I did, and also the threading - it "screams" again on opening and closing.
NOW: after little more than 1ml (with the new Battery loaded in the new Pila) ProVari started blinking, and (Cb) says 3,5V. Multimeter says 3,9V. After reinserting it says 3,6 and doesn't blink.
If I test the output (Set with Pu / Pd) Multimeter says exactly what ProVari is set to.
SO seems only "Cb" and "Ao" have problems.
Especialy blinking and later shut off
with a half full battery is PIA.What could I do?
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there are some units that need sending in for fixing... my new unit was bad; E8 all the time; some checking showed fresh batt reading .9 to 1.0 volt lower than actual.
Had to send it in... and turn around time is fast.
Send Provape an email; they told me to check a couple things ... then "send it in".
Had to send it in... and turn around time is fast.
Send Provape an email; they told me to check a couple things ... then "send it in".
I did, and also the threading - it "screams" again on opening and closing.
NOW: after little more than 1ml (with the new Battery loaded in the new Pila) ProVari started blinking, and (Cb) says 3,5V. Multimeter says 3,9V. After reinserting it says 3,6 and doesn't blink.
If I test the output (Set with Pu / Pd) Multimeter says exactly what ProVari is set to.
SO seems only "Cb" and "Ao" have problems.
Especialy blinking and later shut off
What could I do?
I did, and also the threading - it "screams" again on opening and closing.
NOW: after little more than 1ml (with the new Battery loaded in the new Pila) ProVari started blinking, and (Cb) says 3,5V. Multimeter says 3,9V. After reinserting it says 3,6 and doesn't blink.
If I test the output (Set with Pu / Pd) Multimeter says exactly what ProVari is set to.
SO seems only "Cb" and "Ao" have problems.
Especialy blinking and later shut off
What could I do?
The provari checks the battery under a several amp load, the multimeter does not, any losses due to the spring will add to the voltage drop. An older battery may well show a larger voltage drop under load than a newer one. The voltage detection cct is quite sensitive, cutoff at 3.2V monitored during peak current draw, at higher wattages this could well be 4 or 5A.
You don;t mention what type of battery it is or its age, if its a new IMR then I would be looking at the spring and clean the top battery pin. If its an old one, then try loading it with a 2A load (1.5Ω resistor) and measure it with your meter then.
In general I have found the provari Cb and Ao functions to both be quite accurate. within 0.1Ω and 0.1V.
I just love it when people spout their assumptions as the truth..
Wrong .. you want pictures ? , it ain't PWM according to my CRO. That likely makes it your standard run of the mill buck/boost .. probably a SEPAC, though not looked so I won't say it as fact.
Wow, someone needs to vape some more. Chill man, you can disagree with someone without being a .....
Let's not get into a battle over semantics - at least according to National Semi-any switching supply operates by PWM... technically Buck-Boost is PWM.
See page 2: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-556.pdf
Its not my understanding that the PRovari modulates the duty cycle at a constant peak. Unless you (or anyone else) has a trace to share, I'll try to sneak away tomorrow or sunday for an hr and stick it on my Fluke at a few voltages with a couple of different loads - It'll at least provide the peak voltage and duty cycle.
Should have done that a long time ago anyways....
See page 2: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-556.pdf
Its not my understanding that the PRovari modulates the duty cycle at a constant peak. Unless you (or anyone else) has a trace to share, I'll try to sneak away tomorrow or sunday for an hr and stick it on my Fluke at a few voltages with a couple of different loads - It'll at least provide the peak voltage and duty cycle.
Should have done that a long time ago anyways....
heh, sorry dalton, didn't mean to snap .. I made the mistake of assuming you found that info somewhere other than provape, I can't see how they can call the output PWM, actually they don't, they say it uses that technology.
I just double checked with my CRO and no PWM I know of will provide the output the provari does. It is however going to be varying a duty cycle to a switch mode reg internally, but its not PWM like what an ego or 510 battery or buzz pro does. It provides a pretty much DC voltage at any battery voltage with any load .. no sign of PWM whatsoever on the output.
Heres a pic at 3.3V into a 1.6Ω load, battery 4.2V ..
high battery voltage, low output voltage and high current will show any PWM for sure..
in contrast here is a PWM waveform from a 510N from memory .. egos and 510's look much the same.
I just double checked with my CRO and no PWM I know of will provide the output the provari does. It is however going to be varying a duty cycle to a switch mode reg internally, but its not PWM like what an ego or 510 battery or buzz pro does. It provides a pretty much DC voltage at any battery voltage with any load .. no sign of PWM whatsoever on the output.
Heres a pic at 3.3V into a 1.6Ω load, battery 4.2V ..
in contrast here is a PWM waveform from a 510N from memory .. egos and 510's look much the same.
LOL No problem Stone. THAT is the kinda data I find interesting! Thanks for showing it.
I don't have tools to check that kinda stuff. I'm just a poor guy. I know what the waveforms look like though. My assumption would be some form of low pass filter/capacitance + low pass filter/some other method to smooth out the waveform before being output to the atomizer connector.
I don't have tools to check that kinda stuff. I'm just a poor guy. I know what the waveforms look like though. My assumption would be some form of low pass filter/capacitance + low pass filter/some other method to smooth out the waveform before being output to the atomizer connector.
heh, sorry dalton, didn't mean to snap .. I made the mistake of assuming you found that info somewhere other than provape, I can't see how they can call the output PWM, actually they don't, they say it uses that technology.
I just double checked with my CRO and no PWM I know of will provide the output the provari does. It is however going to be varying a duty cycle to a switch mode reg internally, but its not PWM like what an ego or 510 battery or buzz pro does. It provides a pretty much DC voltage at any battery voltage with any load .. no sign of PWM whatsoever on the output.
Heres a pic at 3.3V into a 1.6Ω load, battery 4.2V ..
high battery voltage, low output voltage and high current will show any PWM for sure..
in contrast here is a PWM waveform from a 510N from memory .. egos and 510's look much the same.
Thank you! I've been hoping someone would do that for a year now.
Love my Provari, found a Pila 300P battery, put the extension cap ring on the regular end-cap and voila, made good use of an otherwise useless battery ;-)
I had looked into the Pila batteries before... Aren't they flat tops as opposed to button tops? I had the same idea using the ring with the original cap but wasn't sure about that.
flat topped, one magnet it is working fine...It is 1400 mah, will see how long it lasts, but I like the smaller set-up and he, around 6-7 hours would be is ok....
Hmmm...Not a fan of using magnets myself. In any case, once you have put it through its paces, I'd love to hear a comparison between the AW 18500 and the Pila 300P.
conductive epoxy did the trick, now it is permanent ;-)
I don't have the 18500 to compare it with, but will see how long it will last.
@Provape: idea for the new model: put an option in the menu to see how many drags one took ;-)
I don't have the 18500 to compare it with, but will see how long it will last.
@Provape: idea for the new model: put an option in the menu to see how many drags one took ;-)
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P300 still going strong, changed devices, kept track on how long though and got 5 hours and a 3 ml tank and battie meteres 3.7V, good enough already for me, loving my small Provari setup!!
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