I've broken 3-4 quartz sleeves in a years time. One was an accident, the others were due to mishandling (shouldn't happen again). I've found that after some use and the juice has worked in, the quartz sleeves are easy to completely remove/install on a Kabuki. Easy peasy. If the quartz is squeaky clean and o-rings dry ... be very careful. But you guys already knew that HA !!!
I didn't like the Triton mini coils as much as my 1.8 ohm Nauti coils, they were OK in the Kabuki with the max airflow for my tastes. Also tried some Clapton coils, I think they were 1.8 ohm, maybe they were also made for the Triton mini, but I can't keep track of them allThread pitches... makes a lot of sense. Stupid blunder on Provape's part.
I remember quite awhile ago getting into it with Mike at HOH about the expensive quartz tanks, which I thought was just bling, verses pyrex. He argued that pyrex can't be built to the consistency he needed with his Oring design. Seems odd that polycarb would be more consistent than pyrex and as consistent as quartz. Have you tried the polycarb tubes? Aside from that, just it seems wrong to put a cheap plastic tank on a $100 tank made to the standards of the Kabuki. But for vapocalypse purposes I guess I should bottom feed that. And maybe get a steel tube just to be sure although I wouldn't want to have to go blind on the juice level.
So I watched a couple of Triton Mini reviews and it appears that Nautilus and Triton Mini coils are fully interchangeable back and forth between Triton and Nautilus, and then presumably the Kabuki? That would be very nice. Have you tried the 3 Triton mini coils in the Kabuki?
. But yeah, the Triton mini is a nice tank, I like it anyways...Using the polycarbonate tubing, the silicon Orings are too loose, at some point I ordered a bag of Orings just for the polycarbonate, they are tucked away, this was discussed in the Kabuki thread in the old ProVape forum. I could dig them out and get the dimensions if you are curious. We moved since all of this transpired and a lot of my stuff is still packed away from then. I kind of know where it is, and can find it if I need it, I've simplified my vape since the move, I only keep a handful of things at the ready, and swap them out from time to time, being mindful to not have too many devices running at any one time. I am already living in Vapocalypse mode.
Using a steel tube fits perfectly with the 18350 mode on a ProVari tube, the battery lasts about the same as the juice fill up. At least that was my experience at about 8 watts, so the battery level acted as a fuel gauge so to speak.
When I remove the glass from the top piece, I simply screw an old coil core into the chimney, then place the coil base onto a paper towel folded several times for cushion, gently grasp the glass at four points with my fingertips and push strait down. Never had an issue that way...
I lube the orings with eLiquid every time I replace the glass. I would never put a Kabuki together dry. That's a good thing to do with any exposed orings on any atty. I especially do that with my Royal Hunter Mini drippers because the tolerance is a little too tight, even lubed. To the point where I can't spin the tank cap to change air flow, I have to pull it off and reinsert it the way I want (with some more than others, I have 4).
I might have misspoke about the Kabuki tightness and fitment. It's not so tight I can;t remove it fairly easily, but it's tighter than most other tanks I've worked with and the quartz is really fragile and easy to crack. It's not just me, there were tons of complaints on the big Kabuki thread, which lead me to originally think it was not designed well in that respect. But Zen did get a very good vacuum seal on the tank, which is why I don;t think there are many complaints about leaking with the quartz tubes. So I decided it was a design compromise that results in him selling a lot of replacement tubes
EXCELLENT !!! ... and sounds about right. Might give a metal sleeve a try, just been a little leery. Lately I seem to be running more in 18350 mode ... with the tubes anyway.
Very similar to what I do too. Never broke quartz with this method. Never had to create chimney length with an old coil though.
That oring size might be good to know. I assume you sourced them elsewhere, not from HOH? Good idea on removing the top cap.I didn't like the Triton mini coils as much as my 1.8 ohm Nauti coils, they were OK in the Kabuki with the max airflow for my tastes. Also tried some Clapton coils, I think they were 1.8 ohm, maybe they were also made for the Triton mini, but I can't keep track of them all
Using the polycarbonate tubing, the silicon Orings are too loose, at some point I ordered a bag of Orings just for the polycarbonate, they are tucked away, this was discussed in the Kabuki thread in the old ProVape forum. I could dig them out and get the dimensions if you are curious. We moved since all of this transpired and a lot of my stuff is still packed away from then. I kind of know where it is, and can find it if I need it, I've simplified my vape since the move, I only keep a handful of things at the ready, and swap them out from time to time, being mindful to not have too many devices running at any one time. I am already living in Vapocalypse mode.
Using a steel tube fits perfectly with the 18350 mode on a ProVari tube, the battery lasts about the same as the juice fill up. At least that was my experience at about 8 watts, so the battery level acted as a fuel gauge so to speak.
I have no trouble getting mine apart, (though I have heard this issue exists) I simply dropped it. It was early morning, what can I say. I did the hard part, and goofed during the rest. LOL, this isn't uncommon on my part. Since the polycarb's been fine and I don't imagine (oh except that I usually fill all my tanks now and replace any needed batteries and etc. before bed, now) it wouldn't happen again, sometime. My hands weren't even slippery with e-juice.
Had I broken it using an "approved" method, I think I probably would have been happier.....
Anna
Had I broken it using an "approved" method, I think I probably would have been happier....
.Anna
Ha, the label on the bag faded
From my notes: 9/16X11/16X1/16 = stock Kabuki ring
5/8X1/2X1/16= polycarbonate ring
Measurements are od X I'd X dia of ring material
Material is Buna-N 70A
Purchased from oringsandmore.com
If you note the differences in the two, one could order other sizes and wall thicknesses to experiment, they aren't that expensive.
Good luck.
From my notes: 9/16X11/16X1/16 = stock Kabuki ring
5/8X1/2X1/16= polycarbonate ring
Measurements are od X I'd X dia of ring material
Material is Buna-N 70A
Purchased from oringsandmore.com
If you note the differences in the two, one could order other sizes and wall thicknesses to experiment, they aren't that expensive.
Good luck.
The 1.8 Nautilus coil is MY coil. Didn't care for the Triton mini or any of the Triton mini coils ... not over the 1.8 Nautilus coil anyway. And the Kabuki is the shizzle for running the 1.8 Nautilus. Love it ... Love.It.
That said, I've found Billet Box more fully realizes the 1.8 Nautilus coil potential. The coil bottom with air inlets, sits wide open to the air in the Billet Box and the BB has those massive air slots in the side. The density and volume of vape is greater than with even a wide open Kabuki ... and maybe at lower wattage. Love my ProVari and Kabuki setups ... love my BB with Nautilus bridge. I'm set ... but also leaning lately to a Doggystyle RTA on a ProVari too ... just because I need a backup RTA I'm happy with.
Since I vape non-flavored only, can't compare Kabuki flavor to BB flavor. I will say coils last me a very long time in both. No longer or shorter in one than the other I don't think ... but need more time to consider
That said, I've found Billet Box more fully realizes the 1.8 Nautilus coil potential. The coil bottom with air inlets, sits wide open to the air in the Billet Box and the BB has those massive air slots in the side. The density and volume of vape is greater than with even a wide open Kabuki ... and maybe at lower wattage. Love my ProVari and Kabuki setups ... love my BB with Nautilus bridge. I'm set ... but also leaning lately to a Doggystyle RTA on a ProVari too ... just because I need a backup RTA I'm happy with.
Since I vape non-flavored only, can't compare Kabuki flavor to BB flavor. I will say coils last me a very long time in both. No longer or shorter in one than the other I don't think ... but need more time to consider
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Dokken: Tooth And Nail
I have to disagree with people here. I have personally found the kabuki quartz to be more solid and less resistant to breaks. .
I am the second owner of my kabuki, the previous owner had it a couple years without once replacing the glass, and I've owned it around 9 months and never replaced the glass.. it's never needed it and I HAVE dropped it before. .
It's literally the best glass ever.. have to say I'm very happy with it.
Now off to sing lullabies to my mod and tanks.. hahaha ( I think Anna will get this because of a smart ... comment she once made about people who don't break stuff!)
I am the second owner of my kabuki, the previous owner had it a couple years without once replacing the glass, and I've owned it around 9 months and never replaced the glass.. it's never needed it and I HAVE dropped it before. .
It's literally the best glass ever.. have to say I'm very happy with it.
Now off to sing lullabies to my mod and tanks.. hahaha ( I think Anna will get this because of a smart ... comment she once made about people who don't break stuff!)
You have one sample of Kabuki and one sample of quartz tube. Your experience is not necessarily representative or typical.
If you spend some time in the Kabuki thread, you will find NUMEROUS complaints about broken tubes and all the *complaints* involved the glass breaking while doing routine refills or cleaning. People don't complain about broken tanks after a drop- that's expected behavior. As best I could determine, despite Zen's best efforts and attention to detail, there are some combinations that are slightly too tight. And many of the complainers were going through multiple tubes so I suspect it wasn't the glass, but the metal part(s).
If you lube both the orings and the glass where it slides over the orings with some vg it's not a problem in the least..
I'd definitely call it user error and not the fault of the glass if people are busting it taking it on and off..
That was discussed frequently and well understood in the thread, people that were lubing were breaking glass.
ETA: There is a reason Zen took the extraordinary step to make a "crappy" polycarb tube and I'm sure it killed him to do it. He doesn't often cheapen a product.
Well you can't yank them around or apply unreal amounts of pressure, they have to be eased off..
It's still not a design flaw in my book.
Perhaps none of them ever owned a steam turbine rba - if they ever dealt with those they'd never have a problem with a kabuki
I'd like to add that in the first year, I broke at least two and Jackie just said she broke one before we figured out how to be careful. "Slow An' Easy" (Whitesnake)Jackie and I use Kabuki's everyday. It's been 2 years since either one of have broke the glass.
This works better than a pencil eraser and does fit a 510 perfectly. You can get them at art supply shops.I get that drop of condensate too, but other than that I've never had any leakage through the airhole, and that is the only tank I've ever used that did not piss me off over leaks, including the Nautilus. And my 510 pin at least sometimes gets wet with any other atty I use, dripper or tank. What tank are you using that never, ever leaks, anywhere?
The P3 is also a better electrical connection because it eliminates the pin (usually a screw) between the factory coil and the positive pin (the coil making direct contact with the positive pin). The fewer mechanicl links in the electrical chain, the lower the internal device resistance. I think all that's worth a drop of condsate on the pin. Trade-offs, but well worth it for me.
What I really like about the P3 connector is that you can remove the 510 adapter and more easily clean out the connector, and then soak the adapter parts in alcohol and otherwise clean them up. I like to use a rubber eraser to clean the contact pin and other electrical pins but a No 2 standard eraser barely fits in a 510 hole, and the erasers are barely tall enough, such that after a couple of cleanings I have to throw the pencil away and start with a new one. And at best I can barely twirl it, where in the P3 connector I can scrub it more vigorously. Because of that my P3 connectors are better maintained.
I also liked the fact that when Provape was in business, a galled 510 adapter could be easily replaced. But now it's a fairly expensive stockpile item
"I still got the Subtank with teeth marks in it from the huge pliers that were required to break the locked up attie and ring set. "
That's why you're supposed to use some cloth or a rubber jar opener under the plier jaws
I've never tried to lift the beauty ring because all that does is put that tiny gap below the beauty ring, rather than above it. I'll be sure never to that now! I can't visualize why that would lock it all together but I'll take your word for it.
I like the Kabuki a lot better than the Nautilus, better flavor and a little better airflow. I've never tried the 0.7 BVC coils but have a pack in the mail. I think that will give even better airflow?
I normally vape a dripper at about 30W, but that can't be done on my P2.5 or P3, and if I do that on my Radius I go through batteries too quickly to be practical. So I need something like the Kabuki (a Tootle rig) to make the P2.5 work, and I need to run 10W max to make the Radius work at all, except at home when I can rotate to a spare.
My favorite dripper, for flavor, are my Royal Hunter Minis. They are similar to Derringers but better than the clone I own. The Kabuki, at about 10W, actually delivers slightly more flavor than the RH at 20W (configured as double simple 27ga, 3mm ID, 7/8 wraps, dual coil). Although the Kabuki doesn't have as much airflow as I would like, at least with the 1.8R coils I've used (that measure out at 2.0-2.2R). Considering that the RH is the most flavorful dripper I've yet used, I'm impressed.
If I could find a rebuildable tank that is as leak-proof as the Kabuki, with as much flavor at about 10W, and more airflow I would buy it. But I really don't want to spend $500 chasing that.
My two big issues with the Kabuki: factory coils. I like to minimize my consumable cost, and deeming is a big issue, although that may be put off for 4 years. The other issue is that while the quartz glass tubes are very nice, they are 10 bucks apiece and I broke mine after only about 3 coils. After reading all the other complaints in the big Kabuki thread I started to think of the tubes as a very expensive consumable, along with the coils. Kind of like buy a tube with every pack of coils
Mine cracked at the top of the tube and I then decided not to separate the atty top from the tube unless I have to, and I'll see if the tubes last longer that way. And there is probably no compelling reason to separate the tube for routine cleaning.
Anyway, that's my Kabuki/P3 story. If you've found something otherwise comparable I'd like to know about, RTA or not.
I've got 4 Kabuki's running for a couple of years now. Never a broken glass. I do remember a number of folks in the old Kabuki thread complaining about the fragility of the glass. Perhaps they were heavy handed?
BTW, I sometimes use Triton Mini 1.2Ω coils in my Kabukis. They certainly go through juice quicker, but the flavor is comparable and sometimes better (juice dependent) than the BVC coils.
BTW, I sometimes use Triton Mini 1.2Ω coils in my Kabukis. They certainly go through juice quicker, but the flavor is comparable and sometimes better (juice dependent) than the BVC coils.
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