ProVarinati Diner & Saloon and Beyond

[RadiusNick]

do you think i'll be able to change the 510 of the Radius by myself?(asking just in case)
i think i saw someone here that when trying to change the o-ring of the 510, accidentally took out the upper part of the 510, but managed to put it back in place by opening the whole top plate (something of the sort).
i wonder if it's still holding tightly in place.
and is the 510 of the Procyon the same as the Radius?

 

[Hobbs]

I'm curious to see the responses of those who chime in Nick. Not sure what you're talking about. Are you talking something about the center pin of the connector?

 

[Hobbs]

Two donkeys, a couple of jacka55es, and a vape. Saturdays are so random

 

[RadiusNick]

I'm curious to see the responses of those who chime in Nick. Not sure what you're talking about. Are you talking something about the center pin of the connector?

i'm talking about the part that makes connection with the 510 of the tank.(the golden part)
just being a bit over concerned, but i also seem to get some 510 in not such a great condition considered the devices being new.(i can even spot on one of them some rust being formed when using a magnifying glass)
but i also suspect the material in which they are made is softer and more fragile than the other mods i have and get scratched easily,
i noticed that when using a kfl where its 510 screw had a little dent made probably when trying to adjust it with a big screw driver,
while in my other mods(not provaris)the 510 stay smooth no matter what.

 

[RadiusNick]

 

[Hobbs]

510 refers to the thread size and has nothing to do with the center pin (the golden part in the center of the connector). That center pin (the golden part) on the Radius connector is the same whether set up for 510 threads or P3 threads.

Yes, that golden part MAY be a softer metal than the center pin of some other manufacturers mods, but if you've dented it while screwing on a tank, that was some hella force.

Discoloration of the center pin is normal. It isn't rust. You could clean the pin with alcohol from time to time I guess, but you likely will not remove all the discoloration and that's okay.

 

[coldgin96]

I changed the o ring in Jackie's Radius but would never attempt to change the pin unless Bill was no longer available and we had another inoperable Radius for parts. Then it wouldn't matter if I wrecked it because I had two that were inoperable anyway.

 

[Hobbs]

Okay, I see you posted a picture while I was responding ... and I don't see any show stoppers. I would suggest if removing the (silver colored) 510 adapter, remove the larger outer ring first before removing the smaller actual P3/510 threaded adapter in the middle.

 

[coldgin96]

Use metal polish with a cotton swab on that center pin. Apply for 30 seconds. When polish is dry (or when polish manufacturer recommends polishing) Use a clean cotton swab soaked in 99% IPA and wipe off polish for 30 seconds. Use a second clean cotton swab soaked with 99% IPA for another 30 seconds. You are doing this to insure pin is clean. Make sure pin is dry before using. I say 99% IPA because that is what was recommended. In lieu of 99%, 91% (higher % because it works better and dries faster) is fine. I always use a 3rd cotton swab soaked with IPA to insure threads are clean.

I use Brasso. Again, .

 

[coldgin96]

Eric Clapton: 461 Ocean Boulevard

 

[RadiusNick]

the 510 pin on the radius is made out of two parts,
the bottom one which i wouldn't dare touching,and the upper part which could get removed if some force is applied(like a mushroom shape).
i think it was MikeE3 that accidentally took the upper part out when lifting the 510 pin to make place for the new o-ring replacement,but because of the springiness of the pin he had to take the whole top plate out(or something like that)if i recall correctly.
i'll try to find it..

 

[RadiusNick]

Use metal polish with a cotton swab on that center pin. Apply for 30 seconds. When polish is dry (or when polish manufacturer recommends polishing) Use a clean cotton swab soaked in 99% IPA and wipe off polish for 30 seconds. Use a second clean cotton swab soaked with 99% IPA for another 30 seconds. You are doing this to insure pin is clean. Make sure pin is dry before using. I say 99% IPA because that is what was recommended. In lieu of 99%, 91% (higher % because it works better and dries faster) is fine. I always use a 3rd cotton swab soaked with IPA to insure threads are clean.

I use Brasso. Again, .

is a sliver polisher also good?
i'll try to get some brasso anyway since it works for you.

 

[Hobbs]

the 510 pin on the radius is made out of two parts,
the bottom one which i wouldn't dare touching,and the upper part which could get removed if some force is applied(like a mushroom shape).
i think it was MikeE3 that accidentally took the upper part out when lifting the 510 pin to make place for the new o-ring replacement,but because of the springiness of the pin he had to take the whole top plate out(or something like that)if i recall correctly.
i'll try to find it..

@Ca Ike

 

[RadiusNick]

ok found it,it was Ca lke
Little red O ring

 

[Katdarling]

shake shake shake

 

[coldgin96]

is a sliver polisher also good?
i'll try to get some brasso anyway since it works for you.

I would assume silver polish would work, I don't know. ProVape recommended metal polish. I had some Brasso from being on active duty so I got more of that when I ran out.

 

[Hobbs]

 

[Hobbs]

Talked myself ... twice ... out of a pristine, current production Billet Box at a blem price. Think it might still be available too. Just couldn't come up with any real world advantages over the 2 ProVari Radius' I have. Not for my lifestyle anyway. Little shorter than a Radius? ... yeah. Little more fiddly than a Radius? ... yeah (maybe not).

Weird thing is, if I had a (or two) Billet Box, I might not have a Radius or two LMAO. Prolly be happy with either one Billet Box or Radius. I chose Radius when I chose Radius. Stickin' with it. They're a good 'un too

 

[MikeE3]

The eraser on a #2 pencil works well for cleaning the post of the 510 connection. Use a new pencil so the eraser end is flat. Just the right size to fit 'in'. Just keep spinning it around until the pin shines again. The put a drop of alcohol in and swap it out with a tissue right away. No need for polish or special abrasive contact cleaner pens. I do this every couple weeks and my pins are 'Golden'.

 

[Hobbs]

The eraser on a #2 pencil works well for cleaning the post of the 510 connection. Use a new pencil so the eraser end is flat. Just the right size to fit 'in'. Just keep spinning it around until the pin is shines again. The put a drop of alcohol in and swap it out with a tissue right away. No need for polish or special abrasive contact cleaner pens. I do this every couple weeks and my pins are 'Golden'.

Mike, when I repaired electronics (20 years military), they told us not to use a pencil eraser to clean electrical contacts. Said it would leave a residue. Told use to use a "Ruby Red" eraser (or one other I forget the name) ... because they would not leave a thin residue like pencil eraser ... and to always clean after with alcohol. You're using alcohol in your process, so meh. Just thought I'd share an anecdote.